Thom Browne presented his Spring 2027 womenswear collection at New York Fashion Week this week, exploring the natural world through insects, plants and the process of metamorphosis.
For more than 25 years, Browne has challenged traditional proportions through meticulous detailing, continuing his exploration of the modern uniform. For spring, the vibrant colours and organic forms of insects and plants are set against the geometric order of checks, including madras plaids, grid check pique and checked cashmere. Structured tailoring is combined with pleating and asymmetrical embellishments.
Insects feature throughout the collection, with jacquard grasshoppers beneath embroidered grass, sequin flies and moths across overcoats and pleated skirts, and ants rendered in gold bullion thread and red and black intarsia. Bees appear on a Chesterfield overcoat, while butterfly wing embroidery and dragonfly jacquard create mosaic-like effects.
Texture is shown through wool Swiss dot tailoring, raffia tipping and tweeds referencing green pastures and pink flower gardens. Mesh, silks, tweeds, Oxfords and plaids form the patterned bodies of beetles, while intarsia bikinis and anatomical colour blocking depict tree frogs and poison dart frogs.
The insect theme extends to accessories and footwear, including colourful grasshopper clutches, micro beetle attaché cases and a tortoise frame bag decorated with leather butterfly wings. Platform heels and pumps incorporate materials including patent leather, suede, pony and crystals to depict bees, dragonflies and caterpillars.
The collection progresses through representations of the black widow, crickets, a fly and silkworm before introducing cocoons appliquéd with butterfly wings.
Butterflies then emerge in pleated handkerchief hem skirts paired with high-neck one-piece swimsuits, marking the final stage of the collection’s metamorphosis before the unveiling of the bride.
