The 2024 edition of Watches & Wonders in Geneva set new records and welcomed its highest number of visitors so far. With a sense of optimism, this year’s edition looked to the future of the industry and the new heights it could reach. The event’s overall success was unified by a common drive to share excellence and savoir-faire.
The event welcomed over 49,000 unique visitors throughout the week, including 5,700 retailers and 1,500 journalists who came to discover the new introductions from 54 watchmaking brands exhibiting across two levels. A programme of activities including presentations, guided tours, workshops and more, were fully booked by guests before the first day of the event. Business also reached new heights, with over 10,000 retailer appointments (+25% vs. 2023) 1,800 Touch & Feel press sessions, and a significant increase in end-clients placing orders.
But beyond the numbers, it was the spirit of Watches and Wonders Geneva that resonated with audiences. Throughout the week, the watchmaking industry demonstrated its diversity, as well as its unity around its cardinal values: innovation, craftsmanship, excellence and sharing. Interest in the event amongst a younger generation continues to grow, with numerous schools participating and strong attendance by students. Of the 19,000 tickets (vs. 12,000 in 2023), once again, 25% were sold to under-25s, with an average age of 35, identical to 2023.
Watches and Wonders Geneva has already set the trends for the year, beginning with a return to more classic and unisex proportions, followed by the presence of bold colours and the use of interchangeable bracelets. Grand complications continue to command prominence, while the use of métiers d’art exemplifies the intersection of watchmaking engineering and decorative art.
Chopard
Chopard debuted a number of exciting novelties for men and women at this year’s event. The IMPERIALE is an ode to the grand hours of imperial history with two new 36mm timepieces in diamond-set ethical 18-carat rose or white gold. Both watches feature mother-of-pearl and enamel marquetry dials. These two new models highlight the beauty of the Maison’s craftsmanship and highlight skilled artisans, from watchmakers to gemsetters, from enamellists to mother-of-pearl artists, all striving to create exceptional timepieces.
The Happy Sport collection also expands this year. Available in a Lucent Steel™ case with 30 or 36 mm diameters with subtle touches of ethical rose gold, the Happy Sport is now adorned with an all-black look enhancing its glamorous charm and its sporty-chic spirit.
The L’Heure du Diamant collection gets three new timepieces featuring an in-house mechanical movement. The three new models consist of a design featuring an octagonal case – a first in the collection – adorned with crown setting; a supple gold bracelet inspired by a historical model; along with refined dials in mother-of-pearl or malachite.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre reinterprets the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar, featuring a subtly modernised case and dial design and a significantly increased power reserve. Four variations are offered, including a new model with a gradient midnight blue sunray dial. The watch’s movement, the Calibre 868, was fully developed and assembled in-house and features an extra-long power reserve of 70 hours. While the size of the case remains the same as the original Master Ultra Thin Perpetual calendar, its design has been subtly modernised.
The Duometre Quantieme Luaire also gets a new addition this year with the first Duometre in steel, featuring a new case design and a deep blue dial distinguished by multiple decorative finishes.
Additionally, the new Duometre Heliotourbillon Perpetual pushes the boundaries of inventiveness further than ever. The new Calibre 388 features an entirely new tourbillon construction: one that spins on three axes to create a ‘spinning top’ effect. Beating at a frequency of 4Hz (28,800 vph) to further enhance chronometry, Calibre 388 also incorporates a perpetual calendar with a grande date indication.
Cartier
Cartier’s new launches include the Privé Tortue collection, a remake of the brand’s 1912 timepiece. Resembling the curved shell of a tortoise (the inspiration for the name), the 2024 ortue has been refined, with a slimmer profile and lugs that stretch along the strap. It’s being offered in three hours and minutes models and two monopusher chronograph versions.
The brand has also revealed new additions to its Santos de Cartier line with a new sportier collection. With four new timepieces in large and medium sizes, the new watches feature steel cases with a finely graduated brown dial, with a vibrant sunray brush finish, offered on a steel bracelet with a brown leather strap in the mix as well. Additionally, another timepiece features a yellow and steel gold case with a satin-finish anthracite dial which looks dramatic when paired with the rhodium-finished dial hardware.
Hermès
Three new watches join the Hermès lineup for 2024. The Hermès Cut is designed to celebrate simple shapes through its powerful style. It features a circular dial with sharp angles and crisply drawn lines, creating a watch with a unique identity. The balanced proportions of the satin-brushed and polished case and the gleam of its clean-cut edges accentuate its character. The watch is powered by a Manufacture Hermès H1912 movement. The seamlessly integrated metal bracelet features supple links with a rounded profile and alternating finishes, picking up the case design. In addition, a rubber strap is available in a range of eight colours drawn from the Hermès palette.
The Arceau Duc Attelé combines Haute Horlogerie and equestrian emblems for a grand complication watch that features a triple-axis tourbillon and a minute repeater. This fine expression of horology and craftsmanship highlights the capabilities of the maison as a watchmaker. It features a distinctive 43 mm polished titanium or rose gold case, a sapphire dome, and triple mirror-polished titanium carriage shaped with interlacing double “Hs”, symbolising the union of Émile Hermès and Julie Hollande in 1900. A true craftsmanship accomplishment.
And finally, the Arceau Chorus Stellarum features exquisite miniature painting and engraving showcasing the creativity and expertise of the house. Inspired by the Chorus Stellarum silk scarf designed by Daiske Nomura, two new iterations celebrate the decorative world. characters – dashing skeleton riders astride their noble steeds – are embodied in mobile yellow gold appliques, engraved and painted by hand. Driven by a spring mechanism linked to the 9 o’clock pusher, these gothic vanities swing into action at the flick of a thumb in a smooth “on-demand impulse” animation that sees them prance around a gilded constellation created using the champlevé technique. Like a celestial painting, this new zodiac featuring symbols subtly borrowed from the Émile Hermès collection reveals the equestrian skies in a dazzling canvas of colourful lacquer-coated motifs, enhanced by applied rhodium-plated stars.
Panerai
Panerai presented three new timepieces at Watched & Wonders. The PAM01405 is a new Submersible Tourbillon GMT Luna Rossa Experience Edition that continues the brand’s journey with the America’s Cup which began in 2017. The new edition is limited to only 20 pieces and dedicates one of the highest expressions of watchmaking expertise, the Tourbillon, to pay homage to the team in their quest for the America’s Cup. PAM01405 features a 45mm case, scaling down from previous Submersible Tourbillons, yet maximising wearability without compromising its impressive presence. At its core, the hand-wound P.2015/T mechanical calibre results from three years of dedicated development, with the assembly of the movement and tourbillon cage demanding eight painstaking hours of craftsmanship.
Additionally, the new Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-CeramitechTM represents a strategic alliance of high performance and cutting-edge technology in the shape of a new innovative material, Ti-CeramitechTM, mirroring the ethos of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team at the apex of sailing competition. The 44mm Ti-CeramitechTM case, is inspired by a material and process originally used in high-performance competitive environments. The innovative use of ceramic-coated materials, developed through the high-demand, high-tech sailing world of Luna Rossa, represents an example of how cutting-edge technology and materials science can elevate performance in sport environments. This process, particularly the caramelisation of steel parts to significantly reduce friction, enhanced the efficiency and speed of racing boats and was a source of inspiration for Panerai.
And lastly, the new Submersible GMT Luna Rossa Titanio PAM01507 pays homage to the official America’s Cup races taking place in Barcelona between August and October 2024. PAM01507 will debut as a pioneering watch to feature the new Super-LumiNova® X2 on indices and hour hand, an improved grade that ensures a luminosity 10% higher than its predecessor after 180 minutes in the dark*. The new timepiece features a 42mm case made from Grade 5 titanium, renowned for its remarkable lightness and strength, being 40% lighter and 60% harder than stainless steel. Embodying the innovative spirit of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team, titanium is also one of the materials used to build the Luna Rossa boat, merging resilience with cutting-edge technology, thanks to the continuous innovation by Laboratorio di Idee at the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchâtel. Water resistant up to 50 bar (~500 meters), this watch has been rigorously tested, subjecting it to a pressure up to 25% greater than the guaranteed water resistance value to ensure it meets Panerai’s stringent standards.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin’s Grand Lady Kalla makes returns, continuing the brand’s history of jewellery and pendant watches. A new exclusive piece is embroidered with 7 facets emerald-cut diamonds on the watch; along with diamonds, Akoya and onyx pearls on the pendant. A high-jewellery and versatile timepiece composed of 268 diamonds, for more than 46 carats. These versatile high jewellery pieces can be worn in four different ways.
The Patrimony watch gets three new models featuring a new sunburst antique silver-toned dial, new fresh strap colours, a customisable case back and a diameter trimmed to 39 mm for the manual-winding models. Inspired by watches of the fifties, the Patrimony features the perfect balance between rounded curves and taut lines. With a new diameter, new dial and strap colours, and customisation, the collection continues to be firmly rooted in the modernity of its era with three new models.
For the first time, the Overseas collection watches are highlighted by an intense green dial and sunburst satin-finished centre and velvet-finished flange. The watches come in 42 and 35mm with a pink gold case and strap. Each watch comes with an interchangeable bracelet that can be switched for a calfskin or rubber strap with just the click of a button.
Van Cleef & Arpels
This year’s highlight watches from Van Cleef & Arpels are undoubtedly its métiers d’art pieces. of dream and emotion into the art of watchmaking. Two new watches are enriching the Poetic Complications collection, two invitations to bask in the allure of the heavens: Lady Jour Nuit and Lady Arpels Jour Nuit.
The journey continues in the Maison’s garden with the new Lady Arpels Brise d’Été watch. Our path then meanders through an enchanted forest, where the Extraordinary Dials collection embraces the Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté and Lady Arpels Nuit Enchantée creations. Finally, perpetuating the Maison’s tradition of precious objects, two original automatons – Apparition des Baies and Bouton d’Or – round out this voyage to the core of savoir-faire, uniting artistic craftsmanship and a quest for movement to enchant the hours as they tick by.
TAG Heuer
The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph celebrates the rich heritage of the brand with a timepiece that combines historical relevance with cutting-edge design. Designed for legibility, the new Carrera Chronograph brings forth a new and modern take on the 1963 vision, breathing new refining the design, refreshing the timeless allure of the panda chronograph look in the new Glassbox construction. The black azuré subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock contrast with the silver sunray-brushed dial, creating the signature bi-compax panda look. The addition of captivating, red-lacquered sub-dial hands further amplifies the contrast, ensuring clarity at a glance. To further elevate legibility, the watch incorporates TAG Heuer’s iconic Glassbox design, set to become a staple of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph line.
The new TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a trio of timepieces that put elegance and precision at the forefront. With a 36mm dial the newest introduction is a manifestation of understated femininity using precious materials such as 8K 5N rose gold, Mother-of-Pearl, and diamonds. These watches are a delicate dance between luxury and refinement.
The New Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph breaks the boundaries of time with the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, a fusion of heritage and innovation. Designed to captivate connoisseurs, collectors and watch enthusiasts with its spectacular movement and stunning design. At the heart of the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is the newly launched TH81-00 mechanical split-seconds chronograph calibre. Crafted entirely in titanium, it is one of the lightest automatic chronograph movements ever created by TAG Heuer, in partnership with the esteemed manufacturer Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis releases three new timepieces that combine daring design, craftsmanship and innovation. he new Orbis in Machina embraces both heritage as well as modern engineering, emphasising the duality of the design, and creating a visible link between watchmaking generations. The story is told from front to back and reveals the art of tradition matched by the cutting-edge architecture of today. The name, Orbis in Machina, is a nod to the revolving nature of the tourbillon, and the circular orbit of the watch’s display. A fusion of movement and mechanical ingenuity that brings the concept to life.
The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon is inspired by the Year of the Dragon. Roger Dubuis has skilfully crafted the dragon using 27 individual pieces of brass – each embellished with black lacquer on the sides and a pink gold treatment on the polished top surface. In typically inventive style, the pieces are set on 25 different levels, producing a 3D vision that is full of volume and vitality. Turn the watch over and the same flowing dragon appears – this time metallised on the inside of the caseback’s sapphire crystal. Precisely matching the view from the front, this stunning addition gives the dragon full power, no matter which side you are looking from.
The Excalibur Sunrise Double Tourbillon combines powerful colour and blazing light; two unmistakable hallmarks of Roger Dubuis design. This energising creation has found inspiration in the intense illumination of a breaking dawn. Here, we meet the vision of a radiant sunrise, along with the iconic spark of passionate tourbillon watchmaking. Embellished with a vivid gradient of gemstones, this visibly assertive timepiece shows how vibrant aesthetics can be equally matched by the strength of double tourbillon mechanics.
Hublot
The Big Bang Integrated Time Only watch now features an integrated bracelet and a 38mm dial that represents the essence of Hublot. It has all the features of a “Big Bang”: the powerful case with its two “ears” on either side, the bezel adorned with its six H- shaped functional screws, the large skeleton hour and minute hands accompanied by their seconds hand finished with the Manufacture’s signature counterpoise, all the even-numbered indices from 2 to 12 on the dial, and the rubber on the crown. But this ‘essence’ is not just limited to these aesthetic codes: Today, this essence makes it possible to reduce the diameter from 40 mm to 38 mm.
The Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14-Day Power Reserve Blue Sapphire is the watchmaker’s latest interpretation of sapphire with a new eye-catching blue colour. Featuring a sculptural barrell movement the MP-11 resembles the ocean with a curved seven-barrel design and a 14-day power reserve. To maintain a conventional height (10.9 mm), the seven barrels are coaxial and vertical. They are not integrated into the thickness of the movement. They are physically in front of it, set at 90° to it.
To allow their 336 hours of power reserve to reach the movement, Hublot had to design a tailor-made device: a 90° transmission which uses a helical worm gear, following the principle of an endless screw. The wheel in question is clearly visible between 9 and 10 o’clock. To ensure harmony with this mechanism, Hublot has taken care to place the balance opposite it at 2 o’clock, with its rate at 4 o’clock. The Hublot HUB9011 calibre, with 270 components, is also distinguished by its patented index-assembly system and silicon escapement which protects the movement from any electromagnetic or thermal interference.
A very slowly rotating disc (one revolution every two weeks) indicates the remaining power reserve as close as possible to its energy source, directly at the head of the seven aligned barrels. Furthermore, by echoing the shape of the barrels, the sapphire crystal naturally creates a magnifying effect on this signature element of the watch. The Big Bang MP-11 can be wound manually using the large, fluted crown with a worm screw-type relief that echoes the helical gear, or an electric Torx stylus. This sculptural construction is truly worthy of the name “Manufacture Piece”, earning its place in the MP collection.
