The makeup magnate on how she created her global beauty empire, and what she defines as beautiful.
Before Brown’s line was available worldwide, worth over a billion dollars and had changed the beauty landscape to define simple, modern glamour, she began her career as a makeup artist. After gaining a degree in theatrical makeup from Emerson College in Boston, Bobbi had enough money for six months of rent, courtesy of a graduation gift from her father, and decided that would be enough time to test the waters in New York. In a short time, she made her way up the ladder to work with photographers including Bruce Weber and Arthur Elgort, who responded to her now signature modern-but-natural look.
The brand started with an edited collection of 10 lipsticks, 25 years ago. From salmon to beige and brown, the flattering shades stood out from the bright, garish lipsticks that were the trend of the 80s and the response was incredible. Four years later, in 1995, Estée Lauder stepped in, and with every product launch thereafter, it has been Bobbi’s mission to deliver a range of makeup colours and products that work for all skin tones, as well as meeting the needs of women around the world.
Bobbi Brown (the person) is as refreshingly real as her brand. She is an advocate for her easy to use eponymous brand, applying her own makeup in five minutes during the car trip to work. Once at Bobbi Brown HQ, where the kitchens are stocked with fresh fruit, there is an on-site manicurist, and employees can bring their dogs to work.
Bobbi is launching the Be Who You Are campaign, celebrating the individuality of women. Anchored in self-confidence, she celebrates the brand’s empowering philosophy, with the right makeup, tools and knowledge, a woman can look like herself, only prettier and more confident.
What is your motto?
My mantra is: ‘Be who you are.’ My goal when I started my company was to empower women with the right makeup and knowledge to look and feel their best, most confident self. Rather than trying to change or distort a woman’s features, I use makeup to enhance the features that make her unique. While makeup shouldn’t be considered a one-step prescription for self-confidence, I believe that with the right tools and knowledge, makeup can help all women achieve that little ‘boost’ for looking and feeling our best. And more than makeup, beauty is really something that comes from within, it’s about having self-confidence. My mission is to empower women to feel good about themselves.
How do you define beauty?
Beauty is something that comes from within, it’s about having self-confidence and embracing who you are. I really believe that a woman is most beautiful when she looks like herself. Beauty comes in many faces, colours, and shapes. I don’t think that there is one single definition of beauty, so our line is designed to give women of all ages and ethnicities options that work for her individual look.
Who are your beauty icons?
My mother was a huge role model. She was the most beautiful woman I knew. I grew up watching my mother carefully apply her makeup in the mornings and before parties. My early memories of watching my mother apply her white eye shadow and false eyelashes in her blue gilded bathroom are still with me. I always hoped that I could look half as glamorous and fresh-looking as she was. She taught me that confidence is the compelling aspect of real beauty.
When do you feel most beautiful?
I look and feel my best when I’m mindful about how I’m treating body. To me, that means eating healthy, drinking plenty of water and exercising on a regular basis.
What is your morning and night skincare routine?
In the morning, I wash my face with Soothing Cleansing Oil and sometimes I mix Buffing Grains with Extra Balm Rinse if I want to exfoliate. I moisturise with Extra Repair Moisturising Balm and will sometimes layer the Extra Repair Serum on top, especially during the winter months when my skin tends to be dry. I recommend layering moisturisers to plump the skin and create the perfect canvas for makeup application. Also, eye cream is a must, every day, all year round. I alternate between Extra Eye Repair Cream and Hydrating Eye Cream. At night, I repeat my morning routine and add Hydrating Intense Night Cream.
‘It all started with a simple idea, natural looking makeup and a lipstick that looked like lips.’
Do you wear a lot of makeup?
I like to apply a few of my staple products every morning, before work (usually in the car), but I’m not afraid of going bare-faced, especially on the weekend. I keep my beauty routine really simple – it takes less than 5 minutes. Most of the time I will use my customised face touch up palette which has empty pans that I filled with my shades of corrector, concealer, foundation stick, pot rouge and lip balm. For an evening look, it’s all about black Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner and layering different mascara formulas, it’s a quick and easy way to get the look of false lashes.
How do you maintain your passion and enthusiasm for the industry?
I am fortunate to be passionate about what I do. Makeup, colour, and everything visual have always been what makes me happy. Thanks to my parents, who understood the importance of pursuing my passion, I made makeup my major in college, a first at my school. I knew that I would eventually turn my fascination with makeup, and how it can transform women inside and out, into a career.
This also fuels my other passion, helping women. My goal when I started my company was to empower women with the right makeup and knowledge to look and feel their best, most confident self. My mission has always been to empower women to feel good about themselves, that’s what energises me and keeps me going every day. And that’s also why I’m focused on giving women the right tools, products and knowledge to become their own makeup artist.
As a working makeup artist, who was the first celebrity you worked with?
Glenn Close and the rest of the cast from the movie, The Big Chill, for their press tour.
How has the beauty industry evolved since you started out?
Today, women want the same thing – simple and effective products that will help them look and feel their very best. They crave the knowledge of how to use them. Women have become so much more knowledgeable about products and application techniques. When they go to a makeup counter, they have a higher degree of confidence about what they want, which is great. The way women feel about ageing is also beginning to change. Ageing is starting to be seen as process through which a woman can gain more vitality, strength, wisdom, and a new sense of her beauty. As a result, the beauty industry has become more about options and less about rules and young girls and women have more role models today. We’ve definitely moved away from the idea that there’s only one definition of beauty. We’re starting to realise that we should all strive for is a very personal definition of our own beauty.
What is your favourite beauty look?
I’ve always preferred a natural or nude makeup look, it’s flattering and timeless. It compliments everyone and is pretty much mistake-proof. Natural or nude makeup means choosing the most flattering shades and textures for your face. However, natural makeup doesn’t mean completely bare-faced. The secret is to choose shades that are similar in tone to your complexion, for example, eye shadows that mimic the natural colouring of your eyelids and lipsticks that look like your lips. If a nude shade looks ashy, it’s too light for you. If it looks muddy, the shade is too dark.
But I’m also an artist and I love colour and I find ways to integrate bolder and brighter trends into my collections, all while making them more wearable for everyday. Sometimes I create beauty looks that are more runway than everyday for Fashion Week, Editorial shoots, etc, but I love showing women how they can translate these looks to fit their personal style, as well as enhance their features.
What’s your most important makeup tool?
While brushes are a fool proof way to apply makeup, never underestimate the power of your hands. The warmth of your hands can make blending easier, and the tips of your fingers can soften a shadow in a nanosecond. For my own everyday application, I like to use my hands/fingers to apply makeup because I don’t carry a lot of tools with me. If I had to choose my favourite brush, I’d say a Face Blender Brush because it’s ideal for travelling. It can be used to apply multiple products, including bronzer, blush, or a Shimmer Brick.
Has your beauty philosophy changed over the years?
Since the beginning, I’ve used makeup to enhance natural features and I’ve always used flattering, natural-looking products and shades. To this day, my philosophy hasn’t changed but it’s evolved and our products have definitely expanded to cater to the needs of modern day women around the globe. While today, it’s still about easy makeup that enhances and compliments a woman’s unique and natural features, that’ll always be my mantra, it’s also about being stylish without falling victim to trends. As far as foundation, concealer and powder are concerned, I still believe in skin tone correct shades. They look the most natural, the most perfect on a woman’s skin. That will never change, either.
Do you follow catwalk makeup trends?
I don’t believe in following every trend. What might work for one person, might not suit the next. It’s really about what makes a women feel her prettiest. For some women, that means natural, subtle colours, and for others, it means a more vibrant look. When it comes down to it, makeup is about options.
What has been your most memorable experience with Fashion Week?
One of my favourite moments working backstage at Fashion Week was with Michael Kors. Michael had Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and many others in his show before they were supermodels. The beauty look was always bronzed, healthy, tanned-looking faces, makeup I loved.
If you could define the Bobbi Brown women, who would she be?
The Bobbi Brown woman is someone who is confident and comfortable in her skin. She’s classic but edgy, cool but sophisticated, worldly but grounded. She is true to herself.
Bobbi’s beauty tips
What is the best way to create radiant, fresh and beautiful skin?
Before applying makeup, always begin by applying a hydrating face cream, moisture is the key to healthy looking and feeling skin. It replenishes the skin with a boost of hydration and helps even out and soften the skin, ensuring a flawless makeup application.
How do you pick the perfect foundation shade?
In natural light, swatch the foundation from your cheek to your jaw line, and gently blend it into your skin. Now do the same with another foundation that’s one shade lighter and another that’s one shade darker. The shade that’s imperceptible should be your pick, but double-check it against your forehead, since some women tend to be darker there. If it works in both areas, you’ve picked a winner.
Can you use the same foundation year-round?
I recommend having two foundations on hand, one for the winter months, when your skin is naturally paler, and one for the summer months, when your skin is slightly darker. For those in-between months, blend the two to develop your own custom shade.
Can you share tips on the best makeup for photos?
It’s important to adjust your makeup depending on the light. If you’re outdoors in natural light, then keep your makeup soft and natural. On the other hand, fluorescent and incandescent indoor lighting washes out the colour of your skin and reduces the definition of your features so you can apply more makeup than you normally use.
