Maison Margiela has unveiled its Autumn-Winter 2025 Avant-Première Collection, fronted by Miley Cyrus and photographed by Paolo Roversi.
The campaign features the American performer in a series of painterly portraits, in a stripped-back style.
Cyrus wears deconstructed tailoring, second-skin bodies, the Maison’s reinterpretation of the 5AC bag, and its classic Tabi boots. Techniques from the Artisanal atelier emphasise the idea of garments being handed down through generations, showing visible signs of wear.
One of the methods explored is bianchetto, originally used on furniture in the Maison’s studio. Applied to clothing, accessories and bodies, it reduces surfaces to a white canvas, acting as a symbolic veil that reveals the trace of time.
In tailoring, outerwear and workwear, fabric treatments evoke a lived-in effect. Coats and parkas feature permanent folds created through pressing techniques, while reversible wool coats and duffle coats with detachable liners can be worn inside-out as formalwear. Edges of tailoring and shirting are hand-greased for a timeworn appearance, and wool mohair suits mimic the fading of colour caused by sunlight. Shrink-to-fit boiling methods alter shapes, producing quilted linings spilling from jackets, reduced-size tracksuits, and suits that contract into tuxedos. Knitwear and denim further demonstrate wear and mending.
Deconstruction informs the dresses, skirts and tops. Garments invert traditional materials by placing construction fabrics on the outside. A pleated wool skirt detaches from its lining, a satin dress is worn inside-out with pads as decoration, and coats are reversed to expose their linings. Other pieces splice forms together, such as men’s trousers incorporated into dresses or shirts fused with skirts.
The 5AC bag is reintroduced in an unlined version with a softened silhouette, appearing in chestnut brown, cognac and the Maison’s signature white bianchetto. Alongside it, the Dress-Age line expands with tote and hobo variations in calfskin and goatskin, available in multiple sizes and colourways.
Shoes take on warped forms, including pumps, sling-backs, derbies and derby boots with aged soles. The Sprinters sneaker, inspired by mid-century track shoes, is updated in new colourways and treated with hand-applied techniques for an individual vintage effect.
The collection is available worldwide through Maison Margiela’s retail network and online platforms.
