In a rare and candid interview, Swiss born ‘Master of Complications’ Franck Muller talks to us about his inspirations, watchmaking, and his most treasured designs.

With a family history that includes a mother of Italian descent and a Swiss father, Franck Muller was raised in a multicultural environment and inherited both creative talent and rigorous exactitude. From a very early age he developed a growing interest for all mechanical devices. Beginning by restoring watches, he was described by some as a technical prodigy. Muller then became responsible for handling watches from the collection of Patek Philippe, before devoting himself to the creation of one-ofa- kind timepieces. In 1983, after months of research and dedication, Franck Muller presented his first wristwatches, designing his own tourbillon wristwatch. Muller recognised very early on that the Tourbillon was an important scientific invention, and created, for the first time ever, a Tourbillon visible from the front. Something which very few watchmakers are capable of creating to this day.

The House of Franck Muller opened in 1991, and his ultra complicated timepieces instantly became famous in Europe and the United States. They were favoured by the likes of Elton John, who famously commissioned a Franck Muller watch for each guest at his star strewn Hollywood birthday party.

Today, the brand has grown from a boutique product to one of the most renowned watchmaking houses in the world. The association of an original design with a complex traditional mechanism, together with Muller’s razor sharp commercial acumen, gives the Franck Muller collections a harmony that has charmed the entire world ever since its incredible inception.

How did your journey begin in watchmaking?

Everything began when I was 6 years old. My father gave me a watch with ‘Unbreakable’ written on the back. It was like magic to me! From this day, I knew that my fate was to design timepieces.

What are the key moments that determined your path in the industry?

When I joined the Geneva School of Watch Making, to study watchmaking, I was absorbed by lessons and learning, and always got the highest marks. When I graduated, Patek Philippe asked me to work for them and restore classic watches. At the beginning of my career, I also used to work for private collectors. Following this experience, I immediately had the desire to manufacture my own watches. I have always been fascinated by complicated mechanical watches and my desire was to create my own pieces. In 1984, I presented the first tourbillon at the front of a wristwatch, which has since been adopted by all watchmakers.

Proud to be Emirati Limited Edition Collection

Tell us about your most treasured designs and do you have some anecdotes from their creation that you can share with us?

At the start of the 90’s, I designed a completely new watch-case. All the research was based on the discovery of a single spherical point at which the three axes of the watch’s curves had to meet. The three curves of the ‘Cintrée Curvex’ watch are in perfect balance. The most sophisticated machines are needed to produce it, as not only the watch case, but also the back, dial, hands and glass have to be curved.

I find all my inspiration and creativity in my everyday life. One of the most emblematic Franck Muller watches is the ‘Crazy Hours’. This piece was born while I was holidaying in Mauritius. During my stay in a prestigious hotel there, I had to follow many rules. I compared those rules to life. Every day we have to follow lots of rules and time is the rhythm of those rules. Therefore, I decided to create a watch with no rules, and the ‘Crazy Hours’ was born.

What is your definition of ‘luxury’?

Time is luxury.

Which watch are you wearing right now?

Do you alternate watches for different occasions or days? I am currently wearing a ‘Giga Tourbillon’ with black diamonds. This piece is actually one of my favourites. Through it’s skeleton body, you can admire it’s huge heart beating. The ‘Giga Tourbillon’ features the largest tourbillon in the world, and the entirety of the watch is manufactured by the watchmakers of Genthood. This piece is not only a watch, it is a masterpiece that claims it’s both powerful and pioneering character through its body. Depending on my mood, and also the day, I pick either a complicated watch or a classic one.

Franck Muller Boutique, Dubai Mall

Has technology been a strong factor in these developments?

Thanks to our industrial virtualisation, we have the freedom to create new and avantgarde pieces, allowing us to be reactive and offer customers bespoke products. The Franck Muller group chose a selection of locations closely linked to the history of watchmaking, and we are forever committed to maintain our know-how, in order to bring together all the professions required for the creation of a timepiece. This independence of production enables the Franck Muller group to push the barriers of watchmaking even further, with an innovative spirit and great technique, whilst fully respecting the Swiss watchmaking tradition.

Where do you look to for inspiration for your unique designs?

My everyday life is my inspiration. I love creating pieces that remind me of my own past experiences. Almost all the Franck Muller watches have a story and are a source of emotion for their owner. Perhaps, I can even get inspiration from this interview!

How do you incorporate trends into haute horology when there is a far longer timeline to produce each piece?

We are always in tune with our customers’ needs and desires, and we always try to surprise them with new and innovative pieces which reflect the brand’s values and savoir-faire. Thanks to our independence of production, we have the freedom to produce unique models and be reactive, together with offering customers shorter time frames and better quality.

You have just opened your flagship boutique in Dubai. Has the design of this store been tailored for the region?

The boutique is designed to be the ‘House of Franck Muller’ and no matter which boutique the customer visits, he or she will definitely be greeted with a familiarity and welcoming warmth, reflecting the philosophy that each boutique is the ‘home’ of Franck Muller. Every customer who walks in, is a friend. Our boutiques are the reflection of the brand, we display not only watches, but also a story and a know-how. However, some aspects of our Dubai boutique were indeed adapted to the Middle East taste.

Are you satisfied with the performance of the brand in the Middle-East?

The Middle East region and Dubai are very strong markets and the boutique displays the most beautiful Franck Muller pieces in the region. So far, we are very confident with the performance of the brand in the country. This flagship store in Dubai gathers the best of Franck Muller, and promises to be a reference in the field of fine watchmaking. We are particularly happy with our recent presentation of the ‘Proud to be Emirati’  collection. The pieces embody the history of  the UAE, through the symbolism on the dial.

What can we see for the future of Franck Muller?

In September, we introduced the first Franck Muller yacht, created in collaboration with the Italian Sea Group. It is the first time a watchmaking brand has worked together with a yachting company to create a new generation of yachts. The yacht has been presented with a new line of watches, the Yachting collection, which have been directly inspired by the boat itself. Our plans for the medium to long term, are to keep developing this new project, whilst always creating unique and complicated pieces.

What are your goals for the brand for 2016?

To continue developing the brand overseas, together with travelling to attain inspiration for new and unique designs. We are also constructing two more buildings at Watchland to keep up with the ever increasing demand. These buildings are the reflection of the brand know-how and quest for perfection.

By Eliza Scarborough

Inside a CEO’s Wardrobe

What is on your wardrobe wish list for 2016?

I am keen on leather items. I would like a new pair of crocodile shoes.

Tell us about the must haves in your wardrobe?

My wardrobe is full of tailored shirts. I especially like fancy shirts and I have lots of them with flowers. I am sure you can already see that I never wear a tie, it’s far too formal for me.

Who is your style icon and why?

Rather than an icon, I love any designs related to Art Deco. Everywhere I travel, I try to explore antique shops for these.

What decade best describes your style and why?

I love life and I adapt to all the decades, with all of their creations.