Faiza Bouguessa and The Global Abaya

Natalie Hanson   |   09-02-2017

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Since the age of 12, Faiza Bouguessa knew she wanted to be a fashion designer with her own clothing line. Her grandmother taught her to sew and knit, and the pursuit of hands-on design skills soon led her to multiple internships at fashion houses and couture workshops.

Moving to Dubai as an Emirates flight attendant, French-Algerian born fashion designer Faiza turned what started as a hobby, into a passion, and subsequently a successful brand. Through her numerous internships, she learnt the basics of pattern making and developed an understanding for fabric characteristics. Then, reinventing what is a traditional garment, through inspirations from art and architecture, Faiza made her name as she introduced her signature designs, which are known as the ‘global abaya.’

Here we meet the owner and designer of the brand, who has changed the perception of the Abaya, with her line of modern, elegant, and minimalist designs, that have even become a fashion statement for non-Muslim women.

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How did you know you wanted a career in fashion?

Aside from being surrounded by women in my family who introduced me to the world of fashion from an early age, I was always very sensitive to all sorts of Arts as a child and I learned from my grandmother how to sew and knit from a very early age. My mother started buying me fashion magazines quite early in my teen years, I guess that she sensed a strong interest in me. Growing up in France also had its impact as fashion is an important part of the culture of the Country, with fashion weeks always being closely covered by the media. When I was about 12 years old, I decided that I would be a fashion designer, and this has remained my career goal until 3 years ago, when I launched Bouguessa.

What experience did you have that equipped you for setting up your own brand?

I had no experience really, I would say that I believed strongly that I could, so I read a lot, and tried my best to find as much information as I could to make it happen.

Starting from scratch, what obstacles did you face when launching Bouguessa?

I could write a book about the obstacles! I would say the biggest obstacle was having nobody to share my struggles with when I started, and having to find solutions to obstacles by myself. The different challenges taught me how to control my stress and be able to manage finding solutions very fast. I even accepted that there will always be challenges along the way and that it is a positive thing because it means the company is growing.

Why did you choose to create a fashion line based on the Abaya silhouette?

The traditional Abaya always intrigued me. Moving to Dubai 10 years ago, I found that the women wearing it looked enigmatic, very feminine in the way they walk, and carry themselves.

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What sets your Abayas apart?

Our pieces are as beautifully made inside and out. We pay strong attention to details as well as comfort and fit. Some of the styles take 10 hours to make, and as you know it is not because of embroideries but some of our finishings takes time. It is extremely important to me that women feel comfortable in our pieces, and that is why I take the time to research fabrics, which are all of a high quality.

What are your most significant inspirations and influences?

Besides being inspired by art, architecture, and global culture, I am very inspired by women in general. Women of today, and women of the past.

Can you tell us about the concept for your global Abaya, and how you came up with it?

My concept was to create a brand that creates a bridge between two cultures. So, I imagined an abaya that is inspired from the international trend, and by doing so, I created an international garment that seems inspired by the Abaya silhouette, and that any women in the world can wear in her own way, as a summer trench, as a coat, as an abaya, or as an overlay that creates a statement look. I must admit that to me it was very important to expose the elegance and strength that I have encountered in the Middle-Eastern women who wear the Abaya to the world.

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You honour tradition with your designs, but how do you find those with traditional values respond to your contemporary style?

All my clients who come from the Middle-East are very close to their traditional values. They are very modern women, very smart and open to the world with a strong identity. Not only do women from this region like this contemporary style, I feel that it helps them have a stronger individual identity.

Have you ever felt that by focusing on the Abaya, you are limiting the interest and future growth of your brand?

I was lucky to have been noticed by Vogue Italia not long after launching my first collection, and the following season, I was invited by Vogue Italia and La Camera della Moda Italiana to present at Milan Fashion week. It made me very optimistic. And while our first collection was offering Abayas only, since the second collection we have been including ready-to-wear items such as dresses, pants, and tops that complement the looks. We show every season at Paris Fashion Week, and received amazing feedback from international press and buyers.

How do you think the Abaya is viewed internationally?

Though I noticed that the industry is ready for modest fashion, I am not so sure that the people in Europe and America are.

Did you ever imagine that you would garner interest from the Western world for your designs?

Never!

How did it come about that Beyoncé wore one of your designs, and what was your reaction?

We sent the piece of her choice to her stylist Zerina Akers 10 months before she wore it. So, you can imagine my surprise, when I saw the pictures she posted on her Instagram and website!

Did this have a strong impact on the brand?

It created a hype, and helped with growing the brand awareness in the region.

Who else would you love to see wearing one of your Abayas?

Sheikha Moza, Giovanna Battaglia, Queen Rania, Olivia Palermo.

What tips can you give for styling your Bouguessa Abaya?

I design statement pieces that are minimal enough for anyone to accessorise them in their own way, and be able to express their personal style.

Do you have favourite, go-to accessory designers?

I have many favourite accessories designers, my friend Monica Sordo created statement jewellery that works very well with my designs. I love clutches by L’Afshar and Nathalie Trad, and for shoes, I like Aquazzura and Amina Muaddi.

How would you describe your own personal style?

Classic, but I like to push my limits and try new styles every now and then.

What drives you daily to keep inspired, and continue building your brand?

I am very passionate about what I do.

To you, what is key to being an empowered woman?

Know what you want to achieve, believe you can achieve it, and work night and day to achieve it. Do it with integrity, and don’t forget to give back to others.