Lucie and Luke Meier took their final bow as creative directors of Jil Sander with the presentation of the brand’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection at the Certosa District in Milan.
The collection, which embraced the duality of darkness and light, showcased the Meiers’ signature tension between opposing elements, combining urban edge with refined elegance.
The show opened in a pitch-black setting, accentuated by the stark contrast of cold, hyper-real lighting that illuminated the catwalk. Reimagined soundscapes by Benji B complemented the ambience, creating a dreamlike vortex that set the stage for the unveiling of the collection.
The Meiers explored a nuanced palette dominated by black, white, and grey, punctuated with flashes of silver, burgundy, pure red, lake blue, and lilac. Notable pieces included black leather jackets adorned with steel studs and eyelets, pointy shoes and boots in black, white, and red, and delicate floral prints emerging from dark fabrics.
Textures played a pivotal role, with garments featuring raw cuts, ribbons, feathers, and English tailoring wool that added depth and dimension. Sequined stripes, hand-applied in silver and black, graced pleated dresses crafted from knitted velvet, taffeta, and silk. The menswear offered a playful twist on traditional masculine silhouettes, with tailored jackets and coats detailed with studded belts, lace inserts, and asymmetric zippers.
Outerwear stood out with black-tipped blue shearling fur coats and collars, while knitwear featured ingeniously woven alpaca and cashmere pieces, available in both shrunken and oversized fits. Accessories ranged from sculptural clutches to bold shoppers and adjustable shoulder bags, reflecting the collection’s emphasis on strength and versatility.
Referencing New Wave nostalgia and a rebellious reinterpretation of tradition, the Meiers crafted a collection that balanced urban toughness with tender sophistication. The aesthetic seamlessly merged the everyday with sartorial perfection, a hallmark of their tenure at Jil Sander.
Founded in 1968 by Mrs. Jil Sander and acquired by OTB Fashion Group in 2021, the Milan-based brand has continued to epitomise modernity and sophistication under the Meiers’ creative direction since 2017. Their departure marks the end of an era characterised by minimalism infused with sensuality and craft.
As the show concluded, the audience—a mix of industry insiders and loyal supporters—rose in a standing ovation, honouring the duo’s impactful contribution to the brand. While the future of Jil Sander remains under speculation, the Fall/Winter 2025 collection stands as a testament to the Meiers’ legacy of thoughtful design and artistic rigour.
