Backstage Beauty: Haute Couture FW 23/24

Emma Hodgson   |   09-09-2023

We take a look at the key Haute Couture makeup trends for this season, with a rundown of the essential details from the key houses at Paris Haute Couture FW 23/24.


Peter Philips has been at the helm of Dior Makeup for nearly a decade now. For the Haute Couture FW 23/24 show, the creative and image director for the house put forward a look “focused on a radiant and luminous dewy complexion”, he explains. Philips first prepped the skin with two Dior serums and the Dior Forever Glow Veil, before applying Dior Forever Skin Glow and Dior Forever Skin Correct. For the eyes, Philips used the Diorshow Brow Styler and Diorshow On Set Brown to lengthen eyebrows, he then used the transparent gold from the Diorshow 5 Couleurs 539 Grand Bal Palette and “an imperceptible touch” of the Diorshow Iconic Overcurl 090 Black on the root of the lashes. The look was then finished off with minimalist naturally styled lips, hair and nails.


Lisa Butler once again took the lead for Chanel’s latest beauty looks for the house’s Haute Couture FW 23/24 show. Butler created a smokey eye, complemented by full natural-look eyebrows, dewy skin and a neutral lip for the show. For the eyes, she applied the lightest shade of the Les 4 Ombres 308 Clair-Obscur just below the eyebrow arch, and then added a small touch of the lightest shade of the Les Beiges Healthy Glow Natural Eyeshadow Palette Medium in the inner corner of the eye. She then traced a line through the eyelashes using Le Crayon Yeux 19 Blue Jean, starting from the centre of the eyelid. She then finished the look with Le Crayon Khol 69 Clair inside the lower inner eyelid rim and Noir Allure 10 Noir mascara on the upper lashes. 


The theme for the most recent Valentino show was centred around ‘paradoxes’ and ‘simplicity’. However, the dialled-back makeup styled by Pat McGrath very much took inspiration from the latter of the two themes, with barely-there luminous coverage which allowed the Haute Couture and decadent jewellery to be the primary focus. Natural beauty was king (or rather, queen) in the show, which had the epitome of the “That Girl” trend – Kaia Gerber – as the first model to step out on the runway. Natural, glossy hair complemented the looks across the collection, while the occasional dramatic nail art spoke to the ‘paradoxes’ inspiration for the capsule.


For Fendi’s FW 23/24 Haute Couture show, longtime collaborator Peter Philips complemented Kim Jones’ spectacular collection for the house by creating a natural, shimmering makeup look. Philips focused on the skin which was kept to the current dewy, clean, hydrated trend paired with nude lips and nails. Eyes were kept free of mascara, with a little shadow brushed below the lower lid line in the outer corner. Meanwhile, Philips used highlighter on the cheekbones to further emphasise his base look for the skin. To complement the paired-down makeup look, Guido Palau created a sleek slicked-back wet-look hairstyle, which was styled differently throughout the show to suit each individual model’s hair type.  

Zuhair Murad 

The team at Charlotte Tilbury once again took the lead for Lebanese designer Zuhair Murad’s makeup creations for his latest Haute Couture collection. This time, Charlotte’s niece, Sofia Tilbury led the creative direction for the makeup at the show. She used the Charlotte Tilbury Magic Hydrator Mist and Beauty Light Wands, to create a fresh natural skin look. She then used Airbrush Flawless Lip Blur in Ruby Blur and Pillow Talk to complement the gothic glamour in the Murad show. To create the smokey eye look in the show she used the taupe tones from Tilbury’s Super Nudes Easy Eye Palette.


The house of Schiaparelli put forward perhaps one of the most daring and creative series of makeup looks at Haute Couture Week. Created by dream duo Pat McGrath (makeup) and Guido Palau (hair) the styled looks included everything from blue body paint to bleached brows. For the more subdued looks in the collection, (and as a base for the more inventive) McGrath used several products from her own collection. To prep the skin she used her Divine Skin: Rose001 The Essence. For the foundation, she used her Skin Fetish: Sublime Perfection The System, before adding colour to the cheeks with her Divine Blush: Colour Balm Collection.

Image credits: Olivier Rose for Christian Dior Parfums; CHANEL; Valentino; Fendi; Zuhair Murad; Schiaparelli