The Chanel 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection was revealed in the north of England today.
The show, which was held in Manchester evoked a love story that has existed between Chanel and Great Britain that has lasted for over a century.
The show celebrated British culture, city life in Manchester and of course – Chanel’s iconic house codes.
Tweed was integral to the collection. As Virginie Viard explained in the show notes: “ I thought a lot about Gabrielle Chanel but I didn’t want to recreate Coco’s look when she was wearing the Duke of Westminster’s jackets. I took my cue from the Coco who brought colour to her tweeds. I added a vibrant, pop spirit to them.”
Manchester’s reputation for being a hub for music culture also played big in the show. “For me, Manchester is the city of music, explained Viard. It incites to creation.”
The show took place in Thomas Street, in the North of the city, at dusk, hence the importance being heeded to colour.
The collection is all about feelings. Suits, bags and strings of pearls align around a shimmering, pop palette. Salmon pink, pumpkin, apple green, mustard, sky blue, red and rust light up a horizon that is all at once feminine and singular. Instead of a rock look, the Artistic Director focused on the poetry of emotions with a dash of the sixties.
According to the house, Viard wanted this 2023/24 Métiers d’art collection faithful to the House codes. In addition to each of the codes that make it so modern – the chains at the bottom of the jackets, the contrasting inner fabrics, and the multiple topstitched panels allowing for great freedom of movement – the collection is a celebration of Gabrielle Chanel’s own art of tailoring. Even the tops of the skirts are in the same fabric as the inside of the jackets and coats, offering a continuity of line to the gaze.
In the collection there are also ideas which centre upon Great Britain too. Wraparound skirts, miniskirts with godets, Bermuda shorts, shirts, coat-dresses all featured in tweed, knitwear in Shetland and cashmere. Cuts are fitted, and skirt waists are worn slightly low on the hips.
Pleats, feathers and embroidery work along with hats and jewelled buttons crafted by the Métiers d’art resident at le19M enhance the allure of this collection. Teapots, vinyl records and cute flowers all add fun touches. The collection dares a certain candour with black Mary-Jane shoes. Jeans, leather, and knitwear including babydoll nighties and strapless dresses complete the ensemble, investing domains as varied as football, Manchester’s music scene or the English countryside.