Entering the Marni FW18 show space is like walking into a Marni storage facility with stacks of newspapers, vacuum packs of clothes, piles of car tires, rolled up rugs and bags of soil. The atmosphere spoke of reinvention as we look at mass of items that can be easily discarded, but instead they have been recycled into seating for the showgoers. Deconstruction in aid of creating something new.
Francesco Risso, Marni’s creative director, has become more confident over the last few seasons following a somewhat deflated reaction to his first line for the house. His design flair in mastering a sense of unease and wonder is something that draws in audiences, wanting to discover his inspiration and story. The peculiar mix of opulence and geometry creates drama but the over all feeling was of brightness and optimism.
The Fall story begins with a patent blue coat styled with a neat roll neck, platform heels and a chunky nude belt that had a rope thread hanging down from it. The undone compositions continued with patchwork of fabrics constructed into dresses with feminine silhouettes, boxy jackets with frayed threading and a bold mix of colour blocking seen in tunics layered over wide sleeve tops and loose cut trousers.
Some pieces felt as though they were quickly stitched together with the leftover fabrics like the leather coat that was half matte black and half green snakeskin, or the sequin gowns that could’ve been patched together from unworn glittering dresses forgotten in the back of the wardrobe.
The wild artistic mash up is something that cool girls adore from Marni and this collection may have been one of Risso’s strongest to date.