Pierpaolo Piccioli’s reign at Valentino continues with his SS19 collection. The bold and dramatic collection brought modesty and elegance to the catwalk with voluminous sleeves, dramatic architectural cuts, a decadent clash of textures and statement prints.
In a welcoming presentation of modesty Pierpaolo brought what perhaps what we had been craving from Paris Fashion Week this season. Timeless, understated elegance that is wearable, yet aspirational at the same time.
The bright and airy show space at Hôtel National des Invalides was the perfect setting for this refreshing show – while classic opera music blared out over the speakers juxtaposing with the modern runway design. The show got off to a somewhat sombre start with a flurry of dramatic black gowns but this soon developed into monochrome, then reds, then orange, then pinks then finally rainbow colours all in luxe fabrics like pleated leather, lace, organza chiffon and embellished cotton.
The cuts and shapes were exquisite. Large billowing sleeves, deep V necks, off-the-shoulder cuts, wide hemlines on dresses that were either floor length or cut well above the knee and in many cases finished with feathers or fur for a fun, feminine touch. Necklines also came in the form of high-necked Edwardian style ruffles on evening gowns. One perhaps surprising addition to the collection was Piccoli’s adoption of the Logomania trend. Monochrome sweaters and jackets were presented with a large V for Valentino across the front, as well as belts featuring a gold V buckle.
There was plenty of day wear too. Pleated sundresses and perfectly tailored shirts with skinny cigarette trousers, were paired with casual sandals and oversized straw hats. On the subject of accessories, Piccoli brought back the oversized hoop earring as well as the leather shopper and coloured leather bags.
This collection was positively refreshing and we’re already thinking about which pieces we will be purchasing next summer!