Cartier Unveils New Icons at Watches&Wonders 2025

Emma Hodgson   |   04-04-2025

Cartier has presented a series of innovative watch designs at Watches&Wonders this week, including new interpretations of iconic pieces such as the Tressage, Tank Louis Cartier, Tank à Guichets, and Panthère watches.

The Tressage watch stands out for its architectural approach to jewellery. Featuring a sculptural interplay of yellow and white gold, diamonds, and sapphires, the watch is offered in several variations. These include versions paved with snow-set diamonds, gradient sapphires, and a black lacquered dial contrasted with smooth gadroons. The brancards have been deliberately extended to enhance the volume, resulting in a design that bridges jewellery and watchmaking.

The Tank Louis Cartier

Cartier has also expanded its classic Tank Louis Cartier line. The latest model is larger and equipped with the new automatic 1899 MC movement. Despite its increased size, the watch preserves the proportions and design codes of the original 1922 model. Available in yellow and rose gold, it features a flinqué dial and sword-shaped blue steel hands.

The Tank à Guichets

The Tank à Guichets returns as part of the Cartier Privé collection. First introduced in 1928, the model is distinguished by its digital time display via two apertures. The 2025 edition uses the manually wound 9755 MC calibre and is offered in yellow gold, rose gold, and two platinum variants. The classic configuration maintains the hour and minute apertures at 12 and 6 o’clock respectively, while the limited-edition platinum model repositions them diagonally, referencing design experiments from the 1930s.

The Panthère

Cartier’s Panthère collection continues to evolve with intricate craftsmanship. The Panthère de Cartier watch is now presented with animal-inspired motifs in lacquer, spessartites, and diamonds. One variant features a dial set with 145 diamonds and a bracelet set with 314 diamonds and 86 spessartites, requiring over 110 hours of work.

The Panthère Jewellery Watch

In parallel, the Panthère Jewellery Watch blends figurative sculpture with horology. The standout model features a three-dimensional panther with tsavorite eyes and an onyx nose, pouncing across a ‘Toi & Moi’ bracelet. Another version in white gold showcases a fur-setting technique and is adorned with 1103 diamonds.

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