Daniel Roseberry continued to redefine the language of haute couture with Schiaparelli’s Fall/Winter 2026-2027 collection, The Call of the Void, a theatrical presentation that celebrated uncertainty, experimentation and the limitless power of imagination.
Presented during Paris Haute Couture Week, the collection was inspired by Roseberry’s own creative journey. After attempting to recreate the success of last season’s acclaimed collection, the designer realised that true creativity could only emerge by abandoning formulas and embracing the unknown. As he explained in his show notes: “Only when I surrendered to the void did I truly start to enjoy making this collection.”
Paying tribute to Elsa Schiaparelli’s enduring Surrealist vision, the collection blurred the boundaries between fashion, art and fantasy. Traditional couture craftsmanship was paired with unconventional materials including latex, silicone and sculpted sheets of baked paint, challenging long-held ideas of luxury and beauty. As Roseberry wrote, the collection questioned: “whether beauty resides in the material itself – or in the imagination capable of reinventing it.”
The house’s signature codes were reimagined through extraordinary craftsmanship. Hyper-realistic silicone bustiers, dresses adorned with sculptural crinoline tubes, and jackets embellished with real flowers, fish scales and kinetic latex tentacles demonstrated both technical precision and fearless creativity. Accessories continued the narrative with alien-inspired footwear, spiked handbags and jewellery shaped like octopus tentacles and sea anemones.
A vibrant palette inspired by marine life and botanical landscapes, from lobster pink and saffron to pale mint and Schiaparelli’s iconic gold, reinforced the collection’s dreamlike mood.
While the materials were unexpected, Roseberry insisted that couture’s greatest luxury remains the extraordinary artisans who bring each vision to life. “Their expertise is what gives us the freedom to venture into the unknown in the first place,” he said. “They remind me that couture’s greatest luxury isn’t its materiality, but the hands that make it.”
With this collection, the Maison proved that the future of haute couture lies not in certainty, but in the courage to embrace the unknown. As Roseberry concluded: “The moments when certainty disappears are often the moments when something genuinely new becomes possible.”
