British brand Mulberry’s Creative Director on his vision for the future, and what he loves most about designing for the iconic English label.
Coca made his debut for Mulberry in February 2016 with his AW16 collection to much positivity, and what a difference a year made. At the start of March 2015, the luxury British brand was without a CEO, had yet to appoint a creative director, and the most recent headlines were regarding its ill-fated price increase under former CEO Bruno Guillon, and its absence from the London Fashion Week schedule. Fast forward to 2017 and the house has the buzz about it that it did in the early 2010s, now that the Coca effect has started to take hold.
Over the years, Mulberry has become synonymous with British cool girls, from Alexa Chung, who collaborated with the brand on the famous ‘Alexa’ bag, to Kate Moss. With plenty of iconic styles, the Bayswater was one of the It-bags of the early 2000s, the label knows exactly how to deliver classic British heritage with a dose of fashion. And since Creative Director and Céline alumni Johnny Coca has taken over the helm, he is quietly but surely reinvigorating the house with a bold new flavour.
The Seville-born, Paris-London native, is instantly recognisable by his Elvis-style quiff, hoop earrings and extensive collection of kilts. If he is not wearing this Gaelic uniform, it’s a pinstripe suit and chunky white trainers. Given his exuberant dress sense, he could be seen as an unlikely character to helm one of Britain’s most traditional labels. However, Coca’s outlook and understanding of the industry could only come from someone who has been waiting in the wings for years. His pedigree can be proved through an education in art, architecture, and design at the École National des Beaux-Arts and École Boulle in Paris, before successful stints at Celine, which saw him create the most financially successful bags for years, as well as Bally and Louis Vuitton.
Johnny Coca has a vision to make Mulberry feel British again, whilst designing relevant, modern products, and here he talks to us about his Spring Summer 2017 collection, which was inspired by traditional school uniform stripes and Land Girl outfits spun into feminine dresses with bold ruffles. Together with this, he shares how the heritage of the brand is paramount, which is particularly clear in his choice to revive the Mulberry brand logo, through digging deep into the archives and reinstating an original font the brand used in the Seventies.
What is the inspiration behind your Spring Summer 2017 collection?
Everything comes from the idea of the school uniform with the plaza stripe, and what I like about the British structure. Uniforms are something very British, and when I first started working in London, I was struck by the beautifully dressed children, and not so well dressed students on their way to class. I also loved the way the older children kind of messed with the rules and played with the outfits to make them edgier, twisting something very traditional to make it look modern. I went to different suppliers in the UK to find the classic stripe blazer in strong colours for this first part of the show, and for the second part of the show I worked with paisley print. This was juxtaposed on very classic British colours of navy and white, with large oversized ruffles, and embroidered for an added sense of luxury. I also played with oversized shirts, a bit like different students from different schools swapping shirts at the end of the day, to mix them up for a cool look.
Did you have any specific muse in mind when designing the collection?
I don’t know if it is because I am Spanish, but I like the flamenco style, and big ruffles. I designed for a girl in Spain who loves this feminine volume, and these dresses are designed to give her comfort and freedom. The idea is to have something very British, but bring something personal from my culture.
Can you tell us about how you worked with the accessories for this collection?
For the new season I like the diversity of the shape, and I like to play with the construction and proportion, making it quite cool and unisex. The key style, the box bag is inspired by a child’s lunch box, the shape is modern and easy, and will bring something quite special to an outfit.
What do you feel women are looking for these days in fashion?
I think it is more a question of desire and uniqueness. The consumer is looking for special and unique pieces, that are also functional and easy to wear. They need to be classic to be relevant, as something that is too much is not easy to wear, and I like it when people can use a product for a long time.
When are you at your best when you are designing?
I think it is nice when you are outside seeing the world. I am designing for women, not for myself, so I like to sit on a terrace and see different girls walk by. By watching this I can appreciate that they are all different, helping me to project something that will work for different people.
Can you describe to us your typical day?
I wake up and have my lemon juice, take a walk in the park, and then start to organise my meetings. I prefer not to follow a strict regime, and be relaxed, living in the moment. I think it is important to have fun and pleasure, following your instinct and listening to people, to be able to create something special, different, and unexpected.
As we meet here at Spring Summer fashion week, have you been following the other shows, and did any catch your attention in particular?
I think what is important to me, is when people bring a strong sense of attitude, and I love to see this, together with the novelties that each brand creates. This season I have enjoyed seeing what is happening at Dior, due to the current changes in creative leadership, and I particularly appreciated the white and embroidery in the collection, and how it kept the sense of something very feminine and sophisticated.
We are now seeing a lot of fashion shows combining men’s and womenswear, what are your thoughts of this new message?
I understand that for the press it certainly is a positive, as they are travelling a huge amount and perhaps this gives them more time. It also allows more consistency and a stronger message through the men and women combined, making them feel like a couple, therefore helping you to understand the connection when they are in the same show.
Do you follow Loewe, especially due to your shared Spanish heritage?
Yes, firstly because I am Spanish, and also because I really appreciate what Jonathan Anderson is doing for the brand, bringing together something quite modern and new, artistic, and crafty. Sometimes it may not be so easy to wear, but they have all the product to provoke interest, and bring something unique and unexpected in terms of communication and product. Another brand I appreciate is Bottega Veneta for their sophisticated, conservative approach, and care for heritage. I love how they work with the leather goods, and the crafts they have.
What are your views on the fashion world in the Middle East?
I am really pleased, because the women in the Middle East have really changed their mentality and the way they approach fashion, becoming more open. They understand what is modern and will take a lot of risks compared to other countries. They are very strong, sophisticated, and glamorous, and what I design I can imagine fitting well in the region.
What is your personal motto?
Make your days playful and fun.
How would you best sum up Mulberry?
Honest and British.
By Lara Mansour Sawaya
