This morning, Schiaparelli opened Haute Couture Week in Paris with its Spring/Summer 2025 show.

Look 6
Called “Icarus,” the collection had plenty of mythological references and reverence for fashion’s rich past, while hinting at the delicate price of chasing perfection.
Daniel Roseberry, the Maison’s creative director, delivered a collection that married heritage with bold experimentation, resulting in a show that felt simultaneously timeless and fresh.
The collection was inspired by vintage ribbons from the 1920s and 1930s, discovered in a Lyon antique shop, and their spectrum of colours—saffrons, butters, and faded greens—anchored the palette. “I wanted to create something that feels new because it’s old,” Roseberry explained in his notes. This guiding philosophy translated into a collection that revelled in baroque detail, dramatic silhouettes, and exquisite craftsmanship, rejecting minimalism’s stranglehold on modern fashion.
Highlights from the Show
Look 6 (pictured at the top of this article) was an ode to duality and texture. Butter duchess satin ribbons were deconstructed into a bustier dress, contrasted sharply with black velvet strips. The interplay between softness and edge felt quintessentially Schiaparelli, underscored by a bold black velvet flower bracelet and elegant sandals that echoed the dress’s asymmetry.

Look 8
Look 8 showcased Roseberry’s technical prowess. A ruffled bustier jumpsuit, cut from a single piece of butter satin neoprene, was pure architectural mastery. The silhouette struck a balance between fluidity and sculpture, the kind of high-wire act that only haute couture can accomplish.

Look 12
Look 12 turned the runway into a theatrical stage. This bustier dress, adorned with petal-shaped embroidery in silk, cotton, and enamel, cascaded with beaded fringes that celebrated the Maison’s emblematic codes. A dramatic butter satin duchess train followed in its wake, reminding the audience of couture’s commitment to drama and grandeur.

Look 29
Look 29 brought a breath of delicate whimsy. A woven pistachio organza dress, embroidered with crystal water droplets and finished with cascading fringes, appeared weightless yet intricate. The accompanying fringe stole draped over the shoulders added an ethereal movement, while mismatched earrings—crafted from vintage elements and brass feathers—lent a quirky, eclectic touch.

Look 31
Finally, Look 31 closed the narrative with a flourish. A strapless corset dress in nude mesh, its exaggerated hips a nod to the Maison’s historic silhouettes, was layered with draped pearl grey duchesse satin. Embroidered flowers and a dramatic bow heightened the look’s romanticism, encapsulating the Maison’s ability to blend softness and boldness effortlessly.
This collection was as much a study in technique as it was a love letter to fashion’s golden ages. Schiaparelli’s ateliers pushed boundaries, from crafting sharp hip blades in fragile silk georgette to experimenting with glycerin-treated feathers for a luxurious weight. The homage to Elsa Schiaparelli was evident, with signature motifs—the keyhole, dove, and anatomical elements—reinterpreted with modern aplomb.
Roseberry’s narrative also examined the philosophical underpinnings of haute couture. “Can’t the new also be worked, be baroque, be extravagant?” he asked, challenging fashion’s relentless drive toward stark minimalism. This season, he answered his own question with a collection that demanded the viewer’s attention at every turn, each look a testament to the painstaking pursuit of artistry.
Through his collection, Roseberry reminded us that haute couture is not about convenience or simplicity but about transcending the ordinary. It is a labour of love and duty, a dialogue between past and future, imagination and discipline.
After watching the show, one couldn’t help but feel that the Maison Schiaparelli had indeed touched greatness – and, like Icarus, dared to soar ever higher.