Italian cuisine from a German perspective.
BiCE Mare, Souk Al Bahar’s award-winning Italian restaurant, recently invited two-Michelin Star Chef Oliver Glowig, to curate a special menu which he came to oversee during a 3 day interactive event.
It is this element of Italian culture that distinguishes it from others, an eagerness to treat food as an art form and cultivate a sort of curiosity in the patron’s mind. Whether the aim is to highlight the components of a dish and their background, or the innovative ways in which different ingredients and textures were mixed together, at BiCe Mare they’ve successfully created this environment by regularly hosting such events.
Back in 1926, Beatrice Ruggeri, also known to her family and friends in Milan as BICE, founded the BICE group based on her hospitable spirit and love for delectable Tuscany inspired cuisine. The Seafood concept BiCe Mare has been located in the prestigious Souk Al Bahar since 2009 and with direct views to the Burj Khalifa and fountain show, and a full Italian team, it has won many loyal patrons over the years. During my visit I also noticed the simplicity of its interiors, which is a characteristic of Italian restaurants. It particularly transported me to a jazz inspired restaurant I visited near the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, right by the river. Even though it boasts a romantic terrace outside above The Dubai Fountain, I found that it was greatly inviting for family dinners filled with conversations and laughter. Amidst the 8 course meal created by two Michelin star chef, Oliver Glowig, were certain tastes and personal touches that caught the attention of my taste buds.
The evening succulently commenced with eggplant parmigiana served in Oliver’s unique style with smoked provola and tomato, then came a unique risotto made with carnaroli rice and four year aged parmigiano regiano and white alba truffle. The center of this risotto “hill”, as I called it, was egg yolk that came pouring out like lava. Its special dominating taste came from the fact that it originated from a goat milk fed chicken. I was interesting in entering the world of German chef Oliver Glowig, who left for Italy in 2001 and began heading L’Olivo restaurant located in the Capri Palace Hotel and Spa.
After nine years in Capri, Oliver then wanted to venture into something of his own and opened his well-known eponymous restaurant in Aldrovandi Villa Borghese in early 2011. Only eight months after its opening, the restaurant received two-Michelin stars in November 2011. Oliver is one of the only few chefs in the world who has managed to go directly from zero to two-Michelin stars, emphasizing on the level of excellence in terms of food and quality that is served under his leadership.
Ristorante Oliver Glowig
a&e caught up with the chef for a brief Q&A on the menu he prepared specially for Dubai and his attachment to Italian cuisine.
First of all, tell us about your experience creating this special menu for Dubai diners?
I have created the special menu for BiCE Mare based on the products available in Dubai, however I of course have included my signature dishes like raw scampi with burrata cheese and artichoke and the ravioli capresi. I noticed that in Dubai is a great availability of fresh Italian products and thus I wanted to bring true Italian cuisine to Dubai. My kitchen in Rome is not very complicated and a lot of people like it. I cook for many tourists from all over the world. Customers love the sincerity of my dishes and I do hope the people of Dubai will love my cooking as well.
Tell us about your German background, and how you came about to appreciate Italian food and take it on as a career!
The first time I went to Italy to study cooking I believe I found the best quality products in the world. I immediately fell in love with two things – first, Italian produce and its cooking style, and the second being my current wife who is originally from Capri. I have now been in Italy since the past 17 years. I believe it is my German rigor and the beauty of Italian produce that has made me who I am today.
What do you think about the positioning of Italian cuisine in Dubai’s culinary scene?
There are some great Italian restaurants in Dubai such as BiCE Mare and Alta Badia with some great chefs such as Alfonso Iaccarino, Claudio Melis, Francesco Guarracino. In BiCE Mare, the kitchen consists of only Italian chefs, which is what differentiates it from the various other restaurants in Dubai. I do not like Italian Restaurants where the chef has just come from another country and joined the kitchen, without much prior knowledge of true Italian products and the basics of Italian cuisine. Other nationality chefs may be more economical to hire maybe but they cannot do the same job as a true Italian chef.
What are some elements that distinguish Italian fine dining from others in your opinion?
The simple yet rich flavours of Italian cusine distinguish it from all other cuisines.
Scampi crudi, cuore di carciofo e burrata
Risotto alla camomilla con astice e polvere di capperi
Tuffoli e Genovese di pollo ruspante
What are some of your personality traits that helped you achieve 2 Michelin stars?
I believe my success is attributed to three key factors – a) I have diligently studied traditional Italian cuisine, getting my basics perfect. b) I have tried various Italian restaurants around the world, thus always knowing what the competition is offering and how I can be different. c) I have trained under some great chefs such as Gualtiero Marchesi.
What distinguishes a Michelin Star chef, from someone who doesn’t have that honour?
Once you have received a Michelin Star, there is a lot of responsibility on your plate. Our customers only expect perfection and there is no room for error. This is not only in what comes out of the kitchen, but even the ambience and the service has to be impeccable. Every little thing is noticed.
What kind of kitchen secrets do chefs usually keep? What are some of your best kept secrets?
There are no secrets. For me it is always about the quality of the ingredients. They have to be only the best quality, and it is the ingredients that eventually define the results of a kitchen.
I also believe in keeping things simple. At most times I use only three ingredients, at max four.
It is very important for me that the customer understands what they are eating.
How do you add an “Oliver touch” to your dishes?
The Oliver touch would be my passion for cooking. If my customers truly saw how passionate I am about my cooking, they will automatically realize the effort gone into preparing it. My cuisine is always cheerful with plain colours and a lot of flavor.
What would you say is your trademark?
Consistency. I aim to be perfect at all times.
We are profiling successful and inspiring men from different industries for our January issue, and wanted to know how you describe success in the culinary world?
In the beginning it is all about training and learning the trade working with great chefs. Even exploring different cultures and styles of cooking can influence your final dish. One must never stop learning. Finally, I believe success is not just measured by Michelin stars and other accolades, but by ensuring that diners always leave your restaurant with a smile. Awards are important, but it’s the customer’s happiness that truly makes a chef happy.
