“The inspiration is an ossuary, the crypts of the cardinals, of the monks in the 15th century, and the precious decorations. This idea is that everything that is linked to the afterlife is accompanied by something of maximum beauty,” said Alessandro Michele in a statement after the show at the Promenade Des Alyscamps in Arles, France.
It might sound ominous at first but the collection, told through 114 looks featuring burst of colours, clashes of print, intricate details like embroidered stars, rich fabrics like velvet capes, shell style necklace with a woman dressed in a traditional Japanese dress and transparent Ophidia bags, felt like a celebration of the past centuries. Michele transported the audience through time starting in 15th Century and ending up somewhere in the 80’s. He paid tribute to the dramatic setting by including past names of the city on some of pieces, while other carried sentences from artists such as Dante Alighieri who was inspired by Alyscamps.
“Alyscamps is a Roman cemetery, but it’s also not a cemetery, it was a promenade, it became a walk in the 1700s; it is hybridized, it does not look like a cemetery because it is and it isn’t. I like things that seem like something but are not,” the designer added.
The gothic grunge could be felt in a boxy leather jacket styled with high-waist jeans and a pop of pink sock worn with pointed-toe pumps, as well as fringed dresses, sequins, chains and chokers. Logo’s also dominated with the Italian house paying tribute to Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles by printing the hotel’s name on sweatshirts.
Michele continues to deliver a strong brand DNA but this time, even with styling that your eyes take a while to adjust to, it felt the most wearable with a variety of day-to-night statement pieces that deliver a touch of modern gothic glamour to your wardrobe.