Karl Lagerfeld received a standing ovation at the 2018 Métiers d’Art Paris-Hamburg Show. The exquisite show is dedicated to the small specialist ateliers that Chanel owns and works with on each collection. Their crafts and skills are preserved by the fashion house.
The 87-look collection was presented in the Elbphilharmonie, the stunning concert hall in the designer’s home town of Hamburg. The models dressed in sailor caps, walked the runway to a live orchestra conducted by British cellist Oliver Coates. Paying homage to the city’s sailors, the ideal location mirrored that of a large ship.
The first looks featured naval inspired all-blue cable knit looks complete with sailor hats, over-the-knee woolen socks and booties. Then came the signature tweed suits which were glistening with metallic threads and finished with sequins and paired with tweed caps and quilted clutch bags. Chiffon skirts and wide-leg denim pants were layered with tweed jackets and belted at the waist to complete the day wear looks.
Evening wear came in the form of delicately tailored tuxedos juxtaposed with tulle skirts and feather hem dresses with metallic accents. Hemlines varied. Some were long and layered while others were high above the knee.
The colour palette although somber had the odd flash of colour and sparkle, while sailor motifs, and rows of buttons added a playful edge to the looks.
Here, we present an exclusive insight into detailing the savoir faire behind the creation of the look 83. A dress in organza, embellished with feathers and embroidered with braid.
For this particular look braids embroidered by needle are made using wisps of tweed, 310 rhodoid elements, 1,430 metallic tubes and 685 stones, requiring hours of work at the MONTEX ateliers. These embroidered braids will embellish the collar, the pockets and the hem of the dress as well as the cap.
The organza of the dress is covered with white feathers which are then hand painted with wide horizontal blue stripes in the spirit of a “sailor’s top”, requiring 76 hours of work in the Lemarié ateliers.
The pieces worked on by the MONTEX and Lemarié ateliers are sent to the Chanel ready-to-wear ateliers so the seamstresses can start assembling the dress.
The outfit is ready for the final fitting in Hamburg in the presence of Karl Lagerfeld.
The outfit is accessorised with a wool cap made by Maison Michel and embroidered by MONTEX, a clutch bag as well as two-tone pumps made by Massaro. It is subject to the approval of Karl Lagerfeld during the final fitting the day before the show.
Backstage at the Métiers d’art 2017/18 Paris-Hamburg show.
The Métiers d’art 2017/18 Paris Hamburg shoe look No. 83.