Anthony Vaccarello rides the ‘80s wave in the middle of a construction site for his second season at Saint Laurent, last night in Paris. For the very first time, Vaccarello mixed men’s and women’s looks together on same runway, both sexes were sent out in ultra-cool wearable ready-to-wear ensembles.
The creative designer mentioned in the show’s notes that he took inspiration from the original founder, stating “I love Monsieur Saint Laurent’s subversive approach to clothes, his dark romanticism with a hint of perversity. I wanted this collection to be like a re-reading, a radical fantasy of this heritage.”
Vaccarello stayed true to his aesthetics by displaying daring slit gowns, and he showed scrunched leather boots with matching leather outfits. The milk-chocolate coloured leather was a recurring theme throughout, also featured shearling jackets, mini-dresses and shirt-dresses. The show started with patent leather dresses paired with pants, then followed sultury one-shouldered dresses with ruffled details; also there were many wearable pieces, such as denim, classic trousers and cozy knits. Other key shapes for the range, were cropped shearlings with exaggerated shoulder details and bomber jackets. Vaccarello with this collection featured loads of ultra-feminine looks perfect to take from day to night.
The eveningwear on the other hand, was what mostly looked similar to what Mr. Saint Laurent himself would have designed back in the ’80s. The finale couture looks aimed for the red carpet, introducing high-shine knee boots fully covered with rhinestones and matching lustrous mini-dresses and silver cable-knit sweaters.
Yes, there was a lot of new fashion just enough for Vaccarello to stay true to himself and most importantly to the brand’s DNA.