Since launching a made-to-measure service in her living room in 2007, London-based Emilia Wickstead has become synonymous with couture-precision tailoring, and unapologetically feminine colour palettes. Soft femininity, impeccable tailoring and polished elegance are her signatures, and have garnered Emilia a burgeoning list of clients, from first ladies to supermodels, Hollywood actresses to Royalty, including The Duchess of Cambridge, Samantha Cameron, Alexa Chung, and Poppy Delevingne.
While trends inspire many designers, Wickstead is more focused on a by-gone era of glamour, and that sense of occasion requiring you to look your best, but with an added dose of modern ease and comfort. In a palette of hues, ranging from buttercup yellow and duck-egg blue, to pistachio and candy-floss pink, her elegant designs with a side helping of fun, manage to never veer into the sickly side of saccharine, thanks to some exquisite tailoring and sophisticated style.
Born in New Zealand and raised in Milan, Emilia hasn’t taken the typical London-designer route to the runway. Growing up she learnt her work ethic from her mother, Angela Wickstead, who ran a successful bespoke dressmaking service in Auckland. She then cut her teeth at the prestigious Central St Martins school of Art, spending her formative years in Milan and New York working at Giorgio Armani, Proenza Schouler and Narciso Rodriguez. Then, with the financial help of her boyfriend, now husband and father to their 2 children, she opened her business at the age of 24, inviting friends and family to buy made-to-measure pieces from the sitting room in her West London flat. From there a foundation of private clients were built as she made her name as a made-to-measure atelier, before becoming one of London Fashion Week’s darlings when expanding her repertoire to include ready-to-wear collections.
The New Zealander has been broadening her range of late, and her new collection goes beyond cocktail hour to encompass the casual polish of a sophisticated off-duty wardrobe. She introduced jeans to her line this season, and the high-waisted, raw denim pants had a pristine, tailored finish that worked well in the lineup of floor-sweeping gowns. Loosening up the demure look of her brand in general with diaphanous silks, there was a sense of lightness to the collection, yet the shimmering sequined silver dress was a standout and stole the show.
Here we learn the secrets to the New Zealand born designer’s success, what makes the perfect dress, and how to accessorise to create her design aesthetic, classic with a twist.
Is fashion in your genes? Did you always dream of going into fashion and becoming a designer?
Growing up, my mother had a career as a fashion designer in Milan, and from a young age I would watch my mother in the studio, which taught me so much about fashion and dressmaking. My mother and grandmother were both exceptionally glamorous and strong women who encouraged me to follow my heart and pursue my dream of becoming a fashion designer. Living in Milan at the age of 14 was also hugely inspiring, I was enthralled by the designer stores and beautifully dressed women.
Who was your style heroine growing up?
My grandmother.
How did you start your business?
I started making bespoke dresses out of my apartment for some of London’s most fabulous women. My husband would arrive home and I would be in a fitting in the middle of our living room! It was a very organic, humble way to start the business, and I’m proud of how hard I worked to make it happen.
Do you feel this unconventional approach put you in good stead with a business made from solid foundations and a loyal customer base?
Absolutely. Emilia Wickstead would not exist without the wonderful, loyal customers who have supported me from the beginning and who continue to do so, 9 years later.
As your brand grows, does the business side always remain in the forefront of your mind?
As the business has grown I have always first and foremost tried to remain true to myself and my designs. As we go forward and grow I am thinking about everything from a business perspective as well as from a design perspective and trying to create the perfect balance, which isn’t always easy.
How do you find the pressure to constantly produce new collections?
I love it! It has definitely been an adjustment to go from designing two collections a year to designing four, as I am now designing pre-collections as well as runway. To constantly get the opportunity to be creative and evolve from a design perspective is a dream.
I’m also aware that my customer is so diverse and comes to me for a whole range of dressing options, from day to evening. For AW17 for example, I launched jeans for the first time. They are dark denim and sit high on the waist, so can be dressed up and down. I recognise that the Emilia Wickstead woman is evolving along with my designs, and needs modern wardrobe staples that are still elegant and refined. It’s exciting to see my offering develop and grow.
I also recently launched a bridal capsule collection. Bridal is something I’m hugely passionate about, I designed my own wedding dress which was such a special moment, so I wanted to produce a timeless, statement capsule collection that my customers would love.
Is your heart more with the made to measure designs in the atelier, rather than RTW?
My heart is equally with both of them. I love designing for a specific client and really knowing that what I am creating for them is going to be exactly what they want, but I also love creating RTW and seeing how other women interpret and wear my designs. They are two completely different ways of looking at fashion and I couldn’t manage without either.
How would you sum up your brand DNA?
Emilia Wickstead is all about timeless yet contemporary dressing which is always elegant, but often subtly playful and nuanced in its approach.
Where do you find your inspiration?
I find inspiration everywhere. Especially in old films and music, but also in architecture, nature, and books. Every runway collection is different and every collection has been inspired by a mixture of different things that have really interested and fascinated me. My SS17 collection was inspired by the architect Frank Lloyd Wright and Japanese ‘Love Hotels’, and then my AW17 collection was inspired by traditional Russian dress.
Can you tell us about your new AW17 collection, it clearly goes beyond your cocktail looks, encompassing relaxed off duty separates?
This collection for me really was all about ‘My Girl.’ I wanted it to be a complement to a feminine personality, a testament to the Emilia Wickstead world. It is about the awareness of my woman and her continuous desire for any and every occasion to dress up. The collection is full of transparencies and puff details, but also has architectural lines that are modern and relevant. It was also the first time I have ever designed jeans and I wanted to make sure that I was delivering my insistence on quality, something fun and directional, yet unexpected.
Is this a direction that you are looking to take your label in?
I am constantly thinking about what I can do on a bigger scale and how I can bring fresh purpose to my designs, but it was also a very natural process for me to start adding more separates as my collections grow. I am always thinking about my woman and about staying true to the Emilia Wickstead aesthetic, whilst looking to create collections that are also unexpected and exciting.
What is your standout piece from the collection?
For me it has to be the sequin Roma Dress, I love the structure and the open back, Its energetic yet romantic.
What are the roots of your fascination with old-world couture?
I love the glamour of the old days. It was just such a fabulous time. I am a constant dreamer and the idea of escaping to a past time where everything seems so grand and magnificent has always made me sweetly nostalgic.
Who is the Emilia Wickstead woman, and what characteristics does she embody?
The Emilia Wickstead woman is feminine, strong, elegant, and effortlessly modern. The women I dress are so diverse, she may be a successful businesswoman who wants to wear something bespoke, or her younger daughter who is looking for a fashion forward piece, but all are tied together by their elegance, femininity, and powerful confidence.
Do you feel that being a woman at the helm of a brand for women allows you to have the best insight into your customer needs?
I feel that what has always given me insight is really understanding my customer. I understand their lives, what they are doing, where they are going, and how they want to feel in their clothes once they have arrived. Building that relationship is what gives me the most insight.
Is there a particular age group who buys your clothes?
I’m grateful and proud that women of all ages buy my clothes. I recently made a dress for my 3-year-old daughter and she looked just as great in it as did the actress who wore it to the Oscars!
How do you create something that is timeless yet fashion forward?
When creating a garment, I often think whether it is a piece I would love to wear, but also a piece that my grandmother would have thought was a strong design.
How would you describe your personal style?
I am very classic in the way that I dress. My uniform is a great pair of trousers or jeans, a delicate turtle neck and a red lip to pull everything together.
Do you tend to dress up all the time?
I often wear very feminine dresses, but like to pare them back with an elegant flat shoe and a simple ponytail. I think the addition of a red lip and neat hairstyle, a ponytail or a beautiful braid, can make any outfit look dressed up and glamourous.
What are your top wardrobe must haves?
A turtle neck, wonderfully cut trousers, a timeless dress, and the perfect red lipstick. When it comes to accessorising, I love to wear a fabulous pair of shoes. Either an elegant flat or a pair of heels, and my personal preference is a pointed toe with a thin ankle strap.
Can you share with us the most cherished item in your wardrobe?
My ring that was given to me by my grandmother. It will forever be a part of my heart.
What has been your greatest achievement?
My family.
What is the best piece of advice you have been given?
‘You can do it.’
