A Brief History Of Bvlgari’s Iconic Serpenti Collection

Lindsay Judge   |   16-10-2024

For more than 75 years, Bvlgaris Serpenti collection has been the embodiment of the brands ethos of power, seduction and transformation, captivating the world with its serpentine curves and timeless allure.

What began as a bold venture into the realm of avant-garde design has become one of the most iconic symbols in luxury jewellery history, a striking representation of Bvlgaris audacious spirit.

When the serpent began its life with the original Serpenti collection in 1948, it debuted with bracelet watches that coiled around the wrist, mimicking the sinuous grace of a snake in movement. The early versions of the Serpenti Tubogas watch featured a flexible band made using the Tubogas technique—a method derived from ancient Roman traditions, where gold or steel bands were coiled tightly around a core.

This technique allowed the bracelet to remain flexible, making it as comfortable as it was striking. The first iterations of the Serpenti were sleek and understated, but they set the stage for the bold, bejewelled iterations to follow.

The 1950s and 1960s marked a period of transformation for Bvlgaris Serpenti, with the collection beginning to reflect the glamour and exuberance of its time. One of the most iconic wearers of Serpenti was Elizabeth Taylor, who famously donned a Serpenti bracelet-watch while on the set of Cleopatra in 1962. This moment cemented Serpentis place not only in pop culture but in fashion history, transforming it from a piece of jewellery into a symbol of empowered femininity and enduring beauty.

By the 1970s, the Serpenti collection evolved further, incorporating vibrant enamels and precious gemstones, from emeralds and rubies to diamonds. The serpent became more than just a coiled form; it was now a hypnotic, bejewelled masterpiece that could adorn the wrist, neck, or finger.

While Bvlgaris Serpenti has maintained its symbolic and aesthetic heritage, the house has never shied away from pushing creative boundaries. Over the decades, the design has been reinterpreted in a variety of forms—cuffs, necklaces, earrings, and rings—all while maintaining its distinct serpent motif. The Serpenti Viper, a more contemporary collection, introduced sleek, modular designs, showcasing the houses ability to evolve with changing fashion trends while keeping its core DNA intact.

In the 2010s, Bvlgari introduced Serpenti High Jewellery pieces, adding intricate diamond settings and playing with scales and movements. These lavish pieces are hand-crafted to embody the fluidity and grace of a snake in motion, with exquisite attention to detail that speaks to Bvlgari’s expertise in fine craftsmanship.

Through its 75-year journey, Serpenti has come to embody transformation—a natural fit for a motif so deeply rooted in mythology. Each Bvlgari Serpenti creation tells a story of reinvention, power, and resilience. The serpent, a symbol of eternity and cyclical renewal, mirrors the journey of the modern woman, making it a favourite among those who seek to embrace both elegance and inner strength.

The Serpenti has also come to symbolize the house of Bvlgari itself, reflecting the brands journey from a small Roman jeweller to a global icon of luxury. The designs ability to morph and adapt while staying true to its roots parallels Bvlgaris creative evolution—always forward-looking, but with deep respect for its heritage.

Last year, as Serpenti marked its 75th anniversary, limited-edition collections and one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces which celebrated the legacy of the Serpenti. Exquisite high jewellery collections presented the Serpenti as it had never been seen before, paying tribute to its rich history. Meanwhile, pop-up exhibitions around the world displayed some of the rarest Serpenti pieces and told the story of the evolution of Serpenti through the years with The Serpenti Factory. 

Today, as the brand looks forward to the next 75 years, recent releases have seen the introduction of new materials, such as ceramic and rose gold, while still celebrating the ancient craftsmanship techniques that first brought the Serpenti to life.

The 2024 Serpenti Viper Jewellery collection 

This year, the newest chapter of the Serpenti comes in the form of the Serpenti Viper Jewellery collection. With its signature blend of essential aesthetics, mesmerising suppleness and magnetic flair, Serpenti Viper represents the further evolution of Bulgaris icon of metamorphosis. The collection features five new jewellery creations, illustrating the snakes innate power to evolve and take always new forms.

The five designs feature sleek designs crafted in 18 kt yellow or rose gold and lit by a precious touch of demi pavé diamonds. While offering a new, contemporary appeal, the pieces maintain the collections signature enveloping lines that connect the creation with the wearer in a symbiotic embrace.

The new single wrapping ring, available in 18 kt rose and yellow gold, radiates confidence and charm with diamond accents enlivening the head and the tail of the snakes abstracted body. The same captivating curves and modern lines define the earrings set in 18 kt rose or yellow gold, decorated with diamond demi pavé touches. The enchanting new pendant necklace also intertwines iconic aesthetics and modern flair. With a stylised 18 kt yellow gold snake coiling around a gold chain and enhanced by a diamond pavé. 

Completing the new set is an already beloved icon of the collection, the Serpenti Viper single coil bangle bracelet in 18 kt yellow gold with demi pavé diamonds, which invites the wear to experiment with different and ever-evolving styling options. The contemporary appeal of yellow gold is brought to shine through its empowering embrace that wraps the wrist with a second-skin effect.

To be worn as stand-alone pieces or in an irresistible mix and match, the new creations perfectly incarnate Serpentis versatile and eternally contemporary spirit.  

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