Kim Jones debut collection for Dior Homme during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris highlighted the romantic and fun side of the brand.
British designer seems to have understood the heritage and the codes of the Maison from the get go, offering rich and couture-level pieces that are a perfect example of luxurious wearability. The collection is light, colourful and – for all purposes of the word – happy, which is a step away from the edgy designs that we saw from Kris Van Assche.
As the guests, including Victoria Beckham, Kate Moss, Robert Pattinson and Naomi Campbell, made themselves comfortable in the Garde Républicaine barracks, and took a few snaps of the 10-meter-tall flower-covered sculpture by street artist KWAS, the show opened with white and pastel blue easy-breezy separates styled on Prince Nikolai of Denmark, and continued into more of this ‘pretty’ masculinity.
If Jones was nervous about his debut, he didn’t show it. He pushed the savoir-faire associated with the House to thrillingly new and modern heights with a wide use of delicate embroidery and modern transparency. Echoing Virgil Abloh’s fresh approach to a historical Maison, the Off-White designer presented his first collection for Louis Vuitton last week and was sitting front row at Dior, the new vision is instantly appealing.
Where before the tailoring was strict, now it is loose with single button kimono styles in dusty pinks and neutrals. He used floral and bee motifs on bomber jackets and shirts, tiny shorts made an appearance which helped us get a closer look at the trainers with bungee clips over laces, as well as slim high-tops with Dior logo print.
With a weight of the Dior legacy on his shoulders, Jones appears to be breezing through this new challenge and this confidence makes for a winning collection.
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