The Making of the Dior Saddle Bag

Lindsay Judge   |   23 - 09 - 2019

The iconic saddle bag, which was first designed in 1999 gets a new look for autumn/winter 2019.


In a design that mirrors its debut style in denim in 2000, Maria Grazia Chiuri has created a stylish denim edition for autumn/winter 2019-20. The denim edition is both modern and timeless as it brings this classic accessory in line with today’s trends.


From the initial sketch to the meticulous choosing of the perfect shade and textured denim, to completing the piece with the classic Christian Dior logo, the new ‘It’ bag was conceived through careful design and forward-thinking style.




“I wanted it larger and more robust, but also very colourful, embroidered or with beaded fringe because, like a chameleon, it adapts to all situations,” Maria Grazia Chiuri said of her re-design of this timeless classic.


One of the specific things that sets it apart is that it is the only bag from the house that requires two separate oak wood forms to create its highly distinctive curves which recall those of a riding saddle.


After having selected the best red supple calf leather, with a slightly glossy finish, Marco, a leather expert with forty-three years experience, cuts out the bag’s eleven elements using an especially sharp blade.



Then another craftsman places the two parts that comprise the flap on a form and shapes the material with his hands, aided by a round-headed hammer to create the necessary undulation.


Next, the front and back panels are placed on a second wooden form. There, the sides and base of the bag will be mounted and sewn to the two central parts. The craftsman works the leather to create the design’s two contoured gussets. Like a couture signature, the words “Christian Dior Paris” are heat-embossed with a gold ribbon on the inside pocket.



The ensemble is then skilfully and precisely stitched with a sewing machine.


With the bag assembled, the metal pieces embellishing it are added: the “D” is sewn on the leather tab at the front, and the two “CD” buckles are set in place on the sides just before where the strap will be placed, specially conceived for optimal comfort, whether worn on the shoulder or carried in the hand.


These two attachments allow for the addition of a wide canvas strap decorated with metal medallions in order to personalize an outfit. In the final step, the Saddle is meticulously quality controlled down to the tiniest detail.