Hermès has introduced a new chapter in its Chaîne d’ancre jewellery line, reimagined by Pierre Hardy, creative director of Hermès jewellery. The collection explores scale, materials and form, while retaining the house’s distinct aesthetic.
Originally inspired by the silhouette of a ship’s anchor chain, the Chaîne d’ancre motif is revisited in designs that shift between lightness and strength. Hardy describes his approach as “accumulating, merging and fluidifying” archetypal forms across several creative territories. This philosophy underpins a collection that moves between discreet understatement and bold statement pieces.
The designs present contrasts through both material and scale. The chain becomes a motif in its own right, with clasps taking a central role. Some pieces are minimalist in execution, while others adopt a highly sophisticated finish. The motif is transformed through changes in size, from subtle accents to imposing forms. The collection also incorporates unique combinations of design and technique, such as rows of nautical chai intermingled, multiplied or isolated, with links that are rounded, elongated or interlaced.
Among the highlights is a rose gold necklace set with 5,191 diamonds totalling 53.62 carats, centred around a cushion-cut orange sapphire of 14.97 carats. Another notable piece is a white gold necklace with 3,532 diamonds (34.02 carats) and an oval-cut diamond of 2.02 carats. Coloured stones are also featured, such as a rose gold necklace with an oval-cut green tourmaline of 4.63 carats and a cabochon-cut multicoloured tourmaline of 46.55 carats.
The collection also includes silver bracelets, multistrand necklaces, and pieces that reinterpret the motif in unexpected forms. The Chaîne d’ancre Punk double and triple rings, available in silver and rose gold, play with irreverence. The motif is also transformed into minaudières, small jewellery bags in white gold and diamonds or in silver, designed to be worn around the neck or wrist.
Other designs include the Chaîne d’ancre Calypso bracelet and single earring in yellow gold set with diamonds, and the Danaé necklace in yellow gold. Across the range, the clasp is intentionally highlighted and sometimes placed at the front, underscoring Hermès’ emphasis on detail.
