It’s still only February but this year has already seen so many changes and surprises happening in the fashion industry. One of the most highly anticipated of those was Daniel Lee’s first collection for Burberry after the former Bottega Veneta Creative Director was revealed as Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer late last year.
On a cold winter’s night in South Kensington, London, fashion experts, celebrities and friends of the brand gathered for the reveal of the designer’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection for the British Fashion House.
Rumours had already been circulating of what the collection might divulge ae a new logo and Burberry font was revealed on the brand’s digital platforms earlier this month, with a nod to the brand’s heritage, and Daniel’s own Britishness, there were sure signs that this would be a celebration of the brand’s DNA and its connection to the United Kingdom.
Set against a black backdrop the Fall/Winter 2023 collection for men and women celebrated the fundamentals and key icons of the brand. This was surely a celebration of “Britishness” as well as a celebration of the iconic elements that make Burberry what it is. The classic check print was blown up and presented in bold colours across tailoring, blanket coats and knits, alongside an evolution of the Equestrian Knight Design (EKD).
Lee’s love for colour is reiterated through his choice of royal blue, yellow and green, combined with rich purples, bold red and pink, reinterpreted and paired together in a modern way.
In outerwear, the classic Burberry trench coat made a return to the runway, this time oversized with faux fur-trimmed lapels, while the car coat was deconstructed, and the duffle and aviator exaggerated with softer silhouettes.
The connection to the UK was reinforced by pleated tartan-inspired kilts over trousers, chunky Aran and argyle jumpers and British motifs, including the English rose.
In accessories, bags draw on the outdoor aesthetic that Burberry is known for, and saddle bags and satchels in sturdy colours and fabrics carry an initial ‘b’ that also forms its fastening. Details are considered and functional.
Casual shoe styles draw on the functionality of the brand, from heritage-inspired equestrian boots to rubber rain boots. Sneakers are amplified, whilst a signature square shape frames sandals, mules and pumps in iterations that include cosy faux fur and shearling.
The show not surprisingly, attracted an A-list audience with celebrity guests including Baz Luhrmann, Bianca Jagger, Bright, Jason Statham, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Naomi Campbell, Jodie Comer, Stormzy and many more.
This colourful interpretation of the brand’s DNA opens an exciting new chapter for the House and a successful debut for Daniel Lee.