For two decades, CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel has brought together the worlds of high jewellery and fine art, renowned for its architectural forms, sculptural fluidity, and exquisite craftsmanship.
Founded by Taiwanese artist Cindy Chao, the Maison has redefined the concept of “art jewels,” creating rare, collectable pieces that blur the line between adornment and sculpture. Drawing inspiration from nature and brought to life through the intricate technique of wax sculpting, her creations are celebrated by collectors and museums worldwide for their emotional resonance and technical mastery. With a philosophy rooted in timeless artistry and a vision that transcends trends, Cindy Chao continues to shape the dialogue between jewellery and art on a global stage. As the brand marks its 20th anniversary, we sit down with the designer to reflect on her journey, creative evolution, and the values that continue to guide her work.
You recently celebrated the 20th anniversary of your brand. Looking back, what have been the most defining moments of your journey so far?
There are two pivotal events in my career that hold profound significance for me. The first was in 2010 when my second annual butterfly – the 2009 Royal Butterfly Brooch was inducted into the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC, the largest museum institute in the US. This marked an unprecedented milestone as it was the first of my pieces to be inducted into a museum, and it was also the first time the Smithsonian Museum collected a piece from a contemporary Asian jewellery artist. I vividly remember during the press event, a curator was asked by the media about the reasoning behind this acquisition. He replied that museums have a responsibility to preserve heritage for future generations and that they believed Cindy Chao’s work would come to represent 21st-century jewellery art.
His comment has ever since transformed my creative approach. I realized that true artists create with a visionary mindset, so I started looking at each piece in the “future tense” instead of just “here and now.”
Fast forward to 2021, when I was awarded the Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres (Knight in the Order of Arts and Letters) by the French Ministry of Culture. During the ceremony, I remember seeing the minister holding a nine-page speech draft, which was deeply moving as it recognized my efforts to bridge Eastern and Western cultures through art. This honor was especially meaningful to me, being acknowledged by France—a country that prides itself tremendously in the legacy and craftsmanship of jewellery art. Around that time, I saw media reports where many Western observers described CINDY CHAO as ushering in a “new era of Nouveau Art Nouveau” – an art movement used to describe the natural-inspired and craftsmanship-centric high jewellery that we’re creating in this moment in time. As a connector, a bridge for jewellery art inspires me to promote and foster artistic and cultural exchanges for generations to come.
How has CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel evolved over the past two decades—both in terms of design language and brand vision?
Time flies—twenty years have passed in the blink of an eye. I feel deeply grateful to have had the freedom to create on my own terms. At last year’s retrospective exhibition in Taipei, seeing my earlier creations, which were borrowed from collectors, was a very emotional moment for me. It was also the first time for me to see these pieces together in one room – memories rush back to me – all the challenges, the growing pains, and the evolution and fruitful results.
In the early years, my creations were defined by black and white tones—a reflection of my solitude. Over time, they grew vibrant and exuberant, infused with bold colours and intricate craftsmanship, mirroring my desire to be seen and to establish the brand. As I gained confidence, I began to challenge conventions, constantly reinventing myself and pushing boundaries in both form and technique. My focus shifted from proving myself to creating with purity and intention.
Participation in leading art fairs and milestone auction moments further strengthened my belief in this path. Today, my work feels lighter, more instinctive, like a feather. What remains after refining and distilling is the purest form of artistic expression.
While my style has evolved, the vision has remained the same: to create art jewels of enduring significance and to establish CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel as an international brand with a lasting legacy. Twenty years is just the beginning—we still have a long journey ahead.
You recently celebrated the 5th anniversary of your Shanghai Maison with a sculptural garden exhibition. Can you tell us about the inspiration behind that concept and what it symbolizes?
During the global pandemic, when we were creating the CINDY CHAO Shanghai Maison, I envisioned it as my own home, where jewellery, art, and architecture converge, where friends can come, have engaging conversations, and enjoy all the beauty in life.
To mark the Masion’s fifth anniversary, we partnered with ART021 Group, one of China’s leading contemporary art fairs, to curate five striking sculptures throughout the space – transforming the Maison into a sculptural garden. Placed alongside my own sculptural jewellery pieces, they create an engaging dialogue—bringing to life the brand’s essence: architectural structure, sculptural form, and organic energy.
I have always loved sculptures: I collect them, and I create them myself. My father was a sculptor, and I grew up watching him work. Sometimes, he would give me a piece of clay and an assignment—this is how I came to have the hands of a sculptor. Through the idea of a sculpture garden, the Maison becomes a living space where contemporary art, design, and craftsmanship come together. It’s where East meets West, tradition meets innovation, and everything flows in harmony.
What’s the biggest challenge you face today, and how do you overcome it?
In 2023, for Sotheby’s 50th anniversary, I was honored to be named one of the leading Asian artists. I remember the chairwoman asking me in an interview: “Was it easy to be a young Asian female artist when you first started?” I looked at her and said, “Absolutely not.”
For centuries, the high jewellery industry has been dominated by Western brands, led by European craftsmanship—and yes, by men.
When I first started, I knew only the most experienced craftsmen could bring my vision to life. So I travelled to Europe carrying a suitcase full of wax sculptures, seeking out master artisans. At first, as a stranger from Asia, no one would speak to me. But I didn’t need words to understand their thoughts—I saw the doubt and skepticism in their eyes.
But I refused to give up. When they said “no,” I returned again and again. When they declared it “impossible,” I sculpted the wax before them, showing that it was possible in my hands.
Through my wax sculptures, they began to understand my artistic vision and embraced the challenge of working with me. Over time, doubt transformed into trust. Today, those very artisans are my closest partners. Together, we have pushed the boundaries of titanium craftsmanship, mastering the art of moulding this challenging metal into soft, organic curves.
The lesson I have learned is simple: Most people only believe after seeing. For a rare few dreamers, they believe, and reality follows. Faith is the first step to shaping the future.
Your creations sit at the intersection of jewellery and sculpture. Why do you believe these worlds are so intimately connected?
When we stand before a powerful work of art, we experience a deep aesthetic and emotional response. Jewellery, as an art form, is the same – it has always been a vessel for originality and creativity. It can inspire the same feelings, perhaps even more so, given that a piece of jewellery is even more personal and closer to our lives and hearts.
I have always approached jewellery creation through the concept of miniature architecture and sculpture. From a young age, my grandfather and father taught me about three-dimensional forms and the importance of observing life with my eyes and heart. This foundation allows you to see in my work a sculptural unity, where each piece resembles a small sculpture but also contains complex architectural engineering within. In my creations, jewellery transcends its traditional function as an accessory and becomes a collectable work of art.
Your pieces often draw from nature. What aspects of the natural world continue to inspire you most, and how do they translate into your designs?
Nature is the most beautiful and inspiring force in the world. She is ever-changing, appearing in countless forms and hues. No two leaves, no two landscapes are ever alike, and she never pauses for anyone. This constant transformation fascinates me. When I work, I don’t just replicate what I see; I try to capture an instant in time while still suggesting movement- a butterfly caught mid-flight, a frosted leaf tipped with green to hint at the coming spring, an airy bow freshly tied… Each piece holds a story suspended in motion. I want to preserve those ephemeral scenes and emotions, celebrating nature’s beauty in a way that lasts.
Could you walk us through your creative process? How does an idea evolve into a Cindy Chao masterpiece?
My creative process is somewhat different from the conventional approach. While contemporary jewellery design mostly begins with sketching, making jewellery from 2D to 3D, I start each of my creations with wax sculpting- an approach to create from a three-dimensional perspective.
The wax sculpting process is an ancient technique that was once widespread in Europe during the 18th to 19th centuries. In my creative process, inspiration first takes shape in my mind, and then I envision the form of the piece. From there, I picked up the tools and started sculpting, shaping it into a 1-to-1 ratio wax sculpture of the structure I had envisioned. Every aspect of the piece, including the spatial perception, three-dimensional layers, curvature, undulation, and even the positioning of each gemstone, is already planned and created during this initial wax sculpting phase.
As my pieces are highly three-dimensional and structural, showing only hand-drawn sketches would make it difficult for my craftsmen to grasp the depth and spatial aspects I intend. Wax sculpting allows me to maintain the three-dimensional nature of my vision, making sure that there’s nothing lost in translation.
When I introduced the idea of turning 3D sculptures into 3D jewellery pieces two decades ago, European craftsmen saw it as groundbreaking because no one was doing it. Over the past twenty years, I have remained committed to using wax sculpting techniques, continually honing my skills. During this time, I have worked closely with my craftsmanship team in Europe to innovate with the materials we use. For example, incorporating titanium, one of the hardest metals in the world, into my sculptural artworks represents another level of innovation in jewellery crafting. I believe what sets CINDY CHAO apart from other brands is this innovative approach, bringing new spectacles to the industry over the past 20 years.
When preparing for a new creation, how do you enter a creative mindset? Do you have specific rituals or environments that help spark inspiration?
Wax sculpting feels a lot like meditation to me — it demands complete focus yet brings the joy of being in a state of flow. In those moments, creativity moves freely, taking shape in the wax as I work.
While I try to set a schedule and reserve time for wax sculpting, I never “force” myself into a creative state of mind. Inspirations, I believe, be an accumulation of one’s life experience – it could be everyday encounters with nature, strolling through a park, hiking a trail, or even noticing a single leaf.
I remember my Aquatic Collection was born from my very first snorkeling trip. The vibrant, colorful underwater world was an abundant source of inspiration, and I found myself captivated by its beauty. Coral branches, seashell curves…they became recurring motifs in the designs, and the collection has since become one of my signatures.
A scene or detail will spark an idea, and I start shaping it three-dimensionally in my mind. When that inspiration takes hold, I can’t wait to get to my wax table! If travel takes me too far or abroad, I would try my best to sketch out colors and thoughts in my notebook. But truly, the flow comes when I’m working on the wax – it is my sanctuary, and my favorite time in the past 20 years.
What does your current vision for the Cindy Chao brand look like—and how do you see it growing or evolving in the years to come?
We are twenty years young. There are many things we still need to learn, but I also think that CINDY CHAO has now reached a kind of “maturity.” The qualities I’ve always pursued (architectural, sculptural, and organic) are now deeply embedded in not only art jewellery creations but everything we do. It’s the result of twenty years of staying true to my artistic vision, and over time, that vision has become the brand’s signature.
Looking ahead, this will always be the foundation I build on. As an artist, my greatest wish is simply to keep creating and enjoying these moments. I always say to my team, “There is good, better, and the best.” Of course, in terms of being a company, the team is always growing, and there is still so much we can learn. Creatively and aesthetically, I only compete with myself, constantly pushing to go further, to be better than I was before. That evolution is something I want everything CINDY CHAO to reflect.
What would you like to achieve in the next 20 years of Cindy Chao The Art Jewel?
For the past 20 years, I have been charging forward without reservation. But I have always had a wish: to establish CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel as the first Asian jewellery brand to be recognized globally, akin to many esteemed Western jewellery maisons.
It takes time to build a shift in awareness, in point of view, and in culture, and it is even more difficult and time-consuming to sustain that shift. So, in the next 20 years, we will continue to lay a solid foundation for this.
Apart from creation, I also aim to continue sharing and transmitting jewellery craftsmanship. Last year, I was honored to be invited to teach wax sculpting at the Haute École de Joaillerie in Paris. Teaching the young talents was not only fulfilling but also inspiring for me. Through active collaboration with art institutions worldwide, I aspire to provide a platform for artistic growth and resources to aspiring art students, thereby nurturing emerging talents in the realm of high jewellery.
We’re seeing increasing interest in your work from the Middle East. How do you see your brand resonating with collectors and clients in this region?
Being at the epicentre of the world and so rich in culture, the Middle Eastern collectors have a truly international and cross-cultural taste in terms of aesthetics. They are also discerning and highly knowledgeable, with a keen eye for exceptional craftsmanship and creativity.
It was a pleasant surprise for me to learn how Middle Eastern collectors are actually bold and expressive with colors and forms – and this is where CINDY CHAO really resonates with the region. They deeply appreciate both the artistry and the rarity of our work and are so willing to take the time to understand the creative stories behind each piece. In recent years, we’ve built a growing base of collectors in the region, and we’re confident that this exploration will lead to even more wondrous journeys.
Can you share what’s next for the brand—any upcoming projects, exhibitions, or global expansions we should look forward to in 2025?
When we celebrated the brand’s 20th anniversary, our exhibitions and events were all about “looking back”—reflecting on two decades of continuous evolution. Now, looking ahead to the next 20 years, I’m working on a brand-new creative series that will be completely different from anything I’ve done before. I hope to launch it in the second half of the year and bring collectors something truly fresh and unexpected.
We visit the Middle Eastern market every two months, bringing our latest creations directly to collectors. Our goal is to continue cultivating this market, and maybe one day down the road, a CINDY CHAO Maison will leave a footprint in the region.
