Our edit of the most memorable collections from the opening day of the Autumn/Winter 2026–27 couture shows.
Dior
Jonathan Anderson made a confident couture debut for Dior with an Autumn/Winter 2026–27 collection that celebrated artistry, craftsmanship and sculptural form. Drawing inspiration from the work of American artist Lynda Benglis, Anderson transformed couture into wearable sculpture through fluid draping, intricate pleating and masterful construction.
The collection balanced softness with structure, as shimmering sheer gowns, cocooning silhouettes and reimagined versions of Dior’s iconic Bar jacket showcased a fresh interpretation of the house’s enduring codes. Elegant yet experimental, the collection marked the beginning of an exciting new chapter for Dior, with Anderson demonstrating a thoughtful vision that honours the maison’s heritage while confidently shaping its future.
Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry delivered one of Haute Couture Week’s most captivating collections with Schiaparelli’s presentation, The Call of the Void. Inspired by the idea of embracing uncertainty, the collection challenged convention by pairing the precision of haute couture with unexpected materials including latex, silicone and sculpted paint.
Surreal silhouettes and otherworldly forms paid homage to Elsa Schiaparelli’s fearless imagination, blurring the boundaries between fashion, art and fantasy. Every look balanced technical mastery with bold experimentation, proving that couture can be both meticulously crafted and endlessly inventive. Visionary and unapologetically theatrical, Roseberry continues to redefine Schiaparelli for a new generation while remaining true to the house’s extraordinary Surrealist spirit.
Tamara Ralph
Tamara Ralph’s Fall/Winter 2026–27 Haute Couture collection was a luminous celebration of modern glamour, exceptional craftsmanship and timeless femininity. Presented in Paris, the collection unfolded in a palette of sunrise bronze, champagne gold, moonlit ivory and midnight noir, with crystal mesh, liquid silks and sculpted lace creating an elegant interplay of light and texture.
Intricate metallic embroidery and diamond-inspired embellishments shimmered across fluid silhouettes, while corseted waists and jewel-encrusted headpieces added architectural precision. Echoes of 1930s evening glamour ran throughout, reimagined through a contemporary lens with bold proportions and exquisite detailing. Ethereal yet powerful, Ralph once again demonstrated her remarkable ability to balance romance with technical mastery, reinforcing her growing position as one of couture’s most compelling voices.
Rahul Mishra
Rahul Mishra’s latest Haute Couture collection, Devi, was a poetic exploration of femininity, craftsmanship and India’s rich artistic heritage. Inspired by the ancient stone sculptures found in temples across the Indian subcontinent, the collection reimagined the eternal muse through exquisitely hand-embroidered couture that blurred the lines between fashion and sculpture.
Rather than carving away, Mishra built each garment through layers of intricate zardozi, dabka, crystals and beadwork, creating surfaces that appeared hewn from sandstone and marble. Sculptural headpieces, inspired by ceremonial crowns, completed the looks, while exceptional high jewellery designed with Tanishq extended the narrative. Ethereal yet architectural, Devi was a masterclass in storytelling, celebrating centuries of artisanal tradition through a thoroughly contemporary couture lens.
Iris Van Herpen
Iris van Herpen once again dissolved the boundaries between science, art and couture. Titled Sonic Starquakes, the collection drew inspiration from the vibrations of stars, plasma and cosmic geometry, transforming invisible forces into extraordinary wearable creations. Laser-cut velvets, transparent layers and intricate embroidery created fluid silhouettes that appeared to ripple with movement, while a celestial palette of midnight black, sapphire, moonstone green and storm-lit silver evoked the vastness of the universe.
Influenced by Victorian inventor Margaret Watts Hughes’ experiments visualising sound, Van Herpen explored the connection between energy, matter and the human body. The result was a mesmerising collection that felt less like fashion and more like a living sculpture, reaffirming her position as couture’s most visionary innovator.
Georges Hobeika
Georges Hobeika’s Fall/Winter 2026–27 Haute Couture collection, The Visitor, offered a poetic meditation on beauty, nature and the fleeting moments that shape our lives. Inspired by James McCrae’s Instructions Before Visiting Earth, the collection embraced lightness and movement through ethereal silhouettes, delicate draping and exquisitely detailed embroidery.
Soft layers, shimmering embellishments and impeccable craftsmanship reflected the house’s enduring commitment to elegance, while each look captured a quiet sense of wonder and optimism. Romantic yet contemporary, The Visitor celebrated the beauty of experiencing the world with fresh eyes, reminding us that couture has the power to tell deeply emotional stories through extraordinary artistry and meticulous handcraft.
