Geneva-based watchmaker Roger Dubuis has marked its 30th anniversary with the release of two high-complication models that pay tribute to its founder’s most recognisable innovations.
Excalibur Grande Complication
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders this weelk, the Excalibur Grande Complication and Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar both feature the Maison’s distinctive biretrograde display, a mechanism co-developed in the 1980s by Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht and used in the brand’s very first watch in 1995.
The Excalibur Grande Complication is limited to eight pieces and combines three of haute horlogerie’s most complex features: a perpetual calendar, minute repeater and flying tourbillon. These are housed in a 45 mm pink gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback and 3D brown calfskin leather strap.
The calibre RD118 delivers 60 hours of power reserve and comprises 684 components, each hand-decorated to meet the strict requirements of the Poinçon de Genève. The minute repeater includes a tritone chime activated by a pusher on the case and an “all or nothing” safety mechanism. The perpetual calendar features a leap year indication and will remain accurate without manual correction until 2100.
The flying tourbillon is positioned between 5 and 6 o’clock and uses non-magnetic titanium in a construction that recalls the Celtic Cross. This combination of technical mastery and expressive aesthetics was central to Mr Dubuis’ philosophy.
Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar
Alongside this release, the Maison has introduced the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar, a 40 mm pink gold model referencing design codes from the brand’s early years. Its calibre RD840 is an automatic movement with 60 hours of power reserve and features the Geneva Seal. The watch’s caseback showcases a modernised oscillating weight and includes an inscription in tribute to the brand’s heritage.
The dial displays the day and date on a biretrograde system with skeletonised hands, and includes mother-of-pearl inserts at 12 and 6 o’clock. A triple-folding clasp in matching pink gold completes the piece, which is paired with a brown calfskin leather strap and includes the Maison’s Quick Release System.
Both models reaffirm Roger Dubuis’ continued focus on blending technical innovation with expressive design, in keeping with its founder’s original vision.
