To say Isabella Traglio grew up with Vhernier is no exaggeration. Originally established in 1984 by Italian sculptor Carlo Ciarli and Angela Camurati, Vhernier was acquired by the Traglio family in 2001. Over the following two decades, they developed it into an internationally recognised jewellery house distinguished by sculptural forms, unexpected materials and a distinctly Milanese approach to design.
Isabella experienced almost every facet of the business, from its boutiques and manufacturing ateliers to quality control, retail and corporate image. In 2022, she became Head of Design and Research & Development, taking responsibility for advancing the Maison’s creative language while preserving its recognisable identity.
Although the family sold Vhernier to Richemont in 2024, Isabella remains closely involved and continues to lead its creative direction. Here, she discusses designing jewellery that is “born to be worn”, the architectural thinking behind the new Freccia High Jewellery collection, Vhernier’s relationship with Middle Eastern collectors and how the Maison is approaching its next chapter.
What first attracted you to the world of jewellery?
I grew up surrounded by Vhernier, so jewellery has always been a natural part of my life. What fascinated me from the very beginning was not simply its beauty, but its extraordinary ability to bring together sculpture, architecture, craftsmanship and emotion in a single object. A jewel is unlike any other design object because it only reaches its full meaning when it is worn. It develops a personal relationship with the wearer, becoming part of their identity and accompanying them through different moments of life. That intimate dialogue between form, material and the body is something I still find endlessly inspiring, and it continues to guide the way I think about design today.
You have worked across Vhernier’s boutiques, manufacturing, quality control, retail and corporate image. How has this broad experience shaped your approach to design?
Having experienced so many different areas of the Maison has been invaluable because it has allowed me to understand every stage of a jewel’s journey. I have seen how an idea evolves from a sketch into a finished creation, how craftsmanship transforms a concept into reality, and how clients ultimately make a jewel their own. This helped me understand that design must work on every level: aesthetic, technical and emotional. Every decision we make must respect our commitment to craftsmanship, innovation and comfort. At Vhernier, we often say that jewellery is born to be worn, and that principle influences every aspect of our creative process.
Since becoming Head of Design and Research & Development in 2022, what have been your main priorities for the Maison?
My priority has been to continue nurturing the identity that makes Vhernier unique while ensuring that we never stop evolving. Research is fundamental to our philosophy. We are constantly exploring new materials, new engineering solutions and new manufacturing techniques that allow us to achieve forms that appear simple but require extraordinary technical complexity. At the same time, I believe every new creation should immediately be recognisable as Vhernier: creations that appear pure and simple, even amidst their inherent complexity.
For someone discovering Vhernier for the first time, what should they know about the brand?
The first thing to say is that Vhernier approaches jewellery through the language of sculpture. Our main source of inspiration is modern sculpture: conceptual, abstract, and, to a certain extent, even organic. We go to the core, reducing forms to their purest and most essential expression. Simplicity, however, is never the easiest path – it requires discipline and balance, as every volume, every curve and every proportion must be carefully thought, tried, and adjusted so that the jewel feels as beautiful to wear as it is to look at.
How does Vhernier position itself within today’s increasingly competitive jewellery market?
We have always followed our own path. Vhernier has never been interested in chasing trends or responding to temporary fashions. Instead, we focus on developing a strong and authentic creative identity that evolves consistently over time. Our collections are defined by sculptural forms, innovative materials and exceptional craftsmanship, but also by a very contemporary idea of elegance, one that is understated, confident and deeply personal. We believe that clients today are increasingly looking for pieces that express individuality rather than status, and this is precisely where Vhernier finds its place.
How do you balance the Maison’s recognisable codes with the need to continue evolving creatively?
Our design language provides a very clear foundation, but that foundation gives us the confidence to explore new possibilities. Every project begins with our core values –purity of form, energy, volume and wearability – but we continuously experiment with new materials, new structures and new technical solutions. Research is essential because a Maison that stops exploring inevitably stops growing. The challenge is to ensure that every innovation feels like a natural evolution of our identity rather than a departure from it.
What role does the Middle East play in Vhernier’s future growth?
The Middle East is an extremely important region for the world of fine jewellery. It is home to collectors who possess a sophisticated appreciation for craftsmanship, creativity and exceptional quality. We see a strong affinity between those values and the philosophy of Vhernier. As the Maison continues its international expansion, we look forward to building lasting relationships with clients in the region while remaining completely faithful to our identity: innovative jewellery sculpted in pure Milanese elegance.
What have you learned about the tastes and expectations of jewellery collectors in the region?
What strikes me most is the remarkable knowledge and curiosity of people from the region. Collectors appreciate technical excellence, but they are equally interested in originality and artistic vision. They look beyond the intrinsic value of gemstones and recognise the importance of design, craftsmanship and innovation. I believe this is why our creations resonate with them. Vhernier offers a distinctive perspective, one where sculpture, wearability and contemporary elegance exist in perfect harmony. They appreciate pieces that make a statement through design.
Why was this the right moment to reinterpret the Freccia design as a high jewellery collection?
Freccia has always embodied many of the principles that define Vhernier. Its geometry is pure, essential and immediately recognisable, yet it offers extraordinary possibilities for technical and creative exploration. Reinterpreting it as a high jewellery collection felt like a natural evolution, allowing us to elevate this architectural language through exceptional craftsmanship, innovative construction and carefully selected gemstones. Rather than changing the identity of Freccia, we wanted to reveal its full expressive potential and demonstrate how a simple idea can evolve into something truly extraordinary.
Freccia is built around the repetition of a triangular element. What attracted you to this shape, and what does it bring to the collection?
The triangle is one of the purest and most balanced geometric forms. What fascinates us is how the repetition of such a simple element can generate movement, rhythm and volume. As the triangular units interact with one another, they create an architecture that feels fluid despite its precision. This dialogue between geometry and softness reflects the essence of Vhernier. It also illustrates one of our guiding principles: complexity can emerge from simplicity when every proportion is carefully resolved.
At the same time, the triangular motif gave us the opportunity to explore light in a very distinctive way. Every surface captures and reflects light differently, creating a dynamic effect that changes with movement. This interaction between geometry, light and the body transforms Freccia into a collection that feels sculptural yet incredibly alive.
Is there a particular piece from the collection that stands out to you?
It is always difficult to choose, because every creation expresses a different aspect of Vhernier’s identity. I have a special connection with Abbraccio, which perfectly embodies our philosophy: sculptural, timeless and deeply connected to the body through its sense of movement and mystery, an infinite band where you cannot tell where it begins and where it ends.
I also feel very close to Calla, because it represents our ability to transform a natural inspiration into an abstract and contemporary form. Among our latest creations, Freccia High Jewellery is particularly meaningful to me, as it brings our architectural language into a new dimension through geometry, play of colours, light and exceptional craftsmanship. These three collections reflect the essence of Vhernier: purity of form, innovation and timeless elegance.
Tell us about colour at Vhernier and its importance within the collections.
Colour has always played a fundamental role in our creative language, but we approach it in a very distinctive way. Rather than using colour as decoration, we use it to enhance light, volume and form. Techniques such as Trasparenze allow us to create extraordinary depth by layering gemstones beneath rock crystal, producing colours that appear luminous and constantly changing.
We also enjoy combining precious metals with unconventional materials such as titanium or ebony, creating subtle contrasts that reinforce the sculptural quality of each piece. Every colour choice is carefully considered because it must serve the design rather than dominate it. For us, colour is another material—one that helps create harmony, emotion and a unique visual identity.
As the Maison expands globally, which markets and opportunities are most important for its next chapter?
Recent openings in Asia have marked an exciting new chapter for the Maison, demonstrating that our language of sculpture and contemporary elegance resonates across cultures. We continue to see opportunities wherever there is an audience that values creativity, craftsmanship and innovation. More than focusing on individual markets, our ambition is to introduce Vhernier to people who share our sensitivity towards the beauty of simplicity.
What else is in the pipeline that you can tell us about?
Research is part of our everyday life, so there is always something new taking shape behind the scenes. We are continuously exploring materials, construction techniques and creative ideas that challenge us to rethink what jewellery can be. While I cannot reveal specific projects, I can say that our future will remain firmly rooted in the values that have always defined Vhernier: innovation, craftsmanship and sculptural design.
At the same time, we are entering an exciting phase of international growth. Following our recent expansion into Asia, we look forward to bringing Vhernier to new audiences around the world, sharing the Maison’s unique vision of jewellery through carefully considered retail experiences and opportunities to engage with collectors and design enthusiasts.
Whatever comes next, our ambition will remain unchanged: to create timeless pieces that transcend trends, celebrate individuality and embody the beauty of simplicity. That philosophy has guided Vhernier since its beginnings, and it will continue to define the Maison’s future.
