The 10 Luxury Watches That Have Defined Horology Over The Decades

Lindsay Judge   |   18-09-2025

In the world of fine watchmaking, certain timepieces rise above seasonal trends to become timeless landmarks, embodying the pinnacle of design, innovation, and desirability.

These watches are more than instruments of time; they are symbols of heritage, artistry, and enduring style. Whether forged in the depths of the ocean, the halls of royal courts, or even the surface of the moon, each is a testament to the enduring allure of horology. Owning one is not just about telling time—it is about holding a piece of history that continues to define the art of watchmaking. We explore eight luxury watches that have secured their place as icons, each with its own unique story.

Rolex Submariner

Few watches have achieved the universal recognition of the Rolex Submariner. Launched in 1953 as a professional dive watch, the Submariner defined the category with its unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous indices, and water resistance that evolved over decades. Beyond its technical prowess, it became a pop culture icon—immortalised by Sean Connery’s James Bond in Dr. No. Today, whether in stainless steel or precious metals, the Submariner remains a benchmark for sporty elegance, balancing rugged performance with a design that is instantly identifiable across the globe.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

When Gérald Genta unveiled the Royal Oak in 1972, it broke every rule in the book. A luxury sports watch in stainless steel with an octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet was radical at the time.

Initially polarising, the Royal Oak redefined modern watch design and established Audemars Piguet as a pioneer of contemporary horology.

Its iconic “Tapisserie” dial, exposed screws, and slim profile have made it a favourite among collectors and tastemakers, while limited editions and complicated iterations continue to drive its cult status.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Another Gérald Genta masterpiece, the Patek Philippe Nautilus debuted in 1976 and quickly became a symbol of understated luxury. Its rounded porthole-inspired case and horizontally embossed dial set it apart from traditional dress watches, embodying the idea that a fine watch could be both elegant and casual.

Today, the Nautilus commands extraordinary demand in both steel and gold, and it is celebrated for its craftsmanship, versatility, and the timeless Patek philosophy that “you never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation.”

Cartier Tank

Introduced in 1917 and inspired by the silhouette of military tanks during World War I, the Cartier Tank is an enduring emblem of refined minimalism.

Worn by style icons from Jackie Kennedy to Princess Diana, the Tank’s rectangular case, Roman numeral dial, and chemin-de-fer minute track have remained virtually unchanged for over a century.

Its ability to transcend eras—adapting seamlessly from Art Deco chic to modern elegance—cements its status as a quintessential watch for women and men alike.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

The Reverso is one of the most ingenious watch designs ever created. Born in 1931 for British polo players in India, it features a unique swiveling case that flips to protect the dial from impacts.

Over the decades, Jaeger-LeCoultre has transformed the Reverso into a canvas for both technical artistry and aesthetic exploration, with enamel painting, skeletonization, and dual-time complications. The combination of Art Deco geometry and functional innovation ensures its place as a timeless icon of horology.

Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch”

The Speedmaster is not just a chronograph—it is a piece of history. In 1969, it became the first watch worn on the moon, earning its “Moonwatch” moniker.

Its robust construction, legible design, and NASA certification for manned spaceflight have made it an enduring symbol of human exploration. Collectors prize both vintage and modern iterations, with its black dial, tachymeter bezel, and tri-compax layout representing the perfect marriage of form and function.

Piaget Altiplano

Known for its ultra-thin movements and timeless sophistication, the Piaget Altiplano is the epitome of minimalist elegance. Launched in the 1950s and refined ever since, it has become synonymous with slim, dressy watches that double as jewelry for the wrist.

Piaget’s mastery of thin movements allows for dials in stone, enamel, and gem-set artistry, making the Altiplano a go-to for collectors seeking quiet luxury and impeccable craftsmanship.

Bvlgari Serpenti

A true icon of women’s horology, the Bvlgari Serpenti coils around the wrist like a piece of high jewellery, blending the worlds of watchmaking and goldsmithing.

First appearing in the 1940s, the serpent motif has become a signature of the Roman house, representing seduction, rebirth, and eternal elegance. Its Tubogas construction and hidden watch face make it as much a statement bracelet as a timepiece, coveted by collectors for its glamour and artistry.

Breitling Navitimer

First launched in 1952, the Breitling Navitimer quickly became the pilot’s watch of choice thanks to its innovative slide rule bezel, which could perform crucial flight calculations.

With its distinctive multi-scale dial and robust chronograph movement, it remains a symbol of aviation heritage and technical utility. Today, the Navitimer continues to resonate with travelers and adventurers who appreciate its storied legacy in the skies.

Zenith El Primero

Introduced in 1969, the El Primero was the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph beating at a high frequency of 36,000 vph—enabling tenth-of-a-second precision. Preserved in the 1970s by watchmaker Charles Vermot, it returned in the 1980s to power Zenith’s resurgence.

More recently, the Chronomaster Revival A386 and A384 models faithfully recreated the original 1969 design using historical blueprints—with updated steel cases, tricolour dials, and the modern El Primero 3600 movement that offers 1/10-second accuracy. This blend of heritage and cuttingedge mechanics keeps the El Primero at the forefront of chronograph excellence.

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