Haider Ackermann’s Berluti FW18 collection is an easy-going representation of a self-assured modern man.
“In a world that is louder than ever, I like the idea of a quiet man. Serene, cool, collected, yet standing on his own two feet.”
The collection is packed with timeless wardrobe staples like nylon jackets that have been handcrafted from a single piece of fabric along with leather coats with invisible seams creating a sleek look. Despite their classic appearance, Ackermann adds touches of personality through flashes of colour and detail in the linings, an unexpected wink to eccentricity. Echoing Berluti’s unmistakable elegance, leather trench coat is lined in grey cashmere, while an understated reversible black cashmere coat reveals ivory silk pinstripes on the inside.
Japanese brushed cashmere creates unusually soft sweaters, and hand-cut velvet gives an artisanal touch to trousers and suits. Tailoring is structured yet lighter than ever, foregoing shoulder pads for a relaxed fit.
“As time goes by, the wearer’s personality becomes embedded in the clothes so that they become intimate and filled with emotion,” says desingner.
Accessories include weekender bags and backpacks, each assembled from two pieces of calf leather. A new shoe, the Alessandro 0 Cut, is an entirely seamless exercise in bootmaking know-how and brings attitude to the season’s silhouette with a slightly elevated heel. Ankle boots in Venezia leather and in crocodile are an evolution from last season’s cowboy boots and feature a decorative seam that catches the eye.
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