transports the brand to the hills of Bel Air, where the setting sun becomes part of the narrative. Staged within a pavilion bathed in pale yellow neon light, the presentation unfolded against the cinematic backdrop of Los Angeles, blurring the boundaries between craftsmanship and expression.
The collection explores the concept of femininity through motion. Drawing inspiration from the world of dance, Vanhée examines the parallels between the disciplined gestures of the dancer and the skilled hands of the artisan. Both rely on repetition, precision and years of refinement, creating a shared language that informs every silhouette. The result is a collection that feels simultaneously controlled and liberated, balancing structure with fluidity in a way that is distinctly Hermès.
This season marks a notable evolution in the house’s approach to dressmaking. While Hermès is celebrated for its mastery of leather and silk, Vanhée places the dress firmly at the centre of the collection. Dresses emerge as expressions of movement and character, designed to accompany the body rather than restrict it.
The influence of ballet is evident throughout. Satin dresses in rich jewel tones draw inspiration from the ballet slipper, translated into elegant eveningwear. Fine piping traces the contours of the body, while grosgrain ribbons fasten and loosen with ease. Gathered bustiers subtly reference the softened pointe shoe, introducing an architectural quality without sacrificing softness.
Knitwear also plays a significant role. Cache-cœur sweaters wrap around the torso like a dancer preparing for rehearsal, offering both warmth and structure. Elsewhere, smocked knit jumpsuits with flared legs and shimmering embroidery reinterpret traditional warm-up attire through a luxury lens, bringing athleticism and sophistication into harmony.
As the narrative progresses, the dancer leaves the studio behind. Silk velvet foulard dresses move with effortless sensuality, layered beneath biker jackets and polished leather coats that introduce a sense of freedom and adventure. The contrast between softness and strength becomes a recurring theme, reflecting a woman in constant motion, driven by instinct rather than by destination.
One of the collection’s most striking elements is the reinterpretation of the iconic Soleil de Soie Tattoo carré. Transformed into garments through smocking, gathering and draping, the silk motif takes on sculptural dimension, appearing almost suspended in motion before cascading into soft folds.
As night falls, embroidered gowns shimmer against black satin and deep velvet, evoking a star-filled sky stretched across the Pacific horizon. Yet despite the theatrical finale, Vanhée resists offering a definitive conclusion. Instead, Silhouettes on the Horizon celebrates continuity, transformation and movement itself. It is a collection that embraces evolution rather than resolution, charting an open path forward for the Hermès woman: confident, expressive and forever in motion.
