Eliza Scarborough, Author at A&E Magazine

A&E Breakdown: Cruise 2018 Collections

Gucci by Kevin Tachman

Resort season has become increasingly important. what was once a niche season aimed at clothing the wealthy while they vacationed is now an annual fashion event in and of itself.

The ‘cruise’ shows result in some of the most extravagant runway presentations on the fashion calendar, while many of the year-defining ‘it-pieces’ now come from these very collections. From the prints to the silhouettes and single pieces to invest in, consider this a how-to guide for refreshing your wardrobe.

Why Seaweed Is The Next Super-Ingredient

The restorative powers of the sea have seeped into the medical traditions of almost every culture and we discover how seaweed base beauty products can be an essential part of your routine.

From the magical virtues bestowed on the thermal springs of ancient Greece, to the practice of thalassotherapy that runs through France, salty seawater is synonymous with sustaining life. And while our sources of this precious commodity are considerably more polluted than they used to be, our collective belief in healing properties of seawater persists.

Folk medicine and modern science both point to seaweed as a concentrated source of rehabilitative potential, with approximately 36 per cent of seaweed’s dry mass consisting of minerals drawn from the ocean. These include sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and phosphorus, not to mention micronutrients iodine, zinc, and copper along with 20 amino acids. It boasts 13 vitamins, including vitamins C, A and B12.

Seaweed is an antioxidant, an antiseptic and an anti-inflammatory, and when ingested it helps strengthen the gut wall, detox the body, and assist in the proliferation of good bacteria. When used topically, it manages to heal wounds while offsetting stress, pollution and, studies now reveal, the visible effects of ageing.

Here, we discover the secrets of its nourishing properties with our pick of the best seaweed grooming products to revitalise your skin, hair, and overall health, as although it has long been known as a favourite for women’s beauty, these sea greens are now increasing in popularity when it comes to grooming too.

seaweed marine beauty

A&E Interviews: Delpozo’s Josep Font

A look into the world of Josep Font’s Couture-like creations for Delpozo that give a nod to European elegance.

Founded in 1974 as Del Pozo, the brand began life as a boutique in Madrid, for which the owner Jesus del Pozo began producing his own designs, first for men, before finding greater success as a womenswear designer and later adding lucrative fragrances and bridal ranges. For his efforts del Pozo received recognition and became something of a household name in his homeland, but he failed to replicate such success outside Spain before his death in 2011. In 2012 the label was purchased by Perfumes & Diseño SA, who hired architect-turned-designer Josep Font to lead the renaissance of the label, re-branded Delpozo.

Font began his career designing under his own label, showing his collections internationally to quiet success, including being invited to show during the Paris Haute Couture Week schedule. Upon his appointment as Creative Director of Delpozo in 2012, his first move was to fight for a spot on the New York Fashion Week schedule in a bid to increase global visibility, and making it clear this is a brand with international intentions. Since then, the Spanish designer has won plaudits for his ultra-feminine, couture-inspired collections. His sculptural aesthetic, often blended with a fairy-tale frothiness, instantly revitalised the Spanish-heritage brand with a youthful, romantic appeal. In fact, Delpozo is classed as a demi-couture label, which means that while it calls on the rarefied traditions of craftsmanship associated with couture, pieces are not bespoke, another way to attract a new generation of customer.

Exploding onto the scene back in 2012, Font’s magical rendition of a new female has continued to flourish with sculptural forms which are fresh and full of joy. Now with a new store opening in Dubai Mall, and off the back of another triumphant collection for Spring Summer 2018, we talk to the man synonymous with ruffles, to discuss his design challenges, current muse, and vision for the future of Delpozo.

What is your first fashion memory?

It was a gown that my mother wore to a fundraising event. It was a long red crepe gown, which was tied at the neck with a huge bow from Santa Eulalia, a boutique in Barcelona. It was very simple yet so elegant. I was in awe.

When did you your passion for design and fashion start?

Since I was a child, I have felt a special inclination towards fashion and art. However, when it was time for college, I chose to study a more traditional career, like architecture, as it was the most creative path, but I never stopped designing. Before graduating, I decided to study Design and Pattern-making in Barcelona to fulfill my dream.

Do you feel that your education in architecture helped carve your design aesthetic?

Absolutely. One of the things that I learned thanks to my architectural studies, is the value of proportion and balance. I gained insight in shape and volume, which I apply continuously throughout my designs in every collection. It is the idea of a whole, and even though each piece must have its own balance on its own, the full collection must be proportioned. In the end, it’s all about balance. It’s using or editing the right amount of fabric, texture, colour, and volume. I’ll create a voluminous sleeve, for example, but it will be made from organza so it’s light, not only for the wearer but also visually, or a skirt with several pleats and ruffles in wool or crepe, creating a more refrained volume.

How did you find the transition from designing for your own label, to moving to a brand?

I’m the same type of creative person. I give it my all, as if it were my own. I’m involved in all the processes, from the collection creation, to the development of the product and the store launches. I don’t see the difference, and I’m as involved as with my own brand. I’m very passionate in what I do and I work in the same way.

Who is the Delpozo woman?

The Delpozo woman is not defined by age, nationality, nor profession. She’s a global citizen, and she has a certain mystery about her. She dresses for herself, not for others. It’s about her attitude.

How does she differ from the heritage customer?

She’s more global. That would be the one difference. The brand before the relaunch was more locally based in Spain. We have also widened the age spectrum, before it was more a 45-65 age gap, now we cater from 30-65.

How important is the heritage of the brand to you?

Delpozo was a renowned fashion house in Spain, with more than 40 years of history. It was very challenging for me, as my goal was to offer a fresh and modern vision of the house, but I still wanted to respect its legacy. Unfortunately, I never got to meet the founder, Jesus del Pozo in person, but have a lot in common regarding how we look at fashion, developing collections on a mannequin, creative research, volume construction, colour selection and protecting craftsmanship techniques.

How would you define the values of the Maison?

The DNA of the house is the importance of protecting and fostering artisanal techniques and our craftsmanship know-how. That’s something I’ve always respected, it’s a part of what Delpozo was, is and will be. Delpozo believes in a modern and feminine universe that differs through the fresh colour palette, with bold hues, delicate silhouettes, and innovative embroidery.

Can you tell us about your recent SS18 collection?

I always take two different elements and fuse them together. For Spring Summer 2018, I chose Slovakian photographer Maria Svarbova’s ‘Swimming pools’ series with Spanish composer Xavier Cugat’s music.

Cugat was a famous musician, who performed with his big band in the 40s and 50s, which made me think of those soirées at the Waldorf Astoria and lazy summer afternoons by the pool. That made me focus on circular silhouettes, including curved seams in the designs, and especially ruffles and pleats cascading everywhere. I worked with my team to develop what we baptised as the Muguet sleeve, a voluminous yet weightless sleeve inspired by the shape of the flower of the same name. I feel it is a very musical collection. The swimming pools evoked in Svarbova’s photography inspired the season’s colour palette. Ivory, opal green, orange, red, and swimming pool blue, were a pure colour proportion mixed with Art Nouveau elements.

I worked on different prints, an oversized paisley, a neon almost tribal print as well as a geometric print of fil coupé inspired by swimming pool tiles. For accessories, the Bow silhouette is king.

What was on your moodboard for SS18?

Xavier Cugat, Esther Williams, Abie Lane, Maria Svarbova’s ‘Swimming pool’ series, different pool images, and exotic flowers like the Diphylleia.

Do you have a favourite piece from the collection?

I never can choose a favourite piece as when I finish a collection, I’m usually very happy with all of it.

Tell us about the colours, they are very vibrant and clearly made an impact when you first showed in New York?

I always try to include bold colours in each collection, different shades of them, as I truly love colour. I consider colour another ‘construction’ element for my creations.

With 4 collections a year, how do you manage your designs, and keep them individual?

A lot of mental organisation! I need to separate each season as I work on three collections at a time. I’m about to finish Prefall 2018, am half way with Fall Winter 2018, and am starting with Resort 2019! It’s madness!

One of your many skills is cutting your own patterns, can you please run us through your design process?

As I mentioned before, one of Delpozo’s values is the design process which can be done by sketch, or how we usually work is modelling on a mannequin. That helps me visualise the silhouette with the fabric that it is going to be made from, and it makes it easier to adapt and edit the volume and proportion of each design.

Being prêt-à-couture is one of the factors that sets the brand apart, can you explain the meaning of this to us?

Delpozo applies mastered techniques from Couture to a modern business model that allows production capacity of each piece in more than one unit. Our production is made in Spain, except knit which is made in Italy.

What is the biggest challenge in designing in this way?

The time it requires! For me time is a true luxury.

Can you share with us what other aspects make the brand unique?

The team I have. When I arrived, the atelier was made up by 19 people. Today we are about 80!

In your opinion, what is the most flattering silhouette on a woman?

Whatever silhouette she feels most beautiful in.

Your designs have been worn by many famous faces, has there been one moment that you are most proud of?

Every moment is special and fills me with pride. It’s been a great experience and an honour for these amazing women to have chosen my creations to wear.

Who is your current fashion muse?

I really don’t have a muse. For me it’s the Delpozo women I design for. If I had to choose a fashion icon, it would be Jean Seberg. She was very modern for her era, and had a mysterious allure around her.

Tell us about your store opening in Dubai, as only your third standalone store, what made you choose the Middle East as your next destination?

Since the relaunch of the brand, the Middle East has become one of our most important markets and we have grown a lot in this region. We were very fortunate to have supporters like Salama Alabbar with Symphony, who understood the concept of the brand. With this first store it is a step forward in our relationship as partners.

How do you feel about fashion and style in the Middle East?

Middle Eastern women are very fashion forward, and are not afraid of colour or volume. I’m very impressed with how they combine this modernity whilst staying true to their traditions. It’s a very nice fusion that they pull off very elegantly. Plus, in this region you can find a wide range of women from different cultures and my collections speak to each one in a different manner. One can gravitate more towards the evening gowns, which are light and delicate, and for others they can appreciate the intricate construction of our tailored jackets and pants.

Will you be creating exclusive pieces for the Middle East market in conjunction with your store?

Indeed, I will, it will carry an exclusive capsule each season.

What is your future vision for Delpozo?

To become an established global luxury brand. That is my goal.

By Eliza Scarborough

Eight Ultimate Ways To Hydrate Your Skin

A dull complexion that won’t go away with maximum highlighter and bright blusher has a likely cause, dehydration.

Skin that’s lacking moisture has exactly the opposite look of a lit-from-within glow, but there are eight ultimate ways to hydrate and keep your complexion shining from inside out, so you can wake up with healthy, naturally dewy skin every day.

Watch This Face: Modern Fashion Muses

Kaia Gerber at Chanel SS18

Iconic models have shaped the fashion industry, acting as inspirations to the most influential designers.

From Naomi Campbell and Azzedine Alaïa who’s long-standing relationship is so close that Campbell calls the designer ‘Papa’, to Daria Werbowy and Phoebe Philo, with Daria appearing in an incredible seven of Céline’s campaigns, these partnerships inspire.

With the turn of the Millennial, no longer is it only the realm of supermodels, so stand back and meet a new wave of modern fashion muses.

By Eliza Scarborough

A&E Interviews : Laura Mercier

Renowned make-pp artist Laura Mercier reveals to A&E magazine her tricks of the trade.

Whether it’s the cult Secret Camouflage concealer, hero Translucent Loose Setting Powder or award-winning Tinted Moisturiser, chances are you’re familiar with Laura Mercier products and rely on them as part of your daily makeup routine. But you’re probably less familiar with the woman behind the international beauty brand.

The pioneer of the ‘Flawless Face’, a world-renowned makeup artist and international businesswoman, Mercier was raised in Provence and began her training at 17 at a painting school in Paris. Mercier soon shifted her focus from the canvas to the face, specialising in skincare and makeup, before becoming a freelance makeup artist and moving to New York in 1985 to work with some of the most esteemed fashion and beauty magazines in the business.

Just over a decade later, Laura Mercier Cosmetics was launched, grounded in Mercier’s philosophy of creating a naturally flawless complexion, designed to benefit women of all ages and skin types. More than any other make-up artist, Mercier is known for creating flawless, soft, glowing complexions, with her products whose transformative powers were around long before Instagram filters.

Here, Mercier shares with us the secrets behind creating a cult beauty product, what she defines as beauty, and how she built her eponymous cosmetics empire on the premise that every woman deserves to feel beautiful.

What first inspired you to pursue beauty as a profession, and not just a passion?

What inspired me to pursue beauty as a profession was when I was studying aesthetics at Carita in Paris and one of my classes was assisting the makeup artist that taught artistry. I studied art and painting in school, so I was so inspired and quite interested in how this artistic expression could translate into beauty.

Have you faced many challenges throughout your career?

I think no matter what, life will always present you with challenges, including those within your career. It goes without saying that at the time, you don’t understand why you are going through something or why you are being challenged, but when I look back at those times and now understand the reason, I am grateful for these challenges as they brought me to many great places and where I am and who I am today.

What is your definition of beauty?

I find beauty in everything and really don’t have a definition of beauty. The core philosophy of my brand is, ‘What makes you unique, makes you beautiful,’ and I stay true to this philosophy to this day. I think it is important that we celebrate what is unique to us and embrace who we are. It is very easy today to get caught up in what we are lacking and an idea that we should look a certain way. I hope that I can inspire others to embrace their own unique beauty.

Who are your beauty icons, past or present?

I have many beauty icons, but for me I love the classic Hollywood icons of the 40’s and 50’s such as Eva Gardner, Brigitte Bardot, and Sophia Loren. Their makeup look was their signature, and part of their persona. I just love how important every element of their look was, which is a part of what makes them an icon to me.

Now that you have grown a beauty empire, is there anything else that you would like to achieve next?

I think there is still so much to be done! I am an artist, and to me there is always so much to be done and you never feel like you are finished. I still love creating products, getting in there with the team and seeing what we can improve on. I will look to maybe update with new technology or see what is next. It is an evolution, and it is exciting that we are all inspired to create products that make women feel and look beautiful.

Laura Mercier reveals some of her top beauty secrets, including how we can achieve the perfect complexion.

If you don’t have time to do your makeup, at the very least put something on your lip. This will immediately give you a more polished, sophisticated look.
Don’t cake on your makeup, less is more and will make you look younger and more youthful.
Ensure that your foundation shade matches your décolletage.
A smile makes everyone look beautiful, regardless of whether you have makeup on or not.
Accept and embrace what you deem as your ‘flaws’. When you are happy with yourself, your inner beauty shines through as your outer beauty.

By Eliza Scarborough

A&E Editorial: Tod’s, The Italian Dream

See our full shoot with Tod’s Fall 17 collection on the banks of Lake Como and bring some of the classic elegance to your wardrobe this season.

A modern and dynamic style, versatile whilst cosmopolitan, that transforms the handmade art of Tod’s artisans into a distinctive lifestyle and attitude.

HIM: Green parka leather jacket, Grey soft wool jumper

HER: Quilted cotton jacket with leather sleeves, Calf leather brown skirt, High heel leather boots with rubber sole, Wave backpack. ALL TOD’S

LEFT IMAGE: White cotton shirt, Blue denim trousers, Sneakers in leather and neoprene, Acetate sunglasses with leather details

RIGHT IMAGE: Calf leather shirt and skirt. ALL TOD’S

LEFT IMAGE: Leather green trench, Soft black turtleneck, Double T in pony with leather details

RIGHT IMAGE: Soft grey wool jumper,Cotton trousers,Suede and sheepskin backpack. ALL TOD’S

HIM: Quilted brown suede jacket, Cotton trousers, Suede winter Gommino

HER: Laser cut calf leather shirt and skirt, Cotton shirt, Sella bag, High heel boots. ALL TOD’S

LEFT IMAGE: Soft wool jumper with star, Calf leather skirt, Calf red leather boots with rubber sole, Sella pony bag

RIGHT IMAGE:

HIM: Soft blue wool jumper, Cotton trousers, Winter Gommino in green leather and sheepskin, Black leather hand bag

HER: Fur red jacket with leather details, Calf leather trousers, High heel leather boots. ALL TOD’S

LEFT IMAGE:

HIM: Quilted leather jacket in grey, Cotton black trousers, Leather black sneakers

HER: Soft black velvet mini dress with metallic details, Calf leather trousers, Sella pony bag, Leather boots with rubber sole. ALL TOD’S

RIGHT IMAGE:

HER: Colour block nylon puffer, Calf leather trousers, Calf leather high boots, Gommino white bag, Acetate sunglasses with leather details

HIM: Soft wool jumper, Acetate sunglasses with leather details. ALL TOD’S

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Carla Guler
Hair & Make-up: Scarlett Burton
Models: Cheyenne Lopez at Premier and Lucas Muller at Elite
Location: Lake Como

A&E Editorial: Roger Vivier Effortless Elegance

This season the Roger Vivier woman is a delicious eccentric who embellishes her look with accessories inspired by decorative elements.

Soft Guipure Paillette Bag, Bootie Wallflower. All Roger Vivier

LEFT IMAGE: Bootie Podium Stripes

RIGHT IMAGE: Evening Box Bag, Mary Jane Podium Shoes.

All Roger Vivier

LEFT IMAGE: Viv’ Cabas Guipure Leopard Mini Bag, Derby Guipure Shoes

RIGHT IMAGE: Pilgrim de Jour Ottowoman Bag, Square Podium Ottowoman Shoes

All Roger Vivier

LEFT IMAGE: Viv’ Cabas Stripes Bag

RIGHT IMAGE: Viv’ Bag, Derby Guipure Shoes

All Roger Vivier

Viv’ Bag, Double Sneaky Viv’ Shoes. All Roger Vivier

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough

Photographer: Lezli and Rose

Hair and Make-up: Ian McIntosh at Carol Hayes

Model: Marizanne Visser at Marilyn

Location: Paris, France

Bella Freud: Unconventional Pathway to Success

British designer Bella Freud is the great-granddaughter of Sigmund Freud and the daughter of the artist Lucian Freud, and is famous for her evocative knitwear and homeware lines. Bella’s eponymous brand was founded in the early 90s featuring knitted dresses in bookish colours, mini tailored suits and a small selection of shoes and bags.

About a decade later, and partly as a result of a collaboration with John Malkovich, the cult sweater was born. Freud made a couple of short films with the Hollywood actor and it was on the set that one of her most famous creations came into being almost by chance. ‘I made some short films with John Malkovich, and the last one we did was about beatniks, a poet and women who were his admirers,’ Freud explains. She wanted one of the women to wear a jumper that would look like band merchandise and it ended up being inscribed with the words ‘Ginsberg is god’. ‘Someone had a flip of the tongue and said, ‘Godard is dog’, and that was perfect for meaningful and meaningless poetry.’ The jumper remains one of the bestsellers to date and reads ‘Ginsberg is god’ on the front and ‘Godard is dog’ on the back.

From Jane Birkin to David Bowie, Bella Freud draws inspiration from some of fashion and music’s most iconic stars. But it is her cult sweaters, decorated with doodles, that have put her on the fashion map. Whether brightly coloured or monochrome, they slot into the modern girl’s wardrobe with ease, as attested by legions of fangirls, from Kate Moss to Alexa Chung. However, if the knitwear is the soft centre of Freud’s brand, she’s slowly building an empire around it. In addition to her standalone shop in Marylebone, she currently produces a line of homeware, candles, and perfume, with recent successes including a collaboration with J Brand with whom she created a denim line complemented by signature jumpers that are embellished with words.

Her cult jumpers have made her fashion royalty, and here we talk to the woman behind the brand about not only her inspirations, but what has been behind the growth of her empire, and what goes into creating an icon.

How would you describe the Bella Freud aesthetic?

I describe it as, ‘upmarket irreverence’.

You set up your label in 1990, did you always want to be a fashion designer?

No, but I have always been interested in how clothes can make you feel different. Being a designer, you can really delve into this.

What are your earliest fashion memories?

I remember a glamorous older sister of a friend coming back from London with clothes from Biba, they were so beautiful, and tiny.

Have you been inspired by your family?

Yes, both my parents were creative and courageous in their different ways.

Who is your style icon?

It isn’t just one person, I have a few people I love the look of and always have done like Anita Pallenberg, Coco Chanel, Miles Davis, or Serge Gainsbourg. At the moment I’m loving the style of Jean Michel Basquiat, because there is an exhibition of his work on and I’ve seen a lot of pictures of him.

Do you have a favourite fashion era, and does that specifically inspire your style?

I like the Edwardian era for fashion but it doesn’t specifically influence my style, it’s more of an undercurrent of the style rather than replicating it.

What inspired you to start your own line?

I had a fantasy of a look I wanted to see on a girl and I didn’t stop until I had brought it to life. I was obsessed with the fictional heroine of Colette’s novel Claudine, and in my mind I was dressing her as a contemporary.

Tell us about how you moved away from catwalk collections, and into designing cult sweaters?

I never felt connected to people when I was doing fashion shows, it went too fast. I made two short films when I first started my label in the early 90’s, then I met John Malkovich and we started making films together which was so exhilarating.

Can you share with us the lessons that you have learnt from having your own label and business?

It is a very hard business and you have to be tenacious.

What has been your biggest challenge so far in growing your business?

Cashflow. And getting away from my desk.

You are renowned for your worded sweaters. What inspires these iconic words and how do you keep them thoughtful and considered?

That’s where getting away from my desk comes in, I like to read, see things, and listen to music, as that is when ideas germinate. I’m always on the look out, I have my sketchbook with me always and draw words whenever they seem to come to life somewhere.

Tell us about your most iconic sweater?

1970 seems to have captured peoples’ imagination. It is very flattering too, the white stripe casts a pretty glow on the face, like a string of pearls. I liked the look of it, and it just took off and hasn’t stopped.

Can you share with us what led you to the design of your infamous 1970 logo?

I was messing about on the photocopier and saw the date printed and liked the look of it. It just looked right and reminded me of the exciting atmosphere associated with that date, New York grunge, Patti Smith, Punk Rock.

Can you tell us about the iconic Pluto whippet dog design?

I asked my father to write my name for my logo and he drew a little picture of his whippet Pluto. It was so perfect.

What do you feel makes your designs so popular, and has given them a cult status?

Thank you! Maybe they have an element of cult status because you can’t get them everywhere.

Why did you decide to add tailoring into your collection?

I have always been obsessed with tailoring, I wanted to be a bus conductor so I could wear the suit. I used to do tailoring, so when I opened my shop I decided to make a few special suits for women like me who like boyish, girlish, dressing. I have just made a Tuxedo collection which I will add to each season. I love Tuxedos.

How do you design with your customer in mind?

I mostly design with friends in mind. I like to think of people whose style I like or who I just like, then imagine things they would enjoy wearing.

If you could give women any style advice, what would it be?

My advice would be to ignore peoples’ advice.

How would you describe your personal style, and how has it evolved over the years?

My style is scruffy and elegant. I am more adventurous now in my dressing than I was, maybe it’s just because I have more clothes.

Other than your own label, what designers do you love to wear?

I have lots of Céline, I love it. I like to wear my friends’ clothes who are designers so I wear a bit of Vampires Wife, maybe a Molly Goddard t shirt, but shoes are my passion. I love Christian Louboutin, Céline, all trainers, Gucci, so pretty much any shoes.

Tell us about your collaboration with J Brand, and why you chose this brand to partner with? What is your favourite stand-out piece from the collection?

I have always wanted to work with a denim brand, J Brand have a fantastic reputation and have done other good collaborations. My favourite piece from the collection is the jumpsuit, it is based on something Farrah Fawcett Majors would have worn, its sexy and it looks functional.

In fashion and fragrance there is a focus on characters throughout your work, what is the significance of creating an identity, and how important is it to keep a sense of humour?

Identity is everything. Style is about successfully accessing your identity and playing with it while staying true to it. I like the in jokes of fashion, the campness, and playing around with serious ideas, it brings things to life.

As you launch your new fragrance Psychoanalysis, can you share with us the first fragrance that you remember?

I remember the smell of Patchouli as a child. I really didn’t like it, but now I use it as a bit of grit at the base of a fragrance. It gives it power, I love it!

Tell us a bit about Psychoanalysis? How did you go about creating this scent?

I spent some time at the Freud Museum in Hampstead where my great grandfather lived for his final year of life. I wanted the fragrance to smell of leather, books, a cigar, and a bunch of flowers. Then I wanted the box to be intriguing too, it is silver covered, like an old mirror. I like the idea of the warmth and sexiness of the intellect.

This joins a collection of five other fragrances, do you have a favourite among them, or do you tend to just flit between them?

My favourite is the signature perfume which smells of Amber, I find that smell incredibly comforting and settling. I like a spritz of 1970 for the evening, it is a much tenser atmosphere, so good for being out on the town.

Can you share with us the catalyst for branching out into home wear and fragrances? What is next for Bella Freud?

I am obsessed with interiors! I have been doing more home design projects and I feel my fashion can extend to interiors in a pleasing way. I enjoy expanding this immensely, my dream is to team up with a company to make bedlinen and towels – and everything!

By Eliza Scarborough

See: Our November Issue

Dior Cruise 18: A Desert Landscape

Featuring studs and embellishments, the J’Adior, Lady Dior, and Dior Revolution Flap Bags are back for this season, with a bold Western style.

‘J’ADIOR’ BAG BY DIOR

LEFT IMAGE: ‘LADY DIOR’ BAG RIGHT IMAGE: FROM LEFT TO RIGHT – ‘LADY DIOR’ BAG, ‘DIORADDICT’ FLAP BAG ALL BY DIOR

LEFT IMAGE: FROM LEFT TO RIGHT – ‘J’ADIOR’ BAG, ‘DIORAMA’ BAG RIGHT IMAGE: ‘DIORADDICT’ HANDLE BAG ALL BY DIOR

LEFT IMAGE: ‘MINIAUDIÈRE’ BAG RIGHT IMAGE: ‘LADY DIOR’ BAG ALL BY DIOR

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Tobi Jenkins

READ MORE

Luxury Backpacks Worth the Splurge

Escape: Mandarin Oriental, London

With bustling Knightsbridge on its doorstep and leafy Hyde Park at its rear, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park is London’s most prestigious address.

Blending sumptuous guestrooms with a world-leading spa and a stylish bar, it is the definitive destination for a luxury escape. And with two award-winning restaurants including Bar Boulud, London and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, the first London restaurant for one of the UK’s most renowned chefs, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park stands at the culinary centre of the capital.

Rooms & Suites

Following the reveal of a dramatic new lobby entrance and reception area in January, the guestrooms and suites are now more luxurious and comfortable than ever before, encompassing details inspired by the building’s Edwardian heritage and the natural beauty of Hyde Park. Internationally renowned interior designer, Joyce Wang, commissioned to oversee the overall design concept, sought inspiration from the royal park, and was influenced by the glamour of the early 20th century’s Golden Age of travel.

Light and contemporary, they have a unique and individual layout, featuring alcoves, warm grey panelled walls, and hand-gilded mirror artwork. Art Deco-inspired features and wildlife adornments are present throughout the space, reminiscent of the nearby park, and they overlook fashionable Knightsbridge or the inner courtyard with views of a green landscaped living wall. Beds with leather-tufted headboards, large leather-topped writing desks, and rugs inspired by the hotel’s park-side location are included in the new furnishings, while bathrooms are fashioned from Volakas marble with plenty of bathroom goodies from Miller Harris and Jo Hansford.

Restoration

The first phase of the renovation of Mandarin Oriental included the launch of 95 new and luxurious guest rooms and suites in the Knightsbridge wing. In addition, the hotel’s classic entrance, notable main lobby and reception lounge have been reconfigured and redesigned to maximise natural daylight, and the building’s iconic façade has been revitalised.

Together with these building changes, the hotel continued its long-established relationship with couture designer Jenny Packham, to unveil its new signature fan. Taking inspiration from the property’s ideal location and new look, Jenny Packham was commissioned to create a fan, symbolic of the new-look Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London. The sticks of the fan are made of rosewood, laser cut in the same pattern as the railings on the gates of No 1, London home to the Duke of Wellington, unveiling a pattern that is rich and light at the same time. The body of the fan comprised of different types of silks, and has been expertly dyed and hand-painted to match the exact pantone referencing the hotel, with an optical white organza used for the top layer, and raw silk muslin painted in blue as the bottom layer. Sweet chestnut leaves are scattered throughout to create a collage of foliage, which has been made using layers of the finest raw silk muslin in three variant shades of green, while inner veins on each leaf have been hand embroidered with a fine gold and silver thread. Final touches were added with the addition of 2mm antique silver and transparent sequins dating from the 1920s, whilst the Swarovski crystals are reminiscent of dew drops on the trees.

Food & Drink

Mandarin Oriental is spearheading a drive to get the world’s best chefs into its hotels and here guests will find Heston Blumenthal’s two Michelin-starred London address, Dinner, while Bar Boulud is the fiefdom of New York based chef Daniel Boulud and provides a bistro style alternative.

ROGER VIVIER: Sole Mates

The renaissance of Roger Vivier with Bruno Frisoni & Ines De La Fressange.

BRUNO FRISONI

Creative Director Bruno Frisoni has seen trends in footwear come and go, having been at the creative helm of stiletto-pioneer house Roger Vivier since 2004. First honing his talent with fashion designers in the 1980s, Frisoni has revived Roger Vivier with an astute sense of modernity while retaining the house’s rich heritage.

INES DE LA FRESSANGE wearing VIV’ CABAS GUIPURE LEOPARD, Shoes: BOOTIE PODIUM STRIPES

Together with Brand Ambassador for Roger Vivier, Ines de la Fressange, who is regarded as one of France’s legendary beauties, the Parisian label steeped in history has gone on to retain all of its hallmarks. Think classic square toes and vintage-feel, jewel-encrusted embellishments.

‘Roger Vivier guides me; I always try to look at his work to reinterpret it with my vision in keeping with his soul and philosophy.’

– Bruno Frisoni

To celebrate the November opening of the new Roger Vivier store in Dubai Mall, we chat to the talented duo, who share their thoughts on style and what sets a Roger Vivier accessory apart from others.

How do you feel you complement each other?

BRUNO: She talks and I listen! She always turns any dramas into some fun, and comments on everything, which is good as it makes me think. The way I like to describe our work dynamic is that we don’t work together, instead we live the brand together.

INES: It is a good balance, as I am more like the customer than the designer.

How would you interpret elegance?

INES: I think it is a reflection of your thoughts. So many people show up with brands and logos, but showing off your fortune doesn’t come across as elegant.

What do you think of how brands are projecting women empowerment? Do you think women need to be reminded through fashion that this is important?

INES: In one way there is the position of the woman in the world, and it is a fight that will never stop. We have to be careful with the image of women, and it is important to talk and think about it, however nowadays we accept that women are liberated. She can now work, look after children, yet still look stylish, showing that there is no longer a decision between cleverness, beauty, or style. The power of the woman is to decide what she is buying, as that is not the brands decision.

How challenging is it to satisfy the global client of today, from traditional customers to millennials?

BRUNO: In general, I find that all our customers want to look younger, across all generations, and you need to give them choices, from the daughter to the mother. You should push your customers out of their comfort zone, without scaring and pushing them away. It is a matter of balance, as it is dangerous to evolve too much and lose your core loyal clients, yet it is important to keep developing.

INES: If you try to satisfy everyone, it is usually not what they want and you don’t endup satisfying anyone. We have signature products that sit alongside our trendier pieces, and we work more on creating pieces that we have courage in and believe in.

The buckle has always been a core design for you, but how do you keep it alive, yet avoid repetition?

BRUNO: I have always loved the buckle, especially because it was alive before it was a fashion item and became fashionable. In a way it is abstract, as it is just an element and can be changed over time. It can be quite minimal if you look at the style and silhouette, because it is a silver frame on a patent black leather shoe, however with something like this you can reinterpret it in so many ways. It can be likened to a work of art but my analogy is that they are very different, art can be framed, whereas you put the frame on Roger Vivier.

INES: It is like music, you have eight notes, but you can create so much with them, from symphonies to rock.

INES DE LA FRESSANGE wearing Bag: VIV’ CABAS” Shoes: POINTY BALLERINA

Can you tell us about the AW collection, the mood and inspiration?

BRUNO: The central idea was the big stripe, which is at the heart of the collection, changing depending on its colour treatment. There is also the floral embroidery which is inspired by 19th-century Ottoman hangings, and is composed of golden metallic or multi-coloured thread depending on the design. Then of course there is also the square-shaped buckle and block heels, inspired by the audacious 70’s femininity.

What do you do in your free time?

BRUNO: I read books.

INES: I like to do nothing!

Tell us something nobody knows about you?

BRUNO: I love speed, and I love to drive cars. I find it very exciting and I don’t think people see me in this way.

INES: I don’t have good hair, but I do have a very good hairdresser!

What are your feelings about social media?

BRUNO: I follow many people, but I have recently been cleaning up my profile as I have needed to edit down the number of people I follow. I have found it too congested. I tend to just do my posts and concentrate on them, rather than following others. Sometimes friends post too much and it takes away the curiosity, giving too much of their lives away.

INES: I think it is great for young designers who are starting out, and I like to share their products on my account as I love the fact that my platform can help small brands with just one post. I see it like my own magazine, and I like the power of that.

How would you like the world to remember you and what’s the one thing you’d still aim to achieve?

BRUNO: This is not something I even think of, I love the present and the moment, but I am not thinking about life after me.

INES: I would love to create a foundation for young people in fashion, to give them the opportunity to work in the fashion world.

INES DE LA FRESSANGE wearing Bag: VIV’ BOW Shoes: SQUARE PODIUM BOOTIE

Do you have any regrets?

BRUNO: No, I am not a man of regrets.

INES: That I have worked so hard from a young age, and haven’t spent enough time with my family.

How would you describe each other?

BRUNO: She brings life wherever she goes.

INES: He is childish, because of his dreams and creativity!

By Lara Mansour Sawaya

Roger Vivier is available at The Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates, The Galleria on Al Maryah Island, Level Shoes and at Bloomingdale’s Kuwait.

My Life, My Style: Shahad Ballan

Entertainment Tonight Bil Arabi host Shahad is as stylish off screen as she is on, summing up her personal style as casual with a healthy dose of glamour. Whether it is a simple pair of jeans and a t-shirt or a chic dress, the shoe addict will always accessorise her look with a pair of towering heels from her extensive collection.

Beginning her career in television with a chance encounter, Shahad was first seen on the red carpet when she was a researcher escorting a guest for an interview. After graduating from studying film making, and while working in her first job as a researcher, a producer spotted Shahad and asked if she would be interested in working on a pilot show. Without experience in presenting, and in the space of one week, she made the big leap from being a researcher to becoming a presenter on her own show. This move into television was the catalyst for Ballan to develop her taste in style, as growing up she tended to only wear black. Dressing for the camera meant stepping out of her comfort zone and experimenting with colour, working out what she liked and what worked for her.

I tend to do my shopping abroad as it is better for price and there is always more of a selection than what you will find in Dubai. I found this bag when shopping in Paris after falling in love with the campaign, so when I saw it in maroon I had to purchase it, partly because I felt that the colour goes with everything throughout the seasons, and I like how it can be worn in different ways, with or without the chain.

I love taking pictures and always have done since I was young, particularly having a passion for collecting cameras. I enjoy taking spontaneous pictures that speak and relay raw emotion, so will always carry a camera with me, however small my bag is. This particular model is by Canon and is great for Instagram posts too, as it has a flip screen and can easily be connected to my phone through WIFI.

This pair of Chanel shoes remind me of my mother, as they are both stylish and classic. When I was younger I would try on her shoes and walk around in them, which I think was the start of my love for heels. These sling back pumps are really comfortable with the mid-heel, yet still chic and stylish.

When presenting I am always standing for hours, and since I am the shortest presenter I will always wear heels when filming, so I always look for comfortable styles. These Saint Laurent Tribute sandals may not look it, but for long hours they are ideal, so when I find a style that I know I can use a lot, I will make the investment and purchase them in many shades.

I first came across the brand Self Portrait when it caught my attention on Instagram because of the combinations of lace, patterns, and colours, yet I didn’t realise it was stocked in Dubai until I walked past it in Harvey Nichols. It is now one of my go-to designers for my TV work wardrobe, as they tend to be the perfect length, and conservative yet still sexy.

I own many pairs of sunglasses and this Dior pair is the latest in my collection. They are an updated aviator style, and I like how they are unique with their vintage yet modern style. In general, I tend to wear large oversized styles that look glamorous, especially because my face shape doesn’t work as well with smaller, more delicate shapes.

Jeans are my everyday uniform, and I think that every woman should have a classic pair of non-ripped jeans in their wardrobe which are elegant and can be worn for either a casual meeting or in the evening with heels. These are the first jeans I have bought from Abercrombie & Fitch, but they are the perfect cut, high waisted to emphasise your bum and waist, with a skinny leg and ankle crop.

I first smelt this Carolina Herrera scent on my sister after I bought her the perfume as a gift, and then fell in love so had to get it for myself! Also, I am a shoe addict so I find the packaging such a creative way to present the perfume product. When it comes to fragrances. I tend to wear different perfumes for different parts of the days, with stronger oud scents in the evening.

By Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Henry Pascual

Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins

Victoire de Castellane’s new high jewellery collection for the Maison Dior pursues its exploration of the Royal domain.

Here for Versailles, act II, the gardens, their architectural arrangement and botanical world harmonise with the Chateau and its ornamental detailing, the theatre of inspiration for the previous collection.

“I wanted that, in each jewel, we rediscover the paradoxical combining of nature and culture, so characteristic of Le Nôtre’s work and of the park at Versailles.”- Victoire de Castellane

Plaisir Champêtre brooch, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. By Dior Fine Jewellery.

LEFT IMAGE: Bosquet de la Reine Tourmaline Parabaïa earrings, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. RIGHT IMAGE: Orangerie Grenat Spessartite bracelet, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. All by Dior Fine Jewellery.

LEFT IMAGE: Bosquet de la Reine Emeraude ring, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. RIGHT IMAGE: Trianon Diamant necklace, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. All by Dior Fine Jewellery.

LEFT IMAGE: Bosquet de la Girandole Opale Noir double ring, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. RIGHT IMAGE: Bosquet de la Salle de Bal Emeraude necklace, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. All by Dior Fine Jewellery.

LEFT IMAGE: Bosquet de L’Encelade Saphir Bodice Jewel necklace Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. RIGHT IMAGE: Plaisir Champêtre Diamant necklace, Dior à Versailles, Côté Jardins. All by Dior Fine Jewellery.

Photographer: Brigitte Niedermair

See Every Image From A&E Fine Jewellery Shoot

Take some of the finest jewellery in the world, add a selection of cute animals and you have one of the most visually stunning editorial shoots from our October issue.

Frank Easter Burkett Markham the French Bulldog looks positively regal in Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Necklace, while a grey parrot dazzles in Bulgari and a peacock Perciville added an extra wow factor to the Tiffany & Co collection. You’ll be adding these images to your Pinterest board in no time.

LOUIS VUITTON

Bailey wears, Louis Vuitton L’Âme du Voyage collection Necklace in white gold and diamonds

TIFFANY & CO.

Perciville wears, Schlumberger Apollo Ear Clips and Sapphire Ring

CHAUMET

Frank Easter Burkett Markham wears, Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Necklace

BOUCHERON

Molly wears, Blé d’été Bracelet

DAVID MORRIS

Azul wears, Le Jardin Collection Earrings with Marquise and Brilliant Cut White Diamonds with Pear Shape Rubies

LOUIS VUITTON

Eugene wears Louis Vuitton Voyage dans le Temps collection Necklace in white gold, Akoya pearls and diamonds

DIOR

Frank wears, Rose Dior Bagatelle Necklace

CHAUMET

Sunny and Star wear, Joséphine Aigrette Impériale Rings

BVLGARI

Florence wears, Diva’s Dream Necklace in Pink Gold with Amethyst, Rubellite and Pavé Diamonds

FASHION DIRECTOR: ELIZA SCARBOROUGH
PHOTOGRAPHER: TOBI JENKINS

The Making Of Dioraddict Flap Bag

The new Dioraddict in Oblique Canvas bag revisits a timeless style with Maria Grazia Chiuri’s touch of modernity to create a true statement piece.

Its fastener, inspired by old trunks, bears the Dior signature, while the detachable gold metal chain can be replaced by a bohemian shoulder strap. Its canvas comes directly from the House’s archives, having been created by Marc Bohan in 1967, and taken up this year by the Artistic Director.

The making of this bag begins with a visit to Flanders, a family-owned weaving workshop, and the same one that almost fifty years ago was already making this graphic canvas. To begin, a motor unwinds all the bobbins of warp threads necessary to produce the fabric in order to rewind them in a precise order onto one single and very large bobbin, as it takes more than 9,700 threads to produce a Dior Oblique canvas.

Next, a weaver takes charge of placing and tying each thread onto each of the hooks. This stage requires a day’s work. When the jacquard loom is ready, weaving can begin. The back-and-forth motion begins to create the pattern, and bit by bit, the ‘Dior’ motifs appear, with chevrons on the reverse, resulting in an underside which is just as beautiful as the top.

The making continues with the cutting of the canvas at the House’s leatherworking ateliers near Florence, with the patterns positioned using the ‘i’ of each ‘Dior’ as registration points. This method results in the same slanting motif on all models. Next, the artisan selects the burgundy calfskin by relying on his sense of touch and his trained eye. In all, twenty-three elements of leather and canvas are needed to make the bag.

Then the artisan attaches the fastener and applies three coats of black paint and a layer of fixative varnish on all the exposed edges of the bag. After a drying period of more than twenty-four hours, the inscription ‘Christian Dior Paris, Made in Italy’ is embossed with gold ribbon and placed just below the inside pocket. At this stage of manufacture, the artisan can finally sew the various parts together, and does so using a ‘marcapunto’ stitch. With its recognisably graphic aesthetic, it’s a stitch that comes from the tradition of trunk-making. The bag is finally completed with the addition of the detachable gilt metal chain and key, subtly concealed inside its leather cover.

Photography: Pol Baril

A&E Interviews: Giuseppe Zanotti

Since he showed his first collection of jewelled footwear in New York in 1994, Giuseppe Zanotti has enchanted the worlds of fashion and entertainment with his ingenious, elaborate and tirelessly innovative designs.

Mixing innocence and rock & roll, refinement with sex appeal and a love of craft with a futuristic, boundary pushing aesthetic, every Giuseppe Zanotti shoe is a true original, created using time-honoured artisanal techniques that ensure the highest level of quality.

Born in San Mauro Pascoli, Italy, just a few kilometres from Fellini’s Rimini, which has a long tradition of shoemaking, dating back to the 1930s, Zanotti has always had shoe craft in his blood. ‘I was born in a town where everyone was used to the smell of leather,’ he says. ‘Since I was a creative boy, I decided to put my talents and ideas into making shoes.’

Fast forward to the 80s, and Zanotti began his fashion career working with renowned maisons like Dior, Missoni, Valentino, Roberto Cavalli, Thierry Mugler and Gianfranco Ferré, alongside evening’s spent DJ-ing, before launching his eponymous label at the Plaza Hotel in 1994. Quickly gaining international recognition for elaborate and innovative collections, the Italian designer developed his signature hallmarks, the polished metal bar buckle and inscribed signature plaque, both adding a glimmer of graphic to the highly-coveted sports silhouettes.

With a dazzling line-up of bejewelled footwear, sculptural pumps, plus the iconic twin zip sneakers, which denote the ultimate in high-end streetwear, Giuseppe Zanotti Design has gone from success to success in the past two decades. Expanding globally and incorporating bags, jewellery, men’s shoes and ready-to-wear, its founder’s spirit stays the same. His tireless creativity is born out of a love of art, music, design, and a dedication to providing women with the most superlative shoes in the world.

How did your love affair with shoes begin?

It’s an innate love. I was around 8 years old and I remember looking at my mum wearing a pair of grey calf-skin pumps with a kitten heel, I just thought they were beautiful. I guess that was the exact time I started to realise I had a real passion for women’s shoes.

At the start of my career I could not see myself running my own company as I was aware that my passion and strength was in creating shoes and not in business management. Instead I started as a freelance women’s shoe designer and style advisor for several luxury couture houses, but I soon realised that I could not express my potential to its full as my natural artistic flair had to be reconciled with the requests of my patrons, who curbed my creative artistry by refusing to make shoes that were too complicated or too costly. So, when the opportunity arose in 1994, I took over a small shoemaking factory and started my own line, the shoes of my dreams.

Do you think that growing up in San Mauro Pascoli, so close to Fellini’s Rimini, and surrounded by the traditional Italian shoe-makers, has inspired the way you create shoes?

Probably yes, the fact that I grew up in a region of Italy which is renowned for its manufacturing know-how in this sector made the step from passion to reality easier, but I honestly believe such a step would have been an inevitability nonetheless. I have been working in the shoe industry ever since I was a boy and have always been interested in the technical and design aspects involved in the evolution of the product.

What would you say defines the Giuseppe Zanotti aesthetic?

My aesthetic is a combination of creativity, proportions, and quality. If you want to create unique designs, you need to stay true to your own aesthetic. You fail if you follow trends. All of my creations are the results of a long process with constant challenges along the way. I am a perfectionist, and I obsess over every detail. Though struggling, this process is the key to my success.

Is there a certain audience you cater for?

I want to create shoes for young, modern, and cool customers. My collections are for self-confident people who don’t follow rules and like to play with their look. Today, the market is huge and there is room for everyone. A successful designer should have a look that caters to a specific audience.

Where do you usually get the inspiration for your collections?

My approach is to constantly keep my eyes wide open to get inspired by the world around me. The best exercise for a designer is to listen to people, to absorb the energy of the street, and to transform it into an appealing and beautiful creation. With that said, none of my designs would exist without music. Music has always been part of my life and work. I spent my youth as a DJ, and music is in everything I do, it embodies the energy of creation. My design inspiration comes from everywhere, Milan, Paris, New York, Moscow, Dubai, Tokyo, from ancient civilisations to modern technologies, from the sea and the woodlands to the deserts, from TV, internet, cinema, newspapers, from my family and my children, from old photographs and past memories. In short from the million different information inputs I receive daily. That’s why I’m able to create different styles, I receive different inputs and I imagine women in different settings. Each collection is like making a movie.

Music has always been a big inspiration, can you share with us what music has inspired you in the past, and what music inspires you in the present?

Well, I run from hip-hop, contemporary music to funky and Philadelphia music of the 70’s. I enjoy playing with the sound of the past and the rhythm of the present. Just like in my shoes you find the traditional craftsmanship of the 50’s but redesigned in a contemporary way with a touch of irony and innovation. I enjoy listening to Kanye’s music but I also like Clash, Nirvana, Talkin Heads, I live for music.

You’ve expanded the world of Giuseppe Zanotti to include both accessories and RTW. How have you taken your design philosophy and adapted it to ready-to-wear?

I felt the desire to pay attention to other parts of the body and decorate them too. That’s why I’ve decided to venture into this new challenge. I want to offer my customer a complete range of products to satisfy all their needs. The ready-to-wear capsule collection has been an exciting challenge for me, as it has been so much fun and a rewarding experience. The creative process is very similar to accessories, especially because I have been working with leather for so long that I could easily design stylish leather clothes. With my clothing collection, I wanted to create something soft that fits the body perfectly. Something you can fold, put in a bag, and easily wear. Zippers, metal hardware and glam details are of course the fil rouge between my shoes and clothing collections.

Will we be seeing more lines added to the brand in the future?

Of course, I love shoes and will keep working hard to find the perfect shoe, yet I would also like to make other ‘objects’ to decorate the body like costume jewels, or even possibly precious jewels in the future. Now everything starts from the accessory; in the past it was secondary but now it may be better to see a woman with nice accessories and a pair of jeans, rather than a woman with a couture dress with ugly shoes.

What has changed the most in the two decades since you’ve been designing?

In twenty years the fashion industry has totally changed. When I started, the market was very formal and a little boring from my perspective. I have always had my own vision in mind and I wanted to put some energy and rock’n’roll inside my designs. In the end it’s all about finding your formula and following your own rules.

Can you share your thoughts on the Instagram and social media revolution?

Nowadays social media is deeply connected with our lives. I think we can’t help getting involved in this contemporary kind of social relationships. We can now be everywhere with everyone without the need to travel.

You’ve designed for many entertainers on stage, is there a secret to designing a shoe meant for the stage versus one for daily life?

Yes, listening to their specific needs. Artists usually need the shoes to be comfortable and resistant during their performances, so my goal here is to incorporate these aspects into the design process.

Is there one partnership that is particularly memorable?

I love celebrities from the world of music like Beyoncé, Rihanna, Alicia Keys, and Kanye West. They are truly icons, they have great talent and of course they work hard. To me, they don’t just represent music itself, they express art, entertainment, and research. This is why I find them to be a great source of inspiration for a designer.

Recently you have been collaborating with some super high-profile stars, what was the catalyst for creating these collections?

I truly believe that when great talents meet, they can create something magical. Creative people belong to the same world, they keep connecting and recognise each other. You can’t really explain how it works or begins, it’s just an invisible and empathic process. There is no specific criteria to start a collaboration, to me, it’s only a matter of good vibes.

How have you found working with musicians and superstars designing the perfect pair of shoes?

My own intent is to offer a product specifically created on the basis of the requested characteristics, it needs to be cool, comfortable and resistant. In any case, I always look for new challenges, just a few instants of happiness and then at work again!

Your designs now cross genders, do you prefer designing for women or men?

I don’t have any preference, when I have an inspiration and I create a shoe it does not have a sex, it’s just a beautiful idea. Androgyny has been the fil rouge of my latest collections. A biker boot, for instance, is both masculine and modern, but still sexy. Women are so seductive in men’s accessories and I find it so cool when a man wears a pair of embellished sneakers or loafers. I love to use zippers, hardware, buckles and crystals both in men’s and women’s collections to give an overall urban mood.

Do you approach the design and inspiration process differently?

Not really, I always have my own steps to follow. First thing is to write down what you want to create, and take some notes on what you like, gathering some pictures, references, stories or films, find the right colours, and then make a collection project, but the first step really needs to be a written analysis. Over the years a designer generates his or her own direction to follow, also following what he or she emotionally and instinctively feels.

What made you decide to design men’s shoes, and did you find anything challenging about the transition?

I’ve sort of been pushed by a couple of friends. Kanye West on one side helped me sweep away the prejudices I had towards the whole world of sneakers. I believed that world was all about a professional and technical product, and was hard to connect to the world of luxury. But that was just my blindness and somehow he helped me to open my eyes, widen my mind and understand the importance of creating a sneaker which somehow carried my DNA.

Technically speaking, what’s the biggest difference between designing for a man and for a woman, apart from the obvious heel height?

Men’s feet are bigger! I thought that men were pickier, and more difficult to satisfy. However, I actually realised that this is a great challenge, and by reinventing classic content you can achieve surprising results.

Sneakers or stilettos, which do you prefer designing?

It’s like choosing between blondes and brunettes, you just can’t decide!

How do you feel about the current boom in the market for luxury sneakers and streetwear?

Through twenty years of Giuseppe Zanotti, I have learned that the market is so unpredictable, you never know where it takes you. I started as a women’s shoe designer and I would have never imagined designing sneakers would have been such a successful endeavour. I honestly think that nobody expected this boom, but sneakers are now a huge part of the business and I have learned that my customers are very specific. They want a WOW factor and distinctive features from me. I don’t need to be in line with the other designers, I just need to be true to myself.

Are you a fan of sneakers yourself?

I personally love to wear sneakers. They are comfortable and easy, but also very irreverent and cool. The sneaker boom literally shook up fashion laws and etiquette. Now, you can easily match them with different outfits from a jumpsuit, to a pair of jeans, to a formal tuxedo.

Tell us about your new collection?

My FW17 collection takes a step back in time, journeying through 1920 to present day, and building bridges from the past to the contemporary. It’s about the great voyages, the discovery of an unexplored taste for the exotic, with influences from the Asian continent and a new artistic freedom of expression.

Why did you choose Bella Hadid and Miles McMillan to front the campaign?

I found them to perfectly embody what I wanted to express through my FW17 collection.

To you, what makes an iconic shoe?

Icons are about recognition, something you are able to identify and relate to a concept, period or style.

In your opinion, who is the most iconic designer?

One of my favourite designers is Thierry Mugler. He inspired me a lot at the very beginning of my career. For example, I have this beautiful thought in my mind of a Thierry Mugler corset mini dress from the 80’s to be worn with a sexy stiletto ankle bootie. I have always loved his ability to transform women’s bodies through his attires, giving them an almost alien beauty. I was really impressed with this and I will never forget it.

By Eliza Scarborough

Celebrate Les Parfums Louis Vuitton

Join some of the most inspirational women in the region to celebrate Louis Vuitton’s first anniversary of their fragrance range.

In 2016, the Maison Louis Vuitton launched their first women’s fragrances, a collection of seven creations signed by Maître Parfumeur Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. While unprecedented and firmly anchored in the House’s history, this olfactory path is not unchartered territory, it is informed by the trunk-maker’s legendary fondness for the vanity cases, travel flasks and fragrances stamped with Louis Vuitton that were created throughout the 20th century.

One year on, and for their first anniversary, Louis Vuitton celebrates this moment together with influential women of the region, and here they share their relationships with scents.

Insiders Guide: LOUVRE Abu Dhabi

Louvre Abu Dhabi

Throughout his remarkable design for Louvre Abu Dhabi, French architect Jean Nouvel was determined to celebrate Abu Dhabi’s location between land and sea, as well as its traditional Arab architecture.

Architecture

International architect Jean Nouvel is one of the most significant architects of the last half-century. Inspired by the architecture and traditions of the United Arab Emirates, Nouvel has conceived a remarkable home for Louvre Abu Dhabi. This extraordinary architectural feat is also a powerful symbol of the nation’s vision and achievements.

Louvre Abu Dhabi

A Floating Dome of Light and Shade

The centrepiece of Nouvel’s vision is a huge silvery dome that appears to float above the entire museum-city. Despite its apparent weightlessness, the dome in fact weighs approximately 7,500 tonnes, the same as the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Inspired by the cupola, a distinctive feature in Arabic architecture, Nouvel’s dome is a complex, geometric structure of 7,850 stars, repeated at various sizes and angles in eight different layers. As the sun passes above, its light filters through the perforations in the dome to create an inspiring effect within the museum, known as the ‘rain of light’. This ode to nature and the elements takes its inspiration from the palm trees of Abu Dhabi.

Louvre Abu Dhabi

A Museum-City in the Sea

Designed as a micro-city, Louvre Abu Dhabi is an archipelago out at sea. Dedicated areas entice and encourage a multitude of activities, especially contemplation. Just like wandering the narrow streets of an Arabian medina, visitors can explore 55 detached buildings. 23 of these buildings are devoted to galleries, which were inspired by the low-lying homes of the local region. Exterior facades overlooking both sea and the Abu Dhabi skyline encourage considered walks and conversation. Specially commissioned artworks by artists such as Jenny Holzer and Giuseppe Penone punctuate the exterior facades, sparking further emotional and intellectual encounters.

Louvre Abu Dhabi

An Environmental Micro-Climate

Beyond being beautiful, the dome of Louvre Abu Dhabi also serves a number of environmental purposes. It acts as a shading canopy to protect the outdoor plaza and the buildings below from the heat of the sun. In addition, the shade reduces the energy consumption of each of the covered buildings. The Louvre Abu Dhabi design is targeting silver LEED status, and has achieved a 3 Pearl Estidama Design Rating. The museum creates a comfortable microclimate with culturally inspired passive-design techniques including a concept based on traditional regional architecture, passive water and energy conservation techniques and highly efficient HVAC systems, lighting, and sanitary fittings.

LOUVRE Abu Dhabi opens November 11.

Introducing Louis Vuitton’s Dazzling Conquêtes Collection

Reflecting the power of style in honour of the Louis Vuitton Woman.

Louis Vuitton’s new High Jewellery collection pays homage to a conquering, self-assured, seductive woman full of independence. Her conquests come to life in the Maison’s two emblematic signature motifs, the Monogram flower and the V, brought together for the first time in one collection. The two symbols fuse to create brand new designs, with exceptional gemstones at the heart.

Conquêtes is a collection boasting three dazzling necklaces and some sixty pieces of jewellery. The first necklace takes from the language of heraldic devices, interweaving, and diffracting the two motifs to evoke a contemporary family crest coat of arms. At the centre of this masterpiece a gemstone gleams, symbolising power, with a 37.07 carat imperial topaz initiating a link between the V and the diamond flower. Its unique orange and pink hues are heightened and complemented by pastel tones in the opals.

More than ever before it, this collection highlights the breadth of expertise exhibited in Louis Vuitton’s workshops. The highly complex chain designs give full expression to the jeweller’s virtuosity. Baguette-cut diamonds are hewn to perfectly fit their setting and follow every curve of the design, drawing the eye to the Maison’s gems of predilection, Paraiba tourmalines, mandarin garnets, tsavorite garnets, opals, and imperial topazes, to name but a few. The Conquêtes collection picks up where the previous collections left off and follows their explorations, particularly those of Acte V and Blossom.

Still Life Photography: Philippe Lacombe
Savoir Faire: Laziz Hamani

Trending: Double Up On Accessories

Key Fall 2017 accessory trend us all about co-ordinating to make twice the statement.

White and black tweed coat with shorts, Rocket Minaudiere, Sparkling silver boots with black patent leather toe caps

ALL CHANEL

LEFT IMAGE: Cut out wool midi skirt, Velvet boots, Kan IF bag. ALL FENDI

RIGHT IMAGE: Sheer dress, Loyalty leather opera gloves, Embroidered ankle boots, Palazzo Empire bag. ALL VERSACE

LEFT IMAGE: Floral organdy jacquard and lace dress, GG Marmont animal studs leather belt bag, Flowers intarsia leather boot. ALL GUCCI

RIGHT IMAGE: Anja 100 Black Velvet and Clear Crystal Pump Roller stilettos, Love Box Bag in Black leather. ALL SAINT LAURENT

LEFT IMAGE: Top, Pants, ‘J’Adior’ strap, ‘Dioraddict’ Square Bag, Boots. ALL DIOR

RIGHT IMAGE: Niki 105 thigh-high boot with all-over embroidered white crystals, Kate Toy bag in black and blue python. ALL SAINT LAURENT

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough

Photographer: Henry Pascual

Model: Amy Williams

Location: La Ville Hotel and Suites

Exclusive Interview with Mr Porter’s Toby Bateman

Managing Director of online retail powerhouse Mr Porter Toby Bateman, on the secret to selling men’s style.

Mr Porter was originally launched in 2011 as a brother site to the enormously successful women’s fashion and accessories retailer Net-A-Porter. The invention of Natalie Massenet, a fashion editor turned retail prophet, the Porter brands sought to bring the luxury shopping experience to computer screens. And that starts with stocking the things modern, stylish guys actually want to unbox.

This is where Managing Director Toby Bateman fits in, leading the business across all departments, including marketing, buying, personal shopping, tech and editorial. Along with his team of buyers, he rounds up a mix of clothing, shoes, and accessories, from an ever-growing curated list of on-trend brands, that best reflect the needs of their customer.

Bateman joined Mr Porter as Buying Director in late 2010, following positions at House of Fraser, Selfridges, and Harvey Nichols, and was responsible for growth from 80 brands at launch to over 350 in 2015, when he was promoted to Managing Director.

This tally of brands has continued to grow, together with the site’s success, attracting more customers year over year. It’s benefitted from being able to evolve, a hallmark of any worthwhile store, together with continuing to present niche products, and fusing commerce with easily digestible content.

Here we talk to the man who has been behind making luxury menswear available with a few clicks, to learn about how he attracts the fashionable crowd, and tailor’s Mr Porter’s identity for a worldwide market.

What brought you into the world of fashion?

I always wanted to work in a business that I knew I was passionate about, and one that would remain so and wouldn’t simply be a 9-5 office job. I began my career on the UK high street where I started off working on own-label brands and that is where I really learnt my trade. After that, I moved onto larger department stores before joining MR PORTER as Buying Director.

How did your career as a commercial department store buyer help with your approach at MR PORTER?

My department store career was invaluable because it taught me how bricks and mortar stores operated, and how you should always remember to pick the best quality product, be able to present it in an interesting way, and offer your customers the best level of service. These are key learnings which I’m pleased to say we are able to offer our customers of today on MR PORTER.

What sets MR PORTER apart from other retail destinations, and gives it an edge?

Where MR PORTER leads is our natural blend of content and commerce that is rolled out in a global manner and to a global audience. We have been forerunners in this space, particularly in menswear, since we launched in 2011. With this philosophy in mind, we consciously decided that we didn’t want to alienate any man, whatever his age or provenance, and therefore positioned MR PORTER as a global style destination, making sure our focus was more than just fashion. Our various channels of content provide diverse context into the world of MR PORTER, including our weekly online magazine The Journal which is created entirely by us using only our own commissioned imagery and writing, and in April 2016, we were the first retailer to launch daily content with The Daily, making it easier to respond to current affairs, style news feeds, food, and travel stories, three times a day. To round-out our content platforms, we have our bi-monthly printed MR PORTER Post, which is our tangible medium that can be found in airport lounges and cafes around the globe. Regarding our product offering, we very much look at collaborating with designers we stock on a series of exclusive capsule collections, approximately 40 a year, which both inspires the stories we create and provides a point of differentiation when shopping with us. We are also the Global online exclusive retailer for many of the brands we carry, and we stock well-over 400 of the best in men’s and luxury lifestyle brands from around the world, a long way from the 80 we originally launched with!

Can you share with us how the retail experience for men is tailored differently to women?

We understand that men sometimes find shopping in general a totally confusing and unenjoyable experience, and our mission is to remove the stress and offer advice in an anonymous environment. We want to make sure our content and product descriptions provide advice which talks to real men, rather than the trend lead products which are pushed within the women’s sector of the market, often on models.

How important was it to get the brand identity of MR PORTER right from the outset?

It was very important to us. We set ourselves strict guidelines as to what type of product we were selecting, and the tone of voice our editorial had. These principles and values have very much stayed the same as to what they were when we launched six years ago.

Has the MR PORTER man changed since the site was launched in 2011?

Our customers are the same, but their approach to dressing has changed in the past six years for sure. Dress codes have continued to be broken and now good advice is even more essential to help our customers navigate the weekly and seasonal sartorial challenges. In this respect, I think that men have also become braver with their choices, wearing more colour and pattern, and also a lot more open to trying new brands.

Has the concept of the site changed considerably at the same time, especially with the changes in online shopping, and fast growth of social media?

MR PORTER is still the same site, and I think recognisable as such, but nuances have changed, such as now having Daily content, more frequent ‘What’s New’ uploads, having a more user-friendly App and so forth. When we started, we said ‘shall we employ someone to manage our Facebook and Twitter feeds?’ like it was an extravagant thought, and now of course social media is such a huge part of our communication strategy across all the channels.

Why do you think there are still so few premium online menswear retailers? Have you noticed this change since MR PORTER was created?

I think that there are certainly more than there were six years ago. However, the women’s sites still tend to be more prevalent and greater in number which simply reflects the different sizes of the market.

Tell us about the growth of the number of brands featured on MR PORTER, and how you ensure that you remain exclusive?

We launched the business with around 80 luxury brands, and in our second season we took that to around 140 brands, building out our contemporary and designer offerings. We now have well-over 400 brands, which despite the number sounding huge, it has felt quite organic, and we’ve had extraordinary growth in new category development such as Fine Watches, Sport, Grooming, Home, etc.

How do you source new labels?

Our rule at MR PORTER is that new brands cannot replicate the role of an existing one. It sounds rather obvious, but actually I believe that for example in womenswear you can have a lot of duplication in terms of aesthetic and price point which women are happy with, and perhaps even enjoy more choice, but for men, we prefer less choice. That in itself is a pretty good summary of what we do for our customers, we make their choices for them and present a shortlist of carefully curated products for them to choose from.

What is key to avoiding being obviously trendy, while attracting the fashionable crowd?

The mood of our editorial content is the key to this. We ensure it is pitched in a very stylish and grown up way whilst having a very contemporary feel. Of course, we stock what are deemed to be ‘high end fashion’ brands, but again we always try to put our own MR PORTER stylish slant on the edit and the styling.

Do men tend to be particularly loyal to brands?

Yes and no. Online shopping favours brand loyalty because I, for example, can re-order the same blue shirt again and again and that suits me well. But at the same time, sites like MR PORTER have introduced a lot of people to brands they simply wouldn’t get to discover otherwise, so the reverse rule also applies and we see men trying new things they wouldn’t have necessarily chosen.

What was behind your decision to launch an own brand label?

First and foremost, we are product people, and for a long time we would sit down and say, ‘you know that shirt from such and such, I love it, but I wish the collar was a bit smaller,’ or, ‘why did those trousers get discontinued?’. Then it occurred to us that we could solve these problems by doing it ourselves. We have created a year-round collection of future classics and essential wardrobe staples which we think all men should own in their wardrobe, which can be paired with exclusive and limited-edition capsules which are seasonally driven.

Are there any new premieres that you can share, and which brands should we be looking out for on the site?

Salle Privée is new to us for AW17, and is a particular favourite. Each piece is expertly tailored and made from quality materials.

What’s one item of clothing that every man should own?

I could easily name around 20 essential items that every man should own in their wardrobe, so picking one is quite tricky, but if I had to say one, it would be a navy blue suit.

Targeting men worldwide, where do you see the best-dressed men?

Japan, easily.

In terms of sales, where are your biggest markets and have there been any surprises?

Our core markets are the US and UK, but we have seen strong and significant growth in APAC countries over the past couple of years along with the Middle East region.

Do you see yourself tailoring your identity to specific regions?

To a degree yes, whilst the site content and product offer is the same globally, we have separate communication strategies and separate marketing and media partners according to regions, so we can speak to people in Australia and the Middle East about swim shorts and t-shirts at the same time we are speaking to people in the UK about coats and sweaters.

One of your new categories, fine watches, has been growing and taking on more premium brands, what do you think is the reason for this growth?

The fine watch industry has been slower to adopt an online strategy, but in the past year or two, this has changed and these brands have realised that MR PORTER can be a good retail and communications partner at the same time, whilst being able to tap into a customer base that they perhaps hadn’t done previously. In the world of online, MR PORTER sets the benchmark for luxury fashion in terms of photography, information, advice, and service, and we have set out to achieve the same benchmark in fine watches which is incredibly important to these brands in order to gain their trust to become authorised dealers of their products. So much so that we have been lucky enough to launch exclusive watches with the likes of Ressence who designed a MR PORTER watch, and the launch of the Tag Heuer x Kingsman Connected watch which we released in July in anticipation of the seventh collection of Kingsman, in collaboration with Kingsman: The Golden Circle.

Are you finding that consumers are increasingly comfortable with buying high-end, luxury items such as watches online? And how important are watches to your product line up?

I believe that customers want the product they want, when they want it, and where they want it, with convenience being the key to their shopping habits. With a fine watch being such a considered purchase, content becomes increasingly more important for men to make that next step. Whether it’s the history behind a brand, the style associated with a brand, what’s inside the watch, or how a brand and watch can fit into your lifestyle, men seem to demand and rely on these elements to purchase a watch.

Is this a direction where we will see more expansion?

Watch this space, pun intended! We have several more exciting launches coming up between now and the end of the year, with more already lined up for 2018.

What is your opinion of how the internet is influencing consumer spending on watches?

We recently surveyed a lot of our existing and prospective customers on the fine watch category and the primary finding from those surveyed was that they all ‘researched online’ before making a fine watch purchase.

And finally, what is most important rule in menswear retail?

The key is to have the best, and most carefully considered product available for your customers.

By Eliza Scarborough

Best Honey Infused Skincare Products

Honey’s often thought of as a healthier sweetener, but you might be surprised to learn that this ingredient has plenty of skin and hair benefits too.

Made by the alchemy of bees collecting nectar, pollen, and resins from flowers, honey can help moisturise, fight aging, and fight bacteria. Abundant in antioxidants and boasting seriously powerful antibacterial properties, it’s been used in Ayurvedic medicine for over 4,000 years to treat everything from aches and pains to sickness, and when it comes to the world of beauty, the sweet stuff is incredible for your skin as it binds moisture and neutralises cell-damaging free radicals.

Not only is it a natural humectant, which means it attracts moisture, but it’s also a powerful healer and loaded with nutrients that help with everything from giving you luscious locks to fighting off fine lines and wrinkles. Fortunately, there is a plethora of skincare and beauty products infused with this natural wonder product, and we have handpicked the best available.

By Eliza Scarborough

Instagram’s Most Followed Models

We have rounded up the most followed models on Instagram. Did your favourite make the cut?

With Instagram increasingly, and controversially, becoming even more instrumental to a model’s rise in the fashion world this year, it’s unsurprising that some of the most popular runway stars have garnered an impressive following.

Kendall Jenner storms ahead taking the top spot, even after her recent Instagram ‘detox’ last year, with her fellow model bff’s following behind. Filling our feeds with exclusive backstage snaps, sun-kissed selfies, inspiring workouts, and a look behind the scenes at their incredible lifestyles, these are the top Insta-worthy models.

By Eliza Scarborough

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Eat Like a Fashion Model

SHOOT: Bulgari’s Serpenti Forever Bags by Nicholas Kirkwood

Bulgari ’s iconic Serpenti Forever bags, with their signature enameled snake-head clasp, are reinterpreted through the visionary eyes of shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood, globally renowned for his irreverently feminine shoe designs.

Bulgari forever bag by nicolas kirkwood aeworld.com online

This collaboration makes sense artistically because both Bulgari and Nicholas Kirkwood draw their inspiration from innovation, architectural design, and graphic forms. They are both bold, unconventional, and daring in their creativity.

“I created the chevron patterns using rubberised studs which have faceted ends that reminded me of diamond settings and some of the spectacular gemstones I had seen in the Bulgari High Jewellery atelier in Rome.”- Nicholas Kirkwood

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Henry Pascual

Maison Louis Vuitton Vendôme

Travel goods, fashion and jewellery have been part of Place Vendôme and its neighbourhood for over 300 years, and it was in these streets that Louis Vuitton learned his craft and where he founded his first store in 1854.

This venue is very symbolic for Louis Vuitton as the Place Vendôme, just like the Château of Versailles, is one of the most beautiful examples of French artistry of the 17th-century. Under the impulse of Louis XIV and Jean-Baptiste Colbert, the Château of Versailles became the cradle of French luxury and a showcase for French craftsmanship and savoir-faire around the world. Both designed and built by architect Jules Hardouin-Mansart, Place Vendôme and Versailles share a heritage that today remains important to Louis Vuitton.

Chaumet A Feast of High Jewellery

With Chaumet est une Fête, the Maison pays tribute to the Parisian taste for an alchemy that conjures enchanted occasions, sparkling guests, an exceptional location, a stirring tempo, and the elegance of a jewellery parure.

The new High Jewellery collection evokes these instants of rhyme and radiance that inspire emotion and beauty. A Parisian Maison, Chaumet is inspired by four places beyond its borders, emblematic music venues that, akin to Paris, are lauded all over the world. Jewellery virtuosity captures the magic and the vibrations of this timeless symphony to adorn women with light and majesty.

Pastorale Anglaise

Valses d’Hiver

In honour of the mythical Glyndebourne, Pastorale Anglaise offers a breath of fresh air and British nonchalance with jewels of the utmost refinement in a bucolic setting. A reinterpretation of the Scottish tartan motif, the Pastorale Anglaise jewellery set takes inspiration from the Glyndebourne festival, with a fanciful twist.

Aria Passionata calls upon the repertoire of the great Italian operas of Milan’s La Scala to inflame the passions of queens of the night with incandescent red. Garnets, rubies, and tourmalines sparkle with scarlet hues to illuminate the beauty of women. The Metropolitan Opera of New York, imbued with the sleek elegance of the Upper West Side, exalts its great musical moments with Rhapsodie Transatlantique’s palette of soft colours. A symphony of changing colours combines diamonds, Umba garnets, pink tourmalines, sapphires, violet, Padparadsha and yellow-green sapphires, morganites, tanzanites, imperial topazes, champagne, and cognac diamonds to create an effect as arresting as the final bouquet of celebration fireworks.

At the Vienna Opera, Valses d’Hiver is an ode to the lightness of Strauss’ waltzes, embodied by the purest whirl of grace and wonder. The whirl of pearls and diamonds of the Valses d’Hiver creations evokes the movement of flounces and laces twirling to the rhythm of vivacious dance steps.

Rhapsodie Translatlantique

Jewellery Editorial Shoot with Cactus de Cartier

Discover all things radiant from Cartier and the new Cactus de Cartier collection. The exquisitely prickly, flower unlike any other shines bright in our October Issue dedicated to fine jewellery and more.

Pink Gold and Diamond Earrings, Selection of Pink Gold and Diamond Rings. All Cactus de Cartier

LEFT IMAGE: Middle East Exclusive Yellow gold, Sannan Skarn, and Diamond Necklace, Middle East Exclusive Yellow gold, Sannan Skarn, and Diamond Bracelet, Middle East Exclusive Yellow gold, Sannan Skarn, and Diamond Ring RIRIGHT IMAGE: Cactus de Cartier Pink Gold, Spinel, and Diamond Earrings All Cactus de Cartier

LEFT IMAGE: Pink Gold and Diamond Earrings, Pink Gold and Diamond Necklace RIGHT IMAGE: Stack of Pink Gold, White Gold, and Yellow Gold Wedding Bands with Diamonds, Selection of Yellow Gold and Diamond Rings All Cactus de Cartier

Pink Gold, Spinel, and Diamond Earrings, Pink Gold, Spinel, and Diamond Necklace, Pink Gold, Spinel, and Diamond Ring, Selection of Pink Gold and Diamond Rings. All Cactus de Cartier

Fashion Director: Eliza Scarborough
Photographer: Vivienne Balla at MMG
Hair and Make-up: Bianca Hartkopf at MMG
Model: Cami R at Wilhelmina
Location: Al Barari
All Clothing: BySymphony

On-our-Radar: Stylish Super Siblings

Talk about genetically gifted, these fashionable families clearly have style in their blood.

From the Jacksons to the Olsen twins, savvy Millennials have taken note that exploiting family ties means big business. The trend started with Kylie and Kendall and the Hadid sisters, so look out for the next generation of power siblings breaking through.

Left to right: Starlie Cheyenne, Lucky Blue, Daisy Clementine, and Pyper America Smith

It’s been a long time since a male model has caused such a furore as Lucky Blue Smith. The peroxide blonde clothes hanger has millions of followers watching his every post, and there is a whole lot more Smith where he came from. Sister’s Pyper America, Starlie Cheyenne, and Daisy Clementine have a million Instagram followers between them, and if the four of them being photographed together by Hedi Slimane for Vogue Homme Japan wasn’t enough, they also have their own band, The Atomics.

Left to right: May and Ruth Bell

Twins May and Ruth Bell are current belles of the fashion ball. Best known for their Mario Testino shot Burberry campaign, their first job was for i-D Magazine, before Topshop shortly followed. Facially, they are very alike, although they are now very easy to tell apart thanks to Ruth’s hairstyle which was shorn off for the Alexander McQueen AW15 campaign. With Instagram handles @maynotruth and @ruthnotmay, the girls certainly have their own individual interests and looks, but as a pair they are a fashion force.

Left to right: Taylor, Chase, Logan and Mackinley Hill

Taylor is a Victoria’s Secret Angel, her brother Chase and sister Mackinley are also signed with IMG models, while older brother Logan is a photographer. Together they have a YouTube channel, The Hill Sisters and Chase, where they offer beauty, fashion, and lifestyle tips.

Left to right: Sama and Haya Abu Khadra

These jet-setting twins are Saudi-born Palestinians, but they now live in sunny Southern California. In addition to sharing a joint Instagram account, where they document their fashionable escapades, the identical twins also DJ together.

Left to Right: Dree Hemingway and Langley Fox

Dree has built a cool-credible reputation as an actress and model, with recent work including roles in two films that premiered at Tribeca Film Festival. Younger sister Langley, a freelance artist who has previously been commissioned by Louis Vuitton, is less well known but has fronted campaigns for Just Cavalli and Tiffany & Co, with the latter seeing the sisters join forces.

Left to right: Jaden and Willow Smith

Is there anything the Smith kids can’t do? Besides being actors, singers, and artists, Jaden fronted a Louis Vuitton campaign and a womenswear one at that, because he doesn’t ‘see gender when it comes to clothing’, while Willow was named a Chanel ambassador.

Left to right: Kaia and Presley Gerber

You would be forgiven for mistaking Kaia Gerber for her supermodel mum Cindy Crawford. Both she and her brother Presley regularly appear in magazines and photoshoots together, including CR Fashion Book and US Vogue. Recently Kaia won breakthrough model of the year, while Presley has walked for Moschino and Dolce and Gabbana.

By Eliza Scarborough

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Most Followed Models on Instagram

Exclusive Interview with Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin

We get to know the man behind one of the most successful jewellery brands, Jean-Christophe Babin as he shares exciting new ventures for the house.

President and CEO of TAG Heuer for 13 years before arriving at Bulgari in 2013, CEO Babin brought plenty of watch brand leadership with him. He nevertheless had to adjust to the complexity of the Bulgari brand as it comprises five different businesses, jewellery, watchmaking, fragrances and cosmetics, accessories, and luxury hotels.

Following the Festa celebrations, and after the closing of the Baselworld 2017 show, Jean-Christophe invites us into the world of Bulgari, unveiling the Roman house’s latest creations, while focusing on two symbolic collections, Serpenti and Octo. Here, he speaks about Bulgari’s take on being based in Italy, their communication strategy, and their main goals for being number one in the industry.

The Festa collection celebrates joy and energy, can you share with us your favourite piece among the collection, and why?

From a design point of view, I may surprise you as I love the Octo design, which is a blue and white necklace. This balloon cut helped us revisit a cabochon cut from the past, which eventually led us to arrive at a new cut of cabochon, which will probably take us further in the years to come. With this balloon cabochon, we have created a new aesthetic that is probably very contemporary and will add a lot to the cabochon cut.

Tell us, where is Bulgari today?

The beauty of the Festa collection is that it took us back to basics, the celebration of childhood and the countryside. It may seem unexpected, but when you look closer, it is somewhat quite logical. For instance, when you look at the Olive and Ice Cream Necklace you may find it surprising, but Bulgari’s perspective to the reshaping of colourful gems and the way to glorify them, I think is a major creative step.

We had a glimpse at the timepieces for men, and our favourite would be the one and only Monete watch-piece that was sold instantly. What is the future of your watchmaking for both men and women?

Yes, our Monete design is a combination of the Octo shape designed with the artistic coins of yore from the 3rd century A.D. The movement is extremely sophisticated, and it presents our history. In terms of our watchmaking for the future, if it is for men, for sure it will be very much written throughout the Octo design, as the more we create the more we find that it can express itself in a very elegant and contemporary way. As for women, obviously the journey has been extraordinary with Serpenti and with Lucea which we hope to continue. Serpenti was born into its new expression in 2010, while Lucea was created in 2014, so both are considered quite young. So, I think that our future will be very much about those two lines.

This year is obviously a strong year for Bulgari, because on all fronts you presented very successful lines, especially with accessories. What is coming down the line for Bulgari next?

What is key for the brand is continuity and reinvention, and we will of course continue with that in mind. You need to be current, which we achieved through the balloon cabochon, which is a reinvention of the cabochon, together with the Serpenti which we reinvented without replacing any of the designs. Therefore, the future for us is not to only introduce new codes, but to occasionally further elaborate on existing lines. I think very much of what you see today is current and has a lot of edge, however the key is to find the right way to elaborate them in a very daring way, including the codes, like what we are trying to do with the balloon cut, which is the very first step in a long journey that is only just starting. So, everything you see today, who knows what it will give birth to, but for sure it will be very much about colours, daringness and about breaking new grounds. Like when we introduced Ice Cream, it was very inspiring and it shows that with whatever objects there are surrounding us, if you are creative then you can turn anything into a timeless piece of jewellery. This brings an era of a new beginning, where the source of inspiration will be much more open than ever before.

We know that your focus is to be in places where the craftsmanship is most trusted and known, but why did you choose to be located in Valenza specifically?

A simple reason is that we used to be there, just in a different location nearby, so if we moved elsewhere we would have probably lost fifty percent of our people, and not to mention that craftsmen are difficult to find alone. Also, the region itself being in Italy is the most famous place for the art of goldsmithing and jewellery making, and would naturally attract people rather than a region where there is no traditional history in terms of goldsmithing.

You mentioned earlier about being ‘Made in Italy’, these days, how relevant do you find that?

You are right, the world today is globalising, we tend to grow and adapt to new technologies and different social networks, so since everything is converging and at the same time people more than ever are being racial about their own roots, identity and the authenticity, so this applies to us humans and it can be extreme when it comes to political movements. However, nowadays more than ever people are not only demanding on the quality of luxury goods, but also the integrity. The authenticity and way you craft your goods, together with where you craft them is an important argument, so in that context ‘Made in Italy’ means a lot because of its links to arts, manufacture, and architecture.

In 2017, what are the main messages that you are aiming to share?

Across the board with our watches, jewellery, and accessories, I think people will be surprised by the boldness. Bulgari strictly has been a brand that is full of volumes and daringness, and you will see with everything that is being launched this year that we are blowing up the dimensions. We truly standout not as just great jewellers, but as magnificent jewellers who are constantly sourcing inspiration from all around world.

Your aim is to be number one, so what are the main pillar steps you are working on to achieve this goal?

I think the road map is not necessarily important than to focus on ourselves! Out of our expertise, DNA, and global inspiration, what can we push further to make better? We can be more desirable and irresistible, so that naturally sets the road we follow, where we plan the dreams and desire for our customer. In all, at Bulgari we focus on how to create more to this dream of desire, but not only with the product and the communication in mind, but also the way we dress millennials, the passion we create to other generations to buy creative products with a lot of value. Again, we try to focus on being more edgy without falling into fashion.

With that said, there are so many brands that are falling into the trap of really satisfying and attracting millennials, but at the same time they are forgetting about the original loyal customers. How thin is the line on really satisfying both?

In terms of retail, one needs to be very welcoming and nurturing on the inside and to create traffic on the outside. So here at Bulgari we try to use different windows with purpose, which is different than the rest. Likewise, if you look at the communication process, digitally and socially we try to find where is the edge between speaking about Bella Hadid versus Suki Waterhouse. It is all very much subjective, really it is about testing, surveying, measuring, and you must be open-minded to find the balance. We are trying to pioneer, and this is our way to try to tackle this challenge.

Shifting to our favourite line the Serpenti, what can we look forward to seeing this year?

This line is still very new for clients, which makes the creativity process boundless. We will add new collections to the Serpenti in another expression, while at the same time we will try to intensify the credibility.

In your own terms, who would say is the Serpenti woman?

For sure she is a bold and independent woman who is self-standing, as the sign itself is very polarising and the symbol conveys civilisation and culture. It is a personal statement for someone who understands its sign.

What are the challenges you face at Bulgari today?

Most importantly it is to balance the paradox between innovation on one side and timelessness on the other. In the jewellery business, we need to keep in mind the craftiness of the jewel and not only the price, because people tend to cherish the timelessness of the piece rather than the durability. So again, you need to find the balance between something that is nurturing, but to be creative enough without deceiving it, and enough for people to be fascinated by the sign. We are always aware to serve in between the timelessness dimension and innovation dimension which are somehow opposite, to avoid falling into repetition of something and not shifting towards fashion, which will probably damage the brand.

What is the lesson that you always convey to your team?

Very simple, never give up!

Words: Lara Mansour Sawaya