Alaïa’s Winter Spring 2027 collection places dialogue at the heart of the Maison, exploring its relationships with women, craftsmanship, history and the passage of time.
Presented during Paris Fashion Week, the collection draws on these exchanges to examine the connection between the body and clothing, while continuing the house’s longstanding focus on form, movement and savoir-faire.
The dialogue with women remains central. Silhouettes are designed to amplify the figure, celebrating the body through a sense of freedom, ease and bold expression. The collection explores the relationship between cloth and skin, as well as between form and function, with garments wrapping around the body and revealing it in carefully considered ways. The curved screens used in the scenography echoed these feminine forms, creating an environment that reflected the collection’s emphasis on identity and shape.
Time is represented through the lemniscate, or infinity symbol, whose figure of eight suggests a sense of eternity without beginning or end. The motif is translated into garments through wrapping and revealing gestures, while also representing a notion of timelessness that remains fundamental to Alaïa.
The collection also enters into dialogue with Azzedine Alaïa and the Maison’s history. References to past house codes appear through seams, silhouettes, colour and working methodologies, creating a continuum between the immediate and distant past and the future. Rather than serving as overt reproductions of archival designs, these foundational gestures are described as almost invisible presences, continuing to shape the house’s approach.
Craft is similarly central to the collection. The emphasis on making is expressed through softness, draping and twisted jersey, while leather and knitted pleats introduce texture and movement across surfaces. Jewellery and the sharply pointed vamp of the shoes extend the same pursuit of excellence across different métiers, reflecting the Maison’s dialogue with its artisans and their savoir-faire.
The collection’s final theme is with the present and the concept of time. American artist Julian Klincewicz created video installations specifically for the show, combining recorded and real-time imagery to offer a multifaceted view of Alaïa women. Moving figures passed through a standing crowd, their movement altered by the surrounding environment and creating another physical exchange between the clothes, their wearers and the audience. The result is a collection concerned with the tension between the fleeting and the enduring: passing bodies and moving images set against clothes conceived to last.
