Van Cleef & Arpels has epitomised timeless elegance and unparalleled craftsmanship, weaving poetry into high jewellery and watchmaking for over a century.
From its signature Mystery Set technique to its whimsical fairytale-inspired creations, the Maison has consistently redefined luxury, capturing the imagination of collectors and connoisseurs alike. As the world of High Jewellery evolves, Van Cleef & Arpels remains steadfast in its commitment to savoir-faire and artistic innovation. The brand recently hosted an exclusive exhibition in Dubai that celebrated some of the brand’s most treasured designs. Bringing these exclusive pieces together for the first time. Reflecting on the event, the brand’s CEO Catherine Reiner shares insights into the maison’s creative philosophy, the enduring allure of its iconic designs, and how the brand continues to push the boundaries of high jewellery while staying true to its storied heritage.
Tell us about the recent Treasure of Gems exhibition in Dubai.
With Treasure of Gems, Van Cleef & Arpels celebrated artistry and elegance while offering enchanting experiences. This intimate event, hosted in Dubai in February, was designed as an immersive journey to captivate High Jewelry connoisseurs. It showcased some of the Maison’s creations and highlighted the Maison’s expertise in the selection of rare and remarkable gemstones.
Can you tell us more about the pieces in the exhibition and why some of these iconic pieces were chosen?
Since 1906, the Maison has nurtured an expertise with no compromise on quality and with the strictest criteria for selecting stones that it strives to enhance in each setting. Over the decades, several one-of-a-kind stones have been mounted on High Jewelry pieces. Today, Van Cleef & Arpels pays tribute to their beauty, hues and appeal, as well as their unique character.
Each piece selected represents the essence of the Maison’s heritage, creativity and excellence in craftmanship. They also showcase the rarity and brilliance of remarkable gems, which brought to life thanks to the savoir-faire of Van Cleef & Arpels’ ateliers. Whether it’s the deep intensity of a ruby, the perfect symmetry of a flawless diamond, or the vibrant hues of emerald, each stone is a masterpiece in itself, chosen for its uniqueness and the emotions it elicits.
For example, the discovery of an exceptional rough diamond, the Lesotho Legend, led to the creation of the Legend of Diamonds High Jewelry collection. Collaborating with various experts, the Maison selected cuts that awakened the designers’ creativity.
The Maison’s Le Grand Tour High Jewelry collection, inspired by European travels from the 18th and 19th centuries, also features a great variety of gems to express sources of inspiration such as art, architecture, music, and natural wonders.
Claude Arpels’ believed that “Every stone has a soul of its own” and this was a central idea in the event. In what ways did this philosophy influence the pieces featured at Treasures of Gems?
Within our Stone Department, gemstones are carefully selected not only for their rarity and beauty, but also for the emotion they convey and the story they tell.
For Treasure of Gems, this belief guided our curation in multiple ways. First, we sought out stones with exceptional character, whose color, brilliance, and uniqueness set them apart. Whether it is the deep, velvety red of a ruby, the hypnotic blue of a sapphire, or the luminous fire of a diamond, each one was chosen for its singular energy and presence.
Beyond their physical attributes, the gemstones featured here are brought to life through our craftsmanship. Van Cleef & Arpels’ signature Mystery Set, intricate settings, and poetic designs allow each stone to reveal its full essence, enhancing its natural beauty and depth. This testifies to the Maison’s aim to highlight the soul of gemstones, letting them inspire the final form of the creations.
This approach is also reflected in the way we connect with our clients. Just as every stone has its own soul, every wearer has their own story. Through these pieces, we celebrate the profound and timeless dialogue between the jewel, the craftmsen, and the person who will ultimately bring it to life.
What do you think women are looking for from jewelry today?
Today, more than ever, I believe that women seek jewelry that is not only beautiful but also meaningful. They search for pieces that tell a story, reflect their individuality, and accompany them through life’s special moments.
At Van Cleef & Arpels, we understand that jewelry is more than an ornament; it is a form of self-expression. Women today are drawn to timeless creations that resonate with their personal style and emotions. Whether it is a piece that symbolizes luck, love, or a cherished memory, jewelry has become a way to celebrate life’s milestones and express one’s identity.
Additionally, versatility and wearability have become increasingly important in our designs. Women appreciate creations that can transition seamlessly from day to night, that are elegant yet effortless to wear. This is why our transformable High Jewelry creations are crafted to be both sophisticated and adaptable.
Van Cleef & Arpels has been known for its unique designs and craftsmanship. What inspires the creation of new collections?
Van Cleef & Arpels draws inspiration from a world rich in poetry, nature, and movement. Each new collection is born from a deep appreciation for beauty, a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, and a desire to tell stories through jewelry.
One of our primary sources of inspiration is nature, which has been an essential element in our designs since the Maison’s founding. From delicate floral motifs to butterflies and tender animals, we strive to capture the elegance and vitality of the natural world in our creations.
Other major themes are fairy tales, ballet, and literature. Our ballerina and fairy clips, for example, reflect Van Cleef & Arpels’ admiration for the performing arts, where movement and grace are translated into jewelry. Likewise, our High Jewelry collections often pay tribute to literary works, historical romances, and fantastical voyages, turning imagination into precious pieces.
Finally, our heritage continues to inspire us. The Maison’s archives and emblematic pieces serve as a foundation for contemporary ones, allowing us to reinterpret classic designs while pushing the boundaries of creativity. Techniques such as the Mystery Set, as well as transformable jewels, are constantly revisited to make way for modern masterpieces while honouring Van Cleef & Arpels’ tradition.
Ultimately, each new collection is a way to capture moments of beauty and turn them into timeless creations that resonate across generations.
