For Chanel’s latest haute couture collection revealed in Paris today, the house’s creative director Virginie Viard was inspired by the world of dance, and in particular ballet.
Margaret Qualley opening the Chanel Couture Spring 2024 show
The collection also marks 100 years since the house’s founder, Gabrielle Chanel, first designed pieces for the Ballets Russes of Léon Bakst and Sergei Diaghilev.
“I often think about dance, it’s an important theme at Chanel,” Viard said in the show notes which accompanied the collection.
“The House is close to its institutions, to its choreographers and dancers, and we create costumes for the ballet. I have tried to bring together the power and finesse of bodies and clothes in a very ethereal collection, composed of tulle, ruffles, pleats and lace,” she continued.
Viard also paid particular attention to the humble button in this collection. Discussing this focus in the show notes, the house said: “The button eases the opening and closing of a garment. Thanks to buttons, women could rid themselves of everything that had prevented them from moving freely. Gabrielle Chanel treated buttons with the utmost respect. Like a jewel, it adds a touch of daring and sparkle to the unique allure of which she was both theorist and artisan.”
“A symbol of emancipation, Viard takes this jewel-button into the world of ballet and dance. Here, fashion, music, theatre and painting come together as physical poetry and, touched by grace or wonderment, the performers briefly escape the laws of nature,” the notes continued.
Across the collection, there were down jackets in tulle and hoods, while there were also references to contemporary culture, for example through the style of heels presented in the show.
There were transparent short straight skirts, long dresses, jumpsuits and capes embellished with embroideries depicting draperies, bows, illusion tulle pockets, lace belts, sequins, braids and flowers.
In another nod to the world of dance, the pieces in the show were also worn over white ballet leotards and tights.
“For me, dance evokes all these stories and emotions that are close to my heart, and that I take such pleasure in handing down and recounting,” said Viard. The result is a passionate, heartfelt examination of Chanel’s past while unbuttoning the house’s steps into the future.
