Elegant, understated creations make for a subtle and feminine collection by Dior fine jewellery.

“Rose Dior Bagatelle” Necklace, “Archi Dior” Bracelet, “Bois de Rose” Bracelet By Dior Fine Jewellery

Dior Grand Bal Resille Rouge By Dior Timepieces

LEFT IMAGE:  “Tete de Mort” Necklace, “Tete de Mort” Ring, By Dior Fine Jewellery

RIGHT IMAGE:  “Tete de Mort” Necklace, “Tete de Mort” Ring, By Dior Fine Jewellery

Dior VIII Grand Bal, By Dior Timepieces

LEFT IAGE: “Diorella” Ring, “Archi Dior” Bracelet, By Dior Fine Jewellery

RIGHT IMAGE:  “Gourmande Libellule” Ring, “Miss Dior” Ring By Dior Fine Jewellery

LEFT IMAGE: “Rose Dior Bagatelle” Necklace, “Archi Dior” Earrings By Dior Fine Jewellery

RIGHT IMAGE: “Diorette” Ring By Dior Fine Jewellery

La D de Dior Satine – Malachite By Dior Timepieces

Fashion Director: Lindsay Judge

Photographer: Greg Adamski

Hair and make-up: Ania Poniatowska

Model: Tania at MMG Models

Location: La Ville Hotel, Dubai

Messika is a name we have heard a lot of in the last few years despite being a relatively new fine jewellery House, founded by Valerie Messika in 2000.

The last few years have created extraordinary growth for the Maison thanks to its unique style of minimal fine jewellery as well as strong celebrity endorsements and a collaboration with Gigi Hadid. As a young jewellery designer Valerie Messika didn’t have a decades-long heritage and history to her brand as many jewellery houses do, but what she does have is a lifetime of being immersed in the world of diamonds. Her father was famous diamond merchant André who passed his core values down to his daughter.

Growing up in Paris with her family, Valerie was surrounded by diamonds from a young age and has spoken many times of the inspiration this has given her. After working closely with her father, Valerie moved away from diamond trading to concentrate on her passion for design. Guided by her love for precious stones Valerie discovered a niche in the market, and founded Messika.

What Valerie strives to do is create a new approach to wearing diamonds. Her philosophy is to imagine, dream and create – and she has done just that. With her fine jewellery Maison she has combined the timelessness of the stone with the modern approach of minimal understated designs to create something that’s quite unique in the market. Her pieces are made to be worn every day and Valerie’s keen eye for detail ensures that each creation perfectly represents her vision. She is currently striving to create new shapes and styles that blend these traditional stones with a contemporary way of wearing them.

Last year Messika collaborated with Gigi Hadid on a fine jewellery collection. And this September it introduces a second.  My Soul has been designed by Gigi and features minimal pieces that can be layered and stacked to be worn in a bohemian-chic way. Inspired by the hippy trend, Gigi worked very closely with Valerie who’s input came from her knowledge of the stones. The collection features chokers, bracelets, anklets, and earrings.

Ahead of the launch we talk to Valerie Messika who shares her passion for what she does and the vision for the brand.

You were immersed in jewellery your whole childhood – how do you think this influenced you?

My whole childhood is filled with memories of diamonds. My first real crush for diamonds was at the age of 12 when I found an envelope with tiny diamonds at my parent’s house in Paris. I was fascinated by the light they exhaled. I learned how to look inside each stone. That’s where my attention to detail and keen observation comes from.

What does a diamond mean to you?

Diamonds are in my DNA.

How important is family to you?

I met my husband at Messika. I had just finished my communications degree, while he was carrying out his first internship in diamond sorting. We have two little girls, Romane (7) and Noa (5). I try to pass down my passion to my girls. They do show interest especially on the collections named by each of them. My girls inspire me every day!

What inspires you for your designs?

I get my inspiration from a lot of things, all the time – I am constantly on the lookout for things! I am always looking for inspirations on my travels, through architecture, interior design (which I am crazy about), by walking through the streets in Paris and observing people’s attitude and style. I admire the Parisian’s, they look so chic but always in a very minimal and effortless way. The names of collections are chosen after the jewels are created. The jewel is always the starting point.

What is your favourite diamond cut?

My favorite cut is the pear shape diamond. For me this shape means both sensual and dazzling.

Tell us a bit about the process a stone will go through from when it is discovered to when a woman wears it.

I always have in my mind the sentence: “In the same way that we choose our future partner with the heart, we choose a diamond for the emotion that it creates in us.” I start all my creations with a blank page. This is opposite to the prestigious houses of Place Vendôme that have centuries of rich archives of distinct styles. At Messika, each new collection is a real jump into the void; although I admit feeding obsessions for certain jewellery techniques. I always start the process without a precise brief.

The most difficult aspect of my jewellery creation process is to transcribe my ideas into a drawing. I always have many ideas, but sometimes it is quite difficult to get the result I have imagined and visualised. I am very lucky to have all of my team in Paris and to be able to work very closely with them, in our high jewellery atelier based in the heart of the city of lights. At the end, and thankfully, we always manage to make it possible and produce collections that we are all so proud of.

What’s the one piece of jewellery every woman should own in her lifetime?

A heritage piece of jewellery. When I was young, my grandmother, one of the most amazing women I have ever met, offered me one of her rings, a pear shape diamond of 9.30 carats. That is my favourite and most treasured piece of jewellery.

What makes Messika’s pieces unique?

Through the years, Messika gained special in-house techniques:  Messika made its name around one collection and technique – the Diamond in motion, with Move Collection. Through the innovative Silk technique, I came close to recreating the suppleness of fabric in the jewels, taming gold so that it hugs the curves of the body like a precious garment worn next to the skin.

Last year, Messika developed the Feather setting, this is used for the Firebird necklace, and is an innovative diamond-setting technique unveiled last year by Messika. Certain rows of stones in the centre are underlined by a delicate half-surround of brilliant-cut diamonds arranged by level. The stone’s original shape is thereby elongated, enhancing its perspective and volume.

The skinny concept was born out of the desire to make the river of diamonds into an item a woman can always turn to in her day to day life. Thanks to the system of micro-springs, the jewellery is elastic and extendable.

Do you have a favourite from all the pieces you have created?

I don’t really have a favourite piece, but I must say that I am really proud of my High Jewellery collections. This year, my High Jewellery Atelier created more than 150 High Jewellery pieces.

You chose to partner with Gigi Hadid for a number of collections – how do you think she captures the identity of your brand?

Gigi Hadid and I are launching a second collection this September. The choice of Gigi Hadid as the muse of Messika was simple. The renowned model is the perfect incarnation of the multi-facetted brand, not least owing to her modern approach, her simplicity and her love of fashion. She is the perfect example of the Messika woman: she is spontaneous and bright, filled with energy and light.

Tell us about the new Gigi collection – it feels quite bohemian – what is the inspiration?

For this collection, Gigi Hadid wanted to create a collection that was still true to her jewellery-wearing style but that could still be mixed with pieces from the first collection. The second collection is influenced by Gigi’s Middle Eastern background and inspiration from travel.

Tell us your rules for wearing jewellery.

My pieces are not created to stay in a safe. If I can give one piece of advice to all women, it’s to wear their jewels in everyday life.

What comes first – jewellery or clothes?

Both. Fashion is one of my passions and I get my inspiration from it. I always try to mix and match with fashion and diamonds, as they perfectly enhance each other.

What’s the best advice you’ve ever been given?

“Do only diamonds”

“Remain legitimate in what you know how to do and do not lose yourself”

“Do not copy” meaning that I need to have your style.

How do you think your approach to jewellery is unique?

I think that my approach must be different as I bring a fashion perspective. My goal is to answer to women’s desires and I want to enhance a woman’s natural beauty. Also, I always put a part of myself into my design. I have a personal and sentimental touch.

How should a piece of jewellery make you feel?

I create elegant diamond pieces to be worn on an everyday basis. A modern mix between timeless and contemporary pieces, but always with a little twist. “Less is More” is my credo and I imagine my collections around 4 core values: Modernity, Lightness, Purity, and Sensuality.

I have been always lucky to work with diamonds in a free and audacious mind set.

I like my creations to be very comfortable; women should be able to live her life without being annoyed by excessively heavy jewellery.

So many amazing women have worn your jewels – is there anyone you would like to see wearing them that hasn’t yet?

I have been lucky to see my jewellery on many celebrities. It’s always a great moment of emotion to see such prestigious personalities choosing jewellery for their events or simply their everyday life. Beyoncé for example, wearing a Glam’Azone ring day and night.

What challenges do you face as a business woman?

Talent is not enough, you need to work hard to fulfil your dream.

What makes you happy?

My family and the fact that Messika Paris is growing so fast. I am so proud of my team.

What makes you angry?

I won’t say angry but disturbs me or annoys me. But when things don’t go the way I imagine, like when I create a piece. I am a perfectionist and I strive for everything to be perfect.

Where do you plan to be in five years time?

Everything is going so fast for Messika. I feel like I am living in a dream! I hope Messika will continue to evolve, we are still a young brand and there are still so many things we would like to achieve.

This year, I chose to reinterpret fairy tales for my new High Jewellery collection, hence my collection name “Once Upon a Time”. The tales, like we imagine them, do not necessarily coincide at first sight with Messika, which is very modern. So, I decide to reinterpret, in my own way, stories where strong women are put forward.

The Outnet has changed the world’s perception of off-season products. Now it is localising its site to focus on customers in the Middle East, we talk to off-season president Alessandra Rossi.

With its trend-led approach to providing products from past seasons, the Outnet has become the world’s biggest off-season retailer. A platform that started off as the sister of luxury e-commerce site Net A Porter, it has outgrown its initial placement to become a global brand in its own right, offering customers trend focused products at a discounted price.

Although the pieces are from previous seasons, The Outnet focuses on providing products and content that follow current trends. We all know that trends come back around, so it’s easy for The Outnet to keep up, and the bonus for the customers is the reduced price. As well as other designer’s pieces The Outnet has its own brand Iris & Ink which has hugely grown in popularity. It’s just launched a work wear boutique with a focus on style and functionality and the latest collaboration with Preen by Thorton Bregazzi is an exclusive collection of newly designed pieces not available anywhere else.

With all this going on at the same time as planning the launch of a localised GCC-based site, The Outnet team are keeping themselves very busy. In between the hectic schedules we talked to Off Season President Alessandra Rossi on a recent visit to Dubai. We get an insight on what exciting developments we can expect over the coming months as the Outnet puts a strong focus on our region.

Who is the Outnet shopper?

She is 35 plus. She is used to a luxury shopping experience and a high quality of service. She is a customer that knows what she wants, she is savvy. She is mixing the full price buy with the off-price buy.

So you think most customers are also buying full price products?

Yes they mostly do, especially in the region as people have many occasions that they want to be ready for so they will buy an off-season product for an event perhaps.

Are there patterns in the types of products customers are buying full price and reduced price?

The top category across both is always dresses but it is also depending on the editing and what we offer on the site at any particular time. It is our core DNA to provide great editorial contact. We tend to have a clear edit we are not just selecting everything so the editing part is very important.

I don’t know if you are aware but originally we used to take all of our product from Net A Porter from their end of season stock, but now only seven percent comes from Net A Porter so we go directly to the brands. We have 350 brands on-site, we do exclusive collaborations with brands as well. We are much more in touch with brands directly and curate from them.

What are  the differences between marketing off-season and on-season products?

I mean they tend to have completely different strategies. It’s a matter of understanding the customer’s needs and trying to adapt to their needs. So the term of approach is similar – the editing, the way we showcase the product on site, the way we create content. One difference is that we have four uploads a week whereas for in-season they maybe only upload products by season but for us it’s much more fast-paced so the customer is really excited. There is an excitement and an urgency to shop with us.

How are you communicating with your customers?

We send out newsletters, we have Chat Bot which is our latest robot. We have Facebook which talks about what’s coming up. We have influencers promoting our products. We have homepages that constantly change and we have a 10,000 insider panel which is very engaged. So I would say we’re quite fast paced and so our marketing strategy reflects that.

How do you think The Outnet has made it cool to wear off-season pieces?

That was the plan! We are relevant. The trends you see in the magazines, you’ll find it on our site because the buying team are curating with that in mind. For sure the editing and the way we showcase products is the key part of the site. We try to understand exactly what is the needs of the buying customer.

Which markets are particularly important to you at the moment?

Here! That’s the reason why we are here! We are making investment in the region. We also recently moved to a completely new platform that allows us to be much more local than we were before. So the geographical expansion is one of the key pillars of our strategy for the future. This is a starting point. The fact that we are localizing is just the beginning, we are going to be even more and more local. Still keeping the global identity but making it much more local.

So will all the editorial content on the site be specific to the region?

The core will be global and everything will be managed by our team in London, but certain edits will be local. We need to be relevant for the customers lifestyle but also keep the global identity. This is the challenge we have.

Have you been in touch with the customers on a personal level?

We had an event to show the latest collection to the customers and it was exactly for that – so we could see the reaction in their eyes and understand exactly what they are interested in. This gives us a clear indication on what they want. It was definitely very interesting.

How soon will the local site be live?

We started in April with some major improvements, we changed the currency so you can now pay in dirham. We are going to localise the site offering both languages (Arabic and English). This is a major improvement of our platform and the first time we have done it. This is going live this fall. We will also have the option for cash on delivery. We realised after asking to our customers that this is something they think is very important for the market.

What can you tell us about Iris and Ink?

Iris and Ink was launched in 2012 with the idea of offering a collection of essentials to complete the look. But after five years the collection is wide so it is a proper collection. Surprisingly in the region it is working really well and globally it is one of the top five brands on the site. It fits in very seamlessly into the wardrobe. It’s also a side effect that the customer is trusting us.

Are there plans to expand it further?

Of course, always.

What do you think is the future of online shopping in the region?

Things will become more and more mobile. I started working in e-commerce twenty years ago and the mobile didn’t exist at this time. So something that still surprises me is how the Smartphone disrupted the industry in such a  short time. You really make a quick connection between the information and the product you can access it everywhere. It’s something that still surprises me a lot but being mobile first is our core strategy. Fifty five per cent of sales come from mobiles. The accessibility is so easy.

How do you design the mobile site differently to the desktop site?

What is designed for the app is very different to the desktop site because we are finding that the customer doesn’t want the same content on the app. They want to just shop, she wants the filters to make it easier and have a quicker easier experience. The connection with social media is very, very close.

What’s the one item every woman should own?

If you ask me personally it’s shoes! If you ask me professionally – a beautiful dress. If you ask me to choose – I don’t know!

Are there any particular brands or products that you think never go out of fashion?

The white shirt, the black blazer – the classics.

What’s the last clothing item you shopped for?

This Valentino dress that I’m wearing – from The Outnet of course.

Are there any cultures you find particularly fascinating in the way they shop?

That’s what so great about being so global you learn so much from the markets. We learn about which brands the markets like. Here it’s Dolce & Gabbana and Pucci. Whereas in another market it might not be that at all. I think the general theme is that all our customers have passion and urgency to shop.

What do you love most about what you do?

The passion that is across everyone. Working with people, the team and also having the chance to meet the customers. I think this is the most fascinating part of my job. Also when we receive emails of feedback from the customers. I really always enjoy to read a message from a customer.

For you, what is luxury?

Authenticity.

What else can you tell us about the future of the brand?

That’s pretty much what we can tell you – the core message is that we will be more local and more relevant. The challenge is to find the right balance between what is relevant for the brand and what is relevant for the customer.

How are you going to be different from other off-season local sites in the region?

The fact that our assortment is unique is the main point of difference we have. The fact that we are editing the content and the fact that we have a huge selection of global brands who we are working directly with. We also have exclusive collections.

Anything else you want to tell us?

Top tip for the readers check the site at 10am UK time because that’s when the uploads go on site four times a week! And once everything is gone it’s gone and it goes very quickly.

Louis Vuitton presents the new edition of its city guides.

These 30 books include a stylish guide to some of the world’s most iconic cities. Since 1998 Louis Vuitton has been creating guides for the discerning travelling, developing its own unique take on the world’s most popular destinations.

This series includes guides to Paris of course, as well as Bangkok, Los Angeles, Rio de Janeiro, Shanghai, Rome and more. Each guide delves into the city to present a unique look on the places to visit and experiences to be had all in line with the brands core values and the latest trends.

This year the guides contains the most up to date places to eat, stay, work and visit, as well of course where to shop with secret boutiques and secret spots. The guides are also available in a mobile app version providing 24 hour access to travel information.

Alexander McQueen presents a new bag for autumn/winter 18. The Pin Bag is a key shape for the season and references the layered silhouettes that were seen in the ready-to-wear collection. Made from sleek leather the bag features a cross body chain shoulder strap and a unique triangular opening that is fastened with a pin. The jewelled embellishment is finished with a sparkling butterfly, beetle or spider in crystal or pearl.

The bag comes in a number of colourways including black, bottle green, bone, carmine and red with tonal piping. Perfect for day to night wear, the Pin Bag is medium in size and fuss-free to wear thanks to its long cross body strap, but it can also be worn as an evening bag with the shorter carry strap. The Pin Bag features two compartments, a flat zip pocket and a card pocket with suede lining.

The bag is already a huge hit after it’s red carpet debut in February with Cate Blanchett being an avid wearing in the last few months. The actress has been spotted with the bottle green and black colourway on several occasions. The Pin Bag has already been tipped as the new “IT Bag” and starts a new generation of accessories for the brand.

From a pharmacy to a luxury business, success story from Florence with 400 years of tradition.

Portale d’ ingresso

When entering the flagship store of Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in Florence, customers are first and foremost overwhelmed. Without any doubt one knows that this must be a historical place.

The noble entrance hall and ornately decorated portal with its elaborate ornamentation was built in the 19th century. The more guests move inside, the further they travel back to the beginnings of the business in the 13th century – from the first second they are  surrounded by the scent of floral essences including rose, magnolia and gardenia.

Giardino

Shortly after their arrival in Florence in 1221, monks of the Dominican Order began cultivating medicinal herbs in the neighbouring gardens of their prayer room Santa Maria Novella delle Vigne to produce tinctures, balms and pastilles for the small medical station in their cloister.

A short time later the construction of the famous Basilica of Santa Maria Novella, which is today one of the most famous churches in Florence, had begun. The monastery of the Dominicans grew larger and they treated more and more patients with homemade pharmaceutical products. Officially, the year 1612 is considered to be the founding year of the brand of Santa Maria Novella, since back then the monks made the pharmacy accessible for the public and started their business. It gradually became known beyond the European borders in Russia and Asia.

Sala Verde

Sala Vendita

Production

Today’s sales room is the former chapel of the monastery dedicated to the benevolent San Niccolò di Bari. Visitors literally discover the brand’s history step by step. The beautiful marble floors and artistic frescoes tell their own story and form the aesthetic framework for the nostalgically designed flacons, bottles, tubes and soaps.

The collections of luxury beauty products for body, hair and soul are tastefully displayed on antique furniture and set in scene in an delicate dimmed light. Over the last decade, the range has been expanded to include more specials like high end sun protection and anti-aging products, elegant room fragrances and even pet care products. Floral and herbal teas, organic honey, homemade chocolate and sweets are also on offer and are served in the Tisaneria, the tea salon at Via della Scala, on luxurious porcelain of the Florentine brand Richard Ginori founded in 1735.

Eaux de Colognes created for queens and starred on screens

“Until today our products are made mainly on the basis of natural ingredients,” says Cosimo Fabroni, Chief Operating Officer. For example “the soap Sapone a Base di Latte actually contains milk as its name promises,” said Fabroni. Among the first products that are still in the range today are L’Acqua di Rose, a refreshing light perfume for the body and face, and Sapone al Melograno, the company’s famous pomegranate body soap. It is one of 14 soaps in the assortment, which are also all vegetarian and feature tasteful Italian vintage packaging.

Also among the classics and bestsellers is the Eaux de Cologne. The most famous and oldest of the collection is the Acqua di S.M.Novella. It was created for Caterina de’ Medici in 1533 based on bergamot and other citrus fruits grown in Sicily. She had worn it at her wedding to King Henri II of France. Another bestseller from the series of light perfumes is Aqua di Colonia Melograno, starring in the James Bond Movie Casino Royale as a belonging of the Bond Girl Vesper, played by Eva Green. Its base it the fruit of the pomegranate plant which comes originally from the Orient and appears in many art works symbolising wealth and ambition. All 45 Acqua di Colonia have their own story to tell and spread ancient elegance which is never out of fashion.

To produce their perfumes, soaps and creams. Santa Maria Novella operates with its own production plant, only a few kilometers away from the shop, in the Rifredi district where two famous Medici Villas are located. All raw materials and packaging are made in Italy. “The production processes and techniques have evolved over the years, but the classic products are largely based on the same formulas,” explains Fabroni.

The company does not undertake animal testing, which is one reason why the company does not sell in China, since all cosmetic products have to be tested on animals before being imported. The Santa Maria Novella products are 100% made in Italy. The roses cultivated on large fields in Tuscany, citrus fruits are sourced predominantly from Sicily. Customers can also get an overview of all herbs, flowers and fruits by visiting the company’s own flower garden. In Castello, a few hundred meters from the factory, below the Medici Villa Medicea della Petraia, a 15,000 metre squared garden was built a few years ago. It is kind of a window to the variety of cultivated plants that are the basis of the products.

La Tisaneria

“Our brand is like a beautiful vintage car with a new engine”

Now with 75 stores worldwide, the Italians have created a certain global presence in an excellent environment. Its own stores are located in the chic neighborhoods of major cities such as New York, London and Tokyo, in premium perfumeries and so-called multi-brand stores such as Lodenfrey in Munich. Luxury hotels such as the Four Seasons in Florence use and sell the products in their spas. From the spring of 2019 there will be a Day Spa on Santa Maria Novella on the Tuscan coast.

The development of the traditional brand into an international lifestyle brand has been significantly promoted by President and Co-Owner Eugenio Alphandery. The native Florentine has been working for the company since 1989. His passion for the history and identity of the brand corresponds with his personal passion for classic quality craftsmanship. “For me, the company is like a beautiful vintage car with a handcrafted body, but with a new engine and modern technology. Santa Maria Novella will  be opening their first Middle East store in early 2019. They currently have 75 stores around the world including their flagship store in Florence.

By Jessika Maria Rauch

Excalibur is Roger Dubuis’ favourite platform of expression.

Its aesthetic reveals, by its nature, a very modern and charismatic style for the man who loves an adrenaline rush.

Excalibur Aventador S, Roger Dubuis

Jacket, Valentino, Top, billionaire, Trousers, Diesel Black Gold

LEFT IMAGE: Excalibur Aventador S, Roger Dubuis

Jacket, Dunhill, Jumper, Valentino

RIGHT IMAGE: Excalibur Aventador S, Roger Dubuis

Jacket, Valentino, Top, billionaire, Trousers, Diesel Black Gold

LEFT IMAGE: Excalibur Spider Skeleton automatic, Roger Dubuis

Trench coat, Dunhill, Denim shirt, Givenchy at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Jeans, Acne at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Top, Corneliali, Sunglasses, Cartier

RIGHT IMAGE: Excalibur Automatic, Roger Dubuis

George wears Jacket, Corneliali, Polo shirt and trousers, Dunhill

Excalibur Automatic, Roger Dubuis

Jacket, Corneliali, Polo shirt and trousers, Dunhill

LEFT IMAGE: Excalibur Automatic, Roger Dubuis

Shirt and trousers, Givenchy

RIGHT IMAGE: Excalibur Automatic, Roger Dubuis

Polo shirt Paul smith at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Trousers, Corneliali

Excalibur Spider Skeleton automatic, Roger Dubuis

Trench coat, Dunhill, Denim shirt, Givenchy at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Jeans, Acne at Harvey Nichols Dubai, Top, Corneliali, Bag, Bottega Veneta, Sunglasses, Cartier, Boots, Givenchy

Excalibur Spider Skeleton automatic, Roger Dubuis, Jumper, Bottega Veneta

Fashion Director: Lindsay Judge

Photographer: Adam Black

Grooming: Emma Gambino

Model: George at Wilhelmina

Location: YAS Hotel, Abu Dhabi

PRADA TAKES OVER NEW YORK CITY FOR A COLOURFUL AND ADVENTUROUS CRUISE RUNWAY PRESENTATION.

Set within Prada’s New York headquarters, a former piano factory, Miuccia Prada found the location for her first ever presentation of a resort collection. With an A-list guestlist, the designer had a goal of getting this show noticed on a grand scale and she did just that.

After touching on it in the fall/winter 18 collection Prada flashed backed to the nineties once again with designs that were reminiscent of the iconic Glen Luchford’s Prada featuring Amber Valletta. With archival collections an ever-popular trend with millennials, it seems Prada was looking to bring back the heritage of the brand from that era, moving it into the forefront for the younger generation.

Inspired by the techno-modest era of the ‘90s, there were geometric prints, delicate fabrics and tailored shapes. Featuring an athleisure touch with the typical mix and match of minimalism and maximalism. Designs were introducing a series of short-sleeved turtlenecks, narrow-waisted silhouettes and heavy gauge tights.

“It’s a kind of fantasy of reality” Miuccia Prada said of her multi-coloured collection backstage. The muted yet vibrant palette of funky patterns, including oversized trapper hats with frill details and the ever-essential presence of the logo, gave the flamboyant collection the perfect balance for trans-seasonal dressing.

A name and a date evoking an iconic model by Vacheron Constantin dating from 1956.

This modern, elegant and relaxed collection with its resolutely cosmopolitan style expresses its personality through the contrast between the classic dial and the daring case.

See our editorial shoot of the FiftySix collection captured at the iconic Abbey Road Studios from the October 2018 issue below.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX DAY-DATE 40MM, STAINLESS STEEL

Shirt, Glanshirt and Waistcoat, Montedoro at The Slowear Store

LEFT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX TOURBILLON 41MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

RIGHT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX TOURBILLON 41MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

Sweater, Ermenegildo Zegna Jacket, Sandro at Mr Porter, Trousers, Rag and Bone at Matches Fashion

LEFT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX DAY-DATE 40MM, STAINLESS STEEL

Sweater, Ermenegildo Zegna at Matches Fashion, Trousers, Incotex at The Slowear Store

RIGHT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX DAY-DATE 40MM, STAINLESS STEEL

LEFT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX TOURBILLON 41MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

Jacket, Ermenegildo Zegna at Matches Fashion

RIGHT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR 40MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

Suede Jacket, Oliver Spencer at Matches Fashion, Sweater, Zanone at The Slowear Store

LEFT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR 40MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

Shirt, Officine Generale at Mr Porter

RIGHT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR 40MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

LEFT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX COMPLETE CALENDAR 40MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

Sweater, Zanone and Trousers, Incotex at The Slowear Store

RIGHT IMAGE: VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX DAY-DATE 40MM, STAINLESS STEEL

Suede shirt, AMI at Mr Porter

VACHERON CONSTANTIN FIFTYSIX TOURBILLON 41MM, 18K 5N PINK GOLD

Coat and Sweater, Ermenegildo Zegna

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough

Photographer: Jenny Brough

Grooming: Julie Read

Model: Andy at Models 1

Videographer: Curt Taylor

Head of Kuwait-based site thouqi.com Linda Darahim discusses how she is supporting local and up and coming designers to make it on a worldwide platform.

Middle East based e-commerce site Thouqi.com is supporting regional designers. Head of the site Linda Darahim oversees the sourcing of local and upcoming brands. When she joined in 2013 it was a two person team and Linda was responsible for everything from photoshoots to contacting new designers to marketing. Over the five years the sites popularity has grown hugely and so two has the team.

Today Linda focuses on supporting the platform’s designers and evolving its overall strategy. Thouqi currently stocks over 90 luxury brands from the region and it is growing fast. Here Linda gives us an insight into the Thouqi brand.

What do you think makes Thouqi so popular?

We launched the website with one goal: be the best at what we were doing. And to achieve that, we needed to be surrounded by the very best. The early adopters were truly trendy people; people who travelled a lot had social events and needed to find clothes that matched their traditions. We have the chance to be in touch with creative designers and close to customers that are real influencers in the region. We also have worldwide fixed delivery cost and we have a very experienced customer service and logistic team.

Who is the Thouqi customer?

Women who are aware of fashion, regional and international trends. She knows what she wants.

As a customer why would we visit Thouqi as opposed to international sites?

We have a very unique selection and style coming from regional designers that understand the Middle Eastern women lifestyle and needs.

Which designers are you particularly excited about at the moment?

Haa Designs as she’s growing so fast! And she’s asked to collaborate with influencers and multinational companies.

How do you think Thouqi is empowering up and coming designers?

Thouqi.com is the first of its kind and we are very proud to support up and coming Middle Eastern designers. Our team scours the Middle East from Dubai to Cairo, Kuwait and Riyadh, to find the latest and greatest in luxury fashion. So many creative designers were coming up across the region and they weren’t getting the attention they deserved. Initially, most of these designers were only known in their country or within their limited circle. We are very fortunate to work with and provide this platform for incredible creatives and even stock some of them exclusively.

THOUQI

What’s the one piece of jewellery every woman should own?

Instead of jewellery I would say the Panthere de Cartier watch.

What about clothing?

A black suit.

Are there any areas of the site that are particularly popular with customers or not so popular?

Homeware is growing very fast, there is a real demand around gifted products that have an Arabic touch.

GHAIN GHADA

What do the buyers look for when selecting designs for the site?

We look at the collection, the finishing, the quality, their communication (social media).

The shoots and editorial content are great – how as a team do you go about compiling that?

We want to make sure that what we display on our website is exactly what our customers will receive. We want to show how beautiful the collections we have are, so we make sure to choose images that deliver this purpose.

BLUE ROUND DISH SCRIPT ON THOUQI.COM

How do you feel about the growing e-commerce market in the region?

Happy to see how fast the e-commerce is growing in our region and excited to see new concepts rising as Thouqi.

What do you think is the future of this market in the next few years?

Regional brands will be seen more and more outside of the Middle East region. I believe that the demand for such designs will be trendy all over the world (NY, Paris, London and more).

What do you love most about your job?

Working with creative people.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

Resist!

What does a designer have to do to catch your eye?

Be consistent in her work. Have a vision, good finishing and be committed.

What are your thoughts on the fashion industry in The Middle East?

The market is a laboratory for anyone interested in Fashion. People are so stylish they impress me sometimes. Anyone would expect some kind of “conservatism,” but it is just the opposite. When I go back to Paris I even find myself telling my friends that people are getting much more stylish than some of them.

Who are your personal favourite designers both locally and internationally?

Locally: Haa Designs, AKStheLabel, 43Artisans. Internationally: Pheobe Philo for Celine, The Olsens for The Row and APC.

What would we find you doing on the weekend?

Spending time with my daughter and husband, catching up with friends and shooting sometimes.

Where is your favourite place to travel?

My city Paris, to visit my family and friends.

Etro has become synonymous with Paisley prints over the years, and now there is an exhibition in place to celebrate this harmonious pairing. Etro is an organic experience, with each garment and accessory the result of a satisfied curiosity, and an understanding of feelings.

It is the result of an anthropological research and it implies a visionary and conscious point of view. The adventure begins with the production of textiles and evolves with the creation of a fashion style with a strong identity.

The Paisley motif – the date palm sprout, “The Tree of Life”, originating from Mesopotamia and recognized as a symbol of fertility and longevity – becomes a pillar of Etro’s entire work, thus making it unique. To celebrate this motif Etro chose the Museum of Cultures in Milan.  This particular location shares the same spirit as the brand: the vocation for nomadism and an open attitude towards the wonders of the world.

The Museum of Cultures will host Generation Paisley, an exhibition launched on 22nd September 2018. The exhibition is both imaginative and articulate: the leafy branches of a giant tree welcome the visitors, while a sort of dorsal spine will spiral through the five rooms uninterrupted, overcoming boundaries, building an analogic and stylistic path comprised of 50 outfits from the different collections of the Etro archive.

Amidst walls covered in fabrics, and paintings, mirror reflections multiply and amplify the prints, while digital and three-dimensional effects immerse visitors in an atmosphere that is estranging and familiar at the same time. An emotional kaleidoscope underlines how for Etro the cultural element is the founding principle and fashion is existential sensibility and content, not just form.

Many items on display belong to the personal collections of members of the Etro family. Great travellers and intellectuals, each one of them is animated by a different passion. In complete harmony with the museum, Etro has also imagined possible interactions between the garments and the precious objects already present in the museum’s collection, thus constructing a productive dialogue that symbolically erases boundaries, giving space to sensibility and the heart.

The Generation Paisley exhibition runs until October 14. Located at the Museum of Cultures, Milan.

Party-ready gowns, sparkling separates and elegant dresses make for a glamorous AW18 collection from Jean-Louis Sabaji.

Cyber-couture plunge gown in ultra reflective tech-taffeta and metallic tulle, encrusted with laser-cut holographic plexi.

Black luxe latex and metallic blue lamé asymmetrical halter dress.

LEFT IMAGE:

White silk-crêpe off-shoulder gown and detachable overskirt with layered 3D handcrafted plumes in crêpe and crin with crystal drop detailing.

RIGHT IMAGE:

Liquid gazaar draped mini-dress, erupting in a scallop-shelled bustle in PVC, tulle and structured netting.

Modelled by activist Doina Ciobanu.

Fashion Director: Mohieb Dahabieh

Photographer: Patrick Sawaya

Makeup: Yvonne Hatem

Hair: Ribal Balan for Tony El-Mendelek

As iconic designer Ralph Lauren celebrates fifty years in fashion, we reflect on how he built his empire and became the name in American style.

This year Ralph Lauren celebrates fifty years in the fashion industry. One of the longest careers for any living designer, Lauren has been an integral part of fashion in his home country of America, but also throughout the world.

The designer began his five decades-long career creating neckties, and went on to build a global business with a style that has become iconic. Known for his impeccable tailoring, it its perhaps Lauren that we must thank for creating the female suit and making it acceptable in today’s society.

While Lauren stepped down as CEO of the brand in 2015 he still holds the position of Executive Chairmen and Chief Creative Officer and is heavily involved in all aspects of the brand including the ready-to-wear collections that are presented bi-annually in New York.

He celebrated this milestone achievement with a celebratory show in New York Last month, which was attended by some of his closest friends, family and colleagues. An emotional show and celebration that saw the likes of Anna Wintour, Diane Von Furstenberg, Blake Lively, Hilary Clinton, Pierce Brosnan, Jessica Chastain, Oprah, Kanye West – the diverse list goes on – in attendance.

The collection was overwhelmingly received and it was a new direction for Lauren. This collection covered many genres – sporty, tailoring, smart, casual, all the elements were rolled into one to create something unique and original. Casual and sporty pieces were mixed with formal wear and layering was an integral part of the design.

The celebrations continued in Central park after the show, which saw an emotional Lauren thanking his friends and family for their support over the past five decades.

In 1967 Ralph Lauren designed his first range of men’s ties at just 28 years old. While working for tie manufacture Beau Brummel the company’s president let him pursue his dream of starting his own line. He worked out of a single drawer from the showroom at The Empire State Building in New York, and hand delivered all of his creations to buyers in the city.

He created his first line of menswear in 1968 and with hard work and a lot of persistence, his designs were taken on by Bloomingdale’s in 1969. They stocked his collection exclusively, making it the first time the department store had given a designer their own store within a store. After great success Ralph Lauren Corporation was launched in 1971 – beginning with a collection of tailored shirts for women.

A full women’s collection was launched the following year. Within a year Lauren opened his first standalone store in Beverly Hills and he launched the iconic POLO Ralph Lauren logo – making the label synonymous with preppy American style.

Lauren’s brand grew very quickly and by 1981 he had ventured across the globe to open two stores in London. Inspired by his love of sports Lauren developed his line with a strong focus on polo playing but he also became known for his impeccable tailoring for both men and women. By the early nineties Lauren had over ten lines including Polo Sport, Lauren Ralph Lauren and Ralph Lauren Purple as well as a huge fragrance business and Ralph Lauren home. The designer went from strength to strength as he became a household name.

In 2005 it was announced that Stefan Larsson would replace Ralph Lauren as the company’s CEO but Ralph Lauren continued to hold the position of Executive Chairman and Chief Creative Officer. Larsson was replaced two years later by Patrice Louvet and Lauren continues even to today to play a significant role in the creativity and strategy of his company. He celebrated his fifty year millstone not only with the collection but also with a book about his life and career. Ralph Lauren: 50 Years of Fashion highlights some of his greatest moments in the industry.

TIMELINE OF RALPH LAUREN CORPORATION

1967: Ralph Lauren designs men’s ties while working for a men’s suit manufacturer.

1968: Lauren designs his first menswear collection which is then sold exclusively at Bloomimgdale’s, New York.

1971: Ralph Lauren Corporation was launched.

1974: Ralph Lauren dresses the male cast of the film Great Gatsby. The cast wore pieces from the POLO

Ralph Lauren line and the designer customer-made the pink suit worn by Robert Redford.

1977: The iconic Ralph Lauren Polo shirt launched in a selection of colours.

1978: Ralph Lauren fragrances were unveiled and sold exclusively at Bloomingdale’s. there were two fragrances – Lauren for women and Polo for men.

1981: The company went international for the first time, opening two stores in London.

1986: Ralph Lauren opens his first flagship store on New York’s Madison Avenue.

1997: Ralph Lauren Corporation becomes a publicly traded company on the New York Stock Exchange.

1999: The first Ralph Lauren restaurant was opened in Chicago.

2000: Ralph Lauren corporation launched its website and online shopping facilities.

2008: Ralph Lauren becomes the outfitter for the American Olympic team.

2015: Stefan Larsson replaced Ralph Lauren as the company’s CEO but Ralph Lauren continued to hold the position of Executive Chairman and Chief Creative Officer.

2017: Larsson was replaced by Patrice Louvet who took up the position of President and CEO.

2018: Ralph Lauren celebrates fifty years in the industry.

To mark the reopening of the Dubai Mall Fine Jewelry boutique this month, Chanel will present a newly-launched exclusive limited edition version of the CODE COCO watch.

The women’s piece will be in black ceramic with a full paved dial, and will be available exclusively only at the Dubai Mall boutique. The watch will be able to be purchased at this one boutique for a year before launching in other stores around the world. This exclusive piece will come in a elegant timepiece.

The CODE COCO in black ceramic was launched at the Ritz Paris by Alice Dellal, Soo Joo Park, Nozomi Iijima and Alma Jodorowsky who came together to present this limited edition piece.

At first glance this watch is more a piece of jewellery, inspired by the clasp of the 2.55 bag and it’s fabric, the watch strap reflects the bag’s quilted texture. As its wearing discovers these aspects the watch is decoded, as a jewel and a timepieces – hence the name CODE COCO.

This watch closes with a click, much like the 2.55 bag and the dial resembles the bag’s fastening. The CODE COCO features one princess cut diamond, and black lacquered dials. Or 52 brilliant-cut diamonds. The dials move with high precision quartz movement. The steel and black ceramic bracelet is incredibly light and moves seamlessly with the wrist. The black ceramic material is a first for Chanel watchmaking. This watch carries the ever-renewing codes of Chanel and the latest update chic and understated.

The CODE COCO in black ceramic is an exclusive pre-launch version of the watch, available exclusively at the Dubai Mall fine jewellery and watches boutique for one year.

Cindy Chao does not consider herself to be a jeweller – instead she would define herself as an artist – one that is simply creating jewels rather than art or sculptures. And it is with this unique ideology that the Taiwanese creator founded her jewellery house Cindy Chao: The Art Jewel.

Growing up in a family of sculptures Cindy Chao was used to being around creative influences and this inspired her from a young age. Knowing that she always wanted to be an artist of some sort, Cindy studied in New York before travelling back to her home country to launch her jewellery house in 2004. Cindy has an unusual technique of creating 3D wax moulds of her designs rather than sketches, something she believes allows for more accuracy and detail in her designs.

Cindy’s fine jewellery collections are highly sought after at auctions around the world and are often sold for extravagant amounts of money. In 2009, De Beers Forevermark Cindy Chao was one of the twelve chosen artists to create a jewellery pieces for the launch of its Precious Collection. Chao created the Majestic Beauty Fan – a piece containing 2,399 diamonds and weighing a total of 310.27 carats. The piece is now featured in exhibitions around the world.

Cindy Chao’s Black Label Masterpieces use some of the rarest gemstones in the world. Combined with Chao’s extravagant designs the Black Label Masterpieces are limited edition pieces that can only be viewed at exhibitions or private events. They are some of the most unique jewellery creations in the world.

Here Cindy discusses her unique approach to jewellery design and how as a female businesswoman she is taking her brand to the next level.

What do you want everyone to know about your brand?

I believe that every piece of fine jewellery should be a miniature work of art. The core philosophy of Cindy Chao The Art Jewel is to break boundaries between jewellery and art, thereby redefining how jewellery pieces may be perceived and appreciated.

Your designs are very extravagant – how do you even begin to come up with the ideas?

I believe that inspiration is an accumulation of one’s life experience, sensibility and passion. As an artist and a global traveller, I believe that art is something powerful that can break down the barriers of religion, race, nationality, age, culture, etc. The energies I invest in my artworks can be said to originate from this. So instead of finding inspiration purposely, I let inspiration come to me at however tiny moment in my life. The ocean’s mesmerising blue and green colours that greeted my eyes in a snorkelling expedition in Phuket (this experience inspired my Aquatic collection!); the splendid cliffs at sunset I witnessed in an olive yard in Majorca; the magnificently pure white snow in Gstaad… These experiences fulfilled my mind, and like chemical reactions they motivate my design when the moment comes.

How do you think your childhood inspired you for what you do today?

Creating art jewels, for me, is a continuation of my family heritage. As a child, I was surrounded by creativity and most of my days were spent with two masters. My grandfather was a noted architect whose many works are now considered historical monuments. He always took me to the construction sites of his architectures, and therefore I was trained from a young age to see the world in a structural and spatial way. My father was a sculptor. He taught me to take into account each angle, form and expression of what I observe, and to transform observations into well-rounded creations.

If you weren’t working with jewellery what would you do?

When I was young, I aspired to be an architect like my grandfather. Later when I decided to study in New York, I wanted to study architecture as well. It was my mother who gave me a push then to use my creative talent into a profession that she found more feminine. So instead of stones and timber, I chose precious gemstones and metals. To my surprise, I discovered that architecture and jewellery share similar characters. Colours, structure, layers, space, light, curves and turns… these are the terms I grew up familiar with which are also used to describe different elements in the world of jewellery. They bring me fascination again and again, and I cannot help but immerse myself in this three-dimensional art of jewellery. Most importantly, when I learnt about the ancient wax sculpting technique, I realized how I could extend my passion for architecture to jewellery design. The technique allowed me to make miniature sculptures in the same way architects design buildings. Although the media of my expressions are different from my father’s and my grandfather’s, the spirit is one and the same, and the family legacy is passed on.

What do you think makes your approach to jewellery unique?

My jewellery pieces are organic, sculptural and architectural. This is made possible thanks to the wax sculpting technique. This traditional artisan skill widespread in Europe in the 18th-19th centuries allows me to envision my final work on a one-to-one real size wax model in three-dimension and, most importantly, to meticulously perfect every inch of the contour, adding soft and elegant touch to my jewels. On the wax, I can structure the piece in detail from every angle, giving it the rich depth and texture that a simple design sketch could never contain. Through this process I am able to encapsulate my thoughts, my emotions and life stories into my creation. In the end, I believe these are the “soft” elements that continue to make my creations unique.

You consider yourself an artist rather than a jeweller – how do you think the two differ and what is the difference between a piece of jewellery and a work of art?

One key difference between jewellery design versus other forms of creation, such as a painting or sculpture, is that the first uses various precious materials while maintaining the functionality of the piece. There is a physical interaction between the jewellery and the wearer. A good jewellery design must therefore compliment the wearer and become an extension of the body and personality. If the piece is meant to be worn as a necklace, a jewellery designer must know the ins and outs of the human neckline. Design and weight are highly considered in this instance; the necklace is tested on various models during the creative process to study how the necklace will be crafted to lay beautifully on the neckline and to provide the most comfortable form of wear. There is however an additional characteristics that are unique in Cindy Chao The Art Jewel: it blurs the lines between jewellery as an adornment and as fine art, building up the bridge between the two with my genuine emotions. Such emotions also connect the wearer of my jewels and me as an artist. In my works, my collectors are able to feel the energies I have invested and witness the exquisite craftsmanship by which the jewels were realized. I consider such intimate sentiments shared by both the creator and the collectors to be the value of art. Such sentiments make my jewellery pieces transcend their function and become artworks.

It fuses the best of two worlds – functionality and aesthetics. Not only do I lean towards the wearability of an object, but also focus on emotional connections. All of my creations are an extension of myself. They materialize my soul and illustrate the world we live in.

What rules should a person follow when choosing the right piece of jewellery for them?

As a woman and a creator, I would always prefer for a woman to collect the pieces that she loves the best. This is because every individual is unique, and I believe that the jewel she adores the most will suit her the best. But jewellery buyers now are not women only. In fact, 30% of our clients are men. Regardless of their gender, our clients come to us for a wide range of reasons. Some come to complete their attire for a special occasion while others look for personalised design for gems they received from their parents. Some collectors search for pieces with larger stones while others prefer something with more artistry. Some are even interested in our Art Jewels for the purpose of asset management. When we are in contact with our clients, we always make it a priority to understand their needs so as to provide them with the most suitable suggestion.

What’s your favourite stone?

My favourite gemstone is definitely emerald. I enjoy going outside immersing myself in the beauty of nature. If I have to illustrate nature using a single colour, I will choose green. Emerald’s vibrant green always brings me fascination. Its garden-like inclusion, which is never the same in any two pieces, gives me endless imagination of the Nature’s fathomless power and wonder. This is why I often use emerald as the star gemstone in my Black Label Masterpieces every year.

What can you tell us about the production process?

My design process is laborious but extremely rewarding, as we are involved in all the details from design, wax moulding, setting, to the final production. The typical design process starts first with my inspiration, and then I hand-carve and sculpt the wax model. The benefit of wax sculpting is I can carve the curves, the undulations, layers and the silhouette that I want my pieces to take form. On the wax, I can structure the piece in detail from every angle, giving it the rich depth that a simple design sketch could never contain.Once the wax models are completed, we create sketches to help the diamond setters and master craftsmen visualise the colouration of the final art jewel. We also have an internal team of certified gemologists selecting diamonds and gemstones for the art jewels.

The wax models, sketches, and selected diamonds and gemstones would then be sent to our exclusive ateliers in Europe. The master craftsmen transform the wax into gold, silver or titanium, spending months to years setting thousands of gemstones. We are very fortunate to work with these master craftsmen who have the experience and technique to bring my creations to the next level; they are also very excited to be working with me because my creations challenge them to think outside the box of this century-old craft. I travel to Geneva and France to visit the ateliers almost every other two to three weeks. It is very important that I be there, to see and feel the pieces during the process, and brainstorm with the craftsmen– it is very rewarding to feed off of each other’s energy and ideas, and bring forth the beautiful works of art.

How long can one piece of jewellery take to make?

Given the long crafting process, my work may take up to two and a half years from conception to completion. But chances are that much longer is required in order to create a jewellery piece that is of true creativity. This is the case of a custom-made piece, the Peony Brooch, which was the fruition of eight years’ efforts. A collector came to me 10 years ago with a Ruby necklace that her family had passed to her. She asked for a new design because she found it too traditional and old-fashioned. I spent quite a long time thinking about possible patterns before finally sending her a proposal. During the crafting, I modified the design over and over again just trying to make the artwork truly original. Instead of completing the work within two years as promised, I ended up handing in the work after eight years’ trials and retrials. Needless to say, the final outcome differs drastically from the original design.

Tell us about the Black Label pieces – what makes them so special?

The Black Label Masterpieces are the most prestigious and exclusive creations that bear the Cindy Chao The Art Jewel name. Now, only 12 to 18 pieces are created annually, and each are named, numbered and dated. These modern masterpieces are unveiled once a year through invitation-only exhibitions, and are highly prized by connoisseurs and collectors. There are two elements involved in making the Black Label Masterpieces so special. I only use the exceptional precious gemstones, sometimes of substantial carat-weight, as main materials: diamonds, rubies, sapphires or emerald. These gems are so rare (not to mention their large size) that their inherent value is self-evident. Beyond the value of the stones and the metal from which they are made, there is an additional element which makes my Black Label Masterpieces outstanding: craftsmanship. Craftsmanship is human genius that brings inorganic materials to life. It is all about talent and skills that transforms abstract imagination to concrete forms.

My 2009 Black Label Masterpiece I “Royal Butterfly” for example, is now inducted at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History. The museum stated on the induction ceremony that displaying my jewel ensures generations to come may enjoy the colours, gems, and craftsmanship of this timeless piece. This is the essence and spirit of my work. Such timeless quality makes my Black Label Masterpieces uniquely one-of-a-kind.

How do you go about sourcing stones, where do you source them?

We have formed longstanding relationships with all of our suppliers from the world’s major mines, and are therefore able to acquire the opportunity to present exceptional gemstones to our clients.

What are you working on right now?

2019 will be the 15th anniversary of Cindy Chao The Art Jewel, therefore a chronological milestone for the brand. We are planning a series of worldwide events and exhibitions for the coming year. One highlight will be the unveiling of the 2019 Black Label Masterpieces in Europe. I believe it will be another rewarding year.

Can we expect to see more of you in the Middle East?

Certainly. We hold private exhibitions in Middle East regularly once a year. Last year, we held a private viewing session in Dubai following our Paris Haute Couture Exhibition and received very positive feedback from discerning collectors. We are making efforts to visit the Middle East on a more frequent base.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given?

When I started my career, my father gave a word that I still keep in my mind: “Cindy, you must remember: To achieve true art, you must be able to endure solitude and adversity; you must have a strong mind and grit to stay focused and never give up. It may sound cliché but I really believe that diligence and perseverance are the two keys to success. When you put all your efforts into every single step of a project and challenge yourself to the utmost in every detail, eventually you will find yourself in a powerful yet peaceful state of perfection. I call it the power of diligence and perseverance.

Where do you go when you want to switch off?

I travel. I particularly like to visit Florence and Rome, where I always marvel at statues around the cities depicting ancient sages.

How would you define luxury?

I define luxury as being able to have time for the things I have passion for, and to be able to devote all the time I desire to this passion. I enjoy my luxurious freedom to dream, I enjoy personal time to create art, and I enjoy the luxury of traveling.

The latest offerings from Louis Vuitton’s watches and fine jewellery collections.

STAR BLOSSOM

Louis Vuitton’s Star Blossom range will bring a fresh look to your jewellery box. The light minimalist, easy-to-wear collection celebrates the classic Monogram flower, as originally created by George Vuitton in 1896.  A collection that is perfect for everyday wear, Star Blossom comprises of rose gold and diamonds paired with the brand’s legendary motif. The Monogram flower features four petals – the sign of a lucky charm. This elegant motif which is used throughout many of the House’s products and has become synonymous with the brand; it is featured on pendants, earrings, rings and bracelets for this feminine jewellery collection.

There is also a Star Blossom watch. This ladylike timepiece features the Monogram motif on the centre of the dial and is created in a feminine rose gold with diamonds to make it an extra special piece. The watch can be easily worn together with the jewellery range, layered to create a modern look.

The collection is designed in such a way that is can be stacked and layered elegantly – allowing each woman to wear it individually in a way that suits her style and personality. These delicate pieces can be worn from day to night.The pieces come in a variety of styles, depending on a the woman’s choice – including rose gold with diamonds, white gold or yellow gold – worn together the three colours create a soft bohemian look that is very popular.

TAMBOUR

Louis Vuitton’s iconic Tambour watch comes in many versions and colours.  One of the most iconic is perhaps the All Black. Created in 2002, the All Black, which comes in versions for men and women, is entirely matte black in colour including the buckle, strap and dial.

ALL BLACK

This All Black concept has a new look with a black PVD and pink gold version for women. The watch brings a new adaption to the classic Tambour. The ladies version of this classic piece is adorned with the Monogram Flower motif which is placed centrally on the watch’s dial. The hour markers are single diamonds and the numerals are visible in rose gold. The watch features interchangeable straps fitted with Louis Vuitton’s patented system that does not require the use of tools. The timepiece features a stainless steel case with glossy PVD coating, and is available in diameters of 28, 34 and 39.5mm. It is water resistant up to 100 metres.

ALL BLACK AND GOLD

The All Black and Gold Concept has a new design featuring a 46mm Tambour Chronographe Automatique. A matte black face is brought to life with touches of pink gold, that aren’t too feminine but create just enough elegance. The face features golden hour markers and Arabic numerals. Positioned at the 12 o’clock point is the V for Vuitton, designed by Gaston-Louis Vuitton and used for the first time on the Steamer bag in 1901. The All Black and Gold features a stainless steel case with matte black PVD coating, horns, crown and push pieces in 18 carat pink gold. The black matte dial contrasts with the pink gold coloured hour markers and semi-skeleton hands. The interchangeable straps include a coal black alligator. The watch is also water-resistant up to 100 metres.

Shooting Porté – Tambour All Black

Dior high jewellery presents new additions to its Tête De Mort collection, each symbolising a different state of mind.

Dior presents the Tête de mort jewellery collection. Inspired by Christian Dior’s love for live and motto to “do it with passion! Live with passion,” Tête de mort reiterates the idea of living life to the fullest. In 2013, the Tête de mort high jewellery collection adopted this motto, and presented a collection that offered pieces with sparkling, delicately carved gems.

These unique pieces pushed the limits of what the Dior ateliers could do with a fine attention to detail and intricate designs.

This year, Dior introduces six new Tête de mort pieces – three rings, and three necklaces. The details and layers of these pieces need to be closely examined to understand their true beauty. Upon close observation, one discovers their uniqueness.

The piece in yellow gold and amethyst for example, is decorated with tiny cloves in tsavorite garnets, a nod to one of Christian Dior’s favourite lucky charms. While the piece in white gold and blue chalcedony, is adorned with a crown in lily of the valley; one of the Haute Couture designer’s favourite flowers. So much so that he had a habit of wearing it as a boutonniere or adding it into the hems of his Haute Couture dresses.

The choices of colour of these jewels are no coincidence, each shade symbolises a state of mind. Strength is characterized by the deep blue of chalcedony; the powdery rose of quartz signifies peach, and the delicate violet of amethysts represents balance. These particular stones were selected for this naturally pastel hues, they were then hand-carved to reveal their minute details and undeniable elegance. The interplay of colours creates a colourful yet soft and feminine high jewellery collection.

Middle Eastern born jeweller Lana Al Kamal uses her experience as an architect to create unique jewellery designs.

Lana Al Kamal was born in Jeddah to Syrian parents and has spent much of her adult life living in Dubai. It’s true to say she has experienced much of what the Middle East has to offer and this was one of the driving forces for launching her fine jewellery brand last year.

Lana originally worked as an architect and interior designer before turning her hand to jewellery design and opening Lana Al Kamal Jewellery in 2017. Her debut collection Leaves of Joy has so far received great positive feedback. The thirteen piece 18 carat gold collection wash hand sketched and painted in water colours by Lana, who is involved in every stage of the production process. All of the pieces are produced and made in Saudi Arabia by one of the country’s largest jewellery manufacturers. No two pieces are the same, produced by hand in very limited quantities, the delicate jewellery offers something unique and exclusive.

As she plans to launch her second collection, Lana Al Kamal shares her thoughts on business architecture in the region she grew up in.

Tell us how your upbringing and heritage influenced what you do today.

Each one of the cities I lived in inspired me somehow. Jeddah my birth place, refined my childhood with love, glamour and sweet memories, my hometown Aleppo built my character with classics and set my taste with the surrounding beauty. Finally absorbing the levels of success Dubai has achieved, inspired me as a woman, to follow my passion and reach my dreams.

What are the similarities you see between architecture and jewellery design?

They both begin with a simple idea and inspiration that evolves into sketch, putting your imagination down onto paper, followed by a long process of developing the detail and choosing the materials. Finally the exciting part – bringing it to life! Also I think both jewellery and architecture can hugely influence and inspire each other.

You launched your debut collection earlier this year – what can we expect to see next?

I’m working now on a capsule collection of bangles, wait for it, it will be something special.

What has been the feedback from your first collection so far?

I have been really grateful to receive amazing feedback so far. People really tend to notice the finishing of the product, I’m glad as I pride myself on quality and attention to details. The uniqueness is also something they comment on, I think because I opt for a less trend led approach, so my pieces are different to what everyone else is wearing.

What for you is the most iconic piece of jewellery in history?

There is so many iconic pieces of jewellery in history, But Spoonmaker’s diamond, in the Topkapi Palace Museum also known as the Kasikci, is one of the breathtaking pieces of jewellery I have ever come across. It’s an 86-carat pear-shape, surrounded by a double-row of 49 Old Mine cut diamonds

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What one piece of jewellery should everyone have in her lifetime?

A diamond ring and a classic diamond tennis bracelet.

What jewellery trends are interesting you at the moment?

This fall/winter bigger seems to be better. Statement necklaces and bangles. Hoop earrings will continue for this season too.

Are you a ‘one piece at a time’ woman or someone who likes to stack a number of pieces of jewellery?

I believe in mix and match, which is the entire ethos of the current collection. You can stack and layer each piece. I believe the secret will be always with placement and positioning of each piece, not the quantity.

You are a relatively new brand – what challenges do you face when starting a business?

Lots of challenges, Dubai is incredibly supportive of new home-grown talent but there isn’t the retail network or sales channels to always support it.  The most important thing is to keep going, facing problems with huge amounts of faith. Not everything is easy, as the saying goes “easy come, easy go.”

Where do you look for inspiration?

Mostly through the different cities I visit. Architecture, parks, museums and the people. I get inspired all the time by the most simplistic beauty surrounding us.

When you really need to get on with work where do you go?

Definitely a peaceful place with few people and a good coffee.

What’s you most treasured piece of jewellery?

My engagement ring, because it will always be the symbol of endless love, it’s so sentimental. It has mine and husband initials and the date of our engagement.

How do you think jewellery can empower women?

I truly believe it is the sense of sentiment jewellery gives a women. Whether it be the colour of a stone you connect with, something that has emotional value, or just a piece that compliments and takes an outfit to the next level. Like clothing or your hairstyle for example, jewellery can tell a women’s story and give an insight into who she is. My jewellery inherited by my mum has special memories and gives me the courage to be powerful and loving like her, plus it looks great and gives me confidence.

Lana’s top 5 tips for choosing the right piece of jewellery

Keep it as simple and elegant as possible but with a statement piece that will shine through.

Choose a piece of jewellery that reflects your personality, special enough to tell the story of the woman you choose to be.

Always invest in high quality pieces that will hold their value over time.

Buy something you would wear. If you are an every day jewellery person buy strong simple pieces. If you are  more of an occasional jewellery person buy a statement piece with a precious coloured stone that will empower your look, and catch the eye.

Take good care of your jewellery, invest even in jewellery boxes, keep them away from water and dust, and try not sleep with your jewellery on.

This autumn Van Cleef & Arpels unveils two ranges of bracelets as part of its Perlée Collection. The Perlée collection, which was first designed in 2008, used hand-polished unique, gleaming gold beads to create elegant pieces of jewellery.

Diamonds are selected according to the strictest gemological criteria to ensure they sparkle with intensity thanks to an openwork gold structure that allows light to pass through.

DAZZLING COLOURS

Dazzling Colours is a range of three elegant bracelets that accentuates hard stones and diamonds, and revives the tradition of golden beads.

Taking on a similar concept to the Maison’s Between the Finger ring, this range of bracelets in yellow, white and pink gold which are complemented with delicate shimmering beads that enhance the joyful spirit of the collection. Diamonds and cabochons of hard stones are places opposite an original shank for a modern design.

The yellow gold bracelet is complemented by the deep green of malachite, white gold is finished with the glow of turquoise, while the pink gold features a pink carnelian stone. Each of the three bracelets is dazzled with delicately cut diamonds. The hard stones meet the Maison’s stringiest selection criteria ensuring they have the deepest colours.

SPARKLING RIBBONS

The Sparkling Ribbons bracelets are designed to complement the Perlée diamonds creation. The three delicate bracelets in white, pink and yellow gold include a row of round diamonds surrounded by two rows of gold beads.

These bracelets are designed to be worn alone or in twos or three, stacking and blending the colours together and complementing each other.

Both ranges of bracelets are the perfect evening piece to be worn around the wrist in a sparkling cascade. Worn with the other pieces in the Perlée Collection these bracelets share the same interplay between materials and golden beads.

Avaiable at Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques.

This luxury boutique hotel brings Italian flair to the heart of the British capital.

The Baglioni Hotel London is ideally situated in the heart of Kensington. Overlooking the prestigious Kensington Palace, which is now home to Prince Harry and Meghan Markle as well as their in laws the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge.

This stunning setting is even more beautiful when the sun is shining, as it has been in London of late. The modest hotel features 67 spacious rooms and suites, with the smaller property offering a more personal service to each of its guests with a warm welcome service and even a hotel Maserati to chauffer guests around the city if they wish.

With the original idea of creating a home from home for Italians in London The Baglioni Hotel was created in the vision of Roberto Polito; his son Guido, who is now CEO of Baglioni moved to London from Italy after graduating from University. Roberto needed somewhere to stay when visiting his son in the city, and he wanted to create something completely different from what was on offer in the city at that time, and so Bagloni Hotel London was born, interpreting Italian style in a more contemporary way and combining that with the exclusivity of London’s Kensington. The hotel recreates the homely atmosphere of Italian residence, but offers five-star hotel service to its guests.

ROOMS

With the ambition to create a ‘second home’ for its guests, the hotel’s 67 rooms are charming and comforting. There is no minimalist décor at The Baglioni, in fact quite the opposite with intricate designs, fireplaces, gold painted bathrooms and fireplaces. These details are complemented with neutral walls and furnishings using the highest quality materials. The largest of the rooms is The Royal Suite. Located on the second floor, this three-bedroom suite features two living rooms and offers stunning views of Hyde Park.

SPA & WELLNESS

The Baglioni spa was recently redesigned by Italian architects and interior designers Rebosio+Spagnulo. With gold décor, this hidden gem is the ultimate in luxury. The spa is open to both in-house and walk-in guests and features three treatment rooms and a Turkish bath. All treatments are carried out using Natura Bissé products.

FOOD & DRINK

While the hotel is relatively small, the restaurant has a big reputation as one of the city’s must-stop spots for Italian cuisine with the gastronomic experience being one of the highlights of the property. The hotel restaurant on the ground floor features a terrace overlooking Kensington Gardens. The restaurant is very proud of its Afternoon Tea With a Twist which is a must-try if you have time – combining the classic British tradition with Italian flair. The dinner and evening menu includes fine dining dishes that celebrate the best Italian ingredients.

Rooms at Baglioni Hotel London, are available from AED1,289 per night on a bed and breakfast basis, for booking and further information please visit www.baglionihotels.com

The latest fragrance from the Bvlgari man collection finds its place in the world with a campaign shot in the UAE.

Bvlgari presents Man Wood Essence, it’s latest fragrance for men blending intense woody notes with bright citrus accents. This exhilarating fragrance was created by Master Perfumer Alberto Morilla and smoothly blends three bold woody tones to create a refreshing powerful scent.

With a campaign shot in Dubai and featuring Canadian actor Nick Bateman, Bvlgari captured the essence of the fragrance which highlights the links between nature and the city. Inspired by trees – nature’s skyscrapers, Man Wood Essence combines natural energy with the energy of a city and that is embodied in a man.

 

“This marvellous woody fragrance is infused with very powerful energy,” says Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas.

The fragrance opens with a spark of citrus and spice – Italian citrus combines with an unexpected note of coriander for a spark or fiery adventure. The second note is Cypress Wood and Haitian Vetver Essence, adding a robust, masculine scent. And the final notes of Cedar Wood, Ambergris and Benzoin add an intense smoky impact for the feeling of strength and power.

Founder Hannah Ransjo prides herself on keeping her company HALM local and producing the best quality luxury leather pieces.

HALM is a luxury leather handbag brand based in the UAE. It was originally founded as an aspirational handbag brand to celebrate  the  authentic beauty of genuine, full grain leather and its charming  characteristics. This relatively young brand is quickly growing momentum both in the region and internationally thanks to its recently launched e-commerce platform. Swedish born founder and Creative Director Hanna Ransjo prides herself on only using the best quality leather and all of her products are designed and tested in Dubai.

This summer HALM launched ETHOS by HALM, a range of capsule pieces that are 100 per cent designed, manufactured and produced in Dubai. A more playful range of bags, ETHOS pieces will be released throughout the year with the first piece being the Bento Bag Pack. The main aim of the collection is to create practical pieces that have a timeless elegance to them while are still on trend. A&E spoke to Founder and Creative Director Hanna Ransjo about the future of this young brand.

You are from Sweden but your brand is based in the UAE – how did this come about?

Having lived in Dubai for many years, my love and loyalty to what feels like my adopted home country made it natural to develop HALM here, rather than in Italy, Paris, or London for example. Dubai and the UAE are such inspirational and supportive places to be. The essence of HALM is here. I could not have done this elsewhere and wouldn’t have wanted to.

My Scandinavian inheritance of functional, minimalistic and paired back designs is combined with the daily inspiration from Dubai and the Middle Eastern region: its exquisitely rich cultural diversity, the wonderful individuality of the Arabic women.

Both places have each their own distinct charm and specificities, their mix inevitably leads to interesting, unusual yet sleek and modern designs.

What do you think makes HALM different from other leather bag brands?

What gives our designs their uniqueness is their quality, authenticity and rarity.

We focus in using the highest quality whole leathers and materials, including bull nubuck for its natural smooth velvety touch. When worn, the leather evolves, taking on different shades over time. This charming characteristic of natural hides makes each of our bags truly unique.

This rarity factor is amplified by the fact that we produce each specific silhouette and colourway in very limited editions. When receiving their HALM bag, our customers can find on the product certificate its own limited edition number, and can be certain that only a handful of people will own the same.

Who is the HALM customer?

The HALM customer is discerning, and able to recognize and appreciate quality and value. Curious and open minded, this customer loves art and design,  and  seeks rare and unique pieces. Strong and self-confident, this customer enjoys and supports emerging trends. This customer wants a timeless bag and a classic design, to cherish year after year.

Why do you think being in the UAE is important for your company?

One of the beautiful aspects of living in Dubai is you mingle and network with such a variety of people. Dubai is so tolerant, open minded and accepting of various styles. It’s a colourful, vibrant, inspiring and culturally rich city, so it’s definitely an exciting place to be creative.

I also love the fact that there is so much serious investment and interest in the emerging fashion market here. The government is putting in so much effort and support into developing the art, fashion and design scene: in Abu Dhabi with everything from the Louvre to interesting continuous art and music events, and in Dubai with D3, Fashion Forward, Art Dubai, Design Week, Al Serkal Avenue, Galleries in DIFC.

What can you tell us about the ETHOS collection?

The HALM Collection is fully designed, prototyped, sampled in our Dubai D3 Design Studio as well as in our own Atelier. Production is then taken to Italy by traditional craftsmen.

Our new line, ETHOS by HALM, launching this summer, is not only designed but also 100% made in UAE.

It is a more spontaneous and playful line, consisting in the release of very limited edition capsule collections, some of which will be embellished with work from artisans from the region and elsewhere, to create unique pieces of wearable art; keeping at heart the HALM core standards of exquisite natural leathers, signature bespoke components and premium quality.

The whole design process takes place in Dubai – did that throw up and challenges?

On the contrary, a great asset to the HALM design process lies in our Dubai based Atelier. It allows us to experiment with design ideas, and develop prototypes on a daily basis with a completely hands-on approach, together with our experienced and talented master cutter, Musthafa.

Initial inspiration, sketching, development, specifications and technical drawings, production of prototypes and further samples are all carefully considered and executed here.

What can you tell us about the artists your worked with to produce these bags?

The first ETHOS by HALM collection has been assembled by extremely skilled UAE artisans. Collaborating with artists is beautiful as it associates their personal flair and style, with our HALM values and standards of quality and attention to detail. We can say that we are also working on a future project for ETHOS by HALM involving macramé work, Sami art, with influences from northern areas, Scandinavian Lapland to inspiration from South Africa… watch this space.

Your new Bento Bag Pack can be worn in seven different ways – do you think functionality and versatility are something that is important in bags today?

Versatility and functionality are key for women today: workers, mothers, wives, travellers…  to name a few of their many roles. Their bag is not an ornament, they need to rely on a practical and stylish multi-tasker bag to take them from morning to evening, through travel, meetings, shopping, dinner or unforeseen destinations.

It should be versatile so they can choose its style upon their needs. Our Bento Bag Pack is a transformer bag: changing from a handle bag to a shoulder bag, wearable as crossbody or as backpack – it can adapt to each and every situation.

What is the future for the brand?

For the immediate future, the HALM Collection 1.3, our third collection, is in the making and we are very excited! We are also working on new silhouettes for ETHOS by HALM and for the HALM collection 1.4. To us, releasing a new silhouette is the result of months of drawings, designs, tests, quality control and a double digit number of prototypes! to ensure perfect execution and premium quality, in line with the HALM standards.

To us, success does not lie in speed nor sales growth, or fame. Success for us is staying true to our artistic philosophy, our quality standards, steady development with sustainability in mind, to be respectful and respected.

Would you consider expanding into products other than bags?

Our newest project involving macramé, for ETHOS by HALM, has taken us towards a new territory for HALM; women’s jewellery. At first, the macramé art jewels were only supposed to embellish bags, but it was only a natural progression to diverge towards developing jewellery drawings. Let’s see where that takes us.

How do you divide the business duties between the team?

We are actually a core team of three, mostly working collaboratively, sometimes individually depending on our different and complementing strengths.

As a start-up we do everything ourselves, from making coffee, speaking to suppliers, invoices, IT,  to developing strategies and business plans, or building our e-commerce! We have also recently expanded to two new team members: constituting the incredible and hardworking dedicated HALM team who amaze me every day with their strength and perseverance.

What do you love most about the UAE?

What I love most is that the UAE is a such a culturally rich and diverse area, tolerant in all aspects, open minded to new projects… It is a land of opportunities, where people have the right positive attitude, as well as kindness and flexibility.

What do you think is the future in the UAE?

A bright future is ahead. With such qualities of open-mindedness and positivity, summed with hard & fast work, reactivity and adaptation… anything is possible.

What is a day in your life?

A day in my life goes a hundred miles an hour, involves a million emails, and is full of challenges. But they keep us on our toes and make us learn at every step of the way, therefore we consider it a blessing and privilege, and for that we arrive every day with smiley faces, ready to embrace any opportunity.

How would you define luxury?

Luxury in a material world is of course premium quality, however luxury is also durability, lifetime ownership; lastly luxury is rarity, being the unique owner of a unique product. The ultimate luxury to add is knowing that the product has been assembled from a fair-trade chain from start to finish: sustainability, high quality with high standards.

Last but not least luxury is to wake up healthy and happy every morning, grateful for the day to come, free and in peaceful environment.

Where do you go when you want to get a break from work?

If I have time I will aim for off-piste skiing in Europe or Canada, otherwise my ultimate meditation will be immersion in art exhibitions or cultural events.

The artistic director of Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna, Alessandro Sartori, speaks exclusively to A&E, discussing his vision for the brand that brings his passion to life.

If there’s one man who knows about the men’s luxury fashion industry it’s Alessandro Sartori. The Italian born Artistic Director has spent his entire career working with luxury menswear brands.

He is currently a leading force in the industry, creating timeless yet forward thinking designs for luxury Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna. Since 2016 Sartori has been at the helm of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, with full creative responsibility across all Zegna brands and all creative initiatives,  the first to be appointed for this specific role. Sartori is no stranger to the brand however, as he has previously held the position of creative director of Z ZEGNA; the brand’s diffusion line. Over an 8-year period between 2003 and 2011, Sartori moulded Z ZEGNA into being an international brand, recognized for rewriting the rules of contemporary tailoring as well as continuing to maintain the status of the couture line as the powerhouse it is. After a five year break while working with Berluti, building it’s ready-to-wear business from scratch, Sartori returned to Ermenegildo Zegna.

Alessandro Sartori now has full creative direction of the whole Zegna group and has taken it from strength to strength, implementing his unique take on design, developing a concept that combines traditional tailoring with sportswear; a market that has grown hugely popular over recent years.

For his Winter 18 Couture Collection show, Sartori presented a collection inspired by the Oasi Zegna, the Alpine nature reserve surrounding the Zegna family’s home. The mountain scape setting was covered in artificial snow, and the collection was inspired by mountain sports. After a hugely well-received collection, Sartori followed up recently with the Summer 19 presentation, continuing the theme of sport but adjusting it for the warmer season.

With over 500 monobrand stores, Ermenegildo Zegna is now, by far, the largest luxury menswear brand in the world, so directing this brand into the future is no easy task. Here, Alessandro Sartori talks us through his inspirations for the current collection and vision for the brand going forward.

What can you tell us about the autumn winter 18 collection?

The starting points of this collection were, from one side the inspiration of the Oasi Zegna and the work of  Thomas  Flechtner, from the other side the idea of a juxtapose of beautiful, eclectic, modern, precise and sharp tailoring with deconstructed, light and voluminous outerwear and sportswear. Mostly we did not want to blend the two but thus to create a new style that is this Couture sportswear, or Couture collection.

What was the idea behind the snowy concept of the show?

For the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture FW18 collection we worked around sartorial neologisms, as the title of the show, Snowriting, suggested. Formal merges with informal in a sublime snowy scenario. I am interested in expanding traditional techniques, creating hybrid shapes that are apt for new uses, getting contemporary function out of traditional craft. When an artist arouses my curiosity, I compulsively search to get to know more about him, sometimes going a long way back in time. From time to time, as was the case in the winter 2018 show, this gives rise to joint endeavour: the snowy set for the show was suggested to me by the works of Thomas Flechtner, who designed the set with me.

Who is the Zegna man?

The Ermenegildo Zegna man is a man aware of the quality, the creativity, and the traditions in menswear, at the same time he is young with an international background, confident and mostly he has a modern approach. It’s for this man that we created the Winter 2018 Collection that actually follows what we did last Summer. Also the Summer 2019 will be a continuation of this idea. Basically, we have in mind a modern person who travels, who knows how to style, who has confidence, and likes to wear different garments. So he’s a man on the move, a man that adores fashion but also has a strong confidence which he is expressing through what he is wearing.

The models in your show have a particular look but are also very varied in terms of their culture – what is the thought process behind this?

The 45 looks of this collection show 45 different characters. The style of having one uniform image for a show is a thing of the past and no longer suitable for today’s fashion environment, because you can’t possibly demand all models to have the same standard look. That’s unrealistic.

How do you think the modern man’s needs have changed in recent years when it comes to their wardrobe?

Actually today the thing that changes the most every season and definitely changed a lot in the last two/three years is the styling. Maybe because the self-confidence is growing, maybe because each one of us is watching and is looking at many more images than before, but for sure the styling confidence. Each single customer that we meet in the store, and we meet him when we do our one-to-one appointments, has much developed styling sense. More feeling and sensibility than before. This is also the design direction I propose. More relaxed. More freedom. More creativity.

How do you go about making modern designs that are also timeless?

What I really like to do is build a vision for what men really need and what they want. When you dress someone – even before designing and you start working on the body, working on the measurements – you really see there are things that are perfect on someone that enhance them to their beat, while other things might be beautiful but don’t work that well. I want to enhance rather than transform.

Are there any trends you see coming through in menswear that are surprising you?

On the whole, menswear is going to be more diverse. I feel that it is going to be a prolonged revolution, and it will take time to go over and over.

Do you think the demand for luxury menswear is still as great as it used to be?

I think it’s even growing because today men are much more conscious about their style. They know what they want and they focus on the idea of building a total wardrobe able to answer to their needs and tastes. It’s not anymore about buying a designer accessory, It’s about meeting their lifestyle while granting their aesthetic desires.

How do you think the brand is appealing to the younger technology savvy customer?

Responsiveness to change. Being able to be pliant, flexible, fast – that’s the secret. Without neglecting creativity. Making bold proposals, being capable of taking risks always fosters business. And this applies to all sectors. For example the number of items presented in a collection. Ten years ago still, most of the garments seen on the catwalks each season were not produced commercially and customers would not find them in the stores. Today we make sure that nearly half of what you see at the show can be purchased. We do this not only by our efforts upstream to better streamline the offer and avoid excesses, for instance in the colorama, but also downstream, by rethinking the way we distribute our products and make them available to our customers. The omnichannel strategy combines what is referred to as off-line and on-line sales and has become a must in the luxury goods market. We need a 360° approach, diversification of the offering. Last but not least: social media. I love the immediacy of social media. Look at my Instagram. I can read instantly the comments and look at the photos taken by all the show guests. Some photographed certain special details on the clothes. Some like to photograph sneakers. We can see from different angles what everyone likes.

And what about men’s luxury fashion – how would you define it today?

The world is changing, everything has sped up, people shop differently and our competitors are not the same. Some of them didn’t even exist four or five years ago. Our potential customers feel more and more free to express their identity; they choose a brand because they like it, not because of its recognisability. This new approach requires us to be more responsive and capable of presenting more collections. We can offer a narrower range but it has to be renewed more often. Digital communication, everything that is happening in the social networks has changed our way of doing things: our roots haven’t changed but our agenda has been drastically revised. Clearly, a whole series of pieces that were still essential not long ago—hats, umbrellas, ties—have practically disappeared. But others such as caps and scarves have replaced them. What has really changed is the motivation for wearing them. In the past we all had our standards in the area of elegance: I remembered how my father dressed, I would look at people in the street, I used to buy Men’s Vogue. Now we are living in pace with the click culture. Networks like Tumblr, Pinterest, Instagram are sources of inspiration. You might be confronted with hundreds of pictures a week or even every day. That is where trends are born and die. Combining tailoring with sportswear effortlessly; sneakers with evening jackets, classical blazers with jogging pants. That is the new dress code. It’s not about accessories like ties or scarfs but more about sophisticated, fresh combinations.

What do you see as the future for the brand?

The thing that is very important for Zegna is that our vision for clothing is totally multigenerational. In the past there was always this perception that a younger man should dress in one way but someone a bit older should dress in another way, and there was always this opposition. The idea behind Zegna is to create garments that are appealing across all age groups. And it must appeal across all nationalities. But this is not an approach of uniformity. Quite the opposite. All these men should be united by stylish, incredibly beautifully made clothes, but clothes that also give them the possibility to dress with a very personal approach. They should be able to be themselves in the best way through our clothes. The same quality Zegna guarantees through “sheep to shop” approach but with a new modern take on style and silhouettes, together with a fresh and more casual attitude as you have seen in the show. Craft and modernity, two very different worlds. When you find the way to perfectly merge them, here come the major innovation in style.

What do you consider as luxury?

The first time you experience a dream you always wished.

What has been the highlight of your career so far?

The first Z ZEGNA Fashion Show in NYC in February 2007, It was the first runway show of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. Z Zegna successfully participated at five New York Fashion Weeks before moving to Milan in June 2009. Then on July 1, 2011 the appointment as Artistic Director at Berluti, with the aim of creating a luxury total wardrobe. And then, most of all, on February 5, 2016 the appointment to the newly created position of Artistic Director with responsibility across all Zegna brands and for all creative functions.

Where do you go for inspiration?

In regards to my personal creative inspirations I have a passion for pictures; I do quite a lot of photography myself. When I begin a collection, I assemble the shots of men I find inspiring, most of whom I know personally, but also others I do not know at all. Then I try to imagine how what they are wearing can influence the way they live and vice-versa. From time to time something in a film, a documentary, an exhibition stirs me. And also travels inspire me a lot, especially in countries that make me feel good, where I can meet open and interesting people

Tell us something about yourself that no one knows?

I love cooking any kind of risotto! The one with mushrooms is my favourite.

What are you most passionate about?

I like modern art and vintage cars, I love the sense of freedom when driving alone. I also like contemporary photography. As to movies, I like movies directed by Fellini and the Coen Brothers, about crazy people or normal people doing crazy things. Also, I love “The Ice Storm” TV series. It’s crazy. I also like David Lynch’s work. As to a muse, that would be my mother. She is a seamstress. I learnt to sew from her.

No hotel in Monte Carlo has more history than Hotel Hermitage. Built in 1890 this palace style Belle Époque property is a luxury haven in the most sought after location on the French Riviera. Hotels don’t come much more luxurious than Hotel Hermitage, and with centuries of history to admire this property really is one of a kind.

THE HISTORY

Hotel Hermitage was designed in the 1890’s by leading architect of the time Jean Marquet. Centuries later the same property still stands high above the hills in Monte Carlo making it a focal point of the city. Of course there have been many updates and renovations to the property but even until today what remains is the character and opulence of the hotel which remains unchanged for over 100 years. The original dining room named Belle Époque is one of the hotel’s most coveted aspects while, one of the most famous spots is the hotel’s hand painted ceiling; the work of artist Gabriel Ferrier. Another of the hotel’s wonders is the Jardin d’Hiver (Winter Garden). It owes its prestige to the glass conservatory created and erected by disciples of the undisputed master of metal architecture, Gustave Eiffel.

While much of the hotel remains the same it was given a modern facelift in the 1970’s which included the addition of pastel tones, gildings and new lighting. Since further renovations in the early 2000s; today Hotel Hermitage is a meeting point of the old and new with a combination of classic authenticity and modern technology; attracting many of the regions highly esteemed residents who pass through the doors of this iconic property on a daily basis.

ROOMS & SUITES 

Despite offering 278 rooms and suites the hotel feels intimate and personal thanks to the character and homely feel of its rooms. Each one slightly different in design or shape, the rooms and suites offer a perfect blend between old and new. The sea is visible from all five wings of the hotel creating a bright welcoming atmosphere when you enter – this is a view you are going to want to look at all day – trust us.

The showpiece rooms are the Diamond Suites. These 12 suites feature views overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. The large suites are individual in their amenities but highlights include the Diamond Presidential suite, which comes complete with two terraces, two bedrooms, living room and dressing room all created in neo-classical style. While  the Diamond Duplex Suite with Jacuzzi is situated in the room of the hotel with the added bonus of a jacuzzi. This room is also complemented by a modern glass staircase that gives the effect of space.

SPA & WELLNESS   

The Thermes Marina Monte-Carlo offers “zen, luxury, technology and performance” to all of its clients. This spa, salon and wellness centre is known for being the ultimate destination for wellbeing in the region. Directly connected to Hotel Hermitage, Thermes Marins Monte-Carlo features a wellness space, The Spa Ô, beauty salon, hair salon, boutique and health restaurant; L’Hirondelle. Treatments at the centre are super high end, offering the best quality products and services. The fitness area also features a warm seawater pool with panoramic sea views. If you’re looking for something different we recommend the Cryotherapy treatment which involves submerging your body in intense freezing temperatures to  help with sleep issues, jet, lag physical pain, intellectual abilities and more.

FINE DINING

Of course no luxury hotel would be complete without an incredible gourmet experience. At Michelin star restaurant Le Vistamar, guests will experience the ultimate in five star dining from chef Benoit Witz. The intimate menu uses locally sourced products to create dishes that are perfect for sharing and tasting the authentic flavours of The Mediterranean. The venue is intimate and the outdoor terrace is a must for summer evening, overlooking the idyllic resort. In contrast the Limùn bar offers luxury food on the go. The intimate space is decorated in eautiful past tones and features a crystal bar, created by interior designer Pierre-Yves Rochon.

Lebanese jewellery designer Selim Mouzannar has a spent over twenty five years building his luxury jewellery house and turning it into a global success.

Selim Mouzannar has lived and breathed jewellery since his childhood. Growing up in Beirut Mouzannar spent his days helping his father at his atelier and jewellery store. Coming from a family of jewellers, Selim’s father trained him to be a craftsman while working in Beirut’s old souk. When he was 17, he left his home country of Lebanon to study in Paris. He graduated with a degree in Mineralogy and Gemology setting him up for a career working with precious stones.

Returning to The Middle East, Mouzannar quickly built up a career working as a production and purchasing manager for a renowned jeweller based in Saudi Arabia. His work then took him to Thailand and then back to Paris before returning to Beirut in 1993 to establish his own jewellery brand Maison Selim Mouzannar.

Expanding his brand globally since the launch of his first store, Mouzannar has designed jewellery for the likes of Jennifer Lawrence, Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Stone and Rhianna. The designer now has a presences not only in his home country but also in Turkey, The United Kingdom, France, Switzerland and the UAE amongst many others.

The designer has a strong passion for stones having dedicated his life to sourcing some of the most natural and unique stones in the world. He is known for his crafting technique, known as ‘Falamenk’ (“Flemish” in Arabic), which combines rose-cut diamonds, with silver-bottomed bezel settings. Mouzannar’s designs are inspired by the Ottoman Art Deco architecture of old Beirut and his passion for the sea.

Here Selim Mouzannar talks to A&E about his love for precious stones and the lessons he has learnt during his lengthy career in the industry.

What do you want the world to know about precious stones?

I can spend hours looking at stones, I am always amazed by the small world that lives in them. By nature, all the colours and shades make me dream. I can’t see the world in black and white; in between there is plenty of colours. Mixing them all is my therapy. I love rose cut gems, they are shaped with less facets than modern cut giving them a less aggressive and more poetic aspect.

What are the challenges you face when choosing which gemstones to work on?

It is not a challenge for me but a pleasure, I play with stones. Stones drive me to the design of a jewel, this is what makes each piece unique.

Tell us about your favorite precious stone.

My favorite stone is ‘Nature’, and each gemstone is a love story on its own. All the shades of blue remind me my favourite place; the Mediterranean.

What are the common mistakes women in the Arab world make when choosing a new piece of jewellery?

There is no mistake, the only way to choose jewellery is to follow your emotions.

What is the most common misconception people have about diamonds?

The beauty of a diamond is not a question of clarity or colour. For me, falamenki diamonds – which is an old cut- are very poetic and give a hint of vintage that brilliant diamonds don’t have.

Why did you choose to leave Lebanon and your family at the age of 17?

When I was 17, the Lebanese civil war was still in full swing. I had to travel to pursue my education further. My first stop brought me to Paris where I studied mineralogy, and from thereon I set out on a journey around the globe, accumulating experiences and life enriching adventures.

What did you learn during that period?

My childhood was spent in Beirut roaming the incense-scented halls of the souk where ran hundreds of jewellery workshops, my father and grandfather among them. During afternoons helping my father there, I walked past all the showcases jammed with jewels crafted in the Falamenk Ottoman style. It is something that you never forget, I was raised there and despite my young age I was familiar with different jewellery craftsmanship. You could say it shaped me in a way.

What is the most important lesson you have learned during your career?

Stay positive, keep learning and enjoying life.

What philosophy do you follow for work?

Pleasure and following my intuitions; I love when finding ideas is random.

Which celebrity or person would you most like to design a unique piece of jewellery for?

For me, jewelry must complement the person wearing it; it should be in harmony with their character and personality firstly. I do not sell jewellery just for the sake of establishing a transaction; I make sure that every client of mine buys something that suits them body and soul, something that makes them feel good about themselves. Making jewellery is a way to communicate happiness and peaceful feelings, and it is meant for all women.

What do you think about the outburst of new jewellery designers, and what advice do you have for them?

Each designer has his own personality, his own talent. I always learn from others; this is my way of keeping my mind open. Relationships with other designers has always been a great reward for me. 3 years ago, I opened MACLE, a multibrand jewellery store across the street from my own store. This is a way to show the link between jewellery designers that come from all over the world. It seems that even if we have different cultures, we all share the same spirit toward creation, craftsmanship, and proudness of our own history, and poetry.

What is your favorite quote?

Life is plenty of opportunities and optimism is a moral duty.

Your favorite book and why?

It would be a shame to only have one!

If you were not a jewellery designer, what other profession would you have chosen?

A journalist!

How do you view the future of Selim Mouzannar house of jewellery?

Flying to the moon!

By Charline Deek

Louis Vuitton brought fashion month to a close as it presented its SS19 collection in the most spectacular of show venues. Models and the audience were encased inside a glass passageway that was custom-built above the water outside the iconic Louvre Museum in Paris. Inside, the catwalk was mirrored and light reflected back and forth through the space to create a futuristic effect.

And it was futuristic that was the basis of Nicolas Ghesquière’s designs. As models paraded the runway it almost looked as though they had been beamed in from another dimension. Nicolas played with graphics and volumes to create a signature silhouette that was uniform for each of the looks. Exaggerated sleeves, wide shoulders and a silhouette that ends just above the knee with the exception of a few pairs of trousers – the latter of which was skinny cut and androgynous.

The prints were graphic and colourful; inspired by the worlds of virtual reality, yet had a sense of the eighties at the same time. Fabrics were moderns with mesh, mirroring, neoprene sleeves, and moulded rubber. Dresses were sculptured in a way that represented space suits and hemlines and edges were sharp and moulded.

Of course, as with any Louis Vuitton show, the accessories were a talking point. Shoes came in the form of leather lace up boots or Chelsea boots. Juxtaposing against the futuristic style these boots felt vintage and retro. And then of course there was the bags. The Monogram bag featured in classic brown tones but took on new shapes including a round version and large box shape. Other bags resembled space gadgets or boxes and were worn across the body, while others were carried under the arms of models.

This new futuristic muse explores Ghesquière’s passion for virtual reality – will this be the uniform style for the next few seasons?

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Paris Fashion Week SS19: Miu Miu

Paris Fashion Week SS19: Chanel

The Duchess of Cambridge returned to her Royal duties yesterday after a six-month maternity leave break after the birth of her son Louis in April.

Kate visited a school in London where she met a group of children who were taking part in various outdoor activities. Despite only having a baby six months ago the Duchess looked stunning in a country-chic outfit. She wore grey jeans that were actually from Zara, a green raincoat by US brand Fjallraven, matching jumper and polka dot shirt by Joseph which she wore underneath

She finished the outfit by accessorising with a pair of green drop gemstone earrings. And brown knee high boots by Penelope Chilvers. Kate’s hair also appears to be shorter, and she sported her trademark bouncy blow dry.

The Duchess of Cambridge has never been anything but flawless with her style choices, so we’re happy to see she is back and living up to her standards by perfecting countryside dress. We think she might even be giving Meghan Markle something to compete with for the title of the most stylish Royal!

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This is how Meghan Markle celebrated her first birthday as a royal

Meghan Markle and Prince Harry’s joint Monogram revealed

Kaia Gerber has been unveiled as the new make-up ambassador for YSL Beauté. The model, who has just finished an incredibly hectic fashion month, was chosen for her youthful image as well as her bold personality and playfulness.

“To be the new face of YSL Beauté is an opportunity to write a new story full of fun, colour and makeup. I love the DNA of a brand that is so subversive while being so luxurious and cool!” said Kaia. According to a statement by YSL Kaia’s “growing independence coupled with an innate confidence makes her aspirational as a modern-day girl, doing things her own way.”

With the annoncement comes the news of new beauty campaigns for the brand. The first of which wil debut in January 2019. Shot by photographer David Sims for the Rouge Volupté Shine; the brand’s moisturizing lipstick. Kaia will also be the muse for YSL’s iconic Touche Éclat and Mascara Volume Effet Faux Clis, with campaigns that will debut later in the year. All of the campaigns will highlight the model’s youthful spirit and enhance her natural beauty, while allowing for self-expression and make-up creativity.

“Kaia is a blossoming talent with a unique sense of style and a stunning beauty. The perfect embodiment of her generation’s desire for authenticity and edginess, as a muse and ambassador she will convey these values which entirely resonate with what YSL Beauté stands for”, stated Stephan Bezy, International General Manager of Yves Saint Laurent Beauté.”

Last season Miu Miu did punk rock chick. For spring/summer 2019 it was a different type of party girl. The type who maintains her elegance when she visits jazz bars at night, but she has a wild side.

Just before the show the House debuted a new symbol. Designed in collaboration with M/M Paris it is created to look like a face, a pet or a flower. It is friendly and affectionate, but with a touch of abstraction. Conceived with simple geometry, its playful modularity expanded throughout the Palais d’lena.

This collection had the feeling of a little girl playing dress up. From the chunky platform heels to the big bows and multiple brooches that were pinned on to shirts and jackets. The colours were girly and sparkling fabrics and exotic leathers made us feel like these pieces were found in someone’s dressing up box. Even the fits continued this vibe, with everything being slightly oversized or longlined – much of which was nipped into shape with waist belts. Fabrics and prints were clashing and mismatched but in a way that somehow worked.

While Miuccia Prada’s was clearly for a girly girl, or woman, there were plenty of masculine influences too. Blazers and short suits, crisp shirts, pencil skirt suits – all of which were kept feminine with sparkling materials, embellishment and transparent fabrics.

Accessories were oversized too. Shoes were sky high with an elevated platform and sunglasses were huge with reflective lenses. Nearly every look was paired with knee high socks Brooches were a must mention, with multiple jewels being pinned to dresses and jackets, while oversized bows and roses made of fabric were also added to looks.

This collection took us back to our childhood, but kept us firmly in the modern day with its juxtaposition of old meets new and combinations of styles, materials and fabrics that somehow worked together, even if we weren’t expecting them to.

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Paris Fashion Week SS19: Chanel

Paris Fashion Week SS19: Alexander McQueen

Chanel got us in the mood for a holiday this morning with its SS19 presentation. It seems Karl Lagerfeld didn’t want to say goodbye to his summer holiday as he imagined a sunny beach landscape stretching out under azure-coloured skies. And this was the backdrop for the show, held at the Grand Palais, complete with sea, a skyline backdrop and even lifeguards (who were wearing custom-made Chanel, of course). As the sun beamed through the roof it really did feel like a holiday destination with a sand-covered floor recreating a summer holiday beach scene.

The collection highlighted how even the most elegant of ladies has her casual side. Wearing exactly what we would imagine a Chanel muse to wear on her vacation. All of the models were barefoot, letting their toes run through the sand. Those who did have shoes were holding them in their hands as they walked through the waves.

It was all of course, very Chanel, but with a relaxed playfulness to it. Cotton dresses were loose on the body, tweed was embroidered with bright threads, and swing jackets and dresses moved with the body. Trousers were cropped mid-calf and tight on the legs – perfect for dipping your feet in the sea. Or alternatively tweed trousers were created with slits to the thigh and cut wide legged – almost like culottes. Cardigans and jackets were loose on the body or worn on the shoulders and jackets were cropped giving them a younger feel. There was even a certain aspect of logomania with the words Chanel emblazoned on jackets and sweaters and accessories – evoking the feeling that we can’t help but think that this collection is aiming towards a slightly younger woman. The colour palette was held together by monochrome staples, with nude tones, pinks, yellows and blues in between.

Accessories were fun and playful. Jewellery was bright and statement, long gold chains layered over dresses and bold statement necklaces spelt out the word CHANEL. thick colourful cuffs were worn on the lower arm. Shoes feature Perspex heels and were love in height. Straw hats, either wide brimmed of cap style were worn by almost all of the models, many of the looks featured not one, but two Chanel bags – all  inspiring us for our next summer holiday!

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Paris Fashion Week SS19: Alexander McQueen

Paris Fashion Week SS19: Giambattista Valli