Hermès has unveiled a new high jewellery collection for 2022 marking the House’s 7th collection.
Les jeux de lombre Boucles doreilles Lumieres brutes © Elizaveta Porodina
“Les jeux de l’ombre” is a collection of 53 pieces designed by Pierre Hardy, Creative Director of Hermès jewellery.
The designer explored the contrast between shadow and light and the movement between the two. Coloured stones are juxtaposed with a black shadow that surrounds them beyond their edges, protecting them and broadening their radiance.
The Lueurs du jour rings, earrings, and necklace, this shadow takes the material form of jade, worked by hand to give it a satin finish. On the Ombres mobiles pieces, the shadow is titanium, set like a precious metal into the rose gold.
As the light travels through this collection, the jewellery pieces appear to break free from their shadow and radiate an intense and colourful glow, enhanced by their gemstones in dégradé or monochrome shades as on the Miroir d’ombre necklace, which divides into two.
On the Chaînes d’ombre necklace, the juxtaposition of flat-cut white diamonds shadowed by dégradés of black spinels and blue sapphires gives the chaîne d’ancre chain link its volume. A unique approach to pavé setting brings the form to life while respecting the design.
Gracefully flexing across the skin, this necklace required almost 2,000 hours of meticulous craftsmanship, including 700 hours of gem-setting to individually and carefully position each stone.
The Couleurs du jour necklace, a triptych that opens and closes, concealing its treasures or exposing them to the light, makes use of particularly ingenious jewellery mechanisms.
Lastly, there is a radiant ode to shades of colour… Rough, uncut stones: yellow diamonds, brown diamonds, spessartite garnets, tsavorite garnets, and tourmalines chosen for their intensity, give rise to Lumières brutes, a series of unique rings and earrings. By filtering the light, these stones produce variations of a single shade that take us back to their original splendour, as treasures of the earth.