Tory Burch is a name associated with luxe travel and chic working attire, however, for her latest collection shown in New York yesterday, the designer chose to revisit her roots. A few days before the show, she had posted a photo to Instagram of her childhood home in Philadelphia calling it her inspiration. Her muse was also close to home; she chose Tracy Lord, a sharp-witted and glamorous socialite, who is a character from the 1940 film ‘The Philadelphia Story’ played by Katharine Hepburn. In a thoughtful gesture, bound volumes of love poetry were left on the guests’ seats, a nod to the show’s Valentine’s Day unveiling.
Burch used elements of Tracy’s iconic costuming throughout the show. Hepburn’s character wore a hostess dress densely stitched with gold in the film, and so to start, Burch moved away from the familiar double-T logo and instead there was a scrolling gold TB embroidered onto an elegant white coat and skirt. Burch’s signature style of using decorative touches lent itself well to the theme and she was able to give her woman some fresh choices while remaining true to the underlying DNA of the label.
In fact, most of the collection was truly wearable. A delicate painterly dancer print appeared on pussy bow blouses and tea dresses, made to look polished with tan accessories and trousers. Highlights of cobalt blue on a fairisle zip front top and a jacket with a plaid interior looked fresh and modern. For the heavier looks, more true to the autumn-winter season, Burch explored the ‘outdoor glamour’ of her muse. There were fairisle knits, corduroy trousers and plaid skirts, with fur jackets adding some glamour and luxe. For the jewellery, Burch used a reference close to her heart; the pendant necklaces worn by the models were inspired by the cigarette lighter of her father.
There was a sense of nostalgia to the designs and a lot of the looks had a collegiate uniform-like quality to them. However, there was an injection of youth as Taylor Hill, a rising star with an All American look walked the runway in a chintz floral dress and suede boots. Overall, the collection is sure to appeal to those who have long been customers of the brand and may potentially attract some of their daughters too.
