Alexander McQueen’s Autumn Winter 2025 collection, presented in Paris on the 8th of March, reimagines dandyism through a modern lens.
Under the creative direction of Seán McGirr, the collection explores themes of identity, idealism, and gender, drawing inspiration from historical figures such as Oscar Wilde, Vesta Tilley, and Romaine Brooks.
The collection is set against a vision of London at night, merging Victorian Gothic influences with contemporary craftsmanship. The garments feature fluid silks, textured lace, and intricate floral details, juxtaposed with gold bullion-embroidered cloaks and crystalline masks. Sculpted hats by Philip Treacy add an angular, obscuring element to the aesthetic.
Sharp tailoring is central, with lean silhouettes and exaggerated Victorian shoulders. Rich fabrications include double-faced wool cashmere, cavalry twill, silk georgette, and lace in a palette ranging from black and crimson to fuchsia and iced lilac. Embellishments such as naturalistic motifs in glass stones and bullion embroidery enhance the opulence.
Accessories include structured leather bags, Victorian-inspired jewellery, and elongated boots. The show space, designed by Tom Scutt, featured a mirrored, askew portal inspired by The Picture of Dorian Gray, with an ambient soundtrack blending 19th-century strings and contemporary electronic compositions.
McQueen’s latest collection redefines dandyism with a balance of tradition and transgression.
