Creative director Daniel Roseberry presented his third ready-to-wear collection for Schiaparelli this week in Paris.
Since first launching RTW last year, the house – which is traditionally known for its couture – has demonstrated how it can distil the house pillars to create something equally fabulous for the everyday.
On the runway for FW24, there were power suits with Schiaparelli’s famous Surrealist touches (a hair plate as a tie, for example) alongside structured denim silhouettes and sleek feminine lines.
Discussing the current collection, and the house’s move into ready-to-wear, Roseberry said: “In the five years I’ve been here, we’ve created any number of infamous moments with our couture looks, combustions of fashion, celebrity, culture, and history. All the while, however, we’ve been developing couture’s sister: Our ready-to-wear, fully formed, hyper-exclusive collections for the daily lives of our clientele. These collections are complete wardrobes of everyday staples — but with the volume turned up to Schiaparelli settings.”
Ten key looks
Look 6
Exaggeratedly rounded-shouldered jacket in blue wash denim embellished with gold-tone metal denim buttons and tobacco-coloured contrast topstitching details. Stockman-inspired pencil skirt in blue washed denim, slit at the front and decorated with tobacco-coloured contrasting topstitching details and a signature mouth zipper pull in gold metal at back. Stunning Red! pointy mules in black velvet with a signature S-shaped heel encrusted with pearls and rhinestones. Sunglasses with rectangular lenses decorated with piercings on the temples. Brass choker necklace featuring textured rhinestone leaves and a signature eye. Brass ring featuring a realistic eye with contrasting rhinestone piercings.
Look 8
Flared mini-skirt in black bonded velvet embellished with tonal topstitching details and a signature Keyhole zipper in gilded metal. Short cardigan jacket in felted wool with tartan pattern and frayed edge, embellished with bijoux buttons on the middle front. Half brim cap in black velvet, featuring a signature Keyhole detail as the adjusting element. Cowboy boots in black glossy croco-effect
Look 10
Long double-breasted fitted coat in felted wool with tartan pattern and frayed edge, embellished with two rows of bijoux buttons. Half brim cap in black velvet, decorated with jewelled eyes signed on the back. Cowboy boots in shiny brown croco-effect embossed leather inlaid with a moulded ear covered with rhinestone piercings. Brass hoop earrings with silver rhinestone piercing. Rigid clutch in copper alloy featuring a face adorned with piercings and rhinestones.
Look 18
Short zip-up down jacket in black technical nylon embellished with tonal trompe l’oeil signature torso and bones, nipple buttons, anatomy snaps on the pockets and a signature mouth zipper in gold metal on the front. It is worn over a Stockman-inspired pencil skirt in black bonded velvet slit up the front and decorated with anthracite contrasting topstitching details and a signature mouth zipper pull in gilded metal on the back. Half brim cap in croco-effect embossed black glossy leather, featuring the signature Keyhole detail as the adjusting element. Aluminium earrings with signature Keyhole detail. Cowboy boots in black glossy leather with gilded metal toe cap adorned with signature Keyhole detail and signature S-shaped heels.
Look 20
Short coat in croco-effect embossed patinated amber leather, decorated with an oversized anatomy bijou button on the collar and oversized signature Keyhole buckles on the sleeves. Matching cowboy boots. Anatomie signature mismatched brass earrings. Anatomie jewellery pouch in puzzle-effect embossed brown glossy leather.
Look 22
Fawn shearling peacoat inlaid with a signature trompe l’oeil skeleton in contrasting black glossy leather and adorned with a signature hammered gold brass Keyhole clasp on the front. It is worn over a hooded sleeveless bodysuit in a black laminated compact jersey. Cowboy thigh-high boots in croco-effect embossed black glossy leather inlaid with a moulded ear covered with rhinestone piercings. Tortoiseshell sunglasses with oval lenses and signature Keyhole detail on temples.
Look 30
Bodycon long dress in gold laminated viscose, embellished with bijoux straps and a plunging neckline. Stunning Red! lined pointy mules in brown velvet with signature S-shaped heel encrusted with pearls and rhinestones. Pair of trompe l’oeil aluminium cuffs featuring multiple bracelets. Brass bracelet representing a realistic mouth adorned with contrasting rhinestone piercing. Donut bracelet in hammered brass with rhinestone edging. Brass ring featuring a realistic eye with contrasting rhinestone piercings. Chain pouch in patinated calf leather adorned with a signature keyhole clasp in hammered gilded brass.
Look 38
Draped long dress with long sleeves and high collar in ecru crepe jersey, featuring a trompe l’oeil bodysuit in contrasting black compact jersey inlaid on the upper part and a long draped skirt with extreme slit on the lower part. Stunning Red! pointy mules in black velvet with signature S-shaped heel encrusted with pearls and rhinestones. Realistic mouth brass ring with contrasting rhinestone piercing. Brass nipple ring with contrasting rhinestone piercing.
Look 40
Long dress entirely embroidered with sequins and rhinestones, inlaid with a contrasting black and nude trompe l’oeil body print. Cross-strap mules in glossy black leather.
Look 3
Double-breasted jacket in sand-coloured wool twill, embellished with bijoux buttons at centre front and bottom sleeves. Matching extra-wide darted pants. White cotton poplin shirt. Faux hair cowboy tie. Cowboy belt in glossy brown croco-effect embossed leather with signature anatomy buckle. Brown leather cowboy boots inlaid with a moulded ear covered with rhinestone piercings. Copper earrings representing a violin element.
