Last week I had the pleasure to celebrate with Fendi, “MATRICE”, Fendi’s first exhibition of contemporary art by the legendary Italian artist Giuseppe Penone, which was held at Palazzo della Civilta Italiana, Fendi’s Headquarters.
The exhibition is named after one of Giuseppe Penone’s most spectacular works, Matrice (2015), a 30-metre-long sculpture in which the trunk of a fir tree has been carved out following one of its growth rings, thus bringing to the surface the past of the tree and its transformation in time. A bronze mould has been cast in wood, apparently freezing nature’s flow of life. Like many of Penone’s artworks, Matrice reveals the artist’s interest in the relationship between time and nature, and metaphorically between nature, humankind, and transience.
During this occasion, I met Pietro Beccari, Fendi CEO, and had a chat about this collaboration.
How did this collaboration come to life, and why did you choose the artist Giuseppe Penone?
The whole concept originated from the idea that Fendi would donate a major piece of art to the city of Rome, which would be installed in front of our store. In order to ensure that the city would accept this idea, there was a commission that Fendi participated in, together with the Minister of Culture, and the Mayor of Rome, to choose which artist would be the chosen one. We gave a list of artists’ names, with Giuseppe Penone being preferred, but we had to let the independent jury choose. They came to the decision of Penone, who is an artist I have loved and respected forever, so I believe the city is receiving a fantastic gift. Subsequently, we decided to have an exhibition in anticipation of the May installation of the piece of art. In preparation, I went to meet with Penone at his home, and it turned out that we both came from the same small village in Italy, so we spoke the same language in a way, and have a similar sensibility.
Is this collaboration part of your social responsibility?
Yes definitely, and we have done a lot for the city of Rome. Right now, we are sitting in Palazzo della Civilta Italiana, a building which was forgotten and abandoned for 72 years, until Fendi took it over and restored it, turning it into offices, whilst also allowing the ground floor of the building to be left open to the public to house exhibitions celebrating Italian craftsmanship. We restored the Trevi fountains last year, and also Palazzo Fendi, whose ultra-modern design includes details like a cylindrical glass elevator, undulating travertine, and has the opening of the Japanese izakaya-style restaurant Zuma on the rooftop. So, this piece of art is further proof of our dedication to social responsibility and the city, and we hope to associate our name with the city of Rome for years to come.
As the luxury market has become massified, how do you maintain desirability of the brand?
In terms of retail, we have opened our stores in exclusive locations, and we ensure that the product is not massified, so there is a sense of luxury given in the type of artisanal content in the product. Our message is that Fendi is not for everyone, it is for a sophisticated cliental, and we try to achieve this image through the stores, the product, and the operational communications which are beyond the simple pushing of products. Our customer wants to hear nice stories, to share a certain set of values with the brand, and I believe that this will give an appeal to the whole brand, which will have a shadow effect on the products.
What are the challenges that you face today as a luxury brand?
The challenges are the market which is not growing in the way that it was in the past, together with the competition being much fiercer. The lucky ones are the customers, as there is more choice, and more creativity than years before. The product is evolving, and is far more appealing and diverse, giving the customer more choice and better prices. So, our challenge is to be up to speed, as what is good today may not be good tomorrow, and to ride the wave you must always be on the edge of innovations.
What are your near and far objectives for Fendi?
We are very happy with what we have done in the past with Fendi, and in the last five years we came to become one of the most desirable brands in the luxury industry. I believe that Fendi can be more attractive and even bigger in terms of size, so my dream is to keep the market share for competition, and the sophisticated image for the sophisticated customer, ultra-luxury is the way we want to go.
Speaking of desirability, today what is the recipe to create an object of desire?
Luxury for me is a matter of passion and emotion that you can give in a product to a customer. We provide items that people don’t need to live, as you can live without luxury, but they are items that will allow the customer to live better, and will give a sense of satisfaction and an emotion. Luxury today is when you touch a fur, or a product that is handmade and crafted, with an emotion behind it.
What are the projections for Fendi in 2017, and what is in the pipeline for the brand?
Globally we opened in new countries last year, such as Australia, Canada, and Austria, and this year we have big openings in the US, starting with Dallas, then San Francisco, and Soho. Together with these openings, we have also been innovating our stores, and have plans for the store in Dubai Mall. We also just renovated the store in Jeddah, as although the market has slowed in Saudi Arabia, we still see the desirability and demand in the region. The Middle East is a key market for us, so although it may be slowing, we need to think of the long-term plan and the importance of the market to us, which is why we opened the Fendi childrenswear mono-brand store which has recently opened and is a new concept from our architect.
As couture week has just taken place, did you have a chance to see the collections?
Unfortunately I was very limited with time because of this launch. However, I of course saw the Chanel show and talked with Karl Lagerfeld to congratulate him, who was very happy and proud.
Can you describe your personal relationship with social media?
I am watching this phenomenon through my three daughters, but I am not a consumer myself. I have an anonymous Instagram account so that I can follow my daughters and other brands, and I check this every day, so I try to observe more than being a fanatic user myself. My daughters are teaching me new things all the time, as I don’t think my mind is quite formatted in this way of thinking!
What is your personal motto?
I tell myself that if I have everything under control, it is because I am not going fast enough, and I must accelerate.
Can you describe your personal style?
I am very authentic, and as you see me today is how I dress every day.
What is a fact that people don’t know about you?
I was a football player in the second division when I was younger.
What are your hobbies?
I am a good skier and I love trekking, so I can walk with my family for ten or fifteen hours at a time.
If there is one thing you could change within yourself, what would it be?
I would love to live more in the moment, and enjoy what I have done, rather than escaping to the future being afraid of keeping up.
Do you have any regrets?
Yes, probably that I didn’t become a football player!
How would you like this industry to remember you?
Someone with a vision, who brought to reality his ideas.
How would you sum up Fendi?
Unique, because it is combination between sublime craft, and a lot of fun, which makes us very special, as very few people are good at doing both.
As all roads lead to Rome, how would you describe the city?
Rome is a surprise every day, it has the most beautiful light in the world, and is an open-air museum.
By Lara Mansour Sawaya
