Emporio Armani has presented its Spring/Summer 2027 men’s and women’s collection, titled “Traces of Time”, with time explored through its effects on materials, colour and form.
Designed by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco and presented together once again, the collection examines how surfaces can be altered and transformed without simply appearing aged.
The collection approaches time as a material process, with treatments that change the appearance and texture of fabrics. Salt crystals are used both as a treatment and as embroidery, referencing the substance’s contrasting ability to preserve and corrode, as well as decorate and consume. Acid washes and cold dyeing techniques create irregular colour effects, while linen uses trompe-l’œil effects to reproduce the surfaces of worn garments.
Elsewhere, seersucker is hollowed and crumpled, while velvet is treated with lasers to create a mottled appearance. Organza introduces layers of transparency and reflection, contributing to a collection in which each material carries a visible trace of its treatment.
Lightness is central to both wardrobes. Linen, lightweight silks, shirting fabrics, viscose and jersey are used to create fluid forms, while retaining a sense of structure. Jackets lose some of their traditional construction or are interrupted by panels and knots, while trousers take on an airy quality. Knitwear draws on the intimacy of underwear, further blurring the boundaries between traditionally formal and informal dressing.
The collection continues Emporio Armani’s approach to a wardrobe in motion, where masculine and feminine codes, as well as formal and informal elements, coexist. Tailoring is combined with transparency, while jackets are paired with small waistcoats. Wide trousers and pared-back tops move between the menswear and womenswear wardrobes, reinforcing the interchange between the two.
Touches of lurex and aquatic surfaces provide contrast to the more tactile and opaque materials. The colour palette develops through irregular neutrals before culminating in black, reflecting the collection’s emphasis on surfaces marked and transformed over time.
The looks are completed with oversized bags, rope or fabric slippers and, in some cases, small headpieces. Together, the garments and accessories present a collection centred on the interaction between material, movement and the effects of time.
