Bertrand Guyon presents a trailblazing tribute at Schiaparelli to kick off couture week in Paris, with a collection which sought to deliver innovative designs.
The Frenchman, who was charged with breathing new life into the revived label in 2015, was keen to ensure founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s reputation as a trailblazer was kept firmly intact as he unveiled cobweb lace gowns and beetle embroidered tailoring in homage to the late designer’s 1938 pagan collection. Unusual fabrics, such as shredded plastic shopping bags interwoven with silk, showcased the house’s affection for celebrating the more avant-garde side of couture.
Guyon also sent out a love letter to her signature shade of shocking pink in the form of one show-stopping tulle gown which featured a heart shaped bodice. But while much of the collection was devoted to the house’s heritage, Guyon also collaborated with interior designer Lucie de la Falaise to present the Selene, Soteria and Selkie bags.
Fusing their background and influences of haute couture savoir-faire, natural and raw materials, precious craftsmanship, bohemian spirit, effortless allure, the Schiaparelli symbols, a nod to Bloomsbury and a pagan mythology, the accessory becomes the key piece of the season.
This ultimate couture tote braids raffia and strips of plastic bags embellished with wood and mother of pearl in three versions. The Selena shows a black sun, the Soteria a drift wood handle nailed with mother-of-pearl, and the Selkie an allegoric mask.
Haute Couture SS18: Dior