For spring/ summer 2019, Max Mara dives deep into the ocean of women’s portrayal throughout history to showcase a new narrative, the one where she’s no longer in second place to men, in fact she is the one who rules all of the sea monsters.
They took inspiration from the strong female characters created in the literary works of Margaret Atwood and Madeline Miller as well as mythology tales of Gaia and Amphitrite. The brand wanted to restore the injustice of Amphitrite losing her rightful place as the queen of oceans to her husband Poseidon and put her back on the throne.
Without swimming too deep into the Greek mythology, at the core of this idea lies in the brand’s desire to empower women with strong-shoulder silhouettes, asymmetric draping, pressed studs and stylised utilitarian detailing that have been reworked into something for today.
Max Mara has always designed for women with an appreciation for streamlined luxury, Italian craftsmanship, sophisticated shapes and neutral colour palettes. They didn’t venture too far from their aesthetic, but they did offer a fresh perspective in terms of waxed jackets and separates in various earthy tones like moss green, copper brown, deep navy and charcoal black.
There were moments of brightness when Kaia Gerber stepped out in a canary yellow elongated blazer styled with one shoulder frill hem top, a pencil skirt that that she wore with matching shoes and what can be described as utilitarian slip on stocking that gives heels an illusion of boots.
If there is one thing that you can always rely on Max Mara for, it’s a flawlessly made coat and for next season expect structured boxy jackets and pea coats in Mediterranean shades of olive blue and pristine white (we have our eye on the short sleeve version).
Not only was there plenty to admire, but there was a lot of what a fierce and proud woman wants to wear today, whether she’s ruling the underwater creatures or charging into her next meeting.
Nothing helps you skin recover better than a good night’S sleep, but make it even more beneficial with one of our top rated overnight masks.
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Requiring minimum effort, you can literally sleep your way to a flawless complexion while your skin cells are given an extra boost of active ingredients that work even more efficiently during the midnight hours.
Look for products that deliver extra hydration as well as properties for healing redness and breakouts. The purpose of a sleep mask is to create a veil over the products you’ve used prior to application – such as your serum or oil – so they can deliver all the benefits they’re supposed to.
Before you doze off, go through your usual night time routine such as cleansing, toning, adding a serum, oil or ampule and then choose your mask of choice. Now you can give Sleeping Beauty a run for her money.
There’s always something extraordinary to discover at Milan Fashion Week and after last season’s dragons and drones, the sky is the limit.
Unlike last time, Gucci won’t be kicking things off as the brand migrates to Paris for a one off runway, so instead they will be hosting a soiree and Alberta Ferretti alongside Moncler will start the show proceedings.
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Bottega Veneta are skipping the schedule to allow their new creative director Daniel Lee to work on a debut collection for fall, however sportswear brand Fila makes a surprise addition to the schedule as well as Attico that are hosting an intimate presentation.
We are looking forward to seeing more from Prada following a series of successful collections as well as Versace. In our recent interview, Donatella Versace spoke about promoting women empowerment, equality and freedom through her clothes so be prepared for a powerhouse of models and statement pieces. At Roberto Cavalli, Paul Surridge has been defining his voice and balancing it with the brands rich archive. For SS19 we expect to see more of his design aesthetic.
Missoni will be celebrating 65th anniversary, and following last season’s Dolce & Gabbana show that saw drones fly down the runway carrying bags, what will the dynamic duo do next?
Make sure to follow our show coverage here and on Instagram.
Last season Alberta Ferretti wanted her clothes to show more personality and her SS19 embodies the ‘devil may care’ attitude of the women from the seventies.
‘Hotel California’ was the closing song for the show that captured the mood of the entire collection that was a blend of sheer transparency with on-the-road khaki attire.
“In this collection, I wanted to create a new attitude that encourages women to voice their strong personality through innocence, gentleness and an almost dreamy calmness. It is with this thought in mind, I was able to build a story that describes a physical adventure and an internal exploration, a more introspective journey. This leads to reflecting on the joys of living, while provoking women towards a deeper understanding of themselves in this world,” said Alberta Ferretti.
Her Fall collection was all about the power shoulders from the 80’s, but for summer she set the pieces free on models like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner. For one half of the show she dreamed up flowing silhouettes, a lot of skin peeking through lace, rainbow-hued hippy gown, delicate cami tops, and baby doll negligee mini’s.
For the second half she focused on the maxi flared trousers in earthy tones, puff-sleeve shirts, loose blazers, cropped jackets, safari shorst, ‘mom’ jeans and a very good looking green jumpsuit.
She styled it all with chunky sandals and oversized bags, the kind that you throw everything in before hitchhiking your way through American bohemia.
The Fall collection was dark and bold with metallic accents, but this is the feminine yet free spirited Ferretti that fans of the house love and go to for frilly dresses – after all nowadays you can look pretty and be powerful.
We are half way through the fashion month and our shopping list is growing.
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Riccardo Tisci’s Kingdom
A&E Guide To Milan Fashion Week SS19
From sandals to boots, both New York and London literally stepped up their game when it comes to a good looking pair of shoes. None were too scared to push the boundaries, and let’s be honest we probably spend more time decorating our feet than anything else.
Tom Ford took on the Balenciaga Knife heels with a sharper than sharp silhouette, while Proenza Schouler presented another pair of white statement boots that you’ll be kicking people out of the way for. Over in London it was a floral affair at Emilia Wickstead, and Riccardo Tisci paid a tribute to the British countryside that wouldn’t look right without a few cows in the field.
Click through the gallery above for our favourite shoes from SS19 runways so far.
With back to back meetings and luring deadlines, it’s become increasingly hard to focus, but few mindful changes can actually boost productivity and ease stress.
Mindfulness is all about being in the present moment and worrying less about what happened yesterday or what you have in the diary tomorrow. It’s about awareness and no judgement and spending less time on autopilot (like skim reading this article) and more time on developing your emotional intelligence.
Mindfulness expert Mirabai Bush, famous for introducing it to Google, told the Guardian:
“Becoming more aware of your own emotions as they arise gives you more choice in how to deal with them. Mindfulness helps you become more aware of an arising emotion by noticing the sensation in the body. Then you can follow these guidelines: stop what you are doing. Breathe deeply. Notice how you are experiencing the emotion in your body. Reflect on where the emotion is coming from in your mind (personal history, insecurity, etc). Respond in the most compassionate way.”
Unlike activities that are designed for unwinding – think Yoga and meditation – mindful moments can be taken anywhere. The key is to let your mind rest that helps you take a step back and make better decisions.
Breath
Next time you feel a moment frustration, gently breath in through the nose for three, hold for three and then breath out for three. Focus on the belly expanding and over time you can increase to five or even 10 seconds.
You’re Worth It
Okay, this isn’t our mantra but having a phrase or even a word that helps you refocus and give you those ‘good feelings’ can do wonders for your outlook on the rest of the day. Can’t think of the phrase? Ask yourself, how do you want to feel today?
Step Out
It might be hard to believe, but nothing horrendous (fingers crossed) is going to happen if you actually take your lunch break out of the office. Walking for just 15 minutes can ease anxiety and make you feel refreshed for the afternoon ahead.
Pat Yourself On The Back
Do you find that at the end of the day you’re focusing on a massive list of things you haven’t done and what you need to attack tomorrow? Why not write another list on the things that you actually have done, or better yet have a general list and cross things off as you go. Now doesn’t that feel satisfying?
Switch Off
When you really need to focus, there can be numerous things that can distract and one of the biggest culprits is our phone. Give yourself an hour, put the phone away and be amazed at how productive you can be.
There’s been much speculation around Riccardo Tisci’s new Burberry, but no one had any doubt that it will be forward thinking, diverse and exciting.
Guests were invited to the new show venue in Vauxhall, South London, which was stripped back to natural elements of concrete, wood and glass creating an urban blank canvas for his collection that paid homage to the individuality, eccentricity and inimitable attitude of Britain.
“I was thinking a lot about journeys as I started putting together my first Burberry collection. From my personal journey back to London 20 years after I showed my graduate collection here, to how far I have come. I was also inspired by how much London – the city that made me dream to become a designer – has evolved. This show is a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom,” Tisci said in a statement.
Titled ‘Kingdom’, the new vision for the house celebrates the diversity and the heart of England – the melting pot of creativity and style traditions from the punk and rebellious, to the formal and refined, all co-existing together.
Capturing the breadth of what British culture represents today, the 134 looks modelled by the likes of Kendall Jenner and Irina Shayk defined the visual language and lexicon for Burberry through new house codes and accessories. We saw literal tributes to the ‘Kingdom’ with British Passports attached to jackets as well as the classic Burberry check peeking through the inside seam of the trousers. He even added extracts from the works of Shakespeare.
Tisci referenced to the punk era with boxy silhouettes and mini skirts, but it’s fluid pieces that felt the most wearable, especially when he worked with the beige, taupe, grey and black palette. He added playful texture, gave leather an elegant edge and sent out an array of fabulous coats.
Pieces from his debut collection for are available to buy now exclusively on Instagram, WeChat and physically at Burberry’s London flagship store, 121 Regent Street.
Net-A-Porter’s beauty expert Newby Hands is back to share with some of the top makeup and hair trends you need to try this season.
There is a lot of focus on the eyes this season, as well as glowing complexion and hair decoration – basically it’s universally possible for everyone to update their beauty routines with any of the below. Take it away Newby…
The Metallics
I love this finish most on the eyes as it’s such a captivating look. Use a metallic deep navy or chocolate shade over your usual black smoky eyeshadow to give it an elegant, modern update. Nars’ Duo Eyeshadows in Underworld and Cordura work wonders as they’re highly pigmented and so easy to blend, and you can also tone this down slightly by using less product for a chic daytime look.
To emphasise your features and add a real dimension to your makeup, use metallic powders and lipsticks (I love Nars and Marc Jacobs) – they’re much more glamorous than winter glitter.
Glass Hair
David Mallett Mask No.1: L’Hydration, Oribe Flash Form Finishing Spray Wax, Raincry Condition Large Pure Boar Bristle Paddle, Sachajuan serum
We had glass skin last year and now it’s all about glass hair. In other words, the smoothest hair with an incredible gloss and shine finish. This starts with a super hydrating hair mask such as Mask No.1: L’Hydration from David Mallett’s range, followed by a fabulous blow dry and a premium finishing serum (try Sachajuan’s) to give hair its high shine.
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If you’re short for time, use a premium hair brush like Raincry’s Condition Large Pure Boar Bristle Paddle model, which effortlessly smooths hair and adds the desired shine. Then finish with Oribe’s Flash Form Finishing Spray Wax for a healthy glossy (but never greasy), hydrated look.
Slick Eye Liner
BBROWBAR Ultra Fine Liquid Liner, Pat McGrath Labs Permagel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil and Illamasqua Precision Gel Liner.
I love how easy it is this season to achieve a slick look with an eyeliner, and whether it’s a liquid, gel or pencil you can use it on the upper lashes, and/or lower lashes, flicked out or in the water line – as long as it’s black it looks great for AW18 for both the day and night. Favourites include BBROWBAR’s Ultra Fine Liquid Liner, Pat McGrath Labs Permagel Ultra Glide Eye Pencil (team A&E love the blue shade) and Illamasqua’s Precision Gel Liner.
Hero Hair Accessories
They were incredibly popular for the summer and hair adornments are definitely in for AW18 too – especially for the holiday party season. Whether it’s bejewelled pieces from Jennifer Behr or the more simple gold and silver styles, it’s a great way to instantly dress up the hair. Incorporate these into your everyday look with a Rosetta Getty knotted velvet headband or one of Lelet NY’s faux leather hair ties.
The ‘Supermodel’ Glow
Verso Hydrating Serum, Zelens PHA+ Bio-Peel Resurfacing Facial Pads, Dr Barbara Sturm Deep Hydrating Mask, Mimi Luzon Hyaluronic Cream
Great skin is always on trend but this autumn it’s about having the most healthy, plump and radiant complexion possible. This starts with great skincare.
Begin with using an excellent peel such as Zelens’ PHA+ Bio-Peel Resurfacing Facial Pads to exfoliate, even out skin tone and unclog pores. Then use an intense hydrating mask such as Dr Barbara Sturm’s Deep Hydrating Mask along with a hydrating serum or oil underneath for an extra glow (I like to use Verso’s Hydrating Serum for immediate results).
Finish with a cream rich in Hyaluronic acid, like Mimi Luzon’s Hyaluronic Cream, to seal in all the moisture and tighten and plump up the skin. To achieve that seamless finish to your base, apply your foundation and concealer as usual. Then for an extremely natural look use a Kabuki brush in small light circles all over the face.
Finally, for an ultimate supermodel glow, take a premium daily supplement such as LYMA’s Multi-Nutrient Complex capsules, which are packed full of key nutrients, clinically proven to fortify skin, hair and nails.
The Temperley London SS19 show was all about flawless and sensual dressing, and the makeup created by Charlotte Tilbury further emphasised the theme.
Models walked out in glowing, sun-kissed skin in bronze and golden hues with a hint of coral reflecting the colour palette of the collection. For evening, Tilbury presented a rock and roll eye which she is a pro at. She explained:
“For the day look, I added subtle pops of colour with a bright but relaxed coral, red matte lip, perfectly complementing the soft colour palette of the collection. For the evening look, I wanted the model’s look to feel a little more rock and roll, so I used smokey, chocolate bronze tones, and a hint of a Rock’n’Kohl flick, softy smudged at the edges to feel more lived in.”
Want to recreate the golden hour at home or add some drama to night? Here is how you can get the Temperley look at home.
SKIN
Charlotte prepped models skin with her best-selling Charlotte’s Magic Cream to face and neck to instantly flood the skin with moisture, and create the perfect canvas She followed this with Magic Eye Rescue to hydrate and visibly smooth the appearance of the skin around the eyes.
She mixed her Light Wonder foundation together with Hollywood Flawless Filter to create a dewy, instantly illuminated and flawless looking base. Charlotte then applied the latest Magic Away Concealer to hide the appearance of pores, smooth fine lines, and visibly reduce blemishes so every model has a runway-ready, flawless, poreless-looking complexion.
For the day look, Charlotte used her Hollywood Contour Wand to create a natural bronze, sun-kissed glow on the cheeks and temples. For the night look, Charlotte applied her Hollywood Contour Wand to contour the nose, jawline and define the cheekbones.
For select models, Charlotte applied her Hollywood Beauty Light Wand highlighter on top of the cheekbones, taking it down towards the apple of the cheeks, down the centre of the nose, and on the Cupid’s bow to give models creating ultimate luminosity and radiance.
EYES
For the eyes, Charlotte did two different looks. For the day look she applied Eyes To Mesmerise in Bette closely in to the top lash line, blending with an Eye Blender Brush. She then added The Classic eyeliner pencil in Audrey or Sophia along the top and bottom lash lines, and softly smudged using her Eye Smudger Brush for a more lived in look.
At the inner corners of the eyes, Charlotte dipped an Eye Smudger Brush into water and applied the lightest shade from her Bar of Gold Trio to the inner corners of the eyes.
For the night look, apply Eyes To Mesmerise in Mona Lisa along the top lash line and underneath the bottom lash line. Next, add the Rock’n’Kohl eyeliner pencil in Barbarella Brown or Bedroom Black along the top lash line into a small feline flick at the outer corner. Charlotte used her Eye Smudger Brush to softly blur the edges. To finish, she added her Eyes to Mesmerise in Marie Antoinette at the inner corner of the eye.
Models lashes were curled for definition using Charlotte’s Life Changing Lashes curler and she then applied her Legendary Lashes Volume 2 mascara to the top lashes.
Brows were kept natural, brushed up and groomed. Any gaps were filled in using Legendary Brows and Brow Lift where needed in the shades matched to the model’s hair.
LIPS
Charlotte completed the look with two different lip looks. The day option was a soft, bright matte lip. She firstly applied Hot Lips in Super Cindy to the lips and gently smudged using her finger for a softer edge. Next, she went in with the Hot Lips in Tell Laura over the top to make the colour pop.
For the evening look, Charlotte applied smudged a light layer of her iconic, award-winning Matte Revolution in Pillow Talk on to the lips for a subtle hint of colour.
Living in a social media driven society has turned us into compulsive scrollers, but there are numerous benefits to switching off.
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UK based Royal Society for Public Health has started a #ScrollFreeSeptember encouraging one month of a social media detox. Shirley Cramer, Chief Executive of RSPH explained in a statement:
“Whether it’s scrolling before bed stopping you sleeping, following aspirational and unattainable accounts denting your self-esteem, or the ever-presence of phones getting in the way of your face-to-face interactions with friends and family, Scroll Free September gives us all the opportunity to identify those negative elements and cut them out for good.”
Having a much needed phone cleanse can feel extreme at the beginning, but it takes a couple of days of discipline to see that some of our time swiping can be spent doing something a little more meaningful.
Here at A&E we can’t be without our phones for email and engaging on our social media platforms, but some members of our team have banned Instagram at home and were amazed how the ‘fear of missing out’ wasn’t as severe.
You can also leave your phone in another room as it prevents you from constantly checking it, or set rules at like switching off after dinner. At the office keep your phone in the bag and see how much more productive you are.
It’s the little changes that will help you enjoy your moments, rather than someone else’s.
One of our favourite brands from the London Fashion Week schedule has been handpicked by the Outnet to launch online tomorrow.
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How To Wear Plaid Like A Londoner
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For dreamy floral dresses with a touch of tough-girl drama, nobody does Victorian punk like Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. Founded by Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi in Notting Hill in 1996, it has become the pride of British fashion for their innovative use of prints and fabric.
From September 17, luxury e-tailer the TheOutnet.com will stock romantic gowns, statement tops and flattering midi-skirts realized in the designer’s classic shapes. Botanical references inform colour and design throughout, with gathered detailing and chic asymmetric hemlines creating a fresh and modern feel.
Romantic but contemporary, their collections are worn by Kate Bosworth, Michelle Obama and Scarlett Johansson to name a few. We’ll see you at the checkout.
There are plenty of glamorous red carpet moments throughout the year, but last night’s Emmy Awards pushed the style game further.
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It may not have been as visually creative as the Met Ball, but everyone upped their game at the biggest television awards when it came to jaw-dropping gowns showcasing volume, bold hues and intricate detail.
Penelope Cruz stepped out in Chanel Couture feathered masterpiece that took almost 300 hours to make, Emilia Clarke showcased a chic way to wear a sheer gown with Dior while Thandie Newton and Claire Foy kept it simply elegant.
Click through the gallery above to see other A-listers who made it onto our red carpet winners list.
Runways are for next season, but street style is for now and if there’s one print Londoners rock every time – it’s plaid.
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Coats, blazers, trousers, skirts and accessories – there is no limit to how a London girl will choose to wear this heritage print. What makes it work every time? The check looks as elegant as it does edgy, it just depends on the cut and styling.
For Fall, we recommend elongating your dresses and adding boots while a tailored two-piece looks just as good for the boardroom as it does for dinner.
Click through the gallery above to see more street style inspiration from London Fashion Week.
The third day of London Fashion Week was all about the designers venturing beyond their aesthetic and introducing another side to their vision.
Josep Font knows how to work with shapes and for Delpozo SS19 collection he looked to murano glass artist Fulvio Bianconi for inspiration. This approach added a softness to some of the heavier pieces while the idea of transparency was interpreted through tulle draped across a single shoulder or applied to dress seams in a wave shape.
Frill socks with bulky shoes, buckle choker with a silk scarf, and plenty of lace – it must be Preen by Thornton Bregazzi. The design duo were inspired by Roma Irish Travellers so the collection felt like a fusion of ideas that you pick up along the way as you migrate from place to place. A surprising site were tailored silk and nylon suits which are designed for easy packing that won’t require an iron once you arrive at your dream destination.
Simone Rocha embraced her Chinese background and looked back to the Tang dynasty in the 16th century for the latest collection. We saw the familiar flowers and brocade along with romantic accents such as lace veils and feathers adorning the shoes. She also hand-stitched faces in red thread on white cotton and played with circular shapes. Many designers could risk over complicating their collections with detail, but Rocha seems to find balance between fantasy and wearability.
Roland Mouret presented a collection that aims to represent different voices of women, and this showed in a wide variety of pieces, some more experimental than what we’ve seen before. The fluidity of the cut and sensual silhouettes were all present, but he also added wide leg trousers that sat low as well as sportier elements such as slouchy knits and mesh panels.
Considering Louis Vuitton has only been in the fragrance business for two years, every scent has hit top notes with team A&E.
Since 2016 they have released eight scents for women, a collection for men and now, with their latest muse Emma Stone, they unveil the ninth fragrance for women.
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Louis Vuitton Presents Les Parfums Masculins
The Story Of Louis Vuitton’s Ombre Nomade
Named Attrape-Reves (Dream Catcher), the brand’s Master Perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud wanted to capture the beauty of fleeting moments like a cloud of fireflies and shooting stars. He let himself be guided by an African cacao flower of absolute purity and then added a bouquet of peony.
He reinforced the power of the duo by pairing it with the slightest touch of essence of patchoulol, the heart of patchouli. For elegance, he included lychee and Turkish rose absolute and used ginger with bergamot to amplify the perfume’s contrasts and freshness.
“Each plays its role without ever overpowering the other,” Jacques Cavallier Belletrud explains. “It’s a dialogue between precious ingredients that, in theory, have no reason to cohabit. And yet, on the skin, they converse, interfuse, crepitate and command attention.”
The scent itself feels like the perfect transition from their previous release Le Jour Se Lève that reminded us of happy Mediterranean summers. The warm notes make it a perfect fall scent, but the zesty notes of bergamot remind us to daydream of our next summer escape.
Just like the scent itself, the campaign film shot by Oscar-winning director Sam Mendes is designed to evoke an emotion of a dream, a journey. The sun kissed clips of Stone walking by the ocean and driving along with coastline with a Louis Vuitton trunk strapped to the back of the car are matched with a shot of her on a carrousel and powerfully walking through a station. It evokes a sense of strength and adventure – all while Beyoncé – XO song plays over the top.
Available now at Louis Vuitton boutiques and at louisvuitton.com.
Victoria Beckham marked a decade in the business by showcasing her collection at London Fashion Week for the first time.
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She invited family and friends to Thaddaeus Ropac Gallery on Dover Street, near her flagship store, and had Stella Tennant open in a masculine white suit. Beckham has always been strong in no-fuss tailoring which set the tone for the rest of the collection that felt like it would be a joy to move in. In the show notes she wrote:
“Spring/summer 2019 marks our first decade. This collection looks back, but also forward – it explores the codes of the brand, the identity I’ve built up over 10 years since my first show. Fluid lines, a mix of masculine and feminine, print, an arresting mix of unusual colours – these are our codes.”
The trousers were elegantly tailored with a small slit at the bottom, blazers were layered over flowing skirts. There were also minimalist gowns and her signature perfectly cut coats. There were even sportier elements with stripes, mesh, midriff bearing knits and drawstring dresses.
“There’s a lightness throughout, that feels modern. It’s about dressing not our woman, but our women – reflected in our cast this season, as well as embedded in the clothes,” she added.
All eyes are on London this weekend as leading British brands present their collections, with a number celebrating personal milestones.
Following Mary Katrantzou’s journey, it’s hard to believe that the Greek designer has been part of the fashion scene for a decade. Known for bold prints and inspired by her love for interior and architecture, she paid tribute to some of her most iconic designs during London Fashion Week. The ‘Spring Summer 2019 reiterated the concept of framing and capturing, unifying the disparate and reflecting the collector’s mania for accumulation.’
If there is one man who can make layering easy breezy, it’s Jonathan Anderson. For SS19 collection he focused on fluidity, texture and city-smart bohemia. Out came skirts with scarf hemlines, bib tops, puff sleeve dresses, dad sneakers and shoestring boots. In their detailed complexity, the pieces are simply wearable which is what makes a brand like J.W Anderson so relatable today.
For the Summer 19 show designer Alice Temperley brought together an inspiring cast of muses – model Laura Bailey, actor Helen McCrory and musician Anoushka Shankar to name a few – who personify the ethos of Temperley London; empowered, unique and creative. Her pieces continue to reflect a carefree sensuality that has long been associated with the British brand’s aesthetic. Prints, embroideries and silhouettes inspired by neo-classical architecture are the building blocks of the next season.
If you’ve been following LFW for a while then you’ll be familiar with Molly Goddard. One of the most celebrated newcomers has been gracing the runways, red carpets and some of your favourite e-tailers with her tulle loving dresses in various playful colours.
For SS19 she is taking it down a notch for a more wearable wardrobe, but there’s still plenty of eccentricity. Frills were added to separates such as midi skirts and white cotton shirts and she sent out plenty of perfectly pretty summer dresses. It’s clear she is maturing as a designer by perfectly balancing the quirk with what women want to wear.
Jewellery designer Jacquie Aiche blends her Egyptian Native American heritage into each of her pieces that echo the free spirit and barefoot bohemia.
Designed and handcrafted in Aiche’s Los Angeles studio, the brand continues to be shaped by its founding philosophy of “spreading positive energy, every day” and has a loyal celebrity following that includes Alessandra Ambrosio, Emily Ratajkowski, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Shanina Shaik and Rihanna.
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Morning Coffee With… Andraya Farrag, Founder of Bedouin
Morning Coffee With Egyptian Jewellery Designer Doaa Mohsen
What’s the first thing you do when you get up in the morning?
I start most days with a short meditation. I have practiced meditation for most of my life. It keeps me grounded, grateful, and clear to create.
Three items you can’t live without?
My children, my crystals, and my tribe.
Complete the sentence: I’m happy when…
I’m doing what I love, with the people I love…barefoot and blissful.
How should jewellery make you feel?
Jewellery should make you feel like a goddess the moment it touches the skin. Its meant to enhance your natural beauty – give you that extra golden glow that’s already shining bright within.
How would you summarise your latest collection?
The Spirit collection is earthy, yet elegant. You’ll see a lot of turquoise, lapis, minerals, diamonds and gold, all blended with new motifs that connect you with your spirit. Leaves and feathers have a large presence in the collection, I’ve fallen in love.
What do you love the most about your job?
Working with my tribe and my muses. It’s all about the people who give me the biggest love and always lift me up. And maybe they get me into a little trouble along the way.
What are your plans for the Middle East?
The Middle East has always kept a special place in my heart. I can’t wait to find my tribe there.
What do you do to relax and unwind?
I do Kundalini Yoga and meditate. Each of those practices has a way of putting me in the right head space. It just feels so amazing. And I’ll always love the simple, calming energy of lighting a candle. There is at least one in every room of The Bungalow.
If you could give your younger self one piece of advice, what would it be?
Believe in yourself always, and enjoy the ride.
Did you have a plan B career path?
I can’t imagine a life where I’m without my crystal cravings. I’d probably be practicing crystal healing, or creating essential oils. There’s nothing like giving women something that makes them feel beautiful and empowered. If it wasn’t jewellery, it would be something just as special.
What’s your personal motto?
Find your tribe and love them hard.
How do you want the world to remember you?
I think the thing people remember most is the way you make them feel. I want to be remembered for bringing the love.
Chopard chose 10 Arab women to star in the all new Happy Hearts campaign that is a celebration of local talents.
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Happy Hearts highlights achievements and milestones as well as showing the journey of passion, success and ambition through the voices of the region’s most affluent women in their own fields.
Each one of these women represents the “Happy Hearts” in their own special way, through their individual lives and careers. Caroline Scheufele, Co-President of Chopard, said in a statement:
“If I were to associate Chopard with a motif, it would be a Big Heart because there is a family behind it”.
Click through the gallery above to meet the inspiring women from the region.
Are you sitting comfortably? Good, because it’s time for the Michael Kors SS19 show.
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Live from New York Fashion Week, we present you front row – or even better than front row – access to the American designers latest collection.
From the look of the promotional images and videos posted on the brand’s Instagram, expect plenty of floral print, rich tones and – in true Kors style – statement accessories carried by all the major models.
While gazing at the pieces you’ll be wearing next summer, take a quick peek at the front row as normally it’s packed with all the A-Listers.
Happy watching and stay tuned for our review.
If there’s one online destination that guarantees you winning the style game, it’s Mr Porter and now they have launched a special project with Brunello Cucinelli.
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A 60 piece day-into-evening transitional capsule is available now with a special Journal story revealed tomorrow. Fiona Firth, Buying Director at Mr Porter, said in a statement:
“We’re thrilled to work with Brunello Cucinelli on such a special project – The collection is all-encompassing, and features pieces that transcend well beyond seasons, trends and generations. We feel confident that our customers will respond well to the offering.”
The collection spans 35 pieces of ready-to-wear, eight footwear and 17 accessories – all designed with Brunello Cucinelli’s understated, relaxed and luxe approach to everyday dress and multigenerational style.
The Journal story, which will debut on Thursday, celebrates the day in the life of two Italian fencers, both of different generations, whose sport and style inform their day into evening and overall approach to life.
Stock up your wardrobe this Fall with shearling outerwear in aviator, sporty knitwear, neatly tailored beige sea island cotton-corduroy suit jacket and trouser as well as a variety of everyday shoes and leather bags suitable for any occasion.
This season London has some big names on the schedule, including emerging Middle Eastern talent, and have introduced a major change in the name of ethical fashion.
London Fashion Week is the first to make a positive move by banning fur from all their runway shows. This fur-free attitude has recently been adopted by Burberry, but never before has the initiative been rolled out across the whole event.
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Speaking of Burberry, Riccardo Tisci who has been keeping hush hush about his debut and will finally reveal his vision for the house on September 17, with the collection available to shop 30 minutes afterwards from your Instagram.
Riccardo Tisci, Vivienn-Westwood and her husband Andreas Kronthaler.
Courtesy of Burberry, by Brett Lloyd.
Victoria Beckham has skipped New York to bring her anniversary show to London and from her tongue and cheek campaign reveal, we expect some happy vibes but with plenty of style. She is also celebrating 10 years in the industry by making an appearance at her flagship store from 3pm on the day of her catwalk show, September 16.
Anya Hindmarch is bringing some humour and culture to the week with a chubby cloud installation at Whitehall’s Banqueting House. Rest your feet on the world’s biggest beanbag, inspired by the cloud theme in her FW18 collection, and admire the 17th century Rubens ceiling.
Last year, newbie designer Richard Quinn made headline by having the Queen of England sit front row at his show. This time he might not have a royal audience, but it’s going to be one of the hottest tickets of the week.
Middle Eastern designers are flying the flag for the region with Three Fifty Nine, Also Freedom, LOU and Dubai-based Sheen showcasing their creations.
For the shortest fashion week on the calendar, it sure packs a punch.
Here at team A&E we love all things fashion and beauty, so when the two worlds come together you know we’ll be the first in line to try it.
During New York Fashion Week SS19, it as revealed that two of our favourite American born brands are coming together to create a capsule makeup line.
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One is the Manhattan-born designer Ulla Johnson is known for her romantically bohemian collections that consist of flowing dresses with beautiful finishing and flattering silhouettes. The other name in the hat is Bobbi Brown, the cosmetics giant who knows how to make a woman’s face look spectacular with minimum effort. So mixing the free spirit of both brands seems like a no brainer.
WWD reports that makeup artist Romy Soleimani was spotted using lab samples of some of the potential products backstage at the brand’s SS19 show. We are still to learn of what to expect of the partnership or the release date, but from the mention of ‘nude palettes’ and a peek at the two cream highlighters in rose gold and a sheer pearlescent shade, we expect something that will give us a flawlessly dewy complexion.
It was a busy day for fashion goers in New York with the likes of Calvin Klein and Oscar De La Renta presenting their SS19 collections.
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Raf Simons once again turned to his love of cinema for inspiration, but as always he likes to dive into the sinister and this time it was the movie Jaws. The runway was covered in blood red carpet, the back wall had a projection of water and models came out with wet hair wearing deconstructed pieces such as pleated skirt that literally looked like a shark took a bite out of it.
There was plenty of Jaws merchandise such as vests and short-sleeved sweatshirts, as well as other film references like wetsuits and beanie hats. As with his previous show, he offered something a little softer too with sixties shift dresses and boxy blazers in reference to movie The Graduate – but it’s the shark that had real bite.
Oscar De La Renta’s show was all about the ‘woman who wanders in style’. Design duo Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia opened with a series of draped dresses in scarf print referencing Kim’s recent trip to Morocco and Garcia’s travels to India.
The undone silhouettes and pyjama sets showcased a more relaxed vision for the brand long associated with red carpet dressing. There was plenty for every day, but the designers didn’t forget the clients who seek evening glamour so we saw canary yellow off shoulder gown, but styled with sandals, sheer baroque lace dresses in black and a feathered number with an embellished bodice and fringed skirt.
Upon entering the Coach show space, you are met 20 feet tall Bronty, i.e a dinosaur made from scavenged materials found across the U.S. The SS19 collection was dedicated to the dreamers and road trippers who pick up pieces along the way and combine them into effortless looks that resist time and trends.
Our eyes were on the outerwear, specifically fringed leather jackets, while our favourite Disney characters received a more sinister treatment that adored sweatshirts and T-shirts, many of which were styled over prairie floral dresses and skirts. The mismatch was surprising, but then again the youth of today seek that freedom of dressing and Coach delivers.
It was a welcome site to see Proenza Schouler back with their current muse Amber Valletta walking out in ‘real’ clothes. The design duo wanted to bring an idea of wearability that was still fashionable, but not overly complicated.
The collection was packed undone silhouettes and plenty of denim enhanced by tie-dye and metallic accents. They manipulated various tones of denim in creative ways and presented sculpted dresses, oversized coats, tailored jackets and A-line skirts with overlapped hem lines.
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Making his official debut was Wes Gordon for Carolina Herrera who showcased a youthful vision for the iconic brand known for occasion dressing. Of course there was plenty of evening glamour with full skirts that swept the floor, balloon sleeves, sheer panels and layers of voluminous tulle, but it was the bright colour palette, neat tailoring and cute mini skirts that really signalled the fresh spirit at the House.
“I want women to really look like women from today. It’s not from the past and not from the future, because I don’t know what happens in the future. it is the woman of today I think is a seductive woman,” he wrote in his Instagram page.
Zimmermann is a kind of brand that makes us greatful for the never ending summer in Dubai, and next season their pieces feel even stronger. As you’d expect, there’s plenty of sensual bohemia to admire but the Aussie-based brand is also offering more bold prints and statement separates.
For grace and understated beauty, The Row once again shined bright in a subtle manner. Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen focused on extreme volume and silk for SS19 while also offering a variation on neutral tones such as nude, black and navy. While other brands may look to logomania and sportswear, The Row remains pure with exquisite craftsmanship.
During Couture Fashion Week FW18, four of the top fashion houses paid tribute to their founders.
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Karl Lagerfeld had bookstalls filled with Coco Chanel biographies, while Clare Waight Keller took inspiration from Hubert De Givenchy’s archives. These icons influence not only today’s fashion, but also beauty.
See their latest collections below.
DIOR
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: Dior Backstage Glow Face Palette in 001 Universal, Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation in 2 Neutral, Diorshow Brow Styler in 001 Brown, Dior Backstage Brow Palette in 001 Light, Dior Backstage Lip Palette in 001 Universal Neutrals, Diorskin Forever Undercover Concealer in 030 Medium Beige, Dior Backstage Eye Palette in 002 Cool Neutrals. Books: Dior by Dior: The Autobiography of Christian Dior – Special Edition, Christian Dior and the South of France: The Château de la Colle Noire.
GIORGIO ARMANI BEAUTY
FROM TOP DOWN:
Giorgio Armani Lip Magnet (short bottle) in 500 Maharajah, Giorgio Armani Power Fabric longwear foundation in 5, Giorgio Armani Lip Maestro in 518 Paparazzi Pink, Giorgio Armani Mascara in Obsidian Black. Book: Giorgio Armani Deluxe Edition.
GIVENCHY BEAUTY
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:
Givenchy Beauty L’Intemporel Blossom compact day cream, Givenchy Beauty Gloss Révélateur Magic Lip Gloss in 03 Electric Pink, Givenchy Beauty Le Rouge Liquide in L’interdit 309, Givenchy Beauty Prismer Primer 06. Book: Hubert de Givenchy.
CHANEL
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
Chanel Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Palette in 306 Splendeur et Audace, Chanel Ombre Premiére cream eyeshadow in 838 Ultra Flesh, Chanel Ombre Premiére powder eyeshadow in 44 Bleu Sélène, Chanel Le Rouge Crayon de Couleur Mat lip crayon in 257 Discrétion, Chanel Stylo Ombre et Contour eyeshadow liner in 04 Electric Brown. Books: Set of three Assouline Chanel by Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni, Vincent Meylan and Martine Marcowith.
Styling and Direction: Diana Bell-Heather
Photographer: Henry Pascual
For the first time Dior will have a men’s pre-fall runway show, and Kim Jones is taking it to Tokyo.
According to WWD the presentation is scheduled for November 30, and Japan was chosen as a way to further connect the house with the Asian market, and to reflect the designers love for the country.
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“A fashion show in Tokyo is the best way to present and celebrate my first Dior pre-fall men’s show. Japan is a magical country that I know quite well and that I love particularly for its incredible and unique culture, history and nature, which have always been very fascinating and a great source of inspiration to me,” he said in a statement.
Two days before the show, a pop up will open at department store Isetan which is located in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district. It will house Jones’s first ever collection for Dior, the SS19 line, while simultaneously being available at the flagship in Ginza before globally rolling out in December.
For his debut SS19 show in Paris, the British creative offered rich and couture-level pieces that are a perfect example of luxurious wearability. The collection was light, colourful and – for all purposes of the word – happy – which is a step away from the edgy designs that we’ve seen previously.
Will Pre-Fall offer something a little bit more laid back and sporty but with familiar Dior signatures? We’ll have to wait and see.
IWC Schaffhausen continues to celebrate 150 years with their Museum Jubilee Roadshow making a stop in the Dubai Mall this month.
The exclusive and iconic collection, usually housed at IWC’s museum in Schaffhausen, will now be on show at the brand’s store from 17 to 30 September as part of the Museum Jubilee Roadshow.
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It’s not every day that you get to see an 1875 Savonnette pocket watch with a Jones calibre in person, but now watch enthusiasts, collectors and customers will have an opportunity to experience the past, present and future of the Swiss watch manufacturer.
On exhibit will be four sets of timepieces and each will highlight the history behind the individual creations. Mehdi Rajan, IWC Regional Brand Director Middle East, India and Africa said:
“Having the opportunity to bring IWC’s most iconic and historic timepieces to Dubai makes the brand’s 150-year anniversary celebration even more special.”
IWC customers who cannot make it to the boutique have the freedom to view the collection from the comfort of their own homes with the IWC Museum app, now avail- able on iOS and Google Play.
Business Of Fashion put together an annual list of men and women who are shaping the industry today, and this year two female Middle Eastern entrepreneurs made the cut.
To mark the reveal, BoF celebrated in New York last night with 96 new names from the world of design, editorial, technology and modelling, including The Modist’s founder Ghizlan Guenez and Marriam Mossalli who launched the Saudi Arabia-based Niche Arabia.
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The founder of Dubai-based e-commerce platform that offers women round the world a stylish and demure way of dressing has only been operating the online destination for 18 months, but it has had a global impact on the ‘modest’ movement. In our February issue interview she said:
“There are many misperceptions around modesty being traditional, boring, dull and many other things, and at The Modist we take pleasure in breaking these stereotypes. Modesty can be fashion forward, trendy, fresh, and cool. It also does not relate to just one religion or region, and it transcends faiths and backgrounds.”
Mossalli not only started Niche Arabia but is also the author of the much acclaimed Under The Abaya that documents the vibrant street style in Saudi Arabia.
They weren’t the only ones to show the strength of the regional market with Khalid Al Tayer, the CEO of Al Tayer Insignia, Alain Bejanni, CEO of Majid Al Futtaim, Badr Al Deghaither, the CEO of Saudi Jawahir Trading, Mohamed Alabbar and Ronaldo Mouchawar, the CEO of Souq.com also making the list.
Elsa Schiaparelli was a maverick of her time, and continues to inspire daring couturiers of today.
There are a handful of designers that you can confidently say changed the face of fashion. Elsa Schiaparelli was undoubtedly one of them.
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With no design background and entering the world of fashion at 37, she transformed the way women dress, and influenced the dramatic glamour that we see on the runway today.
It was her who first penned the skirt/trouser silhouette that we now call culottes, and it was her who started using zips as a fashion feature. Above all, she is the creator of the bright pink hue dubbed “Schiaparelli pink” (which some refer to as ‘shocking pink’).
Whether she intentionally wanted to shock, or was naturally a daring personality, it’s up for debate, but her rebellious streak from a young age and the vibrant people she surrounded herself with fuelled her bold personality that translated into some of the most iconic pieces of fashion.
EARLY YEARS
Elsa Schiaparelli was born in 1890, in the Corsini palace in Rome. With a father who was the director of the Lincei library and a professor of Oriental literature, an astronomer grandfather and a mother descended from the Medicis, she grew up in a family of aristocrats and intellectuals.
She studied philosophy, even though her dream was to become an actress, and in 1911 published a collection of overtly sensual poems; Arethusa. When her parents learnt about it, she was sent to a convent in Switzerland. However, she was not the type of person you could ‘lock up’ and shortly she left after going on hunger strike.
She set off for London in 1913 with one of her sister’s friends to help to look after her children. When she was attending a conference on theology by Count Wilhelm Wendt de Kerlor, she fell under the charm of this young theosophist who she married in 1914 and left London for New York in 1916, after spending several seasons in Nice.
On the liner taking them to New York, Elsa formed a friendship with Gabrielle Picabia, the wife of the Dada painter. This encounter would introduce Elsa into the circle of the avant-garde artists of the time: Man Ray, Marcel Duchamp and Edward Steichen, among others.
The young couple lived on Elsa’s dowry, which was disappearing at the speed of light. Their daughter Yvonne, nicknamed Gogo, was born in 1920 and very soon contracted poliomyelitis. Juggling her Bohemian lifestyle, part-time jobs, her husband’s repeated absences and taking care of her daughter, Elsa soon separated from her husband.
FIRST STEPS
In 1922, she moved to Paris with her daughter because Europe seemed to be ahead in terms of the treatments that Gogo needed. During the day, Elsa worked at an antique dealer’s and in the evenings, she frequented the famous restaurant, Le Bœuf sur le Toit, which attracted the Paris smart set.
Her circle of artist friends grew. One day, Elsa accompanied a friend to a fitting at Paul Poiret, the greatest couturier of the age. He was immediately charmed when he saw her try on a few designs while she was waiting, Poiret suggested that Elsa could borrow several designs – after all she seemed like a great advert for his pieces. This experience of a couture house, luxury, quality, design, colours, materials, embroidery and shapes lit a spark in Elsa that would prove to be one of the turning points in her life.
In the mid-1920s, Elsa Schiaparelli let her creativity flourish and became a freelance designer. She joined forces with a friend who had acquired a brand that had fallen into decline. Elsa soon regained her independence so that she could express herself to the full. Her simple yet radical, ingenious idea was a hand-knit pullover with a black and white trompe-l’œil motif. This sweater was immediately deemed a “masterpiece” by Vogue and the United States made it a star product within a few months.
INTRODUCING, SCHIAPARELLI
Although she founded her company in her own apartment in 1927, the business really took off the following year when she set up ateliers, salons and offices at 4, rue de la Paix with “Schiaparelli – Pour le Sport” (Schiaparelli – Sportswear) on the door plate. The collection of knitwear pieces was fleshed out with swimsuits, beach pyjamas and accessories. This blend of Haute Couture and sportswear had such an impact across the pond that American textile manufacturers offered her first licensing agreements.
From then on, the collections followed hot on the heels of each other at the rate of four presentations a year. Elsa surrounded herself with the best talent: Jean Schlumberger, Jean Clément and then Lina Baretti for jewellery, Jean-Michel Frank for the decoration and design of the fragrance bottles, Pérugia and Roger Vivier for shoes, Lesage for embroidery, and Marcel Vertès and Raymond Peynet for advertising. Her reputation was such that she became the first female fashion designer to be featured on the cover of the American magazine Time in 1934.
From the outset, Elsa and her designs for women with a strong and independent personality attracted famous customers: Wallis Simpson, the future Duchess of Windsor (whose trousseau would bear the Schiaparelli label), Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, Greta Garbo and Daisy Fellowes.
She opened a store and salons in London and an office in New York. After the launch of her first fragrance “S” in 1928, she presented a collection of three perfumes – Soucis, Salut and Schiap – in 1934. The next year, the Couture House took over the Hotel de Fontpertuis, 21 place Vendôme: five floors, 98 rooms, over 700 employees and a ground-floor boutique with a view of the Vendôme column.
THE COLLABORATION
The 1930s marked her most famous collaborations: Salvador Dali, with whom she created now-legendary pieces such as suits with bureau-drawer pockets, a shoe-hat, a lobster-printed dress, a skeleton dress, the tear dress and Le Roy soleil perfume bottle. She also joined creative forces with Jean Cocteau, whose drawings featured on coats, evening ensembles and jewellery.
In 1937 she launched the perfume Shocking and the colour “shocking pink”. The fragrance, whose bottle designed by Léonor Fini represented a dressmaker’s dummy following the curves of Mae West, decorated with porcelain flowers and a velvet measuring tape, was an unprecedented success. Elsa then had a chromatic vision: she invented shocking pink, a pure, vibrant, undiluted, intense and lively pigment.
NEXT
Second World War put a pause on Elsa’s creative drive which saw her leave Paris to give a series of conferences across the United States. Over the next few years she operated from New York while her right hand man took care of the couture house in Paris. It wasn’t till 1945 when she got to present another collection for the brand and later took part in the travelling exhibition Théâtre de la Mode across the United States. Hubert de Givenchy was hired as the creative director of the Schiaparelli boutique two years later.
Despite the many successes, an increasing number of licences in the United States (she was the first to launch a line of designer sunglasses), and good sales for her perfumes, Elsa noted that the world of Haute Couture had changed. She decided to close her Couture House in 1954 to devote herself to her autobiography Shocking Life. She died in her sleep in 1973.
RETURN OF SCHIAPARELLI
It was 60 years until we saw another couture collection from the Maison which took place in January 2014, during Paris Haute Couture week. It was a year later that Bertrand Guyon was appointed design director in charge of Haute Couture and Prêt-à-Couture collections.
Since then boutique-salons opened within the Couture House, 21 place Vendôme and in 2017, Schiaparelli was awarded an official Haute Couture label by the French Ministry of Industry and the French Couture Federation.
Under Guyon’s creative eye and archives of Elsa’s work, Schiaparelli continues to push the boundaries of couture, echoing the vision of a woman who always was ahead of time.