Since taking the helm almost 5 months ago, Georges Kern has already made an impact on Breitling. From completely revamping the entire company and brand, starting with the logo which is now a stylised B first used in the late 1940s, to swiftly changing the management team and bringing in new expertise, Kern is leading the storied brand into a new future. The intent is to show that Breitling is not only about aviation or the oceans, but a brand offering watches to a new younger and varied customer base.

A specialist of technical watches, Breitling has played a crucial role in the development of the wrist chronograph and is a leader in this complication. The firm has shared all the finest moments in the conquest of the skies thanks to its sturdy, reliable and high-performance instruments. One of the world’s only major watch brands to equip all its models with chronometer-certified movements, the ultimate token of precision, Breitling is also one of the rare companies to produce its own mechanical chronograph movements, entirely developed and manufactured in its own workshops. These historical factors that have built the brand are what Kern has delved back in the archives towards, digging deep into its historical roots, to produce period correct re-editions. These will of course satisfy classical Breitling collectors, while the new Navitimer 8 collection intended towards attracting new clients.

Here we take the opportunity to speak to the innovative CEO during the second stop of Breitling’s #legendaryfuture roadshow in Europe, where he unveils the thinking behind the brands new identity, the concept of discovering and analyzing Breitling’s glorious past, together with the potential for future re-editions.

What is your vision for Breitling?

Let’s try to make it simple. What we want to do is enlarge our offering beyond aviation and totally align the DNA of the brand between our core price segment. Breitling is today offering hardcore, strong, big, modern pilot watches, and thanks to this the brand has been extremely successful. However, I think by considering the history of the brand we can go beyond aviation. Breitling was very innovative with divers watches and more elegant watches in the past, and I think we have phenomenal potential to enlarge our offering of these to reach a new customer base, not only in Europe and the United States, but also in Asia where we have to develop ourselves, together with also enlarging our storytelling to communicate what the brand stands for. The brand has to reach out to millennials and we have to change the way we communicate. We will also reallocate resources digitally, because the customer base has changed, and we have the potential to go beyond aviation, as one doesn’t exclude the other. We do still want to stick to what we have, which has been very successful for us in the past, but I think adapting the communication and reaching out will gain us a truly global customer base, which makes sense considering our DNA.

Why did you decide to go on with the Navitimer 8 line specifically?

Because today if you look at the collection at Breitling we have modern, hardcore, pilot watches, but the brand has existed for many years and we have now been inspired by history. The new line is a throwback to 1938, and the instrumentation needs of the then growing military and civil aviation sectors. This was a new specialist department which developed, manufactured, and tested instruments and watches for use in demanding conditions. The design elements of the new Navitimer 8 are rooted in these design elements, and by adding this more classic and conservative product to the current offering we will gain a new customer base.

What can we expect to see at Basel this year?

This year will be an intense year, we are going to have more novelties on the Navitimer 1, the classic of the classics in our collection. There will be one great talking piece, and in the second half of the year we are going to launch a more elegant line which is also based on a historical Breitling piece.

In terms of partnerships, can we look forward to seeing more collaborations?

We want to cover three areas, air, sea, and land. So, with air we have our jet team which is the largest civilian aerobatic display team in Europe. Based in Dijon, it flies seven Czech Aero L-39 Albatros jets. Concerning Land, we have our collaboration with Bentley and also Norton motorcycles, and when it comes to Sea we need to reinforce our relationship with this area, so we will be announcing our corporate social responsibility involvement in that sense in the coming weeks.

Where is the woman in the world of Breitling?

60% of the watch market is female watches, which is a huge share. Breitling has been extremely successful with women’s watches in the past, particularly with sports watches, and we are going to relaunch such lines next year, and of course reinforce that segment where the brand was very strong in the past.

What are the objectives that you would still aim to achieve at Breitling this year?

We have now had the new team in charge for around five months and it has been very intense. It is like a football team, there are a group of talented people, and we have to find a way to smoothly work together. It has been a phenomenally positive experience so far, which is why we have been able to quickly develop what we are now presenting. We have a very strong product launch program, including an upcoming advertising campaign which will be very interesting as it is different. We are also rolling out our new boutique concept which has a loft and industrial feel to it, together with the new Dubai flagship store opening.

Speaking of boutiques, you also have third party sellers, what is your strategy to maintain a coherent message between you, the distributors, and where the watches are sold?

To take the example of the Middle East, we are going to open a subsidiary in the region based in Dubai, and we are going to have a local team who will concentrate on marketing and sales. This is a focus for us are we are doing well in the Middle East, where there is a strong connection to aviation, with many locals choosing to wear our products. In some countries we are buying back our own distribution networks, together with working with agents to integrate most of our markets, bringing us closer to the clients and closer to our partners. I think the strong link with our retailers is very important, and this is why we are doing road shows.

As we meet you at a road show, is this the new direction for exhibiting new timepieces, and do you think the concept of fairs is dying out?

Yes, I think so. I have experienced the road show concept now in China, Singapore, and Japan, and although it is more intense and tiring for us, I have met many more customers and clients than before. It has been a super-efficient format for us to communicate what we are doing, so I do feel that fairs need to evolve to be more of a communication platform like fashion shows. I don’t think you need a fair to sell a watch in a digital age anymore, and they need to change to cope with the reality of the market.

What is your strategy to stay ahead of the competition?

When you really think about it, there are actually not that many strong brands in the same category. You have upscale brands doing mid to high complications, and you have generalistic brands at a lower price point. But, at our price point you have three or four competitors, and we have the potential to be strong in this segment and offer an alternative to the established brands, because of our DNA, the new communication we will put in place, and the new products. By enlarging the offering in our core price point I am quite confident that we are doing the right thing.

How do you approach change?

In general terms, the first thing I have been doing is going through the history, talking to collectors and retailers to recognise the strengths and the weaknesses of the brand and to appreciate the roots and fully understand the DNA. What is very interesting at Breitling is that you have a huge community of collectors of vintage watches that is totally disconnected from the community of the current Breitling owners, which I have never experienced previously with other brands.

This disconnection needed to be addressed, and we really want to bridge those communities in order to also gain back clients who are looking for more than what we offer today.

What made you change the logo?

I don’t know one successful brand on the planet with different logos, and we were in a position where we had different logos on different lines. We needed to make a choice and settle with one logo, so we looked into our archives and went towards the original logo of the 50s and 60s, because we are more than just aviation watches, and needed a generic logo, which I believe is more elegant and you can see its historical links when you see our exhibition.

Tell us about your plans to certify second-hand watches?

It is astonishing as there is a secondary market in every industry, whereas in the watch industry there is a lot of grey market, with non-certified products and you don’t know where these watches have come from and who was the owner. So, I think as a supplier we must help the market to become more structured, giving reassurance to the customer. There are many people out there who want to buy a pre-owned watch because it is at a lower price, if it is certified by the supplier or company, and this is what we are going to put in place, working together with partners. We can service these re-owned watches, certify them, and give them one or two years of guarantee, creating reassurance for the customer, rather than going to a grey market side where you don’t know whether the product is even genuine.

What is one challenge that you haven’t achieved yet?

We have the objective to make Breitling one of the most successful watch brands, and I think it has the potential. The fact that the brand is already in the top five in huge markets, proves that globally it can also achieve, and this is the aim. We certainly want to conquer new markets like Hong Kong and China in particular, but I think it is a proven concept due to its top five position in many markets, so why not be in the top five on a global level.

What do you promise yourself in 2018 and what do you promise your Breitling team?

For Breitling it is to make an even greater brand from what is already a great brand, and for my team and myself it is to be successful and have a lot of fun.

Can you share with us your life lesson?

Be passionate about what you are doing, otherwise you should drop it.

How would you describe Breitling?

Cool, tasteful, and with a strong DNA.

How would you like the world to remember you?

I don’t think I’m going to be a legend, but I would like to be remembered as being successful in what I have done, whilst being disruptive in the way I have done it, and also for being a nice chap!

Whose wrist would you like to see Breitling on?

As many as possible!

The perfect trouser suit is a secret wardrobe weapon with endless styling possibilities, and its impeccable tailoring is what Racil Chalhoub based her London-based concept line on. Launched in 2015, her contemporary tuxedos feature bold colourways and feminine silhouettes, making them a wardrobe essential for modern power dressers. Quite possibly the best masculine item women have ever made their own, founder and designer Racil reinvented the classic Le Smoking with a thoroughly modern eye, building her entire label around the tailored staple, complementing the multi-coloured jackets with silk slip dresses, cotton shirts and cigarette trousers.

Racil Chalhoub was born in Beirut, grew up in Paris, and is now based in London, where she launched her eponymous label. Before that, she ran a unique fashion concept store and organic cafe, nestled in an authentic Lebanese house in the artsy district of Gemmayze, where she started her career in fashion as a buyer for 8 years, closely observing what women want.

In an exclusive interview, we caught up with Racil to find out how she became what she wanted to be, why the tuxedo remains a perennial wardrobe item, and what’s next for the growing label.

What inspired you to become a designer and launch Racil?

I studied Fashion Design & Marketing in London but wasn’t ready to start designing when I graduated, so I moved to Beirut and opened the first concept store in the region with my childhood best friend, a boutique, café and bakery under the roof of an authentic Lebanese house. That was my first adventure, I ran the fashion side of ‘Kitsch’, did all the buying, merchandising and dealt closely with clients for 8 years until I felt that I hit a crossroad in my career. I needed something new and had the itch to start designing, which is what I always wanted to do. As soon as I felt ready, I moved back to London full time, and focused on launching my brand.

‘In a tuxedo you are neither exposed as overdressed nor underdressed.’- Racil Chalhoub

When did you first realise that you wanted to be a fashion designer?

I have always dreamt of becoming a fashion designer ever since I was 10 years old, when my mother took me to a fashion show in Paris.

Tell us about the process behind launching your own label?

I was living between Beirut and London at the time. I moved back to London full time and took a year to figure everything out. There is so much to do, such as setting up a company and all the legal paperwork. I then put together my inspirations and moodboards, worked on my brand identity, did all the drawings for my first collection, as well as all the research in order to find suppliers and manufacturers. I made a list and took it one step at a time. I then launched Racil 14 months later in Paris.

Why did you choose to focus on tailoring and tuxedos?

It was a ‘want’. I have always been a fan of tailored jackets, and even like wearing them over a long boho dress. I owned so many black blazers and felt like a Tuxedo would be a great upgrade. When I couldn’t find one that fitted me and my lifestyle, as everything was either too androgynous, not feminine enough, or too corporate, I decided to create it and a whole world around it.

Do you feel that your upbringing across different countries has influenced your designs and helped you create an individual brand?

I feel very lucky to have lived in different cities, it gives you a great richness, but I don’t think it has necessarily influenced my designs per se. Paris gave me that passion for fashion and elegance, Beirut gave me my core ethics, and London taught me that fashion rules are made to be broken! So, I guess I did pick up something from each city.

Why did you settle on London as your base for Racil?

I was already living between Beirut and London, but really felt like I needed to be in Europe or the US to do this. I had my flat in London where I always felt at home, so it felt natural to come back here to start my brand. I was thinking of moving to New York for a hot minute, but then it would have been too much ‘new’ to deal with at once, a new city, new work, and new friends.

Who is the Racil woman?

She is one hell of a woman! The Racil woman can be 22 or 82 but she likes to live life to the fullest, she is confident and elegant above all. She is playful and a little daring too.

What is your bestseller?

My signature Tuxedo jacket in black double-breasted with shawl lapel.

What sets a Racil tuxedo apart from others on the market?

It has flair and is easy to wear. It can be worn in the day with trainers and a t-shirt, or in the evening dressed up with heels and some earrings. It is very versatile.

Tell us about your typical day and the design process at Racil?

I wake up at 6.45, and scroll through my phone before jumping out of bed. I make my first cup of coffee, answer urgent emails, and try to squeeze in a workout before heading out to the studio.

Once I am there I hardly leave during the day. I sit with development and production, and then with my studio and sales manager. Depending on what stage of the season we are at, I will spend more time with one side of the team. When it is design time, I normally lock myself up at home for days and put together my new concept, pick fabrics, and do all my drawings from my dining room table- turned desk.

Do you have a favourite moment in the process?

I must say I enjoy the full process, although I love creating the designs and seeing them come together the most. The design and development process can be a long one, so it is so exciting to see a drawing come to life when the first samples arrive.

What is your secret to switching off and relaxing?

That’s a tough one. I find it very difficult to switch off to be perfectly honest. In London I will switch my phone off and go for a long walk in Hyde park, otherwise I actually need to get out of the city for a couple of days.

What is key to keeping your tuxedos modern when designing them?

A lot of attention to detail, and a comfortable fit.

Can you share with us the inspirations behind your current SS18 collection?

I took a trip to Japan last year and that was the main inspiration for SS18, entitled ‘Memories of Gion’.

Is there one piece that is a favourite, or you are particularly proud of?

My Tuxedo jacket. I am happy to have created a signature product that women want to get multiples of.

What drives and motivates you to design each new collection?

I love what I do! So definitely passion, but also my customers! When someone tells me they love a piece they bought, it makes me want to keep giving them more and better each season. I am always so thrilled when I see a woman in clothes I designed, or when they tell me how great they felt in one of my outfits.

Can you share with us your career highlights so far?

Launching the brand in 2015, and then seeing a rail with my name on it in some of my favourite stores worldwide.

Who have you been most excited to see wearing your clothes, and who would you like to see wearing them?

Women on the street, women I don’t know. It always makes me so happy because I know they loved the piece and chose to wear it. That means the world to me. I would love to see Bianca Jagger and Iris Apfel in my clothes.

How would you describe your personal style?

Sophisticated, bohemian, and a little daring.

What is your failsafe outfit?

Jeans, a white t-shirt and a black Tuxedo jacket, and if at night I add large earrings.

Do you go for heels or flats?

Flats in the day, and heels at night.

Have you got a style muse?

Bianca Jagger and my mother!

To what extent is your personal taste and style reflected in Racil?

It is very much present. I am a woman designing for women, and couldn’t create anything that I don’t love or wouldn’t wear.

How should women approach tailoring, and should every woman have a tuxedo in her wardrobe?

Absolutely! In a tuxedo you are never under-dressed nor over-dressed. It is such a fail-proof outfit, and can carry you from day to night so easily. It is also so versatile, meaning you can get so many different wears out of it.

What are your styling tips for women when they wear tuxedos?

Less is more. Just wear it and own the room when you walk in! Don’t be afraid to dress it up or down, and also mix it with other pieces in your wardrobe. Your Tuxedo jacket is meant to become your bestie.

How do you feel your brand has evolved since its launch?

It has evolved quite a lot. It went from being a capsule of 20 mostly black pieces, to a collection of about 80 to 100 different items in different colours and fabrications. We have also added dresses for the odd night where you want to hang your Tuxedo jacket up, and accessories too.

What is the secret to a successful label?

I am not sure. Focus, discipline, and determination I would say.

What can we expect from the next chapter of Racil?

That is a surprise. There are many more chapters to come…

By Eliza Scarborough

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A&E Interviews: Yasmin Al Mulla

Since its introduction, the Bentley Bentayga has defined a new sector and set the luxury SUV benchmark, offering customers the ultimate Grand Touring experience unrestricted by landscape or conditions. The award-winning Bentley model is now available in its most sporting guise to date, the Bentayga V8.

At the heart of the latest Bentayga model is a new-generation 4.0-litre, twin-turbocharged V8 petrol engine which combines immense power with impressive fuel efficiency. The addition of a characteristic V8 burble, stylish twin-quad exhaust pipes and optional carbon-ceramic brakes, reveals more of the luxury SUV’s sporting character.

Sitting at the core of the Bentayga range, the new V8 model fuses exquisite luxury with power, usability, and extensive sporting ability. Its responsive performance is fully customisable on demand by the driver through Bentley’s Drive Dynamics system, from limousine-like refinement to sporting precision.

Inside, customers will recognise Bentley’s unique approach to modern luxury tailoring, with the familiar blend of exquisite handcrafted materials and advanced technologies. New styling features include a wood and hide steering wheel and the introduction of a high-gloss carbon-fibre interior panel finish.

The exterior design of the Bentayga V8 reflects the model’s sporting position within the Bentayga family. The shape is defined by the Bentayga’s unique muscular, sculptural lines, balancing athleticism with an unmistakable presence on the road. From the four round LED headlamps to the large matrix grille, the Bentayga V8 exudes the Bentley design DNA, while the overt powerline, large rear haunches and raised ride height reflect the rugged off-road ability of the luxury SUV.

For the first time, optional carbon-ceramic brakes are offered on the Bentayga. The braking system is the largest and most powerful ever fitted to a Bentley, and the largest front brake system available on any production car. Also introduced on the Bentayga V8 are sporting red brake calipers for the front and rear standard iron brakes. The calipers are painted in special, high-temperature resistant Tornado red paint, and signal strongly the dynamic intent of this performance-oriented Bentayga V8.

The Bentayga V8 is available with Bentley Dynamic Ride, the world’s first electric active roll control technology that utilises a 48V system. This system instantly counteracts lateral rolling forces when cornering and ensures maximum tyre contact to deliver class-leading cabin stability, ride comfort and exceptional handling. Bentley’s adaptive and reactive system provides variable torsional resistance, allowing the Bentayga to be both dynamically capable and comfortable for all occupants at all times. The pioneering use of a 48V system results in silent, instantaneous responses to deal with all road surfaces.

A suite of state-of-the-art driver assistance systems and infotainment features designed to enhance safety, comfort and convenience make the Bentayga V8 an innovative, advanced, and connected luxury SUV.

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Chanel To Sponsor Grand Palais Renovation

Explore the irresistible world of La Petite Robe Noire by Guerlain. A pure creation of a deliciously silky matte lipstick texture to bring more colour to your daily style.

SKINCARE: ALL LOOKS Abeille Royale Skincare Range MAKE-UP: ALL LOOKS Météorites Base Light-Diffusing Perfecting Primer, Foundation Lingerie De Peau Aqua Nude 01N, Météorites Color Glow, Bronzing Powder Terracotta Sun Trio Light, Météorites Face Powder (Heart Shape) EYEBROWS La Petite Robe Noire Brow Duo 01 Light NAILS La Petite Robe Noire Pink Ballerinas 061 EYES Eye Stay Primer, Eyeshadow 1 Shade Hey Nude, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black, Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L111 #FLAWLESS, Lip Pencil Bois De Santal 44,  DRESS Temperley London

LEFT IMAGE: EYES Eye Stay Primer, Eyeshadow 5 Shades Bois Des Indes 06, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black, Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire  LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L101 #ADVENTUROUS, La Petite Robe Noire L140 #CONQUEROR, Lip Pencil Terre De Sienne 45, JUMPSUIT Roberto Cavalli RIGHT IMAGE: EYES Eye Stay Primer , Eyeshadow 5 Shades Bois Des Indes 06, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black , Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L102 #AMBITIOUS, Lip Pencil Bois De Santal 44, TOP Delpozo

LEFT IMAGE: EYES Eye Stay Primer, Eyeshadow 5 Shades Bois Des Indes 06, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black, Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L161 #YUCCIE, Lip Pencil Bois De Santal 44 JACKET Etro RIGHT IMAGE: EYES Eye Stay Primer, Eyeshadow 5 Shades Bois Des Indes 06, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black, Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L120 #EMPOWERED, La Petite Robe Noire Top Coat, Lip Pencil Iris Noir 25 TOP Tibi

LEFT IMAGE: EYES Eye Stay Primer, Eyeshadow 5 Shades Rose Barbare 01, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black, Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L162 #TRENDY, Lip Pencil Pivoine Magnifica 64 TOP Etro RIGHT IMAGE: EYES Eye Stay Primer , Eyeshadow 5 Shades Rose Barbare 01, Mascara La Petite Robe Noire Black , Eyeliner Roll’Ink La Petite Robe Noire LIPS KissKiss Liplift, La Petite Robe Noire L160 #CREATIVE, Lip Pencil Pivoine Magnifica 64 TOP Vika Gazinskaya

Styling and Direction: Dana Mortada
Photographer: Sam Rawadi
Make Up by Guerlain International Make-up Artist Daniel Halim
Hair Stylist: Ania at MMG
Model: Eva at MMG
All Clothing from Bysymphony
Location: La Mer Jumeirah, Dubai- UAE

Enjoy our exclusive film for Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire below: 

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Best Eye Creams To Start Your Week Fresh

How A&E Editors Get Ready In The Morning

Yasmin Al Mulla, the Emirati mastermind behind fashion label YNM, is not only a fashion designer in her own right, but a fitness buff, conscious foodie and also happens to own one of the most beautiful Instagram accounts to exist.

While Yasmin was always looking towards a career in the fashion industry, she first studied international relations at university, before steering herself in a different direction to gain the skills and experience needed to start a fashion brand, signing up for short courses at the London College of Fashion. Then, after the sudden death of her father, Yasmin set up and launched her brand YNM in 2014, alongside her sister Nesreen, focusing on conservative dressing, creating modest, high-necked kaftans, overlays, and dresses.

Airy silhouettes sprinkled with dainty embellishments form the brands trademark, timeless, designs, a characteristic which is clearly reminiscent in all areas of her beautifully styled life, and here we take the opportunity to talk to Yasmin all about it.

Can you tell us about how your interest in fashion began, and what inspired you to become a fashion designer?

Clothes have always been a way of expressing myself. My love towards fashion developed at a very young age, when playing dress up gave me true joy. However, politics take a huge part of my interests as well, and I believe both majors are related in a certain way. Both are strong and essential elements in the world in general. Therefore, I combined my love for fashion and politics by ending up studying both, and as soon as I got a degree in International Relations I rushed to study Fashion Design at London College of Fashion to pursue my dream. I knew from the beginning that I could never work in any other field.

Starting from scratch, what obstacles did you face when launching YNM?

I don’t consider them obstacles, and instead find the high number of designers coming out each day motivational, as I highly believe that there is a room for everyone. I follow a different direction, and taste, that’s why my biggest point is to create timeless clothes that can be worn twenty years from now. I would like to make a noticeable trace in the global fashion industry as a designer from the UAE.

Can you tell us about the concept behind your brand, and how you came up with it?

We wanted to create a very strong product, a modern take of the traditional kaftan. They are very elegant comfortable items, which can be worn day and night by transferring them via a piece of jewellery. There was a point where people were getting used to regional designers selling through WhatsApp or Instagram, and we wanted to change that perspective by establishing an online store. YNM started as a company, never a home business, never selling through social channels. We love creating creative and strong marketing strategies through our social media page, in order to grab direct footfall for our online store. We launched our debut collection 3 years ago, and without any advertisement or PR, we were sold out online in less than a week, so this explains my beliefs perfectly. YNM has reached its value in the market nowadays because of this strategy, always trying to enhance the experience.

Why did you choose to create a fashion line based around a loose silhouette?

I believe in simplicity, and wanted very elegant, comfortable items. I make sure to create timeless, classic pieces that can be worn twenty years from now. Moreover, I believe in accessorising your outfit, and I love the idea that two different women can wear the same dress, yet look completely different. It’s the way you flaunt it, and the way you style it that can play a huge rule. A statement piece of jewellery and an elegant shoe can transform the entire look.

What sets your designs apart from others on the market?

I highly believe that there is a room for everyone, and I follow a different direction and taste. I would like to mark a noticeable trace in the global fashion industry as a designer from the UAE.

Tell us about how your brand has grown and transformed over the past few years?

In a very positive way. We are known for our quality, and were recently named as one of the strongest Emarati designers on Emirates Women day. We are stocked on our own online store, Ounass, Robinsons, and Level Kids. I care about the quality before anything else, as I want the pieces I design to remain as great as they are today, twenty years from now! Each piece is carefully screened to ensure the necessary standard of artisanship, quality, and reliability.

Can you share with us your daily design process, do you spend a lot of time in the studio?

I always make sure to be in the office from 10am to 5pm, depending on schedules. I always have exciting things to work on, and I think the key to success is to love your job. I love my company and we are like a family at the office, with work there revolving around researching, meetings, and sketching. There is always something exciting!

What do you look to for inspiration when you are designing, and do you have a muse?

I design for women who appreciate beauty, treasure simplicity, and aspire to leave an impression.

Is there anyone in particular who you would love to see wearing your designs?

Farah Diba, and Queen Rania, they both symbolise empowerment, and are the definition of strong, beautiful women. Their unique elegant sense of style defines true glamour.

Tell us about your new SS18 collection?

It is all about highlighting the 40s evolutionary New Look, the austerity fashion of the war years, and the rise of silver screen glamour and sophistication.

Do you have a favourite piece?

No, they are all dear to my heart.

What tips can you give for styling your collections?

My pieces can’t be worn without jewellery, so always pair them with beautiful jewellery and statement shoes.

Do you have favourite, go-to accessory designers that work well with both your personal and the brands chic and classic aesthetic?

Any beautiful shoes and diamonds. I don’t stick to one label when it comes to flaunting my pieces.

Would you ever look to design accessories too for YNM?

Yes, I would love to explore other ventures!

What are your 2017 career highlights so far?

I aspire to inspire. I am fond of witnessing real, elegant women appreciating my job, believing that fashion is a real business, and that doesn’t mean sketching and drawing only, we are a real firm with passionate employees. I see myself as an entrepreneur and business woman before being a designer! One of the highlighted meetings of 2017 was when I met Reem Acra earlier this year, and I am still really honoured that she was very impressed by the quality of work I deliver, and the pieces I create. I still remember her words saying to me, ‘In the fashion world, you either find a designer or a business woman. It is very rare to find them both combined in one person, and amongst everyone here in this room, you are the only one has it, Bravo!’ I am obsessed with seeing women encourage, support, and empower other women. It’s my favourite, and we need more of it!

Do you enjoy the freedom of running your own brand?

Yes, very much. But at the same time, its way harder than what most people expect. The success of your work depends on your hard work. Therefore, you end up working more than anyone else.

Do you feel this allows you to have time for your other interests such as fitness and food?

Oh yes, this plays a huge rule!

Will these other interests lead you towards expanding into a lifestyle brand?

Hopefully yes. I am a huge health and fitness enthusiast. I have been working out for the past eight years, and been on a gluten free, dairy free, and non-refined sugar diet for the past couple of years as well, and its way easier that what you think. I dream of promoting healthy lifestyles in the UAE, raising nutrition educations, and elevating health awareness in any possible way. I love cooking and creating healthy recipes, which my Instagram shows very clearly. One of my all-time dreams is to create the first Emirati healthy cook-book, highlighting a gluten free, dairy free, and non-refined sugar diet, and wholesome eatery.

How do you feel Instagram helps with the running of your business?

Instagram is a very important social platform that grabs direct footfall for your business. Creating a very strong content, and paying attention to the hierarchy plays a huge rule in a successful business. Instagram is a very powerful tool that we must take advantage of.

What are your thoughts on how Instagram has changed the way the fashion world now works?

Instagram is understating the commerce perfectly. The swipe up to the link option in Instastories is amazing.

As a woman at the helm of a brand, to you, what is key to being an empowered woman?

To always support, encourage, and empower other women. There is a room for everyone!

Growing up, was it always important for yourself and your sister to carve out a successful career?

Yes! We have worked hard to mark a noticeable trace in the global fashion industry as a label from the UAE. I am very driven in representing my country in a well-represented way. As his highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum’s famous quote says, ‘Dubai will never settle for anything less than first place.’ and that’s exactly what I am aspiring for!

Can you share with us the secret to your success?

Work hard until you no longer need to introduce yourself.

Finally, what can we look forward to and expect in the future from you?

I am currently exploring some exciting projects which I can’t wait to reveal. We are studying and exploring greater ventures, projects, and collaborations, working harder to elevate the label’s direction season after season.

By Eliza Scarborough

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Founded in 1941, Coach has a longstanding reputation built on quality craftsmanship and is defined by its confident New York style. The brand approaches design with a modern vision, reimagining luxury for today with an authenticity and innovation that is uniquely Coach, and for a second season they are with working with Selena Gomez as their face for the Spring 2018 collection. The singer, actress, producer, and philanthropist embodies the optimism of the original American house of leather in a series of images set in New York City that put the spotlight on the new bags.

The campaign pictures Gomez resting on a window ledge in a loft with a quintessential pre-war fire escape and the iconic Empire State Building in the background. It’s magic hour and the images capture the endless possibility of the night ahead in the city that never sleeps. She carries key bags, including the Parker, an all-new silhouette with handles that convert to a shoulder strap. The lightweight style is crafted in quilted nappa leather with bold colour-blocking and rivets for a graphic touch.

To achieve this vision of the campaign, Coach brought together its long-time team of collaborators, photographer Steven Meisel, stylist Karl Templer, creative director Fabien Baron, makeup artist Pat McGrath and hair stylist Guido Palau. It is here, with classic oldies playing in the background, that Selena speaks to us about her relationship with Creative Director Stuart Vevers and her first memories of the brand.

Selena, how are you?

I’m good, I’m healthy! I’ve been in New York shooting the new Woody Allen film, and really enjoying my time in this city.

You grew up in Texas, in a suburban part of Dallas. Coach has such resonance for people of your generation who went to the mall as kids. Do you remember the first time you got a Coach bag?

Yes! Coach was a staple, especially where I was from. My cousin and I would always go into the Coach store. I remember all we wanted were those cute little wallets that they sold, the coin purses. They said Coach in little gold letters on white leather. That’s what my cousin and I asked for Christmas, and that was a very big deal for us. It was cool that a store could make us feel that way when we walked in.

And now they’re bringing back the signature logo, which is so smart because it carries meaning for people like you who grew up with the brand.

It’s like vintage! It’s still the staple Coach bag, and it’s great when you understand what you’re getting behind when you buy something. Just watching them grow as a brand has been really cool. Creative Director Stuart Vevers added this edge, but it’s so beautiful and has a feminine spirit to it but it still has an edge.

So, is that what first piqued your interest about working with Coach?

It was definitely Stuart. Even before I met him, I had read a bunch of articles he had done and understood his vision for Coach. He really wanted to make a young girl feel cool, but in her own right. I identified with his passion for Coach as an American brand. Now, Coach is like family. In every kind of work project or business venture I undertake, I always want to make sure I love the people that I’m around. It changes the entire atmosphere. You know you’re in good hands and learning from the best. That’s how it is with Stuart, Steven Meisel, Pat McGrath, and Guido Palau.

‘Selena is a beautiful young woman with such an exquisite face, so our approach for COACH was to accentuate her natural beauty. She shines from the inside out and is a true joy to work with – she is super down-to-earth and the absolute sweetest. It might seem hard to believe for someone as famous as her, but it’s true – everyone loves working with her and she gets along with my entire team – that is the real testament to her.’ – Pat McGrath

‘Selena is such a pleasure to work with. She has the most gorgeous hair. For this campaign, we put it in a high ponytail, kind of 50’s, and left pieces around her face for ease. The way Selena looks in Coach clothes is what really inspires me.’– Guido Palau

It’s so telling that one of the most recognised items from the Coach collections is a sweater.

There’s definitely an element of organic comfort, this type of fashion isn’t tough. And, you know, the sweater is the piece I get complimented on the most. Every time I wear one, people hug me and ask, ‘What is that?’ It’s so cosy. I wanted to get one made for my 4-year-old sister, so we could match. I guess I’m that cheesy sister.

What’s it like working with Steven Meisel?

The first time I walked on set I was a little nervous, I can get a little intimidated. But he’s genuinely the sweetest, purest person. There are never a lot of people around, and it’s very intimate. It’s beautiful.

And Pat McGrath?

We met through Coach, but I had been a fan of her work for a long time. I would try to use it as inspiration for my own makeup, but how did I even think I could pull it off? Like, ‘Cool, I can do that Pat makeup look to go out to my friend’s birthday!’ She’s remarkable. You can tell how much she loves it. I don’t like going to work with people who you can tell just don’t care anymore, and I mean I get that, I’ve been there sometimes. But I’ve never experienced any other version of Pat than joyous, hilarious, passionate, and so cool.

All of Stuart’s campaigns for Coach have been so New York centric…

Yes, but also there’s a real sense of a town. He makes New York feel like a town, a real community, and it just feels like this is where the brand really lives.

That’s the thing about New York, isn’t it? You run into people at a restaurant, or on the street. That doesn’t happen so often in other cities. It’s a nice sentiment that resonates not only here in the United States, but all around the world.

Absolutely. Stuart keeps the integrity of the American brand, but makes it feel so global, where every girl and every guy feels like they can own a staple piece of the collection. I am always wearing a Coach brown leather moto jacket, every single one of my guy friends was like, ‘I really love that brown leather jacket,’ and I am like, ‘You could wear this.’ There are just some really great staple pieces.

And I love that even as he continues to elevate Coach’s fashion, Stuart never makes it feel inaccessible.

Right. It feels like something special, like something that you deserve when you’ve worked really hard. Sometimes, if I finish a project or work really hard to get a movie and then get it, I’ll gift myself something and think, ‘I worked really hard for this.’ The Coach pieces feel like those kind of things to me. But, at the same time, they do not feel inaccessible. That is a huge part of this for me.

How do you feel the resonance of Coach around the world when you travel?

Whenever I go anywhere and see a Coach store, I point like it’s my kid, ‘Look, Coach!’ It’s that feeling every time I see the brand, and it really stands alone. Even when you go through airports, you see how it’s different. It’s such a beautiful, recognisable name, and the campaigns are so beautiful, the way Steven captures it, the colours especially. It just feels like I can spot it everywhere.

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Need a break from London Fashion Week? Rest your feet, fill your belly and admire the unique interior design as we take a closer look at the restaurant and bar on offer at Mondrian Hotel.

SEA CONTAINERS

ALL-DAY DINING RESTAURANT SET IN THE TOM DIXON DESIGNED MONDRIAN LONDON.

Inspired by the Golden Age of transatlantic travel and designed under the creative direction of visionary Tom Dixon, by Design Research Studio, Sea Containers at Mondrian London brings the best of American and British cuisine to the Southbank, offering a modern yet casual dining experience in an informal setting alongside the River Thames.

The copper-clad hull guides you through to the restaurant, which boasts an open-plan kitchen featuring an impressive wood-fired oven. At the centre of the restaurant, there is an iconic 18-seat signature stainless steel bar designed to reflect an American diner, together with a Yellow Submarine which continues the maritime theme of the hotel. Sea Containers also boasts stunning views over the Thames, a riverside terrace for al fresco dining, and a private dining room with an outdoor terrace.

RUMPUS ROOM

A BAR ON THE TOP FLOOR WITH PANORAMIC VIEWS OF THE RIVER THAMES AND THE LONDON SKYLINE

Rumpus Room, which sits on the 12th floor of the Mondrian hotel, offers panoramic views of the River Thames and an unparalleled view across central London and St Paul’s. The skylight feature in the centre of the room facilitates an even stronger connection to the skyline, with light streaming through the space and out on to the terrace, adding a sparkle to the night-time sky. Recently relaunched, the innovative new look, curated by London-based designer Jacu Strauss, previously of Tom Dixon’s Design Research Studio, encompasses the transatlantic essence that runs throughout the hotel.

Taking inspiration from 1920s glamour with splashes of hot pink and peacock blue, the inclusion of foliage amongst floor-to-ceiling windows mimics the heady summers in the Hamptons. The space has been recrafted to be an accessible and casual space, suitable for any occasion. Guests will find their way to the rooftop bar via hot pink neon signage before walking through a hall of mirrors. Strauss has ensured the design is playful and interactive but most of all welcoming for all guests.

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In 2016, the Maison Louis Vuitton ventured into new creative territory: perfume. Seven singular fragrance trails came into being. Seven compositions conceived like so many invitations on a journey. Seven concentrates brimming with emotion, composed in Grasse at Les Fontaines Parfumées, the creative atelier of Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, Louis Vuitton Master Perfumer.

Today, this collection of exquisite perfumes welcomes a new unprecedented creation. Composed by Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, this fragrance radiates luminous optimism. The name of this new olfactory celebration: Le Jour Se Lève.

Daybreak

It peers over the horizon. Emerging behind mountaintops, filtering through tree branches, skimming along the ocean or a sandy desert, it transforms all it touches. This fresh, raw light, the morning’s first rays, always seems miraculous. As one rises at dawn to embark on new adventures, it’s the waking jolt of optimistic energy. The sun that pierces the night, finally revealing the promise of a crisp new page. A fresh story to write. An eternal cycle. Invincible forward motion. It is this precise instant, right before a departure, that the perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud wished to capture. A comforting freshness, at once gentle and bracing; dewy and radiant.

The essence of the sun’s first rays

While the temperature is still waning and night has barely lifted over a dew-drenched earth, the sun’s emerging rays begin to warm the skin. In order to capture this passage from shadows into light, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud chose one of his favorite ingredients: the mandarin. A fruit gorged with sun and possessing of an innocence that seems even more faceted than its fragrant cousin, bergamot:

“Mandarin is a marvellous citrus fruit because it’s possible to diffuse from it simultaneously the optimism of its flesh, the freshness of the zest and the floral aspect of the tree,” says the perfumer.

 

Ever the visionary, he allows his citrus note to defy expectation: “unlike other citruses, the mandarin doesn’t reference the structure of Cologne,” he notes. To reimagine this freshness as an unwavering backbone, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud chose Jasmine Sambac from China, the same variety used for green teas in Asia – and in fact, this precious and refined ingredient already appears in several perfumes in Louis Vuitton’s collection. A liquid impression of water-laced flowers then envelops the formula, as if a light mist were settling over the jasmine. A gentle rain stirs magnolia petals, apricot-tinged osmanthus and a subtly tangy blackcurrant accord. Then, like the rays that warm the horizon and illuminate the sky with pastel hues, a chorus of musks gently asserts itself. Le Jour Se Lève brings a smile to the lips. It inspires its wearer to rise early and set out for new horizons. And to pursue the promise of adventure until the dawn’s next light.

Presented in the same iconic bottle as the original collection of Louis Vuitton perfumes, this new composition features the same visual characteristics. In keeping with the rest of the collection, the perfume has been subtly colored to evoke the fragrance trail and inspiration.

Perfume fountains

The bottles of the collection Les Parfums Louis Vuitton are not perishable objects. They are designed to be kept; passed down even. To have them refilled, simply bring them to a Louis Vuitton store: each contains perfume fountains specifically developed for these bottles. In just a few seconds, the empty bottle is filled with perfume with just a click, and without any outside contact, like some kind of futuristic capsule. This is also a way of paying homage to Les Fontaines Parfumées, Jacques Cavallier Belletrud’s creative atelier in Grasse, where a century ago one could refill bottles at the source.

Travel Bottle

Designed for every kind of journey, the travel set includes a 7.5ml bottle as well as four recharges. These modern magnetic refills clip onto the spray bottle intuitively. In less than a second, the travel bottle is prepped and ready to venture to the four corners of the earth.

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Want to push your workout to the next level, combine weights with yoga, or generally improve your entire wellbeing? From California to Ibiza, these are the retreats that will deliver exactly that.

THE SHAPE DEFINER

CAPRI PALACE, ITALY

The world-renowned Capri Leg School’s patented treatments do work, and on a level more fundamental than just cosmetic. Hence why, along with A-listers Gwyneth Paltrow and Julia Roberts, sports stars like Roger Federer and Cristiano Ronaldo regularly visit. Developed 21 years ago by Professor Francesco Canonaco, the focus is on improving circulation, which he believes equals a good heart and good circulation. Leg school takes an hour a day and is ideally taken over a week, so we recommend maximising your body overhaul by booking in with Bodyism personal trainers and eating the Bodyism Clean & Lean menu.

THE BODY TRANSFORMER

THE BODY CAMP, IBIZA

While it is easy to be seduced by the island’s sand, sea, sun, and crystal blue Mediterranean waters, don’t let the idyllic backdrop fool you, the Body Camp program is not to be taken lightly. Inspired by LA’s burgeoning fitness scene, this luxury boot camp takes a holistic head-to-toe approach that incorporates mind, body, and spirit. All meals are 80% plant-based and supplemented with small amounts of dairy, organic lean meat and fresh fish, super-food shots, and plenty of water, all to accelerate weight loss. The challenging schedule is there to push you, and it gets results, you will leave feeling tighter and more streamlined.

THE KICK-STARTER

CAL-A-VIE, SAN DIEGO

The beauty of this 200-acre health and beauty spa retreat, apart from its location in the sun-baked hills of northern San Diego, is how generously it accommodates its guests. When it comes to reaching your fitness or weight goals, you can be as tough or easy on yourself as you like. Similarly, with the food, each meal can be calorie-counted by a nutritionist, or otherwise if you want more you can just ask. This guilt free approach is what no doubt helps with the program’s effectiveness. To complement your bespoke training schedule, the daily power hike from 6.15am takes you on a steep tour of the hilly surroundings. You will work up a sweat but it’s worth the exertion to catch the sun rising over the canyons.

THE SHAPE-SHIFTER

LA RÉSERVE RAMATUELLE, SAINT TROPEZ

The village-style setup of La Réserve encompasses a hotel with rooms and Provence-style villas, complete with panoramic views and butler service. The Nescens Boot Camp however is what is remarkable at this location, for its results and luxurious setting. Food is far from your typical boot-camp affair, expect three courses each mealtime of exquisite dishes, followed by plenty of Nordic walking and Pilates. After a strenuous day, the spa treatments, which are included in your program, are a welcome relief.

BAD-HABIT BREAKER

YOGA DETOX, SIX SENSES, VIETNAM

Combining barefoot luxury with a yoga detox program, Ninh Van Bay is a five-star education in wellness and mindfulness, providing a holistic approach that feels like it is setting you on the right path in the gentlest way. Ancient practices are married with high-tech equipment, and after just a few days you will have learned how to listen to your body’s real needs, as opposed to emotionally motivated food choices. A highlight of the program is the sleep hypnosis, where you are guided through a series of gentle meditative exercises combined with hypnosis, which provides a profound sense of relaxation that goes beyond a massage.

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It’s hard not to notice the explosion of K-Beauty, or Korean Beauty, products. It brought us BB and CC creams as well as experimental ingredients like sea kelp, bee venom and even snail mucus, all promising a youthful glowing complexion.

The Korean French skincare brand Erborian creates products that deliver effective results with little effort and we sit down with President and co-founder Katalin Berenyi to discover exactly how they make the complexity of K-routines easy to use.

You may not have noticed, but you probably already have one or two K-Beauty items on your bathroom shelf. If not, then it’s time you got to know this phenomenon that has taken over the cosmetics industry. K-Beauty is all about nourishing your skin, and gives you a flawless complexion that requires minimum makeup. Pristine, glowing skin is what the Asian market measures beauty by, so cosmetic brands must work extra hard to deliver products with those high-standards in mind.

Katalin Berenyi, President and co-founder of Erborian tells us; “The Korean cosmetic industry is incredibly fast. Basic principles in Korean beauty are the ones that we incorporate into our own routine, such as double cleansing, skin detoxifying and moisturising with non-alcoholic liquid lotions.”

Erborian was created in 2007 by Berenyi and Hojung Lee, a Korean scientist. A perfect balance between Seoul and Paris, Lee develops sophisticated formulas and Berenyi uses her creativity to devise innovative concepts and create high-end products, inspired both by traditional Korean medicine and modern French luxury. In 2009, Erborian launched the first BB Cream in Europe, that became an immediate international success and won the 2010 Beauty Awards Prize becoming part of the L’Occitane Group. The concept is to take the 10-step routine preferred by Korean skincare fanatics, and filter it down to one or two products for easy use and maximum results.

“Everything is researched and made in Korea,” Berenyi says. “The silky feeling and quick absorption comes from Korean technology, but we include the French approach of combining as many elements in one product. In Korea they layer, they can use up to 10 products, but I don’t want an Erborian woman to use 10-15 products, I want her to use two or three, and to do that we increase the level of actives that makes it efficient.”

It’s a fast-growing business, surpassing other beauty leaders, with Forbes.com reporting sales from the region’s market exceeding US$150 billion (Dhs551 billion) this year. It also highlighted that Asia’s leading names in beauty are expected to account for 80% of global cosmetics revenue gain by 2019. In the UAE, Sephora stores have introduced multiple Korean products into their beauty halls, with Erborian being one of the newest names to grab our attention, but will the Middle East market take to this concept?

“Women here are extremely sophisticated,” Berenyi observes. “I think they have a sophisticated ritual for prepping the skin and using the right products. You have heat and humidity which makes it challenging, so I guess there are many women who have mixed or oily skin. Some women love to use a good primer and that’s it, but that’s not the best way to treat mixed and oily skin. Cleaning is key, with a product like the Double Mousse which is an exfoliating foam that shrinks the pores and has eight infused active ingredients. Second will be Bamboo Matte Lotion because you still need moisture, but you want something that mattifies. The third step would be the Pink Perfect Primer that creates a smooth canvas that the Middle Eastern women look for.”

The right ingredients aren’t the only thing you should be looking at when introducing K-Beauty into your routine, it’s a lot to do with the correct application and use. Berenyi adds, “Every product should have a gesture. When applying the toner and lotions you need to use your hands to splash and tap your skin to bring blood to the surface. With serums you use your hands and create a vacuum for it to penetrate, and with BB creams you put 4 or 5 drops and smooth it from the middle out and from the bottom to the top.”

She believes that less is more when it comes to skincare, which in some way goes against the Korean ritual that encourages to layer as many products as possible to achieve a luminous complexion. But, in order to tick the global box, many cosmetic brands are now looking at creative ways to make products more user friendly and just as effective. From what we have tested, Erborian may just be the name we turn to for ultimate results with minimum effort.

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A model, mother, and businesswoman, Jelena Bin Drai is the vision of a lady who does it all. The Serbian-born beauty, who won the Miss Yugoslavia title in 1998, lives in Dubai and presides over two beauty salons, Vanilla by Jelena Ladies Salon and Spa and Chocolate by Jelena Gents Grooming Salon and Spa, as well as Asya’s Nursery, Al Das Medical Centre, together with her eponymous clothing brand.

Founded in Dubai, Jelena Bin Drai is a luxury clothing brand with elegance and comfort at its heart. Whether pret-a-porter or haute couture, Jelena uses exquisite craftsmanship and the highest quality fabrics to create chic and wearable collections with a contemporary, on-trend edge. Jelena’s personal style mirrors this aesthetic, preferring a simple style but with a feminine twist, and here we learn more about her favourite wardrobe items.

This couture dress is from my 2017 collection and is a piece that I never displayed for sale, as I became too attached to it! It is a mix of fabrics and techniques and I wanted to keep it for my daughter, as to me it is a piece of art. I will always tend to keep the original couture pieces that I design for my daughter as they are all so special and have been made with a huge amount of craftmanship.

Tom Ford ready-to-wear is usually too sexy for my taste, but I love to see his pieces on somebody else. However, I do love his accessories and this bag is everything to me, it is classy, modern, and cool. My husband also loves Tom Ford, so he surprised me one day with this bag and the matching shoes, however the shoes are just too high for me to wear regularly!

I prefer to collect jewellery, especially Van Cleef & Arpels, rather than shoes and bags as I feel it is a good investment and I am already looking forward to passing the pieces down to my daughter. My husband knows my taste and how much I love emerald so chose this collection for me, and I will wear the set whether I am on the red carpet or watching my son play football, I feel jewellery is meant for enjoying and not to be kept in the safe.

This stone is an amethyst and I was given it by a friend as a wedding present, and I have become particularly attached to it. I feel that it cleans my chakras, and from the moment it was given to me I have always kept it on my bedside table. It rejuvenates me and when I have low energy I keep it closer to me.

I have a few scents which I will sometimes mix and use at different times of the day, ranging from charcoals which I burn, to a spray, and an oil. As you can see, they are sitting on top of a personalised box, and this was a gift from my best friend.

Because I am always very busy I usually send my driver to my favourite stores with pictures of items I have seen. Everyone knows him, and the store assistants will pack up what I have requested, adding in a few extra pieces that they think I will like. These Manolo Blahnik pumps are a pair which he sourced for me.

I originally bought this Bottega Veneta travel set for my husband, however I ended up keeping the bags for myself! They are the ideal combination of functionality and style, together with a lot of space inside, and I can use just them when going abroad for a week as I am very organised when packing, taking just the necessary items.

I love the smell of the paper when I open a book, and I order a large number of books regularly throughout the year from a publishing house in Serbia. I use books to unwind at the end of the day, especially because I need a break from phone and computer screens, rotating between a few books at the same time depending on my mood.

By Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Henry Pascual

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My Life, My Style: Lama Jouni

Having started her journey with Bulgari when she was just 18 years old, self-confessed ‘Indian Jones of stones’ gem hunter Lucia Silvestri embodies all the elegance and glamour that the Italian jewellery house is famous for. Showcasing the Bulgari High Jewellery Festa collection in Dubai, we took the opportunity to chat with the award-winning creative director about how she sources the stars of the show, precious gems, that have become the hallmark of Bulgari’s more elaborate coveted pieces.

Can you share with us the inspiration behind the new collection?

The name is Festa, which means celebrations, as us Italians love to celebrate. From the beginning I loved the theme as it is joyful, and we started to create the designs with a real emphasis on being happy.

Tell us about the process of choosing the stones?

In some way I feel like the Indiana Jones of stones, because I travel so extensively looking for them, especially in India and Sri Lanka. Due to the rarity of the stones, I started to work with the owners of the rough stones, asking them to re-cut them in our style, which is more flat and elegant. The first thing that I look for in the big stones is the personality, it is not enough for it to just be beautiful, it also needs to have a soul, which I can only feel through touch. One of the first lessons that I learnt from Mr Bulgari, was not to buy a stone if you don’t have a plan for using it, so I always ensure that I always have an idea for a stone before I buy it, although I will allow this idea to change. When we work with coloured gems we start with the gems, whereas when working with diamonds we start from an idea as it is easier to find diamonds.

How flexible are you with which stone to use?

We are flexible if the stone is beautiful and the colour is vivid. We are working with unusual and rare stones like spinel’s and mandarin garnets, mixing them to make different combinations of colours, and trying new cuts with them.

What inspires you when you are creating, and does your mood matter considering you are creating such happy collections?

Sometimes when I am nostalgic or sad I am still able to create something which is really special and has depth.

Which stone is you favourite to work with?

I like the energy of the emerald, so will always wear a touch of green.

What has been the hardest part of your career?

This part, the interviews! For many years my job was a secret job, so I used to work in private, and only started talking about it more recently. I have a unique role, especially being a woman buying stones and designing with them in a man’s world.

What is your most inspired part of designing?

When I am in Rome and receive all the gems which I have collected worldwide. I get inspiration everywhere, and am actually visiting the souk while in Dubai, because I need many ideas for when I sit in front of my table of gems to build my story.

What can we expect to see this year from Bulgari?

You will be seeing more inspired designs and of course many colours.

Tell us about how you started at Bulgari, and if you always dreamt of a career in jewellery?

When I was a little girl my father was working in Bulgari but not in the gems department, although at that stage I never saw myself taking the same career path. However, he proposed that I try working at Bulgari and I agreed to for just four months, and now it has been more than 35 years! When I was younger I thought I could be a fashion stylist, as I loved creating outfits with my mother.

How would you describe your personal style?

I love colours, for everyday and evening.

If there is one thing that you could change within yourself, what would it be?

I would like to be taller, with beautiful hair!

What is a quality that you most admire in women?

I like elegance and intellectual honesty.

Can you tell us something about yourself which people don’t know?

I am very unsure and not self-confident, especially in the professional world.

What book are you currently reading?

An Italian love story between a lady with a younger man. It is a new book and I thought it was interesting.

Your personal motto is, ‘follow your passion, while keeping your feet on the ground,’ how do you think this is possible?

You must believe in the values that your family gave you. So, if you have a strong family behind you, this is possible.

What do you tell yourself every morning?

I am happy that I am alive, and very lucky to have good health, with the best job!

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Internationally renowned for their one-of-a-kind designs, and dresses featured on red carpets and worn by worldwide celebrities, George Azzi and Assaad Osta’s success story began after their outstanding results at ESMOD, and a very enriching internship at Elie Saab.

Both designers had their interests struck by fashion at a very young age. Their fascination for surrealism, classical music and movies were the grounds of two distinctive styles merged together and complementing one another to create a world of romance. We sat down with the two designers to get a take on their journey, the key to their successful collaboration, their future plans and behind-the-scene moments you didn’t know about Azzi and Osta.

What opportunities drew you to the couture segment?

It actually was a childhood dream for both of us. Later, we grew up and realised what a great opportunity it would be to work in this field, especially in Lebanon and the region. You can be very creative in the couture segment when it comes to volumes and concepts. Of course, at some point, we will expand to ready-to-wear, but couture will always be our number one segment.

Can you tell us about the couture process at Azzi & Osta?

Well there is no specific way. Inspiration could strike from anything, colour, fabric, or texture. We can even get inspired by a topic mentioned by a client, or from watching a movie. The process varies, sometimes we choose a theme first and go from there, and other times we decide on a silhouette and a specific colour and then merge the theme to those choices. Afterwards we focus on the embroidery process, fabrics and so forth. We also take into consideration the market needs and the current trends, but without ever losing our own identity.

Tell us, what is the secret to a successful working relationship?  Who is in charge of what?

Well, besides fighting every day? No, on a serious note, we each deal with different tasks, and after 7 years it comes naturally to each one of us which task is best suited. It all started at ESMOD where we went together, and then we became really close friends while interning at Elie Saab. Afterwards, we worked on some freelance projects, and then decided to create a collection, going on to launch the Azzi & Osta brand.

More and more brands are boosting their luxury fashion strategies, how do you feel about this?

What sets us apart is first and foremost our defined identity. You can directly recognise an Azzi & Osta dress by simply looking at it. We also have a very exclusive choice of fabric, mix of colours, embroidery, volumes, and structures. We try our best to be original, and for example, you would never see draping in an Azzi & Osta collection.

What does the Azzi & Osta woman embody?

She’s a working woman. She is modern, yet appreciates tradition and has an emotional connection with the past. She is fun, but also discreet and subtle. She is the perfect combination of classical with a twist.

How difficult was it to launch a couture business, especially being based in Lebanon?

Well the difficulty is mainly because of the political and economic situation. When we first started out, it was smooth, but during the second year things fell apart, which we worked hard to pick back up. It’s an everyday challenge, and you always must come up with new ways to work around the situation.

How do you guarantee exclusivity with your gowns?

We have two ways of insuring exclusivity. First, when a client asks for a custom-made dress, we draw it and design it uniquely for her. Second, if the client decides to choose a design from our collection, we make sure the piece is worn only by her in the country.

Tell us the inspiration behind your latest Spring Summer 2018 collection?

We are big suckers for history! So, the inspiration actually started at the Louvre, in front of Rubens’ painting of Marie de’ Medici’s wedding. Her iconic sleeves were a must-do in our collection, so we decided to modernise and include it. This is why we chose the name Marie de Medici.

What has been the most memorable moment of a famous face wearing one of your designs?

The most recent one, Eva Longoria at the Cannes Film Festival. It was such an amazing experience.

Which markets do you feel will present the biggest opportunities in the coming years?

For couture, definitely the Gulf. We are also thinking that Russia would be a big opportunity. As for ready-to-wear, we think it will be Europe and the United States since we have many clients there.

Tell us more about your future plan to move into ready-to-wear?

AZZI: I personally love ready-to-wear! I would love to create four collections a year!

OSTA: As for me, I’m a bit perplexed, but I’m becoming more and more convinced. It needs a lot of planning and work since it’s a whole different concept. We first need to expand our atelier and our team. Maybe by September 2018 we will launch our first collection. Some things will be simpler versions of couture. So, you’ll definitely see more pants, more jumpsuits, and more shirts.

What is the biggest luxury in your lives?

AZZI: I love travelling!

OSTA: Well… I love shoes!

What is next on Azzi & Osta’s agenda?

We’re planning our events in the UAE and other Gulf countries. We are also working on our next couture collection, and of course, we are hopeful for a show in Paris.

Things you didn’t know about the designer duo:

A surprising secret no one knows about you…

AZZI: I have six cats… and I am a history and geography geek

OSTA: I have a collection of pins

If you were a city or a country…

AZZI: Netherlands

OSTA: Paris

Favourite corner in Beirut…

AZZI & OSTA: Mar Mkhayel

One thing you can’t live without…

AZZI: My phone

OSTA: TV series

If you could bring one food item to a deserted island, what would it be?

AZZI: Fries

OSTA: Popcorn

A song on repeat on your iPod…

AZZI: Bad Blood by Taylor Swift

OSTA: The Christmas Album of SIA

Best advice you’ve ever gotten…

AZZI & OSTA: It was from Elie Saab during our internship. He said, ‘you’re working on a dress, not a spaceship, let’s not over complicate it.’

Famous person you would like to take out on a dinner…

AZZI: The late Franca Sozzani

OSTA: Jackie Kennedy

By Dana Mortada

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A&E Editorials: Silver Screen

Dreamiest Dresses From Paris Haute Couture SS18

A well-cut or striking outer layer is the last thing you put on but the first thing others see, so it makes sense to ensure that it’s a hard-working piece, regardless of what you’re wearing underneath.

By Eliza Scarborough

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The Rise Of Ugly Sneakers

Bulgari knows a thing or two about catering to the precise demands of luxury lovers, and since branching out into hotels back in 2004, they have proved that they are more than capable of delivering superlative sparkle.

Debuting in December 2017, their most recent venture, The Bulgari Resort & Residences Dubai adds a new jewel to their luxury hospitality collection. Situated on the exclusive, manmade Jumeira Bay, an island carved into the shape of a seahorse and adjoined by a 300m bridge to central Dubai coastline, the sunny property resembles a traditional seaside Italian village, blending Mediterranean landscaping with the natural surroundings of the shores of the Arabian Gulf.

Designed entirely by Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel, the renowned Italian architectural firm that has created all the Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, the 1.4 million square-foot property is a first-of-its-kind development for Bulgari, both in scale and magnitude. Charming with a Mediterranean village feel, the complex features the Resort, six residential buildings with 173 sea facing apartments, 15 private mansions, and Bulgari’s first-ever Marina and Yacht Club.

EDITOR’S REVIEW

The City Oasis Escape

A Mediterranean landscape blending with the shores of the Arabian Gulf.

For a person that spent more than 200 days out of 365 traveling between cities around the world for work, it was only ideal that the best treat to myself would be steering away from any airport and staying in Dubai. Now the question was where would be the best place to spend a short family holiday in the city?

The Bulgari Resort Dubai had just opened a few weeks earlier and while I visited briefly to interview its top executives I was fascinated by the location that I decided that this would be a place worth trying.

In the heart of city, and 5 minutes or less off the Jumeirah road we drove over a bridge that disconnects you from the city and connects you to what I called an Island. Yes, it felt like you travelled away, very far from hustle and bustle of a dynamic city like Dubai.

Welcomed warmly by the team, not to forget the “sweet” treats and personalized welcome that the kids got on arrival, where my son was like: “Mom I love this place”! Well, the things that impress kids!

But what impressed the mum, me, was the stunning 3-bedroom beach skyline villa that we were escorted to by our personal butler “Yogesh”, that was one of the highlights that made our stay super comfortable. The villa was beautifully decorated with balloons as it was my Son’s Birthday and the kids’ room had 2 tents set with beds to make the kids’ stay fun and adventerous, but what topped it all was the brands’ keen knowledge of my love for their “Serpenti” bags that the tents were also Serpenti inspired.

I don’t intend to go into the smallest details but I believe that the true luxury starts from there and the attention to the smallest gestures.

The villa had a private pool, which is a perfect option for couples or families that favor privacy, yet the beach was just few steps from our door, which made us enjoy the most beautiful of sunsets everyday.

The F&B offering at the resort is wide where we had breakfast at Il Café, Lunch at the Yacht Club and Dinner and at Chef Niko Romito’s 3 Michelin star Restaurant “Il Ristorante”. Hard to stay fit with all that isn’t it? Well, let’s say I managed, as I was training every morning at the Resort’s fitness club, The Workshop Gymnasium, with one of the best trainers that I’ve worked out with, Brian.

The kids had their fair share of fun as the resort had a kids club (Little Gems Club) that is managed by a highly skilled team, which operated from 10 am till 10 pm daily. Betwen outdoor games, handcrafts, and a variety of kids entertainment programs, the club is convenient for toddlers and even safe for babies if accompanied by their nannies. I struggled daily to take my kids back as they never wanted to leave.

Our last day was memorable and festive as the Pastry Chef baked for Tarek and Lamar a very special Gingerbread house to take home for Christmas.

It was truly a “Staycation” to remember, a beautiful property, generous hospitality, very friendly staff and such an exemplary service! Isn’t that what we need as a treat?

We will surely go back soon.

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A&E Guide: World’s Best Relaxing Retreats
A&E Editors Travel Bucket List

A paradise full of sultry and sophisticated creations by Paul Surridge, Roberto Cavalli’s new successor. Surridge has taken the heat of the moment with a glam comeback season to appeal to all modern women.

ONESIE, TROUSERS, SHOES, BRACELETS. ALL BY ROBERTO CAVALLI

COAT, EARRINGS. ALL BY ROBERTO CAVALLI

CARDIGAN, JUMPSUIT, BRACELETS, EARRINGS. ALL BY ROBERTO CAVALLI

LEFT IMAGE:  TRENCH COAT, BRACELETS, EARRINGS RIGHT IMAGE:  DRESS, NECKLACE, EARRINGS, SHOES ALL BY ROBERTO CAVALLI

LEFT IMAGE:  BOMBER, ONESIE, SKIRT, EARRINGS RIGHT IMAGE:  BLAZER, TOP, TROUSERS, NECKLACE, BRACELETS, EARRINGS, SHOES. ALL BY ROBERTO CAVALLI

LEFT IMAGE:  JACKET, VEST, TROUSERS, EARRINGS, SHOES RIGHT IMAGE:  DRESS, EARRINGS, SHOES ALL BY ROBERTO CAVALLI

Styling and Direction: Dana Mortada
Photographer: Fouad Tadros
Hair and Makeup: Katharina at MMG
Model: Sofia at MMG
Location: Al Barari, Dubai

Enjoy our regional exclusive fashion film for Roberto Cavalli here:

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A&E Exclusive: Paul Surridge Discusses his New Chapter at Roberto Cavalli

The name Louis Vuitton may not have come to mind when you’re thinking about buying a new Swiss watch, but Hamdi Chatti, vice president of Louis Vuitton jewellery and watches, has gradually paved the way to ensure that this will happen, especially with his recently achieved Seal of Geneva.

Given his extensive background in high-end watches and jewellery, which includes stints in Piaget, Harry Winston and Montblanc, Chatti seems like a perfect fit for the sector which was established more recently than other watchmaking competitors. Proving to be an exciting venture, with the acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps, a Swiss movement specialist, and the integration of Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking manufacture in Geneva in 2014, the French Maison is ready to stand tall among the giants in the game.

To what extent do you think the Seal of Geneva is still important today?

There is a whole process at the laboratory for certification, and to make sure that as far as design execution and accuracy have met all the requirements, so it is not an easy process. I think what we are proudest of is not this, but because it is also beautiful. Even though this seal of approval is not necessary as it isn’t known by everybody, I wanted it because it is an instant mark of pedigree. This results in a beautiful aesthetic with outstanding quality.

Tell us about the prerequisites for this?

You need to design, produce, and assemble the timepiece in-house in Geneva. It is a strict process which must be carried out by a certain watchmaker.

Can you share with us more details about how you present the watches to clients?

Every two months we go to a part of the world where we organise events outside of the store in a beautiful location, and we show our clients the details of the watches with the watchmaker. I believe that it is not only about the product, but also about the emotion.

You also offer personalisation, can you tell us about this?

We have had bespoke and personalisation services within the company since day one. With the watches, the way we do it is not just by engraving your name, but also offering different bespoke options.

What is your strategy for both watches and jewellery to go beyond the fashion clientele?

To me, first it is about our duty which is beauty. When we have this and an emotion we can explain about what they stand for in terms of quality and manufacture. However, my starting point is never how good we are, it is how beautifully we can design our product, because at the end of the day this is what it is all about. It should always start from the heart and go to the brain, not the other way around.

To what extent do you think endorsements are important?

The brand is so big with different celebrity endorsements, so in watchmaking my best endorsement is the Seal of Geneva.

Can you share with us your future objectives?

To have more people who are not Louis Vuitton clients becoming aware of the fantastic things we do here.

What is your biggest challenge?

Finding new watchmakers, as we often have to change them because our complications are different from the competition. Occasionally the client requests new things and they don’t want to wait a long time, so my challenge is to find people who can create what is desired.

How would you describe the Louis Vuitton watch world?

Dare to have new emotions.    

What are you wearing on your wrist?

Today, I am wearing the Tambour Horizon, which is a connected watch because we are close to the weekend. Although it is beautiful, it is also amazing for the weekend as it provides all the information I need, from where to visit to which restaurant to eat at.

Tell us about the sourcing of leather for the straps?

Most we source within the company, and we also have our own alligator farm that only produces for Louis Vuitton.

What can we expect in 2018 for high jewellery?

We have started to see some of the pieces and they are amazing, and as always we will be presenting them by the sea.

How would you describe your personal style?

A lot of contradiction, depending on what I need to do, whether it is business, fun, serious, or playful. The challenge is mixing.

What are the three things you hate most?

Monotony, a lack of trust, and being without freedom.

What is a life lesson you would share?

Do whatever you would like, and don’t follow rules and limitations.

Can you share with us your personal motto?

Rather than a motto I prefer to start my day with a smile.

Tell us your resolutions for 2018?

It would be to read more as I used to read a lot, especially intricate things about physics as I am an engineer by trade.

How has your education served you in your current role?

It helped me a lot because it allowed me to understand how to do things easily in terms of the product and organisation. Although, sometimes the challenge is to get away from this structure and bring emotion.

Speaking of emotion, how important is passion?

Passion is crucial because you can create new ideas and make them happen if you have passion.

Combining the vegetation of the Pacific islands, with the relaxed tailoring of Hong Kong. Check out our full ‘Urban Paradise’ story exclusively for Louis Vuitton out in our January’18 issue.

Lillies Space Dyed Knitwear, Tropical Flow Necklace, Sand Rock Necklace, On The Go Monogram Belt, Sangle Key Holder, Smart Casual Trousers, Mule Honolulu Shoes ALL LOUIS VUITTON

LEFT IMAGE: Lillies Space Dyed Knitwear, Tropical Flow Necklace, Sand Rock Necklace, On The Go Monogram Belt, Sangle Key Holder, Smart Casual Trousers RIGHT IMAGE: Parka Outwear, Smart Casual Trousers, On The Go Monogram Belt, Tropical Flow Necklace, Sand Rock Necklace, Derby Woodcut Shoes, Keepall 50 Monogram Eclipse Split ALL LOUIS VUITTON

LEFT IMAGE: Toweling Shearling Bomber, High Neck T-Shirt with Logo, Grandad Collar Shirt, Slim Trousers, Derby Woodcut Shoes RIGHT IMAGE: Perforated Logo Blouson, Bumbag Monogram Bag, Slim Trousers ALL LOUIS VUITTON

LEFT IMAGE: Perforated Logo Blouson, Derby Woodcut Shoes, Slim Trousers RIGHT IMAGE: Sand Rock Necklace, High Neck T-Shirt with Logo, Grandad Collar Shirt, Loose Fit Knitwear, Short Sleeve Blouson, Smart Casual Trousers, Mule Honolulu Shoes ALL LOUIS VUITTON

Toweling Shearling Bomber, High Neck T-Shirt With Logo, Grandad Collar Shirt, Keepall 50 Monogram Eclipse Split, Slim Trousers ALL BY LOUIS VUITTON

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Carla Guler
Grooming: Scarlett Burton
Model: James at Models 1
Location: London, United Kingdom

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A&E Guide To: Louis Vuitton Masters

Paul Surridge started at Roberto Cavalli as creative director on July 1st 2017, after a turbulent period of change at the house, and just eight weeks before he presented the SS18 collection.

Somewhat unknown to many, Surridge however has an impressive fashion pedigree. A graduate from London’s Central Saint Martin’s, the English designer cut his teeth at Calvin Klein during the 90s before joining Christopher Bailey at Burberry from 2003 to 2007.

In 2007, he became design director for men at Jil Sander under Raf Simons, where he met Gian Giacomo Ferraris, then CEO of Jil Sander and now CEO of Roberto Cavalli. Next was an appointment as Creative Director at Z Zegna in 2011 before leaving in 2014 to become creative consultant of Acne Studios, overseeing all the menswear activity.

The appointment of Surridge to the Italian house famed for its dazzling eveningwear and Riviera-style glamour is adding a new, more relaxed, aesthetic. From long-line evening dresses with sheer panelling and draped knitted pieces, his debut collection still had Cavalli-isms with plenty of zebra stripes, but with a dose of masculine tailoring.

What inspired you from the Roberto Cavalli’s heritage for your SS18 collection?

When I walked into the museum for the first time, what overwhelmed me the most was the sheer size, as I was faced with 23,000 garments hanging infront of me, which made me realise that I was working with a legacy and a designer who had been active for a long time. As I was filtering through, I came across costumes that Roberto had designed for the Spice Girls, and the first collections with designs spanning from sand-blasted jeans to ornamental eveningwear. Stepping away and digesting these findings, I realised what Cavalli is to me, with his dedication to manufacturing, finishing, and the craft and technique becoming clear. Roberto Cavalli is a brand that really was the first to publicly pioneer and modernize techniques, being the first to print leather, the first to print on knit, and the first to decorate sand-blasted jeans. However, I felt that in the more recent collections there was a lack of functional daywear, and I wanted to make it more accessible, global, and practical for the day. This exploration led me to a collection which combined animalier, daywear, workmanship, and leather, with a colourway of terracotta, black, and white, reflecting the brand’s Florentine heritage.

Tell us about the prints?

For me, in the show it was about animalier, but I wanted it to be on one side bold, earthy, and graphic, and on the other in vaporised pastels, echoing the zebra print in a very feminine key, to show the importance of one print and how it can be represented in multiple ways. Moving on to the Pre-Fall collection, a floral print is introduced together with the continuation of the zebra. I deliberately stayed away from nostalgia as I felt that I was inheriting a brand that already had a lot of nostalgia and retro glamour, instead clearing the air with elegance, in the form of feminine florals.

How do you feel about the demand for numerous collections, when designing Pre-Fall and Cruise alongside the main collections?

If you think about buying something now and immediately, it is because you need it, and if you look at our existing customer, potential customer, and the future of consumerism we don’t need anything, the only thing we need is something that we love or are missing or are emotionally engaged to buy. The mature customer who have matured with the brand is fundamental to respect and maintain, as is the younger customer with a millennial mindset, and I think it is down to me create the need for something.

What are your thoughts on millennials?

Millennials are not loyal, and their nature is not to care so much about the story, instead just living in the minute. The key for me is not to abandon the core client, and I am doing that by just cleaning up what we have had in recent collections, which allows me to have the building blocks for where I want to take the brand next.

You only had 8 weeks to create your debut collection for SS18, tell us about this?

It wasn’t long at all, but I think that what myself and the team managed to do was a great job. The quality was also very good which was a triumph, as sometimes when you work too quickly the problem is that you don’t catch everything, making it impossible to have everything right, but we balanced that and everyone was very happy.

Which look did you sketch first when creating the collection?

It was a shirt jacket look with a swimsuit underneath it. It is interchangeable and has a utilitarian style.

Tell us about the accessories?

We have widened the offering of accessories, moving away from just the stiletto heel and evening sandal, launching the babouche, a house slipper, together with a boot version.

What are your feelings on a mono-look?

I like it because it shows courage. A woman head to toe in either one colour or one print, for me shows a lot of personality as it is not easy to pull off. It is a graphic statement.

Talking about power, what is your opinion on the use of empowering slogans used in fashion?

If a designer feels that approach is right for them, and they really use the slogans out of commitment to the cause then I think fantastic, whereas if it is just a lazy placement of a graphic then that is not so cool. I don’t think the use of slogans is appropriate for the Cavalli woman of today, I don’t think she needs words, as it is more of a mindset. For me, empowering a woman is letting her have her body on show, but nothing too vulgar.

There are many lines under the universe of Roberto Cavalli, can you tell us about them and how they work together?

The first step for me with the main line is to bring aspiration and luxury, it should represent the dream of Roberto Cavalli, underlining the importance of craftmanship. Cavalli Class represents a more conservative edge, it is for the woman who does not follow fashion and isn’t a fashionista, but wants a piece of Roberto Cavalli. Just Cavalli was Roberto’s playground, and I wanted to keep his personal approach whilst relating it to the millennials, so it is very much influenced by what is happening in fashion, with a raw and urban edge.

Can we expect couture in the future?

That I don’t know. There is currently a couture part of the collection, but that is not presented at couture fashion week. As a brand and company, we have all aligned that right now is the time to really focus all our energies on mainline and accessories, because this brand has to sell more than just clothing to survive.

What are your favourite fabrics to work with?

Now that I am designing womenswear, I’m discovering many more fabrics and am particularly understanding the power of silk, as it really transforms a creation. Whether it is from matte to shiny, the lightweight fabric can be layered up to make something sculptural, or can be fluid and sensual. I also love mohair as it is impeccable for never creasing and looking good no matter the circumstances.

How do you think your menswear background is serving you now in a woman’s world?

As a menswear designer the terrain is very narrow because a man’s needs and expectations are set in rules. Menswear is practical and has a function, with every element of the design being considered, from the placement of buttons to how the sleeves move, and the minute it does not fulfil these requirements the consumer isn’t interested, giving it a real authenticity. Womenswear however, is a much faster process with numerous collections, meaning a lot of womenswear designers don’t have the time to engage in the small details, leaving that to members of the product team later in the design journey. Due to my background in menswear, I have come in and questioned all of this, really considering how to make the product softer and more flexible to wear. A lot of womenswear pieces are over industrialised to keep them glamorous, and I have looked to change this to give more logic to the collections rather than just an explosion of ideas. There is an attention to detail in menswear which I am looking to apply to womenswear.

Tell us about your first meeting with Roberto Cavalli?

Obviously for both of us it was a big moment. I was about to meet a celebrity and a man who has dedicated his whole life to the brand, and he was about to meet an unknown, English, menswear designer who was about to take over his glamazonian powerhouse! But he was an inspirational and incredible gentleman, and we had an encouraging conversation with me taking away a real understanding of his passion.

How important is passion in what you do?

Fundamental. I can’t survive without passion.

How would you describe the brand in one word?

Unique.

In a time where everything has become accessible on social media, where do you think luxury is positioned?

Luxury is in the storytelling and the service. It is buying in store as opposed to online, when you can engage on a personal level.

What are your feelings on unisex collections and shows?

I think its relevant, although it manifests itself after a time when people have been talking about gender equality, so I see it more as a political stance. However, it is not something for Roberto Cavalli, as the woman is the core, and the man is a man, so we are a brand where the sexuality is not something which can be blurred. Roberto Cavalli is about celebrating the sensuality of an alpha woman.

Can you share with us a life lesson that you would like to pass on?

Never regret something you have done, only regret something you haven’t done.

When you wake up every morning, what do you tell yourself?

Be strong.

What are the three things that you hate?

Inconsistency, disloyalty, and cheapness.

What scares you?

Failure.

What is your perfect ‘me-time’?

A hot bath with lots of bubbles!

Do you listen to music?

I love Rihanna and put her on in the studio when we need some energy. I also like James Blake, so as you can tell, I have a mixed taste.

How do you describe your personal style?

Authentic and practical. I like things to be simple, and less is more, although I am not a minimalist.

If you weren’t a designer, what would you be?

I would have loved to be a dancer or choreographer, and I also love photography.

Do you have any regrets?

Maybe not believing in myself, and feeling unconfident as a young guy, and not taking as many risks as I should have done.

Can you share with us another brand which you respect?

Hermès, as they don’t follow fashion, living beyond the phase of trends, instead creating their own world.

What are your objectives for 2018, personal and professional?

Personally, I want to join a gym and get a trainer to get myself mentally and physically in the best shape. Professionally I would love to get the collection and the brand into a safe place to create some core successful products to permit us to start breathing again.

How would you like the world to remember you?

Passionate.

What would you like to tell our readers?

Live life by your own rules, with a respect for others as we all live together in a small universe.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

Between the cross-junctions of engineering and precision timing, motorsports and watchmaking have long held a synergistic relationship, thus the collaboration between Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse and the birth of the limited edition Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S. Stemming from a shared focus on aesthetics in their respective approaches, Roger Dubuis and Lamborghini Squadra Corse Excalibur Aventador S combines the design skills of Manufacture Roger Dubuis and the legendary Centro Stile R&D department of Lamborghini into a limited-edition Excalibur watch which combines high horology with high material technology including multi-layered carbon and C-SMC carbon, the same technology as that used for Lamborghini super cars.

Are your collaborations part of a strategy to make the brand more visible?

Yes exactly, they are about enriching our customer experience program and product development, not only with watches but also with supercars. Over the past two years I have been researching many brands, from helicopters and private planes, to yachting and motorbikes, finally settling on Lamborghini and Pirelli. We wanted to have these types of partnerships to be exposed to a customer base who are relative to Roger Dubuis.

What are the common codes between the brands with which you partner?

Lamborghini is a brand which you either like or you don’t, like Roger Dubuis. They are not cars and watches for everybody’s taste. We also have a lot of other similarities, from our production numbers to how we both strive to merge high-tech engineering with flamboyant design, we are also both small companies that belong to major groups. We have a coherent objective and vision together, and believe that a partnership exists if it makes sense for the customer.

What is an objective that you are aiming to achieve?

Brand visibility. We want to demonstrate to the world that we are the most avant-garde brand in the watchmaking industry, and our collaborations are platforms to boost brand awareness. Alone, you are not as powerful.

What is your view on over-visibility, especially with the growth of the digital world?

I feel that brands certainly over expose themselves, and when you see too much of a brand it is not as powerful. We as a brand are far from being in that field for a simple reason, we sell smaller units which keeps us niche. Our mission is to make spectacular models with true storytelling, which are limited to the world. With the Lamborghini partnership for example, the watch has been limited to 88 pieces worldwide, and just 6 for the Middle East region.

To what extent do you feel passion is important in the watchmaking business?

It is probably the number one fuel to activate the industry. If you work well, it will ultimately translate into numbers sold. You work to create products that have a different appeal to everything else in the industry.

What is coming up for the brand?

We will be looking to give women their share, as currently for women the styles are in size 42, and were a men’s concept which we womanised. However, we will be introducing the 36 at SIHH this year, which has been made especially for women.

Do you think ladies are now understanding the complications, and no longer just seeing watches as jewellery?

Of course, it is a masculine world but you do have women who are interested by mechanical details and complications, as long as the watch has a visual added value.

What is a life lesson that you would like to pass on?

Don’t be afraid and be creative. If you have a target you should be consistent for the long term, believing in what you do.

What do you tell yourself when you wake up every morning?

I wake up with the belief that nothing is impossible.

What are the three things that you hate?

Arrogance, stupidity, and people who don’t question the world as it is today.

What scares you?

The only issue that scares me the most is having issues with my health. I look after myself, putting my body through a lot, depending on always being healthy.

Do you read?

I read a lot of newspapers and magazines, especially because I spend a large amount of my time travelling. I like to be able to catch up on the latest news and culture about where I am visiting next.

Can you share with us your perfect ‘me-time’?

I take my music and I go running. Listing to pop music gives me energy to run faster!

Do you have any regrets in life?

Possibly dedicating too much time to work, when life should be about balance.

What is your opinion on social media, influencers, and blogging?

About three years ago I was aware social media was existing, but I didn’t give enough attention to it, however now I know that I do need to. We are a brand which by its expression is very well adapted for social media, because of the theatre that we create with our products and advertising. So, social media can highlight and support the exuberance of our brand, and we are embracing it.

What are your resolutions for 2018 personally and professionally?

Professionally it is to not change anything, as although we have signed the contracts and created partnerships, it is now about implementing them. This is through marketing and customer experience, and requires a different energy. Personally, it is to continue enjoying life at the same speed, as boring isn’t in my blood.

Finally, can you sum up Roger Dubuis?

Exuberant, mechanical, and spectacular timepieces.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

Modern comfort with turn-of-the-century charm, Hôtel Royal Savoy Lausanne in Switzerland is the ultimate escape for opulence and fine service.

Location

Sandwiched between Lake Geneva and the tiered alleys of historic Lausanne, the Royal Savoy is handily located for the city’s main points of interest. On foot, the central shops and bars can be reached in 15 minutes, while the excellently interactive Olympic Museum is the same distance away along the lakefront. Little wonder the hotel isn’t short of a view, from the rooftop Sky Lounge, you can see the UNESCO-listed vineyards of Lavaux and, on a clear day, Geneva.  

With turrets that rise between gigantic listed pines, the imposing Art Nouveau structure is a sleek affair in shades of grey. Its landscaped parkland, well-appointed spa with indoor and outdoor pools, and sky lounge with 360-degree panoramas, inspire relaxation.

Style

A recent refurbishment restored the Royal Savoy to its former glory, with a modern twist. In the lobby, intricate murals based on originals uncovered in the building lead the eye to ceilings of ecclesiastical proportions. They lend roominess for a dramatic chandelier and gallery wall, which can be enjoyed from velvet seating.

Rooms

The hotel is split into two sections, in the historic building there are 101 rooms which have the views, and in the new wing there are 95, all storm cloud grey against mahogany, creating the feel of a sleek bachelor pad. Opulent throws and chrome detailing complete the moody look. While the emphasis is on design, attention has been paid to function, heavy-weight curtains block out light, and mirrored walls artfully make the standard rooms seem bigger. The brightly lit bathrooms have good showers, soft towels and Hermés toiletries, and in some, deep Japanese bathtubs.  

Food & Drink

Signature chef Marc Haeberlin has three Michelin stars, but La Brasserie du Royal is designed to be down-to-earth. During the day, the Sky Lounge and the manicured Japanese garden, where gigantic listed pines offer shade, are good for light bites and cocktails.

Spa

Headed by charismatic Jocelyn Pederson, who has worked at some of the world’s leading spas, it is a haven of black marble, and is generously outfitted. There’s a large indoor pool that spreads outside into a bamboo-bordered garden, a plunge pool, foot baths, a sauna, two steam rooms, and treatments which are just as impressive.

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With over a hundred pieces, Cartier’s latest high jewellery collection is considerable, which means every piece must hold its own against a host of resplendent siblings.

Each piece, says Creative Director Jacqueline Karachi, has its own rhythm on a spectrum ranging between serenity and strength. But the inspiration behind the Résonances de Cartier collection was to bring it all together in harmony, much like a choir.

Can you tell us more about the Résonances de Cartier collection and its character?

We have translated the energy we feel when we discover the stone, and we try to decode and amplify this so that we can explain to you how we feel in front of the stone. It is a transmission of the sense of high jewellery, which are stones, and when decoded everyone can understand the essence of our creations. The creations all form a collection which I liken to an orchestra, and every instrument is a stone which plays a different part to create a harmony.

Do you listen to music when you are designing?

Yes, because it speaks to my emotions.

Can you share with us which stone is dominant in this collection, and why it is special to you?

For me there are no dominant stones, they are all different and unique. However, the tourmaline stone is particularly unique to me, as it is the first time I have seen such a stone. I personally travel internationally to find the stones which make up the collection, and when I see a special stone the energy feels so intense, which is very hard to put into words.

Tell us about the 84-carat watermelon tourmaline stone?

This is an incredible stone, and maybe the first and last of this type of stones. We searched for others so we could make a set, but it was impossible to find a stone like it. The colour tones and the arrangement of them from the centre to the outside are truly unique.

Do you personally have a favourite stone?

I don’t especially, and it is not so much a question of a particular one, but it is more to be moved by the stone.

Can you describe your typical design process?

It starts with the stones, and when we have the chosen stones we ask the designers to select the stone they like. From there, the style will be chosen from a bracelet, necklace, ring, or earrings, and then the designer will look to the stone for its message and decide what spirit to translate with it, through the addition of further stones. We always wait for the story that comes from the stone, and the emotion it translates.

What is a direction and mood that you still aim to work on with a jewellery collection?

To express something we need, because we live in a society where we are like sponges and react to what happens in the world. The theme comes from what we are missing, and what women need to feel good.

HYPERBOLE

Can you share with us the challenges that you have faced across your career?

The evolution of Cartier style is very important to me, and that can certainly be challenging. When I receive positive feedback to a new collection it really matters. As an artist I always feel doubt before presenting pieces to the world, so recognition really matters.

MOIRE

Tell us something that you dislike in life?

Lying, as it is important for me to be authentic.

What is the main value that you live by?

When there is a will there is a way. I like this because it is what I have done, my career growth has been unexpected, and I like to challenge myself.

HARMONIE

CARBONADO

How would you like the world to remember you?

I don’t mind whether the world remembers me, but I don’t want my creations to be forgotten, and I don’t want my team to forget what I have taught them.

Can you share with us what we can expect next from Cartier?

Something different!

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

FAWAZ GRUOSI

Forming a partnership that will bring to auction the most exquisite diamonds ever offered to the market, Christie’s and de Grisogono have joined together for their first auction in Geneva, presenting a unique necklace suspending a 163.41-carat, D colour, flawless, IIA type diamond.

The ‘4 de Fevereiro’ rough is the 27th biggest rough white diamond ever discovered and the largest in Angola. The rough was analysed in Antwerp and cut in New York, where a team of 10 diamond-cutting specialists were involved in mapping, plotting, cleaving, laser-cutting and polishing the rough 404.20 carat into a unique 163.41 carat emerald-cut stone.

Not only is this perfect white diamond the largest of its kind ever to come to auction and the most valuable gem the house has ever set, it is also the first step in a game-changing move for de Grisogono on the cusp of its 25th anniversary. So, following the recent record-breaking auction, where the necklace achieved a hammer price of US $33,701,000, we discover the process which took the precious stone from mine to auction.

The Stone

On the eve of 4th February 2016, in eastern Angola, the Lulo mine revealed its greatest treasure yet, a 404.20-carat rough diamond. To pay tribute to the day the country commemorates its long journey to independence, it was named the ‘4 de Fevereiro’ and is the 27th biggest rough white diamond ever discovered. It is also the largest to be found in Angola, assuring its place in diamond history. Soon after its discovery, de Grisogono was able to secure the stone, and under the guidance of Fawaz Gruosi the jewellery house was then able to apply their unique creative vision.

The Cutting and Polishing Process

For the next stage of its journey, the ‘4 de Fevereiro’ travelled to New York, where it took 11 months to analyse, map, cleave, laser cut and polish the elegant 163.41-carat emerald-cut stone we see today. The almost rectangular shape of the stone inclined the cutters to opt for an emerald cut and, on the 29th June 2016, the first cleave was made by hand in the presence of Fawaz Gruosi and his team.

The Creative Process

In December 2016, the 163.41-carat diamond left New York and travelled to de Grisogono’s headquarters in Geneva. The challenge for Fawaz Gruosi and his team was to maintain the spirit of de Grisogono in a jewel worthy of this magnificent stone while not forgetting that it must be a wearable piece of jewellery of the utmost comfort. After two months, 50 different design options were reduced to just one, an asymmetric necklace with the 163.41-carat diamond as the centrepiece, enhanced with emerald-cut diamonds and emeralds.

The Craftsmanship

Over six months, a team of 14 master craftsmen and women, including eight jewellers, five setters and one engraver, lavished 1,700 hours on the creation, making each piece of the necklace by hand in de Grisogono’s high jewellery atelier. Working from a highly detailed life-size wax model, they meticulously refined every detail while the Gemmology department assembled the thousands of emeralds and diamonds, each cut individually to ensure the harmony of the design.

Here, we talk to Gruosi, Founder & Creative Director of de Grisogono about the journey that brought him to the moment of auction, and what makes this such a work of art.

Tell us about the design and how it came to life?

This was the result of almost 50 designs which I sketched after looking, playing, and holding the stone. After this I had to try and choose between all of them, which was a tough choice, but finally I went with this design.

Why did you choose to combine it with a cuff bracelet?

Technically speaking, you can see all of the stone with both pieces, and I think the cuff gives the owner more opportunities to wear this amazing diamond.

What would you tell the new owner of this beautiful piece of art?

That I am sad to say goodbye, as I have grown attached to the piece since I have spent a lot of time with the stone, both designing and on tour travelling with it.

Why green?

I chose emeralds because I love the green colour and mixing it with other stones. The green gives great contrast and enhances both colours. And, being Italian, I am superstitious. Green means good luck, and you will see a lot of it in my collections.

Tell us about why you chose to pair up with Christie’s?

I have known Christie’s for many years, and due to their extensive global channels, it made it possible to have a worldwide auction. This offered a great amount of visibility for the piece and attracted a lot of attention.

What are you currently working on now?

So many things! We have Basel coming up and are currently working on the prototype for this, together with continuing to concentrate on the quality of diamonds. It is not all about the 300 and 160 carat pieces, it is also about the 10 and below carats.

Tell us about your journey and what motivates you?

I started as a jeweller in Florence and I have been incredibly lucky throughout my journey. Everything came to me, which was a miracle. I’m not working, I am playing, making sure that I make beautiful pieces, and my clients feel it.

What do you hate?

I hate liars and show-offs.

How would you describe de Grisogono in three words?

Love, love, love.

Can you share with us your objectives and main resolutions for the new year?

To push more for the excitement of evolving.

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With a diamond of this importance, a unique sales process is required. Having handled some of the world’s most valuable diamonds, de Grisogono and Christie’s have entered a partnership to offer The Art of de Grisogono series. So, following the record breaking evening sale on 14th November 2017, we took the opportunity to speak with Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewellery at Christie’s, who shared the story and privilege behind handling the world’s rarest and most historic diamond.

What was your impression of today?

It was a very exciting day for us at Christie’s in Geneva. We had a very special auction, presenting and achieving a world record price for a unique necklace suspending a 163.41-carat, D colour, flawless, IIA type diamond. There was a lot of action during the 6-7 minutes it took to sell this unique jewel, with more than 3 people bidding in the room and on the phones.

Was this one of your most expensive auctions?

It is not the most expensive auction, but it is the most expensive jewel. It is amongst the top auctions which we have had.

Tell us about whether you think the trend for auctions is changing?

We still have people buying online, so technology is very much part of our sales. However, we are a 251-year-old company, and although we are still very traditional in our business, we also incorporate modern technology, evolving with it. When it comes to this type of jewel, people want to come and see the piece, and need personal attention, meaning the human relationship is still necessary.

What would you advise for first time potential buyers at auctions?

I would advise attending the exhibition before the sale, together with talking with a specialist who can advise you on what you are looking to buy, and the cost it entails. Then you should make your limitations and calculations, so that when you come to the auction you just do as you have prepared and enjoy the show, as it is like theatre.

How do you consider jewellery as an investment?

Jewellery is always a good investment. Sometimes it takes time for your purchase to appreciate in value, so it is about buying correctly and waiting the right amount of time for your investment to appreciate.

Can you share with us a memorable auction that you can recall?

There have been many great moments, with today being particularly memorable, mainly because of the high value of the diamond, and there was also the Elizabeth Taylor auction which was a great moment in jewellery auction history. However, at the end of the day it is about the full auction process which can take up to six months, from finding the jewellery to making the deals, which all boils down to one day of sales, and is like coming to the end of a marathon.

What objectives would you still like to achieve in life?

I would like to be a trusted adviser to collectors all around the world.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

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One Of The Largest Diamonds In The World Comes To Dubai

On the avenue between the Arc de Triomphe and Parc Monceau, grand Royal Monceau was reborn after a Philippe Starck makeover as a self-proclaimed luxury art hotel.

It all started with the desire to remodel the classic codes of luxury hotels and project them into a new dimension. But the project also derives from an affirmation of a slightly insane, infinitely poetic determination to break with custom, to steer clear of the apparently inevitable, to welcome the unusual, and to declare a tenderness for panache and impertinence, for fantasy and excess, while still cherishing rigour and perfection.

Style

The hotel is a combination of both decadence and modernity, with exposed brickwork, plush carpets and iron railings. It’s at its best downstairs in the public spaces, the lounge stretches endlessly mixing vistas and secluded corners, with illuminated Long Bar, and a cascade of chandeliers in the stairwell. The concept store, art gallery, bookshop and private cinema show how the hotel has branched out into an overall lifestyle concept.

Rooms

The 149 rooms and suites are far from designer minimalism, rather, a Starck-conceived artistic clutter of eclectic lamps and tables, mixing retro and contemporary touches, with a vast island bed, photos and artworks propped against the wall and a guitar for you to strum. There’s even a transportable recording studio if you wish. Bathrooms are lined with mirrors and crammed with Clarins miniatures.

Privé

Behind a discreet entrance on the chic avenue Hoche, next to Le Royal Monceau, is a collection of heavenly suites, including three spectacular 350sqm Presidential Suites. Each one is designed as an exclusive private residence, with levels of service worthy of a great private house. Set over five floors, these beautifully sophisticated, flexible suites offer their guests not only the services of the hotel, but also private and secure entry through 41 avenue Hoche, and direct access to the hotel’s idyllic spa. The largest suites also have a private hammam and gym, and a home cinema with next-generation technology.

Food & Drink

Cocktails and chic tapas at the Long Bar have become a hot Parisian destination, and there’s a members-only enclosed red Fumoir for cigar smokers. The two restaurants have each gained one Michelin star. It’s French cuisine from recent arrival Hans Zahner at La Cuisine with its mega lamps and painted ceiling, and Tuscan specialities from Roberto Rispoli at the shell-grotto style Il Carpaccio trattoria, with Sicilian baroque decor in a conservatory overlooking the garden.

Spa

The spa is home to the city’s biggest indoor pool, at 23m long, with mirrors covering one wall and a soothing shade of white everywhere else. The treatments are in Spa My Blend by Clarins, and offer a unique haven of peace and relaxation in the heart of Paris.

Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris is a member of The Leading Hotels of the World, a collection of authentic and uncommon luxury hotels. Rooted in the locations where they are found, the hotels embody the very essence of their destinations. Offering varied styles of architecture and design, and immersive cultural experiences delivered by passionate people, LHW’s collection is for the curious traveller looking for their next discovery. Established in 1928 by several influential and forward-thinking European hoteliers, Leading Hotels has an eight decade-long commitment to providing remarkable travel experiences.

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Companies are best described by their mottos, and Christian Dior is among the few that stay loyal to them, following Mr Dior’s maxim that, ‘genuine luxury requires genuine materials and the craftsman’s sincerity.’ Laurence Nicolas, President of Dior Watches and Jewellery, continues to forcefully remain true to this way of thinking, strengthening the brand since she was appointed to her current position in February 2008, in addition to her role as Head of Dior Fine Jewellery.

A graduate of Reims Business School, Laurence Nicolas began her career as auditor at Coopers and Lybrand. She then joined Cartier where she was active in sales and marketing before being appointed at Christian Dior Couture in 2001 for the development of the fine jewellery activity.

Here we take the opportunity to talk with Nicolas during Dubai Watch Week, and get an understanding of her dynamic approach, together with future plans for the year ahead.

Why did you decide to participate this year at Dubai Watch Week?

Because I love this region, and I think the Seddiqi family organised something that is amazing at expressing the different brands and the timepieces in the industry. It is a platform for conveying messages in a non-commercial way, which I feel is a very elegant way to talk, share and discuss in terms of refinement and sophistication.

You are moving this year from presenting at Baselword to Paris instead, can you tell us about this?

It will be in mid-March, and will be at our Salon in Paris. We decided to go back to France as we wanted to go back to our roots. There was no need for us as a Haute Couture brand to continue to be part of the masculine Swiss watchmaking industry, especially because we are not looking to recruit more sales. We want to continue to be selective, and invite the best people to see what we are presenting in Paris instead.

Dior Watches, A&E Magazine November Issue.

What can we expect to see in 2018 from Dior watches?

I think we will surprise you, with a real direction towards women. We are really building the pillars of feminine beauty, enhancing the refinement of the brand in every tiny detail. Every year we partner with the best craftsmen we can find in the industry, and we will continue with this strategy creating with even more high-end jewellery timepieces.

What do you feel are the current challenges in the watch industry?

I think we should try and be loyal to who we are. The danger for timepiece brands is to try to be everywhere, and we don’t want to be that, instead staying loyal to Mr Dior’s commitment which is feminine beauty and craftmanship, but at the service of creativity.

How would you describe Dior timepieces in three words?

Creativity, excellence, and femininity. Although I think the word couture really encapsulates everything.

What is your New Year’s resolution?

To have more time for everyone I love, my friends and family. I want to be more available.

Can you share with us your personal motto?

My father died and shared some very crucial words with me, ‘don’t be passive in front of your life, and take your life in your hands.’

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Produced in collaboration with the famed Formula 1 constructor, the new Richard Mille calibre is a technical masterpiece offering off-the-chart mechanical performance, and is the first expression of a 10-year collaboration between the two teams.

Here, CEO’s Richard Mille and Mike Flewitt share their passion for an innovative use of materials and unconventional designs, offering a glimpse into the world of fast cars and fine watchmaking.

Richard Mille, CEO and Founder Richard Mille.

Why McLaren?

McLaren is one of the most successful automotive brands having won multiple world championships in F1 and the 24 hours of Le Mans, and is today a serious player within the highly competitive sports car sector. We have a ten-year agreement which shows how serious we both are about working together. We are also two young players in our respective fields, with us existing since 2001 and McLaren in the Sports Car sector since only 2010.

What are the 3 common codes that both brands have in common?

McLaren like Richard Mille are driven by extreme technology, passion, and exclusivity. They like us have an obsession to achieve perfection no matter what the cost. We really can say that we have found each other, and know that this partnership was meant to be!

Tell us about the brand collaboration?

We have been a partner to McLaren since early 2016, and the very first watch development is the RM 50-03 Tourbillon which was presented last January in Geneva. This is the lightest mechanical chronograph in the world, weighing less than 40 grams including the strap. This was achieved thanks to the use of Graph TPT, a material introduced to Richard Mille by McLaren. The Tourbillon movement also pushes the limits with its integrated chronograph, and we tried to shave weight wherever possible whilst maintaining the best performance. Having access to the McLaren Technology Centre provides so many opportunities to share materials, ideas, and developments, and we are only really in the first phase of our collaboration.

What watch from Richard Mille do you have on your wrist and why?

The RM 60-01 Navigation watch. I love its technicity and despite its size, it is very light and comfortable to wear. Having this yellow strap adds real colour to it.

What is your favourite car from McLaren?

The McLaren F1 M19, but unfortunately I don’t yet own this car!

Tell us a major life lesson you would pass on to your children and team?

To follow your heart and passion, whilst keeping a level head.

What is your personal motto?

Either do things properly and without compromise, or not at all!

Can you share with us what annoys you?

The obsession of volume in the luxury sector, whether it be watches of cars. Compromising on quality, and the lack of creativity brands have when developing new products by simply just following market trends.

What is your perfect ‘me’ time?

Looking after all my cars of course, whether it be at home or on the track!

Tell us your New Year resolutions?

To still have as much fun doing what I do, as I have done since the launch of the brand in 2001.

Mike Flewitt, CEO McLaren Automotive

Why Richard Mille?

Watches and performance cars share certain synergies which make auto-horological partnerships natural, and in the case of McLaren and Richard Mille, I believe our brands are perfectly aligned. At McLaren Automotive, we create ground-breaking, iconic sports cars and supercars designed to push the boundaries of design and performance. Richard Mille customers are drawn to McLaren’s cars, while our clientele immediately appreciates the daring and the craftsmanship that goes into these watches. We share an audience which is equally demanding, driven, and individual.

What are the 3 common codes that both brands have in common?

Innovation, attention-to-detail, and passion are hallmarks of both companies.

Tell us about the brand collaboration?

As you are aware, Richard Mille are already a Partner with McLaren Racing and have launched the first limited edition watch that has been made in collaboration with McLaren, I think this incredible product is a wonderful expression of the partnership. McLaren Automotive will also explore a number of joint initiatives which will demonstrate our expertise within our respective industries as we both continue to develop our customer experience.

What watch from Richard Mille do you like and why?

As an engineer by training, I can honestly say that the RM 50-03 McLaren F1 is the most incredible watch I have ever seen, and a technical collaboration McLaren can be justifiably proud of.

What is your favourite car from McLaren?

The 720S is, we believe, the world’s best supercar and I am very lucky to have one in my garage, it is just so rewarding to drive. Looking ahead though, even greater things are coming. We are readying a new, track-focused Ultimate Series car codenamed P15, which will be the most extreme road-legal McLaren ever.

Tell us a major life lesson you would pass on to your children and team?

Strive for perfection and never give up trying.

What is your personal motto?

If everything seems under control, you are not going fast enough.

Can you share with us what annoys you?

The one thing that really annoys me is my wife Mia beating me on the track!

What is your perfect ‘me’ time?

I love cars, so it would be racing my two 1960s Lotuses on a beautiful race track.

Tell us your New Year resolutions?

Like Richard Mille, McLaren Automotive is a relatively young company, and our pace of evolution and growth is astounding. The goal from day one was to build the world’s best sports cars and I believe our current range fulfils that promise. But now we’re about to find an even higher gear and, with a couple of stunning models in the pipeline and some headline-grabbing unveilings planned, the objective is to take our game to the ultimate level. Our resolution is to never stop improving and if the technology doesn’t exist, create it, there is still extra performance to extract.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

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Chic and neat, the new bag code is small and petite. Enough space to carry your essentials, yet the right size to take for an evening out. It’s time to shrink your collection with our guide to wearing mini bags.

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To enjoy city retreat in Geneva with a breath-taking mountain backdrop, look no further than the Mandarin Oriental.

This was the first hotel to be built in Europe after the Second World War, and has views across to the snow-capped mountains beyond the city. Much of i ts early modernist, Art Deco style was preserved when it was renovated by the Mandarin Oriental group under Adam D Tihany, creating an elegant hotel fit for the 21st century. Just a 15-minute drive from the airport, the hotel borders the banks of the River Rhône, with a footbridge a few steps away leading into the Old Town and the elegant designer boutiques which line the streets of Geneva.

Style

Originally built in 1950 as the Hotel du Rhône, in early modernist, Art Deco style, the public areas were completely renovated in 2008 by New York-based designer Adam D Tihany using materials of cherry wood, silk, mirrors, and bold colours, creating an opulent feel. Bedrooms and suites were refurbished in 2013 by Sybille de Margerie with her trademark warmth and an emphasis on comfortable luxury.

Rooms

The 189 rooms and suites feel effortlessly elegant, with warm earth tones, soft wool carpets and spacious Greek marble bathrooms, with walk-in rain showers and tubs. On the sixth floor, the Mandarin rooms come in palettes of fuchsia and silver, with tones of gold, and have two separate Italian marble bathrooms with Shanghai Tang amenities. The spacious Junior Terrace Suites and the ultra-luxurious Mandarin, Oriental and Presidential Suites are designed by Buz Design from Hong Kong, and all have terraces overlooking the river.

Food & Drink

The hotel’s signature restaurant is ‘Rasoi by Vineet’. Its vivid red and purple décor is a background for sensational Indian dishes from Chef Vineet Bhatia, and in the summer it spills out on to a street-side terrace. The less formal Café Calla serves modern French and health-conscious cuisine, with an emphasis on regional products.

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Nezha Alaoui is not only the Creative Director of her own brand Mayshad Paris but she is an artist, successful photographer, designer, mother, and humanitarian.

The purpose of Mayshad Paris was not just to create a fashion brand for the love of luxury, but to send a message to women around the world to empower themselves. The name Mayshad itself comes from the first syllables of both her daughter’s names, putting them not only in the centre of her life but in the centre of her life’s project.

As a woman from North Africa with a French education and American living experience, Nezha has developed a presence in 4 continents, allowing her a great reach for her strong message for women to ‘be what you want to be’, a movement that inspires women to accept themselves as they are and embrace the different aspects of their lives, with love and passion in order to achieve their goals and dreams.

Besides being a motivational woman of substance, Nezha has created a luxury handbag brand which has gone on to receive recognition for its socially responsible approach and importance given to craftsmanship, design, and customer service. Here, we talk to Nezha to find out how Mayshad Paris came about and the steps she takes to make her life more positive.

Every woman feels that she has a message to share at some point in her life, did you ever have this feeling?

Yes, I definitely did, and it was a feeling that scared me at a younger age, as I was feeling that I was not like my friends who didn’t question life. At a young age I was always thinking about what I should achieve and the meaning of life, and my peers were not in the same headspace, so I tried to run away from that by going into a very classical life.

You are a successful photographer, how did you discover this skill?

By the age of 27 I had my daughters and had found myself in a comfort zone. It was at this point that I wanted to find out who I really wanted to be, and so that’s when I decided to become a photographer, taking on missions for the United Nations.

Tell us about the Mayshad Foundation?

I have always had a social side to me since I was 16 years old, as when I was growing up I would always try to make an impact on those less fortunate than myself. Instead of just giving money to a charity, I would always do an action, such as organising an afternoon party in an orphanage to give them memorable moments. This was always nurturing my soul and was a part of my personality, so it was only natural to create a foundation to channel this.

What does the name Mayshad mean?

The name comes from the first syllables of both my daughter’s names. I created Mayshad before the handbags were a business idea, and when I set up the company I didn’t know what it would become, but I knew it would be a company that would carry out projects with a positive impact and an empowering message. So, when I came to start designing handbags, it was clear to me that they should be called Mayshad.

What is special about your handbag brand is that it relays a message and emotion. But how challenging is it to position your brand among other luxury brands?

It was certainly very difficult at the beginning, finding that conviction to pursue the project as I was faced with a lot of discouragement. But what saved me was that I never felt in competition with other brands, as the woman that carries a Mayshad bag is not a woman who will give up on other brands. I want her to carry the Mayshad bag on that day when she wants some extra empowerment, or a day when she wants to be individual. It was that vision that was very clear in my head, and allowed me to never feel discouraged, and see that there was space for my brand. Now, the most difficult part is the sourcing and not the selling. It is finding the right people to make the product and to get the right level of quality and craftmanship. It has always been important for me to produce in small quantities, as I wanted to remain exclusive.

Do you remember when you first carried one of your own bags and which one it was? What was the impact and what did your friends say?

It was the BFF bag, and it was loved because of the leathers, something that really differentiates our bags. You cannot invent a shape that hasn’t existed before, so instead it is about how it is crafted and what materials it is made from. It is a natural process using your handbag, so it is imperative to me that your bag needs to be practical, and so I always insist on it being light and easy to use. However, as I create each collection I feel that it comes with mixed emotions. Every design and creation is like giving birth and holding a baby, it couples a huge amount of pride together with the baby blues. After spending a great length of time creating, it is suddenly out there in the open, and is no longer just yours.

Let’s talk about the leathers and colours, what was behind the inspiration of your current palette of shades?

Alongside the beautiful pastel shades is the use of the arabesque pattern. From day one everyone wanted me to go back to my roots, and use this Moroccan print and influence, however I wanted to wait until I could allow it the justice it deserved, and that is now.

You are a self-empowered woman, can you share with us a story where you felt reborn?

For some people, an external accident happens in your life which forces you to re-evaluate everything, whereas in my case it was not something that was forced upon me. Instead I chose to force myself out of a very stable and sustainable life in order to build something that was more meaningful. Stepping out of your comfort zone is essential to building something that is truly sustainable and for me this was the case when I was 27. I had my 2 daughters, 12 stores and a loving husband, living a life that was very much successful to the eyes of society, yet that was not really who I wanted to be. So, with a great amount of courage I left a society that was not allowing me to grow anymore, and part of that involved leaving the father of my children. It was not something that he understood back then, however I needed to be logical and explain that I was not fully committed to that life. Taking out the loving element in my life, together with having my daughters by my side, I built Mayshad, and only reintegrated everyone once I had succeeded.

What do you fear in life?

What I have feared before is not what I fear today. In the past, I feared not being able to fit in, but between the ages of 27 and 30 I freed myself of those insecurities. What I fear now is losing the values in my soul, and this is particularly something that I feel after fashion week and other equally glamorous occasions. So, I will always try to balance this by taking some time out to work with my foundation, which forces me back down to earth.

What can we expect to see next with the Mayshad brand?

There will be a men’s collection, and also a travel collection, and then later on I think my daughters will be involved with a children’s bag collection. My idea is to create one bag where you choose the base colour and then you can add many accessories and different colourways and patchworks to personalise it, and of course it would be made in leather.

How can we expect to see your product lines expand?

I am looking to expand into shoes and I already have a great contact in Italy, so I just need to find the time to go and explore that. The key to these shoes is that they need to be very comfortable, whether they are flat, midsize, or high. There are so many shoes out there and to differentiate mine they need to be able to support the Mayshad woman.

What 3 words describe your brand?

Luxury, exclusivity, and empowerment.

What would you like to share with the women of the Middle East?

I have a lot of respect for their evolution, and I find a lot of empowerment and education in women from the Middle East. They are smart women who can really understand the message behind my brand.

Many people will look up to your success story, especially because you have achieved it at a young age. What would be your advice for others to make it to the next level?

Ultimately it is to have conviction, and to believe in yourself. You need to understand who you are and what you can do, accepting yourself and knowing what are your limits and advantages. Secondly, you need to be disciplined, as there is no success story that has been built overnight. It isn’t even instant for the person who wins the lottery, they have been buying a ticket for years before. Above all, there is always a need for commitment to achieve your dream.

If you are not carrying a Mayshad bag, which brand would you carry?

I love Chanel bags, but in all the different textures and materials, rather than just the classics. I like to have something new, unique, and creative.

How would you like the world to remember you?

As a doer in life and someone who inspires other people to do. Nothing is impossible but everything demands a lot of work.

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

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Synonymous with bohemian style, the Italian house is a master printmaker, and has emerged as the go-to label for ultra-wearable luxury.

Launched as a textile house in 1968, the swirling paisleys and intricate floral prints have become something of a leitmotif for the family run Italian label. Making ultra-desirable clothes that people want to live in, Veronica and her three brothers, Jacopo, Kean and Ippolito grew up immersed in an archetypal Italian fashion dynasty, the colourful world of Etro.

Veronica joined in 1998 after studying at London’s Central Saint Martins, presenting her first collection as womenswear creative director in 2000. The key to success for this family business has clearly been having an ironclad brand signature, that customers can really buy into, and with Veronica being at the helm of design, she has carefully set about infusing the label’s rich heritage with a modern bohemian sensibility. Fine tuning its hallmarks, she has slowly, surely, and deliberately transformed the textile brand into not just a go-to for artisanal staples, but a fashion-forward destination for oh-so-desirable dresses which combine a fusion of paisley, diaphanous fabrics, intricate detailing and luxe layering with eclectic spirit.

The driving force behind fashion house’s womenswear, Veronica Etro moves seamlessly between tradition and innovation, creating cool clothes that are perfect for the ‘cosmopolitan globetrotter’. Here we talk to the designer about what is key to the perfect print, fusing heritage and modernity, and how this 50-year-old label continues to create the most-wanted pieces of the season, every season.

Who is the Etro woman?

The Etro woman is individualistic, strong, and independent, together with being exotic, eclectic, ironic and she always smiles. She likes to play with clothes, but she does not take them too seriously. She is not a fashion victim. For her, clothing is a creative expression, and there is a sense of freedom when she gets dressed. She follows her whims and enjoys the fantasy, and exoticism that fashion can bring. I design for a woman who is bold and is not afraid of colour, or a touch of eclecticism. She loves art, culture and she loves to travel like a new sort of globetrotter.

Can you tell us about the new AW17 collection, and what it embodies? What was the inspiration behind it?

The collection is a tribute to our heritage, embodying our tradition and different cultures, around an air of spirituality, energy, and positivity. Think about a congregation of free spirits, a fearless group of exploring women, who are bright, feisty, active, and energised, and these women congregate, celebrate, and share freely as in an altitude festival. Whether on a remote mountain tap pensive retreat, or a bustling city street, the mood is about a colour explosion and a total pattern collision. A mix of prints where mandalas, tie prints, and tree of life florals, are refracted into kaleidoscopes of new patterns, to add to the look a new exoticism. It’s an invite to join the Etro Paisley Tribe, a fearless group of exploring women.

How has the Paisley print changed over the years, yet remained powerful?

The Paisley design and patterns in general are central to Etro’s past, present and future. Every season, we take a new journey with the print. Though we have invented thousands of prints, the paisley is by far the most famous and well known of our family’s patterns, and is our signature pattern. The noble roots of this sinuous, stylised palm frond can be traced back thousands of years to Mesopotamia. Since then, the design has been used on ancient Indian shawls, on Celtic embroideries and on 19th century Parisian shawls. My father began using the pattern and it quickly become the symbol of the Etro brand. Its journey, over the course of thousands of years, is very inspirational to me. I love symbols that are rich in history.

Tell us about how you reinvent your signatures every season, whilst keeping things fresh?

Every season we develop and reinvent the classic paisley design in new ways. Either way, the design remains very powerful. The interesting thing about the paisley design is that it is unisex, it fits both men and women. What I like about it is that it has something cool and pop, think David Bowie, Janis Joplin and the Beatles wearing it, think about 1968 the revolution year, by the way the Etro brand was founded in 1968, so next year we will celebrate our 50th anniversary!

To you, what makes a timeless print?

At the heart of the brand is our family’s tradition with high-end fabrics and highly researched patterns. We always try to keep a balance between what feels new and fashionable, with what is traditionally relevant. We are not interested in creating trendy fashion collections but only timeless clothes. We want to be experimental but grounded, contemporary, but timeless. It is a finely tuned balance but it is what makes our company unique. It signifies timeless products rooted in tradition. We define these values as ‘New Tradition’, this means that I am always trying to balance the heritage of the brand with a modern touch. I think it is essential to get to the root of who you are and where you come from, but then to move into a new playground with it. I am always looking for ways of blending artisan know-how with creative experimentation, and what I am interested in is to work on heritage and the DNA of the brand to develop further its boundaries without really breaking with the past but looking to the future. Making an evolution and not a revolution!

Was working in the fashion industry always a career path that you wanted to take?

Creativity and art, in general fascinate me, and I always wanted to do something strictly creative. I grew up surrounded by beauty, art, and antiques, and this has developed and led my curiosity and approach. I always loved to be manual and creative and I really love my work because it is very versatile and different every day. Travel, art, print and photography are a sort of fil rouge in my personal and professional path, and in this sense, I like to work in fashion, because it goes beyond the dress, and is more about an artistic approach.

Your brand is a family-run fashion house. Why is this important to your business? What is the secret to your family’s success? Can you describe the process between you and your three siblings?

We are a very tight family and we share a common appreciation of our heritage, respect for our history and love for what our father started.  Everyone has their own individual taste, but we have a very similar philosophy of the brand and what it stands for. We all share the same goals and the same vision. We are also able to make very quick decisions without getting bogged down in bureaucracy. I think what is key to our success is that we each have clearly defined roles inside the company and we respect one another. Each of us is responsible for a different aspect and we allow one another the freedom to make decisions. We work together in the same space and in the same atmosphere comparing our vision and ideas, and we have fun with what we do!

How would you describe your own personal style?

My everyday life style is very colourful, eclectic, and comfortable. I have to be very ‘casual’ to start the day with my kids, then go to office where I am constantly moving up and down the stairs to follow all the work activities. I love to play with a touch of colour using a printed scarf or a printed silk shirt, or an ethnic necklace and pendant earrings. Clothes are our second skin, and I think it is very important that you can feel good, and able to personalise and play with your look, to have fun and to be happy!

What can we look forward to seeing next as your brand, and prints continue to evolve?

Every season we develop and reinvent the classic paisley design in new ways. It’s always stimulating to deal with such a decorative pattern as you can easily blend it with more geometrical designs, mix with flowers, stripes and polka dots or rework it with different techniques.  Sometimes I look at it through a very classic lens and sometimes I like to completely revolutionise it. Either way, the design remains very powerful.

By Eliza Scarborough