For centuries, watchmakers have concealed their most intricate work beneath a dial. Openworked watches reverse that convention, revealing the movement and transforming the mechanics of timekeeping into the design itself. Gears, bridges, balance wheels and escapements become visible from the front, allowing the wearer to observe the constant motion usually hidden inside the case.
Often described as skeleton watches, these timepieces are created by removing sections of the dial, plates and bridges without compromising the movement’s strength or performance. Some begin with an existing calibre that is carefully pared back, while others are designed as open structures from the outset. They differ from watches with sapphire casebacks, which reveal the movement only when the watch is removed from the wrist. An openworked design places the mechanics permanently on display.
Roger Dubuis
The technique requires remarkable precision. Each component must remain structurally sound while leaving enough space for light to travel through the movement. The exposed surfaces also demand meticulous finishing, as imperfections that would normally remain concealed are immediately visible. Polished angles, satin-brushed bridges and hand-finished edges give these highly technical watches an unexpectedly decorative quality.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 Pegasus
Openworked watches are now gaining renewed momentum as collectors look for more visible expressions of craftsmanship. Recent designs also feel cleaner and more architectural than the elaborate skeleton watches of the past. Monochromatic movements, coloured bridges and integrated indices improve legibility, while titanium, ceramic and sapphire cases lend the style a lighter, more contemporary character.
The latest releases demonstrate how widely the trend has spread. Audemars Piguet has introduced openworked perpetual calendars across its Royal Oak and Code 11.59 collections, while Zenith continues to expand its sculptural DEFY Skyline Skeleton family. Cartier has applied the technique to expressive shapes including the Crash and Tank Cintrée, and Hublot’s openworked Unico movement remains central to the evolving Big Bang.
Chanel J12 X-Ray
Part technical demonstration and part kinetic artwork, the openworked watch offers something increasingly valued in modern luxury: the opportunity to see not only the finished object, but the skill, structure and movement that bring it to life.
See more of the latest watches below:
Hublot Big Bang Sapphire Sky Blue
Czapek Promenade Transparence AMB01
Hermès Arceau Samarcande
Piaget Polo Skeleton watch
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Openworked
