As the menswear shows unfold in Paris for Spring 2020, we bring you the highlights you need to see from the likes of Dior Homme, Valentino, Hermès and more.
See the best of menswear for Paris Men's Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2020
For their last collection as Co-Creative Directors for the French fashion house, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon once again took inspiration from the waters – in particular, the female free divers or the so-called ‘Last Mermaids’ of Japan. Aquas, orchids and harbour grey were utilised over sea-life prints and scuba sandals.
Taking to the Dôme de Paris for the third time since his stint at Celine began, Hedi Slimane presented a menswear collection for Spring 2020 with undeniable Seventies flair and brought new silhouettes to his male fashion line. Expect butterfly collars, sequin disco-esque jackets, wide leg trousers and boxy brown leather jackets.
As Creative Director Kim Jones teamed up with artist Daniel Arsham to create his spring look for the year ahead, they reworked the classic Dior suit with an architectural edge. Referencing the designer’s work, the Dior Homme set (created by Arsham) mimicked an archaeological site featuring crumbling sculptures against a pink sand setting – and the ‘Future Relics’ collection followed.
When Creative Director Olivier Rousteing took to Paris to present his show, he decided to celebrate the summer solstice by creating, essentially, a party for attendees. As Darren Criss provided his rendition of Prince’s Kiss, models strutted the runway donning luxe silks, metallic armour, head to toe white, and pastel pink and purple tees. The feel was fun and futuristic.
Valentino’s Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli created a menswear collection for Spring 2020 that mixed picturesque prints and earthy tones with an other-worldly vibrancy, taking inspiration from English artist Roger Dean. Models embodied Dean’s opposing themes of both the natural and the fantastical, mixing earthy tones of tawny brown and olive green with vibrant tones of orchid purple over sun bright orange.
For SS20, Hermès’s longstanding Men’s Artistic Director expanded silhouettes for a nonchalant take on formalwear – shirts were oversized and untucked, cardigans were lazily buttoned and layers were thrown together to expand this shape further. Elsewhere, trouser legs expanded out too, refusing to taper and satisfy out ‘balancing out’ urges. Shades of candyfloss pink and mint green brought colour to basics, and neck scarfs were the defining accessory.