Nadine Kanso founded her jewellery brand in Dubai in 2006. Its instantly recognisable designs and motifs have allowed it to be one of the most sought-after homegrown brands in the region.
Since the beginning, Kanso, a Lebanese native, has been inspired by her culture, specifically the history of calligraphy and its meanings. By calligraphic artistry and intricate design, the brand curates unforgettable experiences through its pieces, with each piece having a story or meaning behind it which allows the wearer to express their own individuality.
This Fall, Bil Arabi debuted the NAJLAA collection, a new line inspired by the captivating allure of Arabic poetry. Drawing on the rich literary tradition where the word “Najlaa” is often used to describe a woman with wide, expressive eyes, symbolising beauty and mystique. The collection features pieces with striking precious stones that take them to new levels. Here we find out more about the NAJLAA collection and Kanso’s vision for the brand.
Tell us about the vision and direction for your brand Bil Arabi, this year.
Bil Arabi is all about deepening our connection to Arabic heritage while embracing modern influences. This year, we continue to celebrate Arabic identity through our jewellery, infusing each piece with meaning and story. With our latest collection, NAJLAA, we are staying true to our roots while exploring new and interesting design directions that will speak to both our regional and international audiences.
You recently launched the NAJLAA collection – tell us about this collection and how it fits with your existing pieces.
NAJLAA is a collection that holds deep personal meaning for me, as it draws inspiration from Arabic poetry. “Najlaa” is often used to describe a woman with wide, expressive eyes, and this imagery was central to the design process. This also beautifully connects to my beloved grandmother Najlaa, whose spirit is truly felt in the essence of this collection.
As a sub-collection of our main Ya Ein line, NAJLAA continues to explore the eye symbol, a signature motif of Bil Arabi. What sets NAJLAA apart is its focus on intricate detailing and the use of a wider array of precious stones, reflecting the richness of Arabic poetry. We’ve also introduced brushed gold to this collection to add a layer of complexity that blends timeless elegance with modern design.
There are some beautiful pieces in the collection – tell us about some of the stones and motifs used.
Each stone in the NAJLAA collection was carefully selected to capture the essence of beauty and mystique found in Arabic poetry. We’ve used precious gems such as emeralds, sapphires, blue topaz, tsavorite, and pearls to create a rich, layered design. The eye motif, central to the collection, draws on its symbolic association with protection, a concept deeply rooted in Middle Eastern culture. Each gemstone carries its own unique meaning: emeralds symbolise wisdom, blue topaz evokes clarity and calm, pearls represent elegance, and the vibrant tsavorite exudes strength and vitality. Together, these elements weave a narrative not only of beauty but also of resilience and grace.
You have always been inspired by Arabic calligraphy – is this something that continues to inspire you, and how do you continue to find new and original ideas?
Calligraphy continues to be a profound source of inspiration for me, but I also look beyond it to explore broader aspects of our culture such as poetry, heritage, and personal memories. Arabic calligraphy lies in its fluidity, allowing endless possibilities for reinterpretation in a fresh, modern context. However, with the NAJLAA collection, we intentionally shifted our focus from calligraphy to further explore and reinterpret the iconic eye symbol.
Our culture has immense richness and beauty, and I constantly draw from this as a source of inspiration, keeping our heritage alive while ensuring its relevance to contemporary tastes. For instance, while working on NAJLAA, I was inspired by a traditional technique from Roman styles – a matte and brushed gold finish that was once highly popular in our region. This nostalgic element, which was a significant trend, has now made a comeback, allowing us to blend tradition with modern aesthetics.
You have had a successful brand for many years now – what do you believe is the secret to sustaining a brand in this industry?
I think the key to sustaining a brand in this industry is remaining authentic and true to your vision. For Bil Arabi, that has meant consistently embracing and celebrating the modern Arab identity. Innovation is equally important; we continually evolve by blending our cultural heritage with contemporary trends, all while staying faithful to the brand’s core identity.
Building and maintaining strong relationships with our clients has been essential as well; many of them have been with us since the beginning, and we actively engage with them to create pieces that reflect their personal expressions. This close connection not only helps us stay relevant but ensures our designs resonate with both loyal clients and new audiences.
What’s the biggest challenge you face in your position today?
The biggest challenge is navigating the balance between honouring tradition and pushing creative boundaries. As a brand rooted in Arabic heritage, it’s important for me to stay true to those cultural narratives while also offering something new and exciting for a global, modern audience. For instance, while working on NAJLAA, I faced the challenge of modernising the eye symbol without losing its traditional significance. We experimented with new materials and forms to give it a fresh look, while making sure it still held the same cultural meaning. It’s always a delicate but rewarding process.
What else is in the pipeline for you this year?
There’s always something exciting in the works, which is one of the joys of being in the creative industry. While I can’t share too many details at this stage, we have a few collaborations that we’re currently exploring.
Can you share any more on collaborations or capsules, and would you like to further expand into other categories?
Absolutely. Collaborations are always an exciting part of Bil Arabi’s journey, and they continue to inspire us creatively. Partnering with other brands allows us to explore new ideas while staying true to our brand’s core ethos. I’m always eager to expand into new categories – it’s exciting to see the Bil Arabi universe take shape in different forms. Some of our most rewarding collaborations have been with brands like Berluti, Iwan Maktabi, and Guerlain, and I’m always open to exploring more opportunities that allow us to push creative boundaries.
Can you share a little about the brand here in the Middle East as well as plans to expand internationally?
The Middle East is truly the heart of Bil Arabi – it’s where our story began and where we continue to evolve. As a homegrown brand, I’m incredibly proud of our roots and always looking for ways to innovate and reach new audiences. It means so much to me to share Bil Arabi’s story with the world, especially highlighting the beauty and essence of the Middle East. I’m grateful for how far we’ve come, and with each step, we’re pushing boundaries to capture the world’s attention.
How would you assess the industry in the region as a whole today?
The jewellery industry in the region is flourishing. There’s a strong sense of cultural pride, and people are seeking designs that tell a story – pieces that connect them to their heritage. At the same time, there’s a growing appreciation for contemporary design, and I think that balance is what makes the industry so dynamic and exciting right now.
We’re also seeing a shift where clients are on the lookout for more bespoke, personalised pieces that reflect both their cultural background and their individual style, and this is something that is so true to our ethos at Bil Arabi.
What would you still like to achieve at the brand that you haven’t done yet?
There’s still so much more I want to achieve with Bil Arabi. I’m eager to explore new design forms and mediums, whether in jewellery or beyond while staying true to our cultural roots. Experimenting with different materials and techniques allows me to expand the brand’s creative expression and introduce new ways of telling our story. Success, for me, is about sharing this journey with the world, and I feel proud when people connect with Bil Arabi’s message. What drives me is seeing our heritage reflected in our designs and knowing it resonates with others.
What is a message you would send to our readers?
Embrace your heritage and express it proudly. Jewellery, for me, is a way of telling your own personal story, and I hope through Bil Arabi, we can inspire others to take pride in their identity and share it with the world.