For her Autumn/Winter 2022 womenswear collection for Alexander McQueen Creative Director, Sarah Burton paid homage to New York, a city that last hosted the British fashion house for its Fall show back in 1999.
McQueen has for the last two seasons avoided the traditional show calendar, opting to put on their own performance in a city of choice and bring together the global fashion community. After last season’s show in London, the brand travelled specifically to Brooklyn to present a collection that fused elements of the brand’s heritage with the street style of the Big Apple.
“I am so happy to be back in New York, a city that has always been close to our hearts.” Wrote Burton in the show notes. The designer who rarely speaks in public offered her personal thoughts and experience of this collection in written form. “This collection is inspired by that idea of community, and specifically by mycelium, by the reality of nature as a community that is far, far older than we are.” She wrote.
Mycelium is a rather unusual root-like structure of a fungus consisting of a mass of branching, thread-like hyphae. With its unique underground structure, it forms a unique network that connects objects, buildings, plants, animals and human beings together and is vital to our ecosystem. This vital yet largely unknown concept reflects Burton’s message of connection and interlinking elements.
“We exist as single, individual entities on one level, but we are far more powerful connected to each other, to our families, to our friends, to our community. Given everything that has happened over the past two years, that seems more important than ever. As a community we are infinitely more able to restore, reinvent, rejuvenate – heal.” She explained.
The collection embodied this sense of interlinking elements through feminine styles juxtaposed with masculine shapes and cuts. Sharp tailored suits in bold colours had a relaxed fit. Double-breasted jackets, with silver metal bar detailing, were paired with elongated cigarette trousers or slashed pencil skirts.
Dresses were too deconstructed with many layers and asymmetric draping. Silhouettes were true to the brand’s DNA with bustier cuts, nipped in waits and flattering necklines. This was juxtaposed with bandage dresses in black compact knit that were a surprising yet interesting addition to the flow of the collection.
It was through the collection’s prints that we saw the influence of mycelium in a more literal way reflecting the patterns and intricate lines of this natural element with the “spore print” in psychedelic colours.
And there was a great return to leather through dresses biker jackets and pencil skirts all featuring multiple zip detailing.
Ruffle necklines and tulle detailing that is synonymous to the brand came on evening wear which again was deconstructed and featured beading and embellishment, offering a touch of sparkle.
In accessories, we saw new shapes and sizes. The Swing bag featured an articulated central handle and shoulder strap in black patent leather and with a bright red mushroom spore print. While the Chain Swing bag with an articulated central handle and decorative silver metal chain in black patent leather and black leather with silver studs. Bags came in bold and bright tones much like the ready to wear and added an element of fun to each look. A highlight was the Curve Pouch in bright orange patent leather and with psychedelic mushroom and sequin mycelium embroidery.
In shoes, we saw classic Punk Chelsea biker boots as well as Harness pumps in black leather, featuring psychedelic mushroom and sequin mycelium embroidery.
With the underlying tone of connection on more levels than one, Burton continues to connect the brand’s heritage with the modern woman of today.
